Hot Dish Review

A lovely dinner….
Pour a glass of wine, sit back and relax folks….this is gonna take a while. Nine courses with wine pairings plus a couple of “gifts from the chef” spanned a solid four hours.

Finding the Quinones Room is somewhat of a treasure hunt….BB and I followed the signs, walked through the breezeway, and down the stairs to the door with the big Q. Neutral curtains parted to reveal an elegant seating area furnished in shades of chocolate and cream. The intimate dining room is to the right with only ten tables covered in white linens. Antique mirrors, Venetian glass chandeliers, and lacquered wood frame chairs with a vintage patina lent a quiet air of Southern moneyed aristocracy.

At first, the service seemed too serious for my taste. There was a selection of water and the delivery of four mini cheese bread sticks before our server, Rafael, introduced himself in a barely audible hush. We would be having the prix fixe menu with the wine pairings….a multi-course marathon that began with a kir royale.

Bread service arrived on a wooden skewer. Various sizes and kinds of bread, from sourdough to onion, complimented by soft, sweet cream butter.

Two mini cheese gougeres were devoured tout de suite, as well as a shot of celery root soup with red onion jam, both gifts from Chef de Cuisine David A. Carson. Little bites that packed big flavor.

Krug Grand Cuvee champagne was poured in advance of our first course. I knew it would be a crudo, something ultra-light. Atlantic blue fin tuna, sashimi style, and Kumamoto oysters were paired with tiny cubes of Asian pear, slivers of radish, the bowl decorated with droplets of shoyu, a type of soy sauce. This would be the only dish I didn’t really enjoy.

For lack of a better monicker, the “drink boy” came by with a 2005 sauternes for our next dish, a foie gras terrine. I commented to BB that I usually prefer foie gras seared. I also noted something peculiar….the drink boy once again short-poured my wine. Perhaps that is a standard practice in fine dining? To pour an almost imperceptibly short glass for the lady at the table.

A square plate came out with a square of the foie gras terrine, accompanied by three, questionably four, preparations of Fuyu persimmon and a little mound of spiced cocoa nibs. There was a persimmon puree, a dollop of persimmon preserves, and a slice of candied persimmon. I believe the streak of orange-y powder along the side was freeze-dried persimmon, but I could be wrong. Each little bite of the decadent foie gras was immaculate, with a smudge of sweet persimmon. What could make it even better you ask? Four baby popovers made with a mild cheese and the slightest hint of sweetness. Heaven.

A row of tiny Nantucket Bay scallops sat upon a cauliflower puree, each one topped with black pearls of caviar. Sauvignon blanc, fresh with hints of grapefruit, paired nicely. Rafael had loosened up as I quizzed him about his former employment. Turns out he has always worked for Quatrano and Harrison, the pair that own Baccanalia, Floataway, Abbattoir, and Star Provisions.

Loup de mer, a simple white fish, was made stunning with its toppings of earthy black trumpet mushrooms and baby potato chips made with fingerlings, all resting on a bed of melted Spring onions. Chardonnay was the obvious choice for wine.

Now things would take a turn for the rich, heavy, dark. Drink boy poured glasses of a 2007 pinot noir from Willamette Valley as the dance of service continued with unwavering steadiness. Truffled cabbage and Jerusalem artichoke provided the creamy base for a chunk of braised veal cheek, so tender it fell apart at the mere sight of my fork. But first BB and I sliced into the crispy veal sweetbreads that crowned the meat, lightly fried in a coating with a hint of nutmeg. He loves sweetbreads. If they were always this good and tender, I can see why. Although small, the braised veal was filling, containing quite a bit of fat. It was a very rich dish.

The menu listed loin of loin next. Huh? We chuckled…..was it loin of lion? Hilarious. Turns out it was venison. Louis M. Martini Reserve cabernet sauvignon was poured….still short. Glazed young vegetables like Brussels sprouts, carrots, and beets were scattered beneath two thick slices of roasted venison, cooked perfectly medium rare. Unlike the veal, there was not a speck of fat, yet the dense meat was succulent and smooth, the outside of the roast coated with a spice rub containing a hint of clove. A dollop of caramelized onion stole the show…I savored every sweet bit of it.

