Hot Dish Review

As a food writer, sometimes I want to go “off the clock” so to speak. For instance, when LC and I visit our neighborhood favorite Goin’ Coastal, often I just eat without taking photos or making notes. Not to mention, I’ve written a magazine article and numerous blog posts about the Virginia Highlands location (the original is in Canton) of this sustainable seafood operation since it opened a couple of years ago. But now it’s been a while and I feel like they deserve some cudos!

After a long day at work, LC will often pick up a takeout order or we’ll meet and dine at the bar, chatting with chef and partner Seth Hendricks. Meanwhile, Joey mixes a mean martini for my sweetie….he likes ‘em a little dirty with blue cheese stuffed olives. Our standard order is a pound of colossal steamed shrimp and a couple of sides including their jalapeno cornbread pudding, served piping hot in its own little casserole dish. On occasion we splurge on the decadent lobster mac, full of succulent lobster claws.

Our recent visit was on a Wednesday when Goin’ Coastal offers a dozen oysters for $5 and the bar was full, so we sat at the hightop by the window, directly in front of the hostess stand (poor girl, we talked to her the whole time). This perspective provided a fresh view of the restaurant’s modern nautical decor, with fresh blue walls framing black and white photos of fishermen with their catch of the day. Next to the photos you’ll find a chalkboard menu with Goin’ Coastal’s catch of the day, prepared to your liking.

We ordered our regular shrimp and sides combo, including a house salad for LC. Huge, wild-caught shrimp were steamed and perfectly seasoned. The cornbread pudding was particularly custardy, but extra spicy.

Our server gathered our empty plates and offered a list of desserts. Key lime pie….no. Cheesecake….no. LC’s got quite a sweet tooth and I have a weakness for bread pudding so when she said chocolate bread pudding, we couldn’t say no. It was served with homemade whipped cream that melted down the warm pudding’s crunchy and chewy crust….even better than I imagined.

The service at Goin’ Coastal is always welcoming and you can count on a great meal….and isn’t that what neighborhood favorites are all about?

1021 Virginia Avenue NE 404-941-9117

Lately I’ve found myself eating lots of Italian food, ironically not among my favorite cuisines. Meals at Davio’s and LPC, however, are slowly changing my Americanized-spaghetti-and-meatballs view of what Italian cooking is….or should be.

STG Trattoria is Brian Lewis’ newish spot, named with the initials of his three sons. Hidden away right in the middle of Buckhead, it’s miles from his other restaurant, Bocado on the Westside. Having only tried brunch there, an evening visit was in order.

The vaulted entryway lined with bottles of wine is just as impressive at night, the soft lighting adding romance to the modern industrial space. Our group of five arrived for our reservation, eager for libations and an appetizer or two. Heather seated us at the communal table by the open kitchen where I could watch chef Josh Hopkins, transplanted from Abattoir, ready each plate for service.

We were given a tablet containing the wine list with click-on descriptions of each….ingenious if you have hours to contemplate your choice, but we found navigating the computerized list between five of us to be frustrating. Their Italian-style Amaro apertifs have made a splash in Atlanta’s evolving cocktail scene, but the guys went with classic martinis while us chicks chose wines by the glass.

We started with the roasted shrimp and calamari served over soft polenta and dressed with squid ink vinaigrette. The dish wouldn’t win a beauty contest, but might win a blind taste test. A starter of roasted quail that I was intent on ordering unfortunately changed its accompaniment from figs to cannellini beans, quickly removing it from my “to eat” list.

An order of bruschetta was an unusual combination of Fall’s quintessential squash, the butternut, crispy prosciutto, fontina, and arugula on three large pieces of toast. Everyone loved it. Realizing that the portions were normal rather than super-sized, we chose a third starter, the roasted duck breast. Served in the mini cast-iron skillet in which it was roasted, the duck was finished with preserved chanterelles and celery leaf….a comforting, earthy dish.

