Hot Dish Review

After a busy week of work and travel a casual dinner close to home was just what the doctor ordered. It had been a coon’s age since I’d eaten at Two Urban Licks. With so many new trendy spots opening each month, revisiting old favorites often ends up on the back burner.

LC and I walked into the dimly lit restaurant, which is cozy despite its cavernous interior, and took up residence at the first bar. We lucked out, as a cool little band was playing in the corner. The huge rotating rotisserie remains the focal point of the space, centrally located in the open kitchen.

Two is where chef Scott Serpas sharpened his skills prior to opening Serpas, one of Atlanta’s best restaurants. In fact, his signature salmon chips and lamb lollipops remain menu favorites.

I started off with a glass of red wine poured from one of their 42 stainless steel barrels, an ingenious one-of-a-kind gravity flow system. We proceeded to order several appetizers to share….the salmon chips, shaved calamari, black bean soup, and tacos.

The first dish to arrive was the salmon chips, four big potato chips each topped with short smoked salmon, chipotle cream cheese, capers, and red onions. I’ve eaten these many times and remember them being much better. On this visit, an overabundance of salmon, which tasted fishy, made the chips soggy. None of the other ingredients stood out resulting in a disappointing start.

The shaved calamari followed. A respectable yet standard fried version drizzled with a sweet a spicy sauce and wasabi cream. Black bean soup, garnished with a bit of cotija cheese, cilantro and jalalpeno creme fraiche was soothing and flavorful, but not very photogenic.

However, my favorite small plate was the tacos filled with tender Korean BBQ beef, crunchy kimchi, jack cheese, and cilantro. Only complaint is they sat in a puddle of juice, causing the crispy shells to become instantly soggy.

A few small plates leaves room for dessert! I couldn’t pass up the bread pudding, although it is described as “white chocolate cranberry”. I have no love for white chocolate, an oxymoron for a product made from cocoa butter, sugar, milk solids, and vanilla, lacking the part of the cocoa bean called the nib that gives chocolate its flavor. So it is not chocolate.

However, I had it on good authority that the stuff was undetectable in this dessert. The bread pudding was luscious and perfectly paired with excellent brown sugar ice cream that sat upon a mound of chocolate cookie crumbs for a textural extravaganza of crunchy, creamy, chewy deliciousness. We licked the plate.

820 Ralph McGill Blvd. 404-522-4622

I have an aversion to meetings….sales meetings, strategy meetings, meetings to decide when to have more meetings. But I love lunch meetings. Food opens the door to discussion, to finding common ground. Lunch meetings are productive, and sometimes downright delicious.

Although I live nearby, I’m guilty of avoiding downtown Atlanta due to my fear of parking drama, which is often unfounded. Most restaurants have valet parking, like we discovered at Peasant Bistro. LC and I met two execs from the Georgia Aquarium there recently.

It was my first visit and I was immediately dazzled by the stunning space, with its sweeping staircase and delicate light fixtures suspended from the high ceiling. An abundance of windows lent a sunny atmosphere to the elegantly appointed space.

The lunch menu displays a smart selection of salads, sandwiches, and entrees, all priced at $16 or less. Fried green tomatoes make an appearance as an appetizer as well as the “T” in a gussied up BLT. Plenty of my favorite ingredients dotted the menu….bacon, avocado, caramelized onions, duck confit. Perhaps chef Michael Patria reads my blog!

Despite the array of potential deliciousness, my choice was easy: duck confit salad with goat cheese and roasted grapes, the latter calling to mind Scott Serpas’ house salad with his amazing blistered grape dressing. I chuckled as LC ordered the shrimp and grits, his cousin PC’s favorite dish. Must be a genetic thang.

The Aquarium folks both ordered…(gasp!) fish. The salmon salad, to be precise. Decorated with shoestring carrots and cucumbers and dressed with lime/ginger dressing, it likely had an Asian accent.

LC’s dish was comprised of creamy, cheesy grits with a spiced tomato cream sauce flavored with andouille sausage, topped with four enormous prawns. He allowed me one delectable bite.