On to the cheese course, a segue into dessert. Cumberland, a medium bodied cheese with little holes, reminded me of fontina. It was paired with Ellijay apples, both preserved and cubed, and young arugula.

Time for dessert wine, what appeared to be a Spanish tawney. Our first dessert (yes, there were two!) was a glass cup layered with cranberries, brown sugar streusel, then toasted meringue, providing intense tanginess, crunchy sweetness, and fluffy chewiness, a crazy combo of textures.

Our final course was two dense cubes of Valrhona chocolate ganache with a small scoop of frozen chocolate custard on the side. The best part of the dessert was the thickened sweet potato puree, sprinkled with crispy chocolate nuggets.

Quinones Room lived up to the hype, the seamless execution a study in precision, both in service and in the food itself. Was it the best meal I’ve ever had? Quite possibly.

1198 Howell Mill Road 404-365-0410

LC and I got a late start on Friday, driving to Lake Burton in the North Georgia mountains for a weekend get-away. Rather than making the trek all the way up to the condo only to have to drive back down for dinner, we stopped at the restaurant at LaPrades Marina where LC’s uncle’s boat is stored.

It’s called The Chophouse, an upscale open-air restaurant and bar made of rough-hewn timbers and huge log supports. The place barely escaped the F4 tornado that swooped down the valleys and up the mountains in the area, cutting a path of destruction that visible on land and from the lake.

We chose a couple of seats at the bar, taking in the tranquil scenery and chilling out with a nice cold beer. The weather was perfect, just prior to sunset. Although we had snacked on veggie chips on the drive, we were both famished, so we started off with an appetizer special. Described as BBQ chicken flatbread, it was also topped with smoked gouda, caramelized onions, and basil. Sounds sorta like California Pizza Kitchen’s infamous concoction. However, there was no hint of BBQ (thankfully), but the pizza was sauced with a rather garlicky pesto. I know my smoked gouda and I dare say it was not smoked. Despite these issues, it was a tasty starter.

Moving on we decided to split the double cut pork chop with a sweet potato on the side. I ordered a glass of red wine, a rare choice in the Summer. A simple salad came with the meal. The chop was dressed with blackberry fig sauce and crumbles of blue cheese, a winning combination. Accompanying veggies, cauliflower and corn, were entirely flavorless, but the 1 3/4″ thick chop was surprisingly juicy and tender, with a subtle smokiness. And as it should be, after all, this is a chophouse!

We would end up at The Chophouse every day, stopping in for an appetizer and drink after our boat excursion on Saturday and for brunch on Sunday. Steak and cheddar spring rolls came with a remoulade and BBQ sauce, neither of which I liked, but the snack gave us enough energy to make it back up the mountain to get ready for dinner.

More on brunch later….

1488 Highway 197, North Clarkesville 706-947-0010

Lake Lanier Islands has a reputation for family fun….nothing fancy. There is a water park, and a casual restaurant at Sunset Cove, where all the houseboats pull up to party.

But there’s another side to Lake Lanier, its resort called Legacy Lodge. Gorgeous views, golf, a spa, and fine dining are making this resort the next hot destination for weddings, corporate meetings, and weekend getaways.

LC and I spent a night at one of the lake cottages recently, a sweet two bed, two bath with a huge balcony complete with a jacuzzi and a grill.

A Mardis Gras party was planned but since the weather didn’t cooperate, it was cancelled, so we ended up having some dinner at Bullfrogs Bar & Grille. We chose a booth in the nearly empty dining room and ordered a couple of drinks.

This restaurant serves guests at the pool in the warmer months, offering a variety of healthy menu choices. Lighter items include the nutritional information, although I question the accuracy on some like the island chicken salad with sliced melon, for instance. It is described as chicken salad tossed with cashew pieces, crushed pineapple, and raisins, and having 182 calories. Either the serving is tiny or the calorie count is grossly underestimated. Nevertheless, I applaud their effort.

