Hot Dish Review

We tried to go to Sound Table. Really, we did. But our friend CL was out of sorts and swore I said Top Flr. So, of course, that is where we ended up.

It was late-ish and I was hungry-ish. B and I made our entrance, said our hellos, and quickly ordered some wine. Quick, however, wasn’t the manner of delivery. It wasn’t N’s fault, all of the glasses were dirty. My lack of patience made the wait seem like forever but it was probably only ten minutes.

Once we each had a glass of Bordeaux, we were ready to order food. The roasted chicken and kimchee plate at Taste of Atlanta had me craving the actual dish. B decided on the pappardelle, the current version with mushrooms. Both of us love Brussels sprouts so we had the Brussels au gratin and the irresistible mac ‘n’ cheese on the side.

As is often the case, seated at the bar, meals at Top Flr become a communal experience. Folks show up, pull up a chair and by the end of the evening you’ve sampled food from friends and strangers alike.

PLB was there with his awesome wife J. JM was running the show. O popped in and joined us, ordering the mouthwatering duck confit pizza. Our entrees and smoldering sides came. My chicken was a tiny little thing, more like a Cornish game hen, however, the portion was rather large. Its crispy brown skin covered the succulent dark meat (did I have three leg quarters?) atop a soy reduction, paired with perfectly spicy kimchee made with Brussels sprouts.

The other preparation of Brussels sprouts, gratin with bacon, cream and fennel was one of the most amazing dishes I’ve had in recent memory. O took a bite and said “I got a big chunk of pork and it was goooooood!” I commented to Dinner Party sommelier JD who was working the bar that I could eat a bowl of it for breakfast and he concurred.

B’s pappardelle was the very definition of comfort food, rich and earthy with chanterelle, oyster, and lobster mushrooms in a creamy truffle jus. The simplicity of the pappardelle belies the hours of labor it takes to make it in-house. It is easy for diners to take the flawless pasta for granted.

An acquaintance of O’s was seated an few stools down from me and we got to chatting about our mutual love of food. Later he offered me a taste of his roasted squash.

My least favorite dish of the evening was the mac ‘n’ cheese. It was a little drier than usual. O shared his duck confit pizza which was as decadent and delicious as ever.

Sound Table, sorry we stood you up. We’ll be back soon, I promise!

674 Myrtle Street 404-685-3110

Dinner Party Atlanta did it again, hosting a dinner for nearly 40 guests at the Atlanta Ballet’s new space on Marietta Boulevard. BB and I arrived just as DC was lighting candles, placing them strategically along the mirrored wall of a rehearsal studio.

Dramatic lighting set the stage for an eventful evening, but there was plenty of drama on our way to the venue. BB and his driver, Warren, picked me up after a frenzied day at work. After a few moments enroute I realized the ribbon ties on my dress were loose. Numerous attempts to tighten it produced the opposite result, finally proving futile as the ribbon was broken. I re-laced it in the dark and secured it at the shoulder by turning my head nearly backwards, Linda Blair style. Disaster averted!

I breathed a sigh of relief, rummaging through my bag for my powder compact. It wasn’t there. Sonofabitch. Pulling into the venue’s parking lot, Warren dropped us off and sprang into action, memorizing the brand and color of powder I needed, then delivering it tout de suite.

Greeted with a deceptively light rum cocktail, KC showed us the space. One long table ran the length of the dark room, set with a black tablecloth, white napkins, and lots of glasses sparkling in the candlelight. Across the hall a group of little girls danced their hearts out.

In a perfectly choreographed dance of food and wine, the meal began with a shot of bright yellow pepper soup. Suspended by a spear of asparagus above the liquid was a crispy crab beignet. A glass of Schloss Gobelsburg Brut Reserve from Austria started the wine service, expertly chosen by sommelier John Dirga.

The second course was a tuna-less Nicoise salad constructed of haricots verts, fingerling potatoes confit, organic lettuces, and a tiny hard boiled quail egg, the salad paired nicely with a crisp white from France.

Third, we were served a dish of chilled pickled Georgia shrimp topped with ribbons of cucumber and daikon radish. There was a drizzle of egglant-miso puree beneath the shrimp and a couple of cubes of watermelon, making it seem more like a Summer dish. As a cucumber hater I quickly removed the offensive bits and proceed to enjoy the huge shrimp and the garlic croustini that was served alongside. Some folks do not care for sweet wines, but I loved the German spatlese riesling paired with this course. Blame it on my heritage!