Meanwhile, my salad was even better than I had envisioned. Ultra-fresh baby greens included fluffy tufts of frisee, my favorite. Chunks of confit displayed the subtle gaminess that sets duck apart from its poultry cousins. Roasted grapes popped in my mouth and provided the necessary sweet accompaniment to the rich meat. The menu didn’t specify what kind of dressing would be served but I was pleased with the citrusy vinaigrette….perhaps the same orange vinaigrette served with the roasted beet salad? It was a very impressive dish, although I would have liked a bit more of the goat cheese.

As we were leaving, a painting caught my eye. It looked like the work of Tony Hernandez. A server said the restaurant’s owner, Maureen, would know who painted it, but I certainly didn’t expect her to be there. Unaware I had inquired about the painting, and unaware I was a food writer, she was not only there, but made sure to say goodbye as we were leaving. Very impressive.

And yes, the painting was indeed by Tony Hernandez. From what’s on the walls to what’s on the plate, Maureen has great taste!

250 Park Avenue West NW 404-230-1724

I don’t get out much….out of the city, that is. But recently, LC and I had the pleasure of dining out with his cousin and his wife in their neck of the woods.

It’s not that I think restaurants in the suburbs are inferior, it’s simply a matter of convenience, or inconvenience. When there are an abundance of intown restaurants that fulfill my culinary cravings, why drive thirty miles? Especially when one might have a drink….or two.

Nevertheless, there we were, in Marietta, going to one of their neighborhood favorites, The Paper Mill Grill. The space was warm and inviting, with soft lighting and wood furnishings. Seated in a cozy booth, we started off with a round of various martinis, from peach to good old fashioned gin. We were particularly fond of the fish bowl placed on the shelf that separated us from the booth next door, but the colorful beta didn’t move….until we tapped the glass. He’s alive!

All of us were starving, so we ordered two flatbread appetizers and zucchini fries. The latter were especially greasy and didn’t warrant more than one bite. Of the two flatbreads, one was the special with smoked salmon, capers, and onions. Not so special. The other, however, was super delicious, topped with fig preserves, blue cheese, bacon and grapes. It’s a combination that could have been cloyingly sweet if poorly executed, but instead, was perfectly balanced.

LC’s cousin is as predictable as sunburns in Summer. He always, and I mean always, orders shrimp and grits if it is on the menu. He cleaned his plate. Despite having salmon on one of our appetizers, LC wanted more of the pink fish, this time grilled and served on a pool of creamed corn risotto. He too cleaned his plate.

Us chicks chose salads. L ordered the blackened grouper baby blue salad, an enourmous dinner portion of chopped veggies, strawberries, walnuts and blue cheese, with balsamic vinaigrette. I tried the warm spinach salad with grilled chicken breast, smoked bacon, avocado, chopped egg, and mushrooms with a warm apple bacon vinaigrette. All you have to say is bacon and avocado and I’m in….talk about predictable. Chewy bacon, fresh avocado, tender chicken and….(surprise!) blue cheese….yes, it was awesome.

No room for dessert other than the liquid variety. We sipped our last martinis while listening to the guy playing acoustic guitar in the bar area. Too bad Paper Mill Grill is in the burbs.

305 Village Parkway NE 678-766-1500

Atlanta’s dining scene is diverse to say the least, from Buford Highway’s ethnic dives to the new farm-to-table concepts. Beyond the hotspots, however, there are those that fly under the radar…..literally.

The 57th Fighter Group Restaurant, located right next to Dekalb-Peachtree Airport (PDK), has been there since 1981, but many folks have never heard of it. Having undergone renovations in 2009, the aviation themed restaurant is once again becoming a dining destination. Visitors have a great view of the runway and there’s a patio to enjoy a cocktail while watching planes land and take off.

My first visit was last week when I went to pick up LC and perhaps have a drink at the bar together. His cousin PC is a pilot and they were just getting back from a business trip. I was surprised by the restaurant’s warm ambiance, its European farmhouse architecture made extra cozy by numerous fireplaces, exposed brick, and tons of memorabilia from the 57th Fighter Squadron.

Since it was getting late, we decided to go ahead and dine there, choosing a romantic, secluded booth. LC ordered a slightly dirty vodka martini with blue cheese stuffed olives, his favorite. Smooth. I got a Guinness. Also smooth. The concise menu isn’t about organic produce or trendy charcuterie, but rather an updated listing of classics. Appetizers include jumbo lump crab cakes, shrimp cocktail, and fried calamari….somewhat pedestrian but don’t forget the place is in Chamblee.