LC was ravenous so we tried the bruschetta to start. This is a dish that can suffer from numerous issues including soggy toast and a heavy hand with garlic. Not to mention, its inclusion on practically every menu in the ’90′s made it as predictable as fried calamari. Bullfrogs served four large, crisp toasts topped with fresh chopped tomatoes, diced pepper jack cheese, basil, and a drizzle of balsamic reduction. It was fresh and bright….I was pleasantly surprised. If you are not in the mood for bruschetta, you can order….you guess it….the fried calamari.

I rarely crave red meat, but on this occasion I had a hankerin’ for a steak….medium rare. There were several choices but I went with the pan seared filet mignon, a 4-5 oz medallion topped with artichoke heart pesto and served over sweet potato puree and steamed broccoli. The nutritional content of the dish was listed below its menu description…..182 calories, 6 grams of fat, 448 mg. of sodium. Strangely, there was no carbohydrate or protein information.

It sounded amazing, but to be honest, I didn’t expect gourmet fare at Lake Lanier. When my filet arrived, I took its temperature….perfect. Seriously tender, the pesto added crazy good flavor to the already fantastic cut of meat. And with sweet potatoes? That’s right, it kicked ass.

There are also plenty of unhealthy menu options. LC went with one of those….their signature “Firehouse” baby back ribs. He chose a salad as one of his sides, onion rings as the other. The salad was nothing special, unless you really like croutons.

Described as “fall-off-the-bone goodness”, his half rack was coated with a sweet and spicy sauce. The succulent meat really did fall off the bones, as promised. LC’s onion rings were perfectly crispy, but not greasy. We had to take half of his entree back to our cottage where it made an awesome midnight snack after we tried out the hot tub in the rain. We were determined to enjoy our stay, damn it!

And we did. I’m looking forward to many return visits, perhaps lounging by the pool and sampling some of Bullfrogs’ light salads or sandwiches. Or spending a day at the spa while LC plays a round of golf.

Concentrics’ premier hotspot, ONE Midtown Kitchen, is alive and well. Its space as dramatic as ever, the restaurant was pleasantly busy Friday night.

Seven years ago ONE was among a small handful of Atlanta restaurants that served forward, creative cuisine. I made a habit of going to ONE back in those days, usually dining (and drinking) at one of the hightops in the bar area.

They were known for their wine program, offering a large selection of whites and reds by the glass or half glass so guests could sample a variety without spending a fortune.

Over the years, ONE has been home to several chefs, some moving on to fame and fortune, like Richard Blais. The current chef, Drew Van Leuvan, is no stranger to trendy restaurants, having run the kitchen at Spice, Saga (both closed), and most recently Room at TWELVE.

Their calamari appetizer remains the best in the city, cut lengthwise rather than across, creating long straight pieces instead of the typical rings. The dish has undergone as many changes as the restaurant has chefs, but it is still a personal favorite.

On our visit Friday night I introduced the calamari to LC. It was unfortunately greasy, but exquisitely tender as always. I liked it best a few years ago when there was a spicy Asian sauce drizzled onto the plate. The latest version is topped with smoked onions and pimentos with a sweet and sour “agrodolce”.

We sampled our way through much of the red wines by the glass, starting with the Pennywise Petite Syrah and the Sinskey Concentrics Merlot. Bread service hasn’t changed much over the years consisting of slices from a good, rustic white loaf and a cluster of skinny dry breadsticks, served with garlicky hummus instead of butter. I’m not a fan. Just give me a warm baguette and sweet unsalted butter, please.

Our leisurely dinner continued with an appetizer portion of a pasta dish called caramelle, big pasta pockets filled with sweet potato, then twisted on the ends like giant pieces of wrapped hard candy. Brown butter, thyme, and parmesan made it rich and satisfying.