Chef Shane Devereux doesn’t produce generous servings, but rather concise compositions, each component playing its roll providing texture, color, flavor. The main course on October 29th was a perfect example. Venison loin was first marinated in black mission fig puree and sherry vinegar, then cooked to a deep scarlet rare. The result was exceedingly tender meat, sliced into thin medallions and placed on a brightly hued carrot puree, accented with crispy chanterelle mushrooms (OK, I thought it was onions but the menu said mushrooms) and the odd addition of crunchy granola. A dish fit for Fall and the only course that merited a red wine, a dry blend from France.

Dessert was a rustic seckle pear tart accompanied by a dollop of salted creme, a fantastic contrast. A dessert white from Portugal finished the show.

Not only did we enjoy an amazing meal prepared by chef Shane Devereux, we were all part of the culinary rat pack’s pilot for a new reality series on NBC. Filming was so discrete that diners may have been unaware that it was taking place.

Afterwards, we all headed to The Sound Table where Dam Funk tore it up! I danced off the entire meal and then some.

Some complain that it’s difficult to find good food late at night in Atlanta. True, but it’s getting easier. Restaurants like Top Flr cater to those of us who sometimes eat dinner at midnight.

But after a night of drinking I often find I’m in the mood for something less refined than Top Flr, but more refined than Krystals. That’s where The Highlander comes in. Behind its low-brow rock ‘n’ roll atmosphere lurks a talented kitchen staff, making more than competent sandwiches, entrees, and bar food.

Me, B, and LC ended up there not long ago. Inside the cavernous yet smokey space, we chose a corner table. A few regular looking dudes were stationed at the bar, although it is more common to see tattoos and leather at this place. I would have been right at home back in the day.

It was late and a school night too, so we got on with the task of mindless late night eating. Calories do not count after midnight, right?I think B ordered a Reuben. LC got a Cuban with a side of mac ‘n’ cheese, and I tried the classic BLT with fries.

Once the food arrived there was utter silence. B and LC were clearly winding down as I sipped my last Miller Lite of the night. My BLT was devine, built upon two thick slices of toasted sourdough. Lots of thick, chewy applewood smoked bacon, ripe tomatoes, crisp lettuce, and pesto mayo. Seriously, the quality of each ingredient was stellar. The Highlander has fabulous fries, cut thin and perfectly crispy. Although not the best in town, LC’s mac ‘n’ cheese was pretty good.

This was certainly not my first visit to The Highlander. AD and I used to go there often to play Nudie Mega-Touch. I had an awesome gyro on one of those visits. And my friends SP and AA eat there frequently, as does SS, due to the fact that they still allow smoking (although last I heard AA quit). I barely recall some sliders that were just OK….not all of the food is awesome all of the time.

With an extensive menu ranging from Caesar salad to beef stroganoff and everything in between, they do a pretty damn good job.

931 Monroe Drive 404-872-0060

A RE-RUN ON THE EVE OF THE PIEDMONT PARK DINNER PARTY! Of course I’m attending….how could I not?

Exclusive, invitation only dinner parties held in secret locations, announced at the last minute, with a secret menu revealed once guests are seated. Sounds tantalizing, no?

The speakeasy of supper clubs, Dinner Party Atlanta is a hot ticket among foodies. The brainchild of Darren Carr and Patrick La Bouff of Top Flr, it’s a brilliant concept combining the element of surprise with culinary genius. Be prepared for anything as chef Shane Devereux, also of Top Flr, presents five courses, each with stunning precision and evolved flavors.

B and I had the dinner and the party last night! Held in the space on Edgewood that will soon house Darren’s and Jeff Myers’ new restaurant, Darren was reluctant to spill the beans about this project, although word is it is scheduled to open in March.

Upon arrival, Darren was on hand to greet guests and direct them upstairs where the future restaurant’s kitchen and dining room are located. Red brick walls were lined with gorgeous black and white photography by Craig Bromley. A long communal table set for twenty diners promised an evening of lively conversation and making new friends, although it was cool to see an old friend, OB, who happened to be in attendance as well. A sexy crowd, sexy lighting, and sexy staff, set the stage for some sexy food!

