Hot Dish Review

We tried to go to Sound Table. Really, we did. But our friend CL was out of sorts and swore I said Top Flr. So, of course, that is where we ended up.

It was late-ish and I was hungry-ish. B and I made our entrance, said our hellos, and quickly ordered some wine. Quick, however, wasn’t the manner of delivery. It wasn’t N’s fault, all of the glasses were dirty. My lack of patience made the wait seem like forever but it was probably only ten minutes.

Once we each had a glass of Bordeaux, we were ready to order food. The roasted chicken and kimchee plate at Taste of Atlanta had me craving the actual dish. B decided on the pappardelle, the current version with mushrooms. Both of us love Brussels sprouts so we had the Brussels au gratin and the irresistible mac ‘n’ cheese on the side.

As is often the case, seated at the bar, meals at Top Flr become a communal experience. Folks show up, pull up a chair and by the end of the evening you’ve sampled food from friends and strangers alike.

PLB was there with his awesome wife J. JM was running the show. O popped in and joined us, ordering the mouthwatering duck confit pizza. Our entrees and smoldering sides came. My chicken was a tiny little thing, more like a Cornish game hen, however, the portion was rather large. Its crispy brown skin covered the succulent dark meat (did I have three leg quarters?) atop a soy reduction, paired with perfectly spicy kimchee made with Brussels sprouts.

The other preparation of Brussels sprouts, gratin with bacon, cream and fennel was one of the most amazing dishes I’ve had in recent memory. O took a bite and said “I got a big chunk of pork and it was goooooood!” I commented to Dinner Party sommelier JD who was working the bar that I could eat a bowl of it for breakfast and he concurred.

B’s pappardelle was the very definition of comfort food, rich and earthy with chanterelle, oyster, and lobster mushrooms in a creamy truffle jus. The simplicity of the pappardelle belies the hours of labor it takes to make it in-house. It is easy for diners to take the flawless pasta for granted.

An acquaintance of O’s was seated an few stools down from me and we got to chatting about our mutual love of food. Later he offered me a taste of his roasted squash.

My least favorite dish of the evening was the mac ‘n’ cheese. It was a little drier than usual. O shared his duck confit pizza which was as decadent and delicious as ever.

Sound Table, sorry we stood you up. We’ll be back soon, I promise!

674 Myrtle Street 404-685-3110

The first time I attempt any dish there is that moment of uncertainty, especially when I am trying to duplicate a family recipe like my Grandma’s fried green tomatoes. And especially when I have critisized so many chefs for turning them into something they are not.

Fried green tomatoes are, in fact, a side dish to be served along with meat and other veggies. They can often be found on restaurant menus as appetizers, drizzled with aioli and topped with goat cheese or some other atrocity, their delecate, tangy flavor obliterated by heavy breading and deep-frying. Shameful.

Lovingly reproduced by my Mom, here is my Grandma’s recipe (if you can even call it that, it is more of a method). I probably could have made them by memory but I got the verbal instructions from her to be safe. Just so you know, I used two medium/large green tomatoes and ate every last bite….they were that f*ckin good!

Green tomatoes
Corn meal
All-purpose flour
Canola oil
Salt & pepper

Slice the green tomatoes about 1/4″ thick or a little thinner. Season with salt and pepper and lightly dust with half corn meal, half flour, just until coated. Heat about 3 teaspoons oil to medium/high. Add the tomato slices in a single layer to hot pan and cook 15-20 minutes turning several times. Watch carefully and turn heat down, cooking until tomatoes are tender and browned.

If I can make them right on the first attempt there is no excuse for the pathetic execution of this dish at most restaurants.

Having recently had a little “procedure”, I’ve been stuck at the homestead all week, full of hydrocodone. Since my plum puff pastry project was such a success with the help of some valium I thought this would be a good time to roast some butternut squash and apples.

I had purchased pre-cut butternut squash at Trader Joe’s, having heard that cutting it was a perilous task. JJ, one of my colleagues, had made this recipe with pumpkin pie spice and it looked delicious! I made my own bastardized version with the addition of some onions and a few savory spices.

My kitchen smelled great and the flavor was subtly sweet and a bit spicy….the perfect Fall side dish! Here is my impromptu recipe:

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND APPLES

1 18 oz. container of cut up butternut squash
(note: I cut the pieces a bit smaller)
2 large apples, cut into cubes
1/2 cup Vidalia onion cut into large pieces
2 tbsp. olive oil
cinnamon
red pepper
curry powder
fresh black pepper
allspice

Toss the cut squash, apples and onion with oil in a shallow glass baking dish. Add spices to taste (I used only a dash of the curry) and roast for 45 minutes in a 350 degree oven.

I thought the texture of the apples didn’t quite hold up to that of the squash, might add them halfway through baking next time. This could be great with turkey for Thanksgiving with some dried cranberries and pecans tossed on top….yum!