Half glasses of Cooper Hill Pinot Noir and Domaine ‘La Garrique’ Cotes du Rhone complimented an artisan cheese plate with such favorites as creamy Brillat Savarin and an intense chunk of Roquefort. Passion fruit mostarda and compressed carrot bread provided sweet accompaniments. Good stuff.

A small plate of duck confit on sweet potato puree with apple and pistachio was rich and comforting on this chilly Fall evening. I love Fall and Winter menus! Selections like wood grilled pheasant with hakeuri turnips, mushroom, and huckleberry mostarda or smoked duck breast with crisp polenta make the cold weather almost bearable.

Another round of wine was ordered, including a sparkling Lambrusco. There was no need for anything more but we ordered dessert nonetheless, a seemingly contradictory “souffle glace” of caramel and banana with milk chocolate, almond crumble and rhum sorbet. Huh? It was so forgettable I forgot to take a picture.

Despite a couple of missteps, it was nice to see an old favorite stand the test of time.

559 Dutch Valley Way 404-892-4111

Ah yes, brunch with the ex. We used to go to brunch most every Sunday when we were together so when SS suggested it I agreed it would be nice, for old time’s sake.

And what better place to go than Ria’s? Back in our punk rock days, she was the big lesbian that would kick any guy’s ass (and I’m sure she still could). Now she is a successful restaurateur….we’re all so proud!

Ria’s Bluebird is in a small building on Memorial Drive, across from Oakland Cemetery. Breakfast and lunch are served daily but it’s her brunch that has everyone lining up on the weekends, from old folks with walkers to tattooed young parents.

The bluebird motif is found throughout the restaurant. A bright blue painted ceiling and matching wood chairs paired with well-worn wood tables give the space a homey, kitschy vibe, perfect for this progressive ‘hood.

A covered patio on the side provides a pretty yet eclectic seating alternative.

Anything but average, Ria’s menu is a combination of Southern and Southwestern flavors with numerous vegetarian options like the country fried tempeh with house gravy, grilled tomato and sauteed spinach atop a grilled buttermilk biscuit. But SS and I are unrepentant carnivores so we opted for hearty meat and egg dishes.

I chose one of the specials, chipotle chicken gravy benedict. It is almost impossible for me to resist benedict, although my preference is the traditional hollandaise sauce. The promise of spiciness from the chipotle plus the sweet potato cake for my side sounded scrumptious. I didn’t realize it was served on a split biscuit when I ordered it, and I’m not a big biscuit fan. The gravy wasn’t nearly spicy enough so I had to request Texas Pete’s, but I loved the sweet potato cake flavored with cinnamon. A dab of the homemade applesauce on the table was yummy with it.

SS wanted something that would stick to his ribs so he ordered the biscuits and gravy. Ria’s gravy is called pepper milk gravy, a vegetarian version of red-eye gravy. He also got a side of two fried eggs and a side of bacon. Ria’s is generally quite affordable but despite being on a budget, with all his sides SS’s breakfast added up to $12, the same as my special. Math was not his best subject.

Other than eggs and bacon a la carte, Ria’s offers an array of unusual sides like spicy tofu cubes, sliced avocado, and a cup o’ beans, allowing guests to be creative. And, according to The NY Times, they serve the “world’s best pancakes”. I saw another diner’s pancakes and they were fluffier than my bed pillow!

The atmosphere alone is worth a visit and if you love biscuits and pancakes, ya just gotta go!

Opening a fine dining restaurant during the worst of economic times doesn’t sound like a smart business move, but somehow Pacci has survived and thrived. Perhaps it’s chef Keira Moritz who has gained notoriety and respect among her mostly male peers. Maybe its location in one of several new, trendy midtown hotels brings it the automatic business that hotel restaurants rely on, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner to guests.

Or, it could be that it simply kicks ass. It is fairly common knowledge that I rarely eat Italian food. But I acquiesed on this assignment for AFD because I liked that a successful female chef was running the show.