Each of us sipped a special rum cocktail shaken up by Paul, called The Hesitation, as we mingled. Once seated, the real excitement was underway. Sommelier Valerie Masten poured a semi-sweet riesling that paired perfectly with our first course of foie gras torchon with toasted brioche, apple miso butter and a tiny clump of watercress.

Ya know, I prefer my foie gras seared. The process of making foie gras torchon is a rigorous one which Devereux described in detail….TMI dude! Deveining goose liver is not an enviable task, but the result was a smooth and fatty disc. The sweet accompaniment and bread to cut the richness made for a classic starter.

Seated next to JR, a man with a palate that can detect a single molecule of an ingredient, made for an engaging discussion of each course, the second of which was a chilled leek and marcona almond soup, pureed with cream and garnished with a salad of lobster, chopped black grapes, almonds and a drizzle of pumpkin seed oil. It rocked, but B and I didn’t love the white Italian wine served with it.

Squab is a fancy word for pigeon. Not the NYC “flying rat” variety but a domesticated version whose meat is reminiscent of duck. This was the protein in our third course, the breast pan seared medium rare and a leg confit served atop fingerling potatoes and diced pork belly which added a touch of smokiness to the dish….delish. Valerie chose a Spanish red, Petalos 2007, which was my favorite wine of the evening.

Among chef Devereux’s technically difficult preparations was the sous vide saddle of rabbit, our fourth course. It’s like they read our minds (or my blog)….B and I love bunnies! But I had never tried it cooked sous vide, a method of slow cooking any meat in a vacuum sealed bag under water at a constant low temperature. Turnip puree with a touch of Greek yogurt provided a hint of bitterness against the surprise addition of golden raisins. Braised artichoke gave the dish an extra punch, a perfect study in contrast of texture and flavor. A dry Italian red worked well with it.

Dessert was far better than its description. A thin disc of almond cake was topped with pear mousse, then a soft mascarpone cheesecake spiced with cinnamon and allspice. The best fucking thing was the dried fig and pear compote alongside it. I ate mine and half of B’s too. Valerie chose an awesome auslese riesling to sip with the sweets.

It was a stellar experience and worth every dollar. Naturally, we headed to Top Flr for one last drink. My favorite anglianico was no longer offered by the glass so I chose Easton zin, an old standby. I don’t remember much after that, but my hair smelled of cigarettes this morning.

With a wait list of 700, they will be doing a large scale event on May 1st in Piedmont Park to seat 200 guests.

Dinner Party Atlanta is a kickass experience. I wouldn’t expect anything less from the guys at Top Flr!

HERE’S A RE-RUN WHILE I’M IN RIO!
Top Flr is one of my favorite restaurants in Atlanta for many reasons…food, ambiance, price, and service….they shine on all points! Those guys should give lessons on how to run a restaurant. Guests are usually greeted by Darren, one of the owners. Doesn’t hurt that he is English (and hot). The dining room upstairs (top floor) is cozy and they expanded the downstairs space last summer, but I still I prefer to sit at the original bar, although it isn’t quite the same since Adam’s departure. He was one of the original partners and selected the often obscure and wonderful wines on their list. He turned me on to anglianico, a spicy red that I’ve ordered ever since I tasted it.

Diners (and drinkers) are greeted by the smoky aromas of the kitchen….reminds me of a campfire so I especially enjoy eating there in the colder months.

The menu has evolved but several standards remain like the white bean hummus, duck confit pizza, lamb (now pork) skewers, and hangar steak. I can still remember the delicately flavored mussels from my first visit with d. Proteins are mostly a la carte, to be paired with one or two of their terrific sides. Salads are huge and fresh, the pastas are decadent comfort food. The original mac ‘n’ cheese left much to be desired but they have since improved it, and improved it again. It is now one of the best in town, with a creamy bechamel cheese sauce, baked with crispy breadcrumbs on top.

They used to do a duck confit pappardelle, reminiscent of the short rib version at the now-defunct Globe. Duck confit can still be found on a pizza, the current pie topped with pesto, applewood bacon, and grilled portobellos, and some sort of amazing cheese….smoked mozzarella perhaps? An artisan cheese plate is the perfect snack if you are sampling wines at the bar.

