Hot Dish Review

On a recent Friday I chatted with Hector Santiago at his sandwich shop, Super Pan Latino before devouring a decadent pork bun. Less than a week later I found myself at Pura Vida with LC for a late dinner. Santiago was in the kitchen, expediting orders.

Pura Vida is one of my longtime favorites. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, the food is flavorful and interesting, and their sangria is consistently the best in Atlanta. It is the perfect place for a birthday party or an intimate date.

Santiago can go for long periods with no menu changes, then Bam! Suddenly, all your regular dishes are gone, replaced with seemingly experimental plates with foams and “caviar”. This used to be really disappointing when I would go expecting the duck maduros and it would be gone.

These days I’ve come to expect the changes, even welcome them. This was LC’s first visit, my 50th, so I was at a distinct advantage. We started with two glasses of sangria, one red and one white, each full of rum-soaked fruit.

Some old familiar dishes remained like the hanger steak pinchos, tender smoky grilled skewers of beef covered with an herbaciously green chimichurri. Always a good choice.

I chose a new veggie dish called “fall over chayote” to pair with the steak. It reminded me of Hugh Acheson’s “super-food” at Empire State South, a crazy hodge-podge of individual components that, when put together, are still a crazy hodge-podge. The description should have clued me in….chayote squash, enoki, smoked tofu, calabaza puree, wok seared jalapenos, pepita oil and umeboshi sauce. That last ingredient explains the saltiness we encountered in some bites. Umeboshi is made from pickled Japanese plums….an odd addition on a Latin menu.

Moving on, we tried the mofongo con “carne frita”, pork carnitas served over mashed green bananas with pork cracklings. I’ve ordered this dish several times, however, this time Hector added a pork jus espuma. That is the foamy stuff in the photo. I don’t know if it added anything to the dish, but remembering too late that it was usually somewhat bland, I asked for his fiery hot habanero sauce, a clear liquid in a squeeze bottle that makes everything better.

Hector used to do a great dish with goat. There is a new incarnation of it on this menu, slow cooked with plantain dumplings, curry sauteed cabbage and calaloo greens. I would have ordered it instead of the pork had I not had goat the night before…..how often can one say that!

My love of avocados prompted me to try the aguacate criollo, described as avocado, lime “caviar”, piquillo agridulce jelly, chorizo chips, cilantro and avocado oil. Chunks of avocado were topped with bits of lime pulp (the “caviar”), and crispy slivers of chorizo. Little cubes of sweet and sour “agridulce” jelly added another odd component to an already unusual looking plate. The end result was like deconstructed guacamole and it’s pretty hard to complain about that.

We ordered another small plate, the tamales nejos, but sadly I didn’t remember it until I looked at the photos the next day. Like mole, I continue to order tamales, believing that someday I will discover what other’s love so much about these dishes. Santiago’s tamales had a good texture, with robust flavor from the fresh masa and charred scallions which paired nicely with the black beans alongside. If you like tamales, you will probably enjoy these. If you are like me, they won’t knock your socks off.

More sangria and, of course, dessert. Two, actually….a sinful chocolate and ancho chili flan brulee’ that lacked much chili kick and a baby banana ice cream sandwich made with chipotle chocolate chip cookies that LC really liked. I vaguely remember eating it despite my mild dislike for banana. My memory is a bit foggy on the specifics….I’m gonna have to blame that on the sangria!

656 N. Highland Avenue 404-870-9797

Located on the gorgeous Capella Pedregal resort, Don Manuel’s is the centrally located restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. B and I tried all three meals during our stay.

With a candlit view of the infinity pool and ocean beyond it, the tranquil atmosphere set the stage for a relaxing dinner. Again, we enjoyed perfect weather as we chose a table in the bar area, listening to a duo playing acoustic guitar. I tried the spiced sangria while B ordered a glass of red wine. The fruit in the sangria was nice but the cinnamon and cloves were excessive.

Moving to a table on the patio, B and I split the Pacific red lobster soup to start. Our server brought out warm rolls and butter along with two pretty ceramic bowls with big succulent chunks of lobster and chewy hominy resting in the bottom. He then proceeded to pour a tomato-based broth over the top. Despite the tomato we both loved it….one of the best dishes overall during our vacation!

We shared the trio of tamalitos, or mini tamales, each with a different flavor, roasted duck, lobster, and huitlacochee….three of my favorite things! Unfortunately, neither of us could distinguish which was which, perhaps because they were small and could not contain much filling.

Most disappointing was the huitlacochee, one of my favorite delicacies. A fungus that grows on corn, huitlacochee is indigenous to Mexico and has an unctuous mushroom flavor and is nearly black when prepared. Three dollops of sauces did little to jazz up the drab steamed masa.

We got a bowl of arroz con leche (rice pudding) for dessert. Creamy and spiced with cinnamon, it was a perfect rendition of this traditional Mexican dessert.

With a full menu of Mexican dishes I would surely give Don Manuel’s another try if I’m ever lucky enough to return to Capella Pedregal!