We decided to share two pizzas, one topped with speck, smoked grana, cacio di roma, castelvetrano (now that’s a mouthful) olives, tomato sugo, and arugula, the other with roasted king trumpet, beech, and oyster mushrooms, pancetta, fontina, and rosemary. Both were on wafer thin crusts, nicely charred in the oven, and scantily clad with the aforementioned toppings. There is no “extra cheese” or “quadrupel meat” in Italy. My only concern was the toppings separated quite easily from the crust, leaving bare spots.

One in our group was Italian, so it was interesting to get his impressions of the meal’s authenticity. He ordered a pasta dish, the braised lamb ragu with ricotta and oregano over tagliatelle, for everyone to try. Personally, pasta with marinara has no appeal whatsoever, but he said the flavor was good, although he would have preferred bigger pieces of meat. Everyone agreed the texture of the pasta was perfectly al dente’.

Most of us were on round two of drinks when the pizzas were polished off. But we still had room for something sweet! Of the three desserts offered, we chose two: a panna cotta trio and a chocolate budino.

Having eaten a luscious budino at LPC the week before, I described it to my dining companions as a cross between cake and pudding, gooey and warm in the center. Chef Hopkins’ version is more dense, much like a traditional English pudding. It was served chilled and topped with strawberries.

The panne cotta were in three flavors, honey with preserved lemon, vanilla with blueberry compote, and cappuccino. Naturally I assumed my favorite would be the latter, but surprisingly I fell for the honey in spite of the lemon. In fact, it was the chewy, sugar-coated texture of the lemon peels that won me over.

Leave your expectations of garlic bread and mounds of fettucine alfredo at home. Lewis’ vision of an authentic trattoria is realized at STG. Simple and surprisingly light.

102 West Paces Ferry Road 404-844-2879

It had a been a long, long time since I last ate Indian food, other than the frozen tikka masala or palaak paneer dinners that are actually quite palatable.

But I had a craving so I talked LC into going to Desi Spice, just a few minutes away, located above the Midtown Art Cinema. The decor is not fancy, with only a few ornate gold Indian pieces set against a background of red and turqoise, puncuated with plain white tables and cheap black chairs. It was getting late and only a few guests remained. Preferring to keep my dining experiences geographically authentic, I ordered a King Fisher beer imported from India.

More familiar with Indian cuisine than LC, I decided we should share a couple of my favorites, including the spiciest Indian dish, vindaloo, available with your choice of proteins. Nevertheless, he spotted tandoori wings on the menu, so we tried them. They were an unnatural shade of red and not nearly as spicy as we had hoped.

I steered away from fried samosas in favor of naan, traditional Indian flatbread cooked in a tandoori oven, with two dipping sauces, a spicy chili and a refreshing raita made with yogurt and cucumber, a strange call for me, the cucumber hater.

An order of palaak paneer and shrimp vindaloo, would be plenty for us to share. We snacked on the pleasingly chewy naan, alternating between the spicy and the cool dips. The dishes arrived with a side of jasmine rice which we spooned onto our plates, topping it with the shrimp vindaloo. LC noted right away that the shrimp were overcooked. It seems they had been simmering in the sauce for hours. I was surprised to find no vegetables in the dish, just twenty of the tiny rubbery shrimp. The sauce displayed some depth, but I’ve had hotter vindaloos.

The palaak paneer was more pleasing. Cubes of cheese with a firm, dense texture were buried in the rich creamed spinach.

My last experience here was a bit better. The place is consistently busy and I’ve read both glowing and negative reviews online; some say it is the most authentic Indian food they’ve had in Atlanta, while others say the exact opposite. All I can say is, don’t get shrimp.

931 Monroe Drive NE 404-872-2220

I rarely rave about anything. But get ready, because I’m about to tell you that my recent dinner and movie date with LC was the best movie experience ever!

Reviews on CineBistro in Town Brookhaven have been mostly positive, so I was expecting decent food and drinks. Heck, just the fact that you can get alcoholic beverages at a theater is an exciting concept…like adults in Europe!