Many visits with AG completed my exploration of the Top Flr menu. The boring-sounding-but-surprisingly-not white bean hummus remains one of their most popular appetizers. I’ve had a fabulous scallop dish, a wonderful curry redolent of lemongrass and coconut milk, even the simple chicken delivers a mouthful of juicy, smoky flavor. Having tried practically every dish from appetizers to entrees, I once even ventured to order the tuna tartar flatbread with avocado. I don’t like tuna. I was amazing.

My first dessert there was one of the best things that ever crossed my lips. It was a cold Winter’s evening and me and LC had just stopped in for a nightcap, but my sweet tooth ached for something sinful….the caramelized pear tart with gorgonzola ice cream. Orgasmic.

Friday I introduced Top Flr to my new main squeeze ST. He ordered the salmon (which I admit I did not even try) with the stellar mac ‘n’ cheese (which I scarfed) and I finally had the crispy duck breast. The thick layer of fat left the crisped skin unedible….I wish they had rendered the fat, although the temp and flavor of the meat was perfect. I paired my entree with the sweet potato succhatash with pancetta, roasted peppers, jalapenos, and cream corn. It sounds a bit disjointed and would probably fare better with one less ingredient.

Two glasses of wine later, I craved something even sweeter than ST.
(Remember when Top Flr first opened and they did unusual chocolate truffles with spices and herbs?) Dried mission fig pudding cake (synonymous with bread pudding?) with berry compote….bring it on mama! Kickass.

I could regale you with more tales of Cote du Rhone and the crazy tobacco ice cream they once served, but suffice it to say, I’ve developed a relationship with this place. Is it love? Perhaps. And that just doesn’t happen every day.

674 Myrtle Street, just off Ponce 404-685-3110

I’ve been waiting a long time to post this. If you order a martini, most often you receive a martini glass full to the brim. WRONG! Worse yet, some pussies order “vodka martinis”. OK, so there is no such thing. That would be a vodka drink served in a martini glass.

By definition, a martini is gin with vermouth. I order mine with Bombay Sapphire, dry, straight up, with 3 olives. “Dry” means the vermouth is shaken with the ice, then thrown out. The essence of the vermouth remains to be shaken with the gin. If you order a vodka martini just call it what it is. A cosmopolitan perhaps?

When the guys from Top Flr and Dinner Party Atlanta suggested meeting at The Highland Tap, I was thrilled. Back in the day, me and my roommate LR (now LL) used to spend entire afternoons in the back corner booth, sipping martinis and chain smoking.

So, during the “blizzard” last Friday, I enjoyed the singular treat of a perfectly made martini.

The meeting was about the link between Dinner Party Atlanta (Darren Carr & Patrick LaBouff), Top Flr (Darren Carr & Jeff Myers), and the third venture, the secret yet-to-be-disclosed restaurant/music driven bar on Edgewood (Darren Carr, Jeff Myers, & Karl Injex) creating a culinary trifecta. Chef Shane Devereux is the glue between all three.

Back to martinis….the only place in Atlanta that serves a martini correctly is The Highland Tap. A martini is meant to be sipped slowly. To keep it cold, a small amount of the shaken drink is poured into a martini glass. The remainder is poured into a sidecar…..a tiny carafe that is kept cold in ice water on the side. This is the proper method of serving a martini. Any other method is incorrect, and unfortunately, standard.

If you can’t do it right, don’t do it! Here’s a Knuckle Sandwich for all of the bars and restaurants that force their bartenders to serve half-ass martinis….shame on you.

Exclusive, invitation only dinner parties held in off-the-wall locations like artist’s lofts, fashionable penthouses, and on farms (local and sustainable are chic!), all announced at the last minute to attendees that have prepaid for a five course dinner with wine pairings.

Sounds exciting, no? A few groups are doing this hot concept including The FourCoursemen in Athens with a cult culinary following among foodies. Dinner Party is the latest bloom on this flower, the brainchild of Darren Carr and Patrick La Bouff of Top Flr. Chef Shane Devereux creates the menu for these secret suppers.

Just like the location, the menu is always a surprise, revealed at the last minute as diners arrive. I finally checked out their website, then ran into Patrick the very next day at Bakeshop. There were hints of some pretty exhilarating meals ahead.

Sample menus have included ponzu marinated cobia, and chestnut and foie gras stuffed poissin with mushroom ragu and apple. Hopefully my next report will be first hand. Sounds orgasmic. But what do I know? I had chocolate chip cookies (and dough) for dinner!