Short on time, we went straight for the entrees. The duck breast caught my attention with its ginger carrot puree and caramelized pears, but alas, the duck was no longer served with those accompaniments. Now it was half a duck served over polenta. I ordered it anyway, substituting green beans for the polenta.

LC ordered the bourbon glazed salmon, which came with roasted red potatoes and green beans. I took a bite and thought it a bit fishy, as is often the case when the skin is left on. He really enjoyed it though, fishy or not.

My bird’s skin was crispy, having been flash fried after roasting, then flavored with their five spice honey glaze. It was served with roasted portobello mushroom and hericots vert….the green bean’s superior French cousin. I ate the duck’s dark and succulent leg and thigh, leaving the entire breast to take home. The dish was really quite delicious. Portobellos were earthy, hericots vert slightly crisp and perfectly seasoned.

Other entrees include osso bucco, Chilean sea bass and the quintessential filet mignon. Standard fare, but sometimes standard is good.

3829 Clairmont Road 770-234-0057

Over a month after the actual day, B and I finally got together for her birthday dinner. We decided on The Sound Table for a variety of reasons, including a chance to visit with owner Darren and savor their kickass Brussels sprouts.

The concept of dinner upstairs, drinks and dancing downstairs has shifted a bit over the last year. Food is mostly served downstairs now, certainly a less intimate setting since the DJ booth is constantly pumping out the beats at a conversation-prohibitive level.

We chatted with Darren (he is English, so one must “chat”), then took our seats at a table along the exposed brick wall. Our peppy server was cute, with tattoos and black-rimmed glasses, offering suggestions for a cocktail to start off our evening.

I chose a drink made with tequila, lime, and maraschino….sort of a fancy margarita without salt, while B ordered a glass of red wine, an obscure varietal that turned out to be rich and deep.

Our perusement of the menu uncovered several disappointing changes. Naturally, the roasted Brussels were off the menu, after all, it is Summer. I had considered trying the Spatchcock chicken, a menu mainstay since the restaurant’s inception, but it too was gone.

Regrouping, we decided to split the green salad composed of local lettuces, blue cheese, and spiced pecans. For my entree, I chose the porkchop with baby peas and greens of some sort, while B ordered the salmon special with baby carrots. For an amuse bouche, we discussed the failures of men….it was a substantial serving, full of grizzle. I needed another drink.

When the salad arrived, I was surprised to see the beautiful green lettuces covered with a creamy dressing. It wasn’t mentioned and seemed an odd pairing with the two toppings. A balsamic would have made more sense, and likely would have tasted better. B described the salad as “not special”.

Then our entrees arrived, all dainty and innocent looking. But beneath the pretty exterior was the harsh truth. My two small porkchops were cooked to the consistency of shoe leather and sat upon flavorless peas and bok choy. Bok choy? I’m rather certain that was not what the menu said. Regardless, I tried to eat a bite or two but B convinced me that I should not eat it. Christ, I hate sending food back!

While not thrilled with her selection, B managed to eat almost a third of her salmon. The skin was left on, a pet peave of mine, which made it extra-fishy tasty and smelling. Two baby carrots were the saving grace of the dish.

My sad chops were replaced by our old standby, the hanger steak, medium-rare. We chose an additional side of squash to make up for the underwhelming veggies that accompanied our entrees. Both of these dishes were winners, especially the baked squash, topped with crispy shallots. The steak is usually drizzled with a good quantity of salsa verde but this one arrived almost naked, so I asked our server for extra on the side.

We were ready for a happy ending so we tried the pistachio pot de creme with mascerated figs….amazingly delicious! We should have skipped the two entrees and went straight for the steak, squash, and two of these desserts!

On another bright note, we took a peek at the new patio out back, which used to be a renegade smoking area. Had we known, we would have chosen to sit out there where conversation wasn’t drowned out by the pulsating music.

483 Edgewood Avenue

After spending a day at Universal Studios and Islands of Adventure in Orlando riding roller coasters like two hyperactive teenagers, LC and I made an early evening of it, getting plenty of rest in preparation for our long drive home the next day.