I had already mapped out my strategy for maximum pleasure, planning on an appetizer and drink at the bar, then dinner and more drinks while watching Rock of Ages. It was a good plan, but I didn’t count on sitting in traffic for 45 minutes. No worries. Manager Brian Dobson explained the theater’s concept and said we still had time to execute my plan despite the time. LC was already at the bar ordering his dirty martini, so I joined him, deciding to try their sangria.

Without delay, I ordered the bacon wrapped dates, little sugary gems stuffed with sharp gorgonzola, then wrapped with chewy, salty bacon. A balsamic glaze and herb oil finished the plate of deliciousness that paired perfectly with my spicy, fruity sangria. It was an exciting preview, but it was almost time for the feature, so we headed into the theater where we had assigned seats on the back row. The stadium style seating in oversized leather chairs provided great views and comfort, with the added benefit of a retractable tray for food and drinks.

We ordered a second appetizer, lamb lollis, and our entrees, all of which would be brought out prior to the beginning of Rock of Ages. A martini for LC, another glass of sangria and my traditional movie treat, Milk Duds, came out first while we watched multiple trailers for new releases.

Just before the movie began, our server returned with LC’s rock shrimp risotto and my habanero glazed pork tenderloin. I expected the smoked gouda grits that accompanied the pork to be creamy, but they were formed in a circle and rather dry. No cheese was detected, but I had forgotten that it was supposed to be there, instead enthralled with the thin discs of pineapple that sandwiched the grits. Heat from the habanero glaze played off the sweet pineapple and was further complimented by the delicate crunch from the cubes of jicama. The green onion had taken on the stringy texture that they often do when cooked, making it difficult to cut, so I ate it whole. Then I licked my plate.

Less impressive were the lamb lollis with potato sauce and pomegranate glaze, perhaps because they were a little too fatty, or maybe it was that everything else was so good. LC couldn’t quite finish his risotto, full of plump shrimp thoughtfully cut into bite-size pieces with tails removed….remember, it’s pretty dark in the theater and no one wants to encounter shrimp tails hidden in their risotto. My fork wandered over to his bowl on several occassions.

I finished my sangria and wished I had another, but was too involved in the movie (and too lazy) to leave my seat. Rock of Ages kicked ass! Cheesy yet ridiculously entertaining for the 40-55 age group, it was a hilarious trip back in time. I opened the box of Milk Duds and quietly sang along to Guns ‘n’ Roses, Journey, Scorpions….and smiled, caramel stuck to my teeth.

1004 Town Blvd. 404-333-0740

Maybe it’s a sign of our fear of commitment. Temporary boutiques are popping up everywhere, food trucks roam our streets setting up shop in parking lots, and now there’s a pop up restaurant at Atlantic Station….but only through the end of the year.

After an ill-fated Yelp party located in the vacant former Fox Sports Bar space, BB and I ended up at this foodie find operated by Billy and Jenn Streck of Cypress Street Pint & Plate. Staffed by a hodge podge of industry pros including chef Bart Hibbs who’s worked with such stars as Iron Chef Michael Symon, Hudson North feels as polished as any restaurant in town.

Decor is simple, puncuated by candles in mason jars strung across the intimate dining room abandoned by The Grape. The addition of Christmas trees adds to the Wintery festivity. We chose seats at the bar, always enjoying the entertaining banter of a witty bartender….perfect since this one was a stand-up comedian on holiday. With champagne on my brain, I chose the cocktail made with it, hibiscus liqueur and bitters. Sparkly and subtly sweet.

Although we snacked on a couple of things at the party, BB was ravenous, starting with the pickled plate, an assortment of things like country ham, ricotta, mixed olives, and pickled cantaloupe balls. I hate cantaloupe and actually have an allergic reaction to it as well, but was still tempted to try it pickled. Mistake for me, but BB devoured ‘em. I stuck to the meat, cheese, and olives with toasted sourdough.