ST and I valeted the HotDishmobile last Friday and walked in to Pacci. There was Geno! How fabulous, I hadn’t seen him since his days at Spice Market. We sat newlywed style on a banquette with a view of the expansive and dark dining room, lit by sets of enormous globes that hung from the high ceiling, shaded by long black fringe. The burgundy velvet and wood tones of the decor are puncuated by light blue and cream jacquard armchairs, one per table. Elegant.

Geno started us out with a couple of specialty bellinis, one with vanilla liqueur and the other with passion fruit. Then he brought out an amuse bouche of butter lettuce with seafood salad, light and fun.

After some discussion, Geno recommended a wine flight for me….a trio of 2007 pinot noirs from Sequana Vineyard, each with a distinct character. I ended up ordering another glass or two of the spicy Dutton Ranch.

The kobe beef carpacio was our first course, dressed with capers, tapenade, and baby arugula. Their bread service was an assortment of crispy wafers, focaccia, and cracker-like bread sticks. Problem with that is, I love authentic Italian bread and would prefer to have that at an Italian restaurant, with sweet butter please.

For our second course ST chose the lobster and butternut squash bisque with creme fraiche. Smooth and creamy, I don’t recall any chunks of lobster but the flavor was rich, reminiscent of she crab soup.

Naturally, I ordered the duck confit. A perfect example of this cooking method, the meat was succulent, falling of the bones, while the skin was super crispy. Served over soft polenta with bits of gorgonzola and blackberry marmalade, it sounds like a foolproof combination. But somehow, the four main components were not integrated. I found the gorgonzola unnecessary and while I do love a sweet accompaniment to duck, perhaps the dish would have been even better with mascerated blackberries. Nevertheless, it was damn awesome.

Eating our way down the menu, next came pastas. ST tried the shrimp fettucini with creamy pancetta sauce, Spring peas, and a soft fried egg on top, a.k.a carbonara. Rich, rich, and delicious. I ordered the sweet potato ravioli (how predictable!). Four raviolis came topped with gorgonzola and speck with brown butter. Rich, rich, and delicious.

More? Yes. The pork chop with fennel, roasted yam, and pomegranate-basil pesto had my name written all over it. One of the best chops I have had in recent memory, very tender. Pesto provided a little Italian flavor, but it was the roasted yams, sliced into thin disks with crispy caramelized edges that were amazing!

ST got the dry aged New York strip, medium, with a side of cannellini beans. Big steak. Good steak. Guess what we had for breakfast….steak and eggs.

Desserts include the quintessential Italian tiramisu and panna cotta, but we opted for the straightforward sweets, chocolate strata and rum bread pudding. I cannot say no to bread pudding! Pastry chef Elizabeth Matheson’s version is baked in its own small casserole dish topped with caramel and a little dollop of vanilla gelato. Personally, I would drizzle the caramel on the hot pudding so it would remain gooey rather than on the cold ice cream, but no matter, it was fabulous. ST’s chocolate strata was a huge slice of chocolate cake layered with chocolate mousse, served with vanilla gelato. Pretty presentation, pretty chocolately.

We were stuffed! Despite a couple of minor complaints, Pacci made a great impression on both of us.

866 West Peachtree Street NW 678-412-2402

Helen, Georgia is known for its Bavarian facade and mostly Americanized German fare like bratwurst and sauerkraut. There are also the ubiquitous and decidedly un-German funnel cakes.

However, for the past nine or so years, visitors have had another more upscale option, Nacoochee Grill. The atmosphere is country casual in a remodeled old house next to the Habersham Winery. But the food is high quality, which is reflected in prices higher than average for the area.

Under new ownership the menu has undergone some changes recently, although I can’t complain. They had a seared foie gras special a couple of months ago that was fantastic and only $13, a bargain by Atlanta restaurant standards. I enjoyed it as my entree with one of their baked sweet potatoes and awesome salad on the side. (see my earlier post Foie Gras and Hot Boiled Peanuts in Helen, GA)

My parents and I have had dinner at Nacoochee numerous times, my Mom usually ordering the grilled Szechuan glazed salmon and my Dad sticks with blackened or grilled fish of some variety. I’ve been known to have the duck, pork chop, skewered shrimp and scallops, or fish, depending on my mood, all of which are served with a choice of two sides.