Before we hit the highway, we had a lovely lunch with a couple of LC’s business associates at Seasons 52. It had been a long while since I dined at the health-conscious chain’s Atlanta location next to Perimeter Mall, so it would be interesting to dine here, at the restaurant’s original spot. I used to make a habit of getting their steak and blue cheese flatbread to go a few years back…..sorta like a guilt-free pizza.

We chose a table on the patio overlooking the lake, with a view of our resort on the other side, and ordered unsweetened iced tea all around. Our dining companions ordered cedar plank salmon and caramelized sea scallops, while LC chose the blackened fish tacos. It was the duck chopped salad for me….quelle surprise!

CK enjoyed his salmon, served with carrots, asparagus, and red bliss potatoes. LK gave me one of her succulent scallops and a bite of the accompanying pearl pasta….very tasty.

There were three fish tacos on LC’s plate, each wrapped in a small soft whole wheat tortilla. Low-fat taco toppings and some crisp lettuce were cool and refreshing against the spicy grilled fish. Nice flavor.

On my very first visit to Seasons 52, I ordered a duck salad. It was lunch, and it was pretty good. I remember the portion size being noticeably smaller than typical restaurant plates, thereby controlling calories. So I couldn’t resist the Maple Leaf Farms duck chop salad, with jicama , grilled pineapple, toasted almonds and a sesame dressing. The chopped ingredients were served in a clear cylinder which our server removed upon presenting my plate. Clever and somewhat over the top.

My duck wasn’t extremely tender but it was nicely seasoned with Asian spices. Crisp slices of jicama, crunchy nuts, and tart pineapple provided plenty of texture and flavor contrasts. I would have guessed the salad to have around 325 calories. Since Seasons 52 puts all the nutritional info on their website, my curiousity couldn’t be contained, so I looked it up. I was surprised to discover it had 440 calories, and a little dismayed that it contained 1338 grams of sodium….yikes! Another frightening statistic, 35 grams of sugar….what what?

Nonetheless, I couldn’t put my fork down until my plate was cleaned. The four of us found ourselves helpless when confronted with the restaurant’s signature “mini indulgences”, tiny parfait versions of classic desserts.

We each had a different sweet treat; key lime pie and lemon mousse for our friends, pecan pie with vanilla mousse for LC, and mocha macchiato for me. Coffee and chocolate combos always lure me in. Just a tiny, innocent dessert, right? OMG, imagine my shock and horror to discover this mini indulgence was loaded with 42 grams of sugar and 370 calories! Deceptive? Not really. Considering there are 500-800 calories in a single slice of regular pecan pie, their mini version comes in considerably lighter at just 320. Naturally, I chose the most fattening of all the minis on offer.

Although we started early, our lunch went on for quite some time, full of witty conversation. Gallons of iced tea later, LC and I made our way to the interstate, headed back to the big city.

Now I’m sorta craving one of those flatbreads.

7700 Sand Lake Rd. 407-354-5212

The expectations that come with a name like Tantra are hard to ignore….dining there would be a sensual experience. But just how sexy can food be? Sure, there would be raw oysters and cocktails with tantilizing names like the Forbidden Fruit. The space was dimly lit, as expected. Red velvet banquettes and chairs….check. Kama Sutra-esque artwork….check. The atmosphere was adequately sultry.

LC joined me, seated at a table in the main dining room. I was hoping for a secluded booth, perhaps with curtains, so we could feed each other succulent morsels in privacy. Starting off with specialty cocktails, I tried the Gigi, a bubbly drink made of prosecco, Gran Marnier, and blood orange juice, while he ordered a drink called Exuding, Stoli Vanilla mixed with almond milk and cinnamon. Both were yummy.

The internationally inspired menu by chef Terry Dwyer features middle Eastern flavors and spiced up American classics. LC and I started with three appetizers. Paneer and mushy pea samosas with a cilantro yogurt sauce were tasty but not quite as good as the delish chicken version at Spice Market.

He also got the short smoked salmon rolls with basil, mint, cilantro, and arugula. Their phallic shape was the sexiest part of the dish. LC enjoyed them but I thought the salmon was a little fishy.