Turns out, chef Hibbs had just left, but owner Billy arrived and made up for his absence by sharing his off-menu Brussels sprouts and filling us in on his pop up concept. Sure, I’ll have another cocktail!

We moved on to a couple of shared plates, the shrimp dish at his suggestion, braised chicken tacos at mine. His was better, a thick ragu of cannellini beans and lamb sausage providing a platform for the succulent shrimp. Sections of orange added an acid zing while the mint that usually decorates the top was put on the side to spare me and my distaste for it.

The pair of tacos were overstuffed corn tortillas that became unfortunately soggy due to the ancho chile sauce on the braised chicken. But a crisp root vegetable slaw gave the dish a pleasant crunch and saved the day. Although my choice was twice the quantity of food, it was about half the price of the shrimp dish.

Like a one-night stand, Hudson North will be a distant memory in a few short weeks. Difference is, we’ll actually miss this one.

264 19th Street NW 404-747-2297

Okay, so it wasn’t like we took over or anything. In fact, we were quite civil, enjoying a complimentary glass of prosecco while chatting with chef Jamie Adams who has been with Buckhead Life Restaurants for over twenty years!

I arrived a bit late so some complimentary bites were already underway. A generous platter of shaved prosciutto, chunks of robiola and asiago cheeses, and a variety of olives was enough for the table to share. Crispy fried marsala shrimp didn’t impress but the grilled octopus served over potatoes and red onions dressed with vinaigrette was light and delicious. A portion of tortelli filled with ricotta and local greens was divided into individual bowls, giving each blogger two plump pasta pockets which were inhaled in seconds.

Feeling somewhat conservative, I had already decided to try the Fall Tasting Menu, three courses for only $29. I was particularly looking forward to the rotisserie duck entree, but alas, it had been replaced by rosemary garlic marinated ribs, which I reluctantly ordered.

I was excited to try the appetizer, an arugula salad with smoked trout, pickled watermelon radishes, and red onions, dressed with white balsamic vinaigrette but couldn’t locate more than a sliver of fish when it arrived. Grrrrr. Perhaps a ridiculously pricey glass of cabernet would help?

I usually don’t associate ribs with Italian food. In fact, I’m not a fan of either. But I must admit these ribs had an delectable crust and flavor. The accompanying fresh arugula lightened up the meaty dish and I loved the crispy shoestring onions on top!

For dessert we shared two traditional Italian sweets; a plate of bomboloni and tiramisu. Not nearly as light and airy as the zeppoles at LPC, the bomboloni are made with ricotta, drizzled with honey, and served with vanilla whipped cream. Tiramisu was exactly what it was supposed to be, a classic.

And yes, the glass of cab did help.

41 14th Street NW 404-875-8424

Driving back from Helen last weekend, LC and I got a call from one of his friends to join him and his girlfriend for dinner at Red Sky Tapas Bar. Despite being full of weiners and kraut from our brief Oktoberfest visit, we said yes.

We rushed home to freshen up and headed back North. I was excited to try a new tapas bar and LC was excited to see (and hear) the dueling pianos, which were in full swing when we arrived. Our friends were already there enjoying the entertainment. We ordered drinks, prosecco for me and a vodka martini for LC, and a few tapas to share, like the grilled jerk wings, fried green tomatoes, and spicy chicken egg rolls. My favorite of the three was the tomatoes topped with goat cheese and a spicy chipotle aioli.

Our next round took on a seafood and bacon theme with bacon wrapped scallops, ahi tuna, and two orders of the lobster mac ‘n’ cheese with bacon. More impressive than the first set, I was particularly fond of the thick scallops, grilled to a golden brown. Delicate ahi tuna was cut into cubes and drizzled with a spicy sriracha mayo. Having eaten Goin’ Coastal’s incredible lobster mac full of claws and chunks of shellfish on many occassions, it was hard to get excited about Red Sky’s version. The lobster was imperceptable, but the dish was saved by the addition of bacon.