I’m very picky about my salads. I eat one almost every day. The side salad here is pretty standard field greens and often includes a few icky wilted leaves but I still love it because their signature honey balsamic dressing is delish!

Other sides served are slow simmered collards, sweet corn pudding, baked sweet potato with cinnamon butter, garlic cheese grits, smashed potatoes, and more, all with a sophisticated Southern accent.

Fried chicken, fried seafood, steaks, and pasta dishes round out the entrees while venison chili, smoked trout chowder, fried calamari, and crab cakes can often be found on the appetizers list. I’ve had the crab cake sandwich, sans bread, as a light lunch and it is pretty tasty.

However, my favorite lunch item is the French Country Salad. My Mom and I used to split it and get another dish like the above-mentioned crab cake or the smoked trout chowder, but recently we’ve taken to ordering two of the salads…..we love it that much! Made with field greens, it is topped with copious amounts of gorgonzola, walnuts, thick-cut bacon, and a few slices of apple and onion. It comes with warm bacon vinaigrette (pretty much just bacon fat which is naturally delicious), but of course, we opt for the house honey balsamic dressing.

Their wine list is mostly from neighboring Habersham Winery. Despite Nacoochee’s lack of German cuisine, do have the riesling, it’s a sweet deal!

Serving up love in the Old 4th Ward! The restaurant is hard to find, in what is still a relatively sketchy neighborhood, but I always leave happy that I came.

Each of my visits have been solo for lunch. It was probably Cliff Bostock’s rave reviews that peaked my interest in visiting a vegetarian restaurant because I am certainly a carnivore. But it sounded as though the chef/owner David Sweeney was a daring entrepreneur who’s reinterpretation of vegetarian dishes was vibrant and creative.

His dishes are made with meticulous precision. You will never find limp greens in your salad or less than perfectly ripe pears, apples, or flavorless tomatoes….locally sourced, impecably prepared. The prices reflect this diligence, but as is so often the case, you get what you pay for.

Last Friday found me in the neighborhood so I stopped in. I particularly love the space on a sunny day given the entire front is windows. It feels so fresh, clean, healthy. Every table was occupied by two diners but it is commonplace to share here, so I sat with a couple of guys that said ‘fuck’ even more often than I do (if that’s possible).

Never knowing what will be on the menu I was thrilled to see Sweeney using every Fall ingredient I love, making my decision a difficult one. I could not pass up the sweet potato soup with chestnut, coconut, and cinnamon raisin croutons. Brought out by my favorite server (Stephen?) with a piece of fresh bread from Magnolia Bakery, unfortunately with caraway seeds, but I still nibbled on it anyway. I was hoping the soup would have a bit more sweetness, especially with the addition of coconut, but it was the cinnamon raisin croutons that really made it for me.

Along with the soup I had half a salad of radicchio, frisee, escarole, Gala apple, sunflower seeds, spring onion, and feta. In hind sight I would have just had a whole salad, it was fabulous! Different than other salads I’ve had at Dynamic, this one was almost a chopped salad, every component perfectly intregrated and balanced.

My first meal here was a salad of arugula, pear, and candied pecans topped with a mini round of warm Bucheron. That was probably over a year ago and I still remember it! Damn, it was good. I really need to get my ass over there for pizza night on Saturdays….I hear reservations are necessary, keep in mind the space is quite small.

Due to the seasonality of the menu, it changes daily to include what’s at market. Sweeney’s background in catering healthy meals in Germany translates here into a concise blackboard menu of a salad (sometimes two), a sandwich, a bowl or plate of vegetables, a soup, whatever works best with the ingredients at hand. There are some sweets like dark chocolate, almond stuffed dates for a dollar and a small selection of organic cookies, some wheat-free options, coffees, and teas.

So go……you’ll feel good inside and out!

427 Edgewood Avenue Closed Sundays & Mondays 404-688-4344 www.dynamicdish.net