More foreplay came in the form of foie gras. I’m in love with it. Seared and served with pear and quince chutney, brioche, and sauterne-saffron gelee, the piece was large enough to be duck rather than goose. That’s OK. I revisited my old habit of requesting a handful of undressed field greens with it to balance the richness of the foie gras. Noticing that many of their dishes contained mint, I specified only greens, no mint. However, the dreaded herb was mixed in among the greens. Nonetheless, it was my favorite dish of the evening, every rich bite matched with a sweet bit of chutney. I was particularly impressed that the brioche was dry and crisp, not greasy like it so often can be. The removal of the mint leaves was an easy task that hardly detracted from my enjoyment.

I switched up my drink to red wine as we awaited our two entrees. Basil caramelized scallops came with golden potato puree as did the strip steak, so we substituted mushroom-herb polenta with the scallops to avoid being redundant. The scallops were nicely seared but overly salty. They also came with ginger braised collard greens. Although slightly undercooked, their flavor was awesome.

The steak was cooked to the correct temperature but didn’t melt in my mouth. It required more chewing than I would have liked. Asparagus and potato puree alongside were not noteworthy.

Other entrees include chili seared Hawaiian tuna and pan roasted seabass. There isn’t anything inherently sexy about either of these dishes, but maybe if a hot guy is buying it for you it’ll turn you on.

We chose another side, the sauteed okra, to share. It would have been more sensual to feed them to each other by hand but that may have drawn unwanted attention so we ate them with our forks. We both loved this dish.

Ending on a sweet note, we sampled the ice cream sandwich…. orange honey and rosemary ice cream nestled between two chewy molasses spiced cookies. Unfortunately, the nutmeg and cloves in the cookies overpowered the subtle flavors of the ice cream.

2285 Peachtree Road 404-228-7963

We have eaten at Nacoochee Grill in Helen many times since it opened about seven years ago. It has undergone a few minor menu changes but has remained relatively true to its original concept….Southern cuisine with uptown flair.

Set inside a renovated house, Nacoochee makes guests feel at home. Light green walls and country casual decor look shabby chic to us city folks. Probably makes the rednecks scratch their heads and wonder why they didn’t fix it up a little better.

Mom ordered a glass of riesling and I got the muscadine wine by Habersham, the winery right down the street. I left with a bottle of it.

My Dad usually gets grilled or blackened fish with collards and a salad on the side, but opted for grilled shrimp instead. He’s pretty particular about his seafood. His shellfish have to be thoroughly cooked until opaque. I tend to agree, I don’t like the weird texture of undercooked shrimp or lobster. Naturally, his shrimp were a little on the clear side so he sent them back to the kitchen.

Nacoochee Grill serves chicken, fish, and steaks, with an emphasis on their grilled selections, often heavy on the garlic. But don’t forget where you are….in the South. Practically everything is also available fried. Bread service varies, recently featuring cranberry scones and jalapeno cornbread or cheddar biscuits.

Mom almost always orders the Szechuan glazed salmon with a sweet potato and salad. True to form, even on her birthday.

Having had the French country salad several times for lunch I decided to order it with the addition of crab cakes for a lighter dinner. But I couldn’t resist the squash casserole which unfortunately contained more casserole than squash and was covered with cheese….way to make a vegetable unhealthy! My Mom also let me have a few bites of her sweet potato, served with cinnamon butter…..yummo.

The salad was great with field greens, pungent gorgonzola, chewy bacon, walnuts, and sliced apple. I requested it without the red onions and also substituted their house honey balsamic dressing for the bacon vinaigrette that regularly comes with the salad. Their honey balsamic dressing is delicious, so good they sell it. I was planning to buy some on this visit but they were sold out so I took home the leftover dressing from all three of our salads. Free….even better!

No desserts. I had bought a couple of pieces of hazelnut torte from Olde Bavaria Inn earlier. Regretably, they have a new supplier and it was just yellow cake with hazelnut icing….not a torte at all. It sucked.

After our enlightening educational tour of the winery with Bill, B and I chose to be seated on the beautiful deck outside at the restaurant, LeVigne, just next door to the tasting room. Views of the vineyard provided a stunning backdrop for our meal.

Chef Steven Hartman creates a special Sunday Supper menu each week. The restaurant serves lunch and its regular menu the rest of the week. On our visit the menu was a collection of small plates, ranging in price from $7 to $14.

Me and B are city chicks. We get the small plate concept. But this place is in Dahlonega. I