I switched to Murphy Goode red zin as we moved on to red meat with the appropriately messy citrus barbecue ribs and shrimp and filet medallions drizzled with whiskey sauce, neither of which photographed very well. Perhaps it was the third round of drinks that caused my camera to malfunction!

Our eating slowed down as we sang along to popular tunes from the dueling piano dudes, one of which is shown laying on top of his opponent’s piano in the photo above. Just good clean fun (except for the ribs!).

1255 Johnson Ferry Road 770-973-0100

Originally posted about a year ago….funny, it sounds like it could have happened yesterday.Friday night LC and I found the dining room at JCT Kitchen jam packed, despite the torrential downpour and severe thunderstorm warning. We had an evening to ourselves and wanted to enjoy a nice adult meal at a cool place.

Surprisingly, I had never made it to JCT before. It was one of the first restaurants to lure the trendy dining crowd to this somewhat industrialized neighborhood. Everything I had heard was positive so I was excited to give it a go.

The space is open, exuding warmth and simplicity, much like its neighbors Quinones Room and Baccanalia in the same complex. Across the way is the White Provisions building home to culinary star Abattoir and right next to the original Yeah! Burger.

Seated across from each other at a two-top along the wall, LC commented that conversation was nearly impossible, given the constant chatter from tables nearby. It was true, the atmosphere was anything but intimate. We would have preferred the patio had the weather cooperated.

We started with cocktails from their creative list, utilizing spirits like bitters, bourbon and rye, which has become rather de rigeur for upscale trendy restaurants these days. I was excited to see a sloe gin fizz on the list, taking me back to my childhood when my parents hosted card games and my Mom made this drink by the pitcher.

After delivering our cocktails, our server read off an entire menu’s worth of specials. I almost stopped him, having already decided on the bacon wrapped pork loin, when he said the word “duck”. The game had instantly changed. It was a breast and confit, I assumed a leg, with an orange champagne sauce served with sauteed peppers….a weird pairing but he had me at “duck”.

But first we wanted to sample a couple of starters, the “angry” mussels and the bacon wrapped figs with blue cheese. We found both dishes to be very impressive. The figs were not baked but rather raw, sliced in half with a thick strip of chewy bacon intertwined among the halves, which rested in an intensely sharp blue cheese sauce that provided the appropriate balance to the dish. A smattering of toasted almonds added a fun crunchy element.

A medium-sized bowl of mussles arrived, steaming in their aromatic broth flavored with peppered bacon, serano chilis, and onion. Although small, the shellfish were great. I especially enjoyed dipping the crusty rustic bread in the spicy broth. We loved ‘em!

When our server checked in I switched to prosecco. LC ordered the shrimp ‘n’ grits and I went for the duck, of course. His dish was richer than the Kennedys, grits engulfed in cheeses and butter, topped with shrimp and a battered and deep fried poached egg. A week’s worth of calories and fat, but decadently delicious.

My duck, however, was not exactly what I expected. Yes, the breast was nicely displayed with a crispy skin. Based upon our server’s description, I was expecting a leg confit, but instead the breast was served on a mound of shredded confit, seasoned with the orange champagne sauced described, creating a concoction which sort of reminded me of BBQ. The oily, crispy, gaminess of the confit was entirely lost. I wasn’t thrilled about the peppers to begin with and they did little to elevate the entree.

An unexpected favorite of the evening was the side dish of corn succotash that LC ordered. Bathed in butter, it was the epitome of Summer in the South. Ironically LC had actually changed his order to the squash, but it was a happy mistake.

We decided to forego edible dessert in favor of the liquid variety upstairs at JCT Bar. An acoustic guitarist entertained the crowd of thirty-somethings inside as the drizzle continued outside. A train chugged past as we headed to the car, anxious to get home and work off the surplus calories.

1198 Howell Mill Road 404-355-2252

After a six hour drive, we were ready for drinks! But much to our chagrin, Mammoth Cave is located in a dry county in Kentucky, so we stocked up on Corona Lights before our arrival, not expecting any establishment to serve alcohol. Luckily, the Mexican restaurant across the street from our motel serves liquor.

El Patron is obviously not accustomed to handling large groups as our crew of thirteen seemed to have them flustered. Once seated at the three tables covered with plastic, we immediately ordered a round of margaritas on the rocks. Their signature margarita, deceptively called The Patron, sounded like the kind LC and I always order, made without sour mix….and without Patron.

Although the name El Patron implies Mexican food, the menu also offers a variety of American entrees, including duck. Our group stuck with Mexican. LC was ravenous and ordered a shrimp cocktail and an order of chicken flautas for us to split, as well as the achiote marinated roast pork entree. Several people ordered fajitas. There was a lengthy wait for our drinks, however, when they arrived we agreed they were the best margaritas we had ever had! A couple of baskets of mediocre chips finally showed up with what tasted like marinara instead of salsa. And it was warm….weird.

Suddenly, LC’s drink flew across the table onto his sister’s lap, causing additional confusion for the harried staff. Shortly after, three orders of fajitas arrived. Other entrees came out but LC and I still had not received our appetizers. Another round of potent margaritas made us feel better while we waited.

Finally, our flautas were delivered, four tortillas filled with shredded chicken and covered with melted cheese. Served with lettuce, sour cream, and a big pile of mushy rice, it was the size of a full entree. Although everyone’s meal came with guacamole, there was none, so I found our server and requested it for the table. The flautas were pleasantly crisp and tasty but lacked spice. My version with green chilis is better.

By the time our pork arrived, those that had fajitas were finished. It wasn’t a pretty plate, filled with shredded pork, more rice and some watery beans. We ordered corn tortillas on the side to make tacos. Again, tasty but no hint of heat. I was stuffed. That’s when the shrimp cocktail arrived, a margarita glass with at least eight big shrimp and chunks of avocado swimming in that same horrific “salsa”. It was passed around the table and eventually disappeared.

After dinner we walked to the nearby ice cream shop. Just opened by a family that relocated from Waycross, Georgia, it was like hillbilly heaven, complete with a gift shop cluttered with thrift store finds including an irridescent unicorn and teddy bears made of wax. We each got a cone and watched the kids race go-carts next door. As we were leaving the teenage girl, a self-proclaimed hoola hoop champion, came out to demonstrate her talent. Very scary stuff.

822 Mammoth Cave Street 270-773-2278

New York Prime is the kind of restaurant where everything is colossal. Men with huge egos smoke big fat cigars and flirt with women whose massive implants have hardened with age. It’s a steakhouse built upon the American concept that says “bigger is better”.

LC and I stopped in to mingle with some business associates recently. I ordered a real martini with Bombay Sapphire much to the surprise of the bartender. What, no chardonnay little lady? No dude. And a sidecar is not a glass of ice. LC ordered his standard vodka martini with blue cheese stuffed olives. Neither of us had eaten dinner and we were getting a bit famished, tempting plates of enormous shrimp and colossal onion rings within arms reach. Sadly, they belonged to someone else.

There were only a few appetizers to choose from, so we ordered the shrimp and the lump crab, both served chilled with cocktail sauce and a housemade remoulade. A succulent snack, but not quite dinner. Another martini, please.

A quick peek at the menu revealed a selection of steaks and sides including a porterhouse for two (40 oz.) for $99.50. The one pound loaded baked potato described as “giant” is the obvious choice for a side. I chuckled.

New York Prime is a smoky man cave, a place where they conduct business when not on the golf course. As I stole another shrimp from an unsuspecting businessman’s plate, sucking the sauce off inch by inch, I wondered….is bigger always better? Indeed, most of the time it is.

3424 Peachtree Road 404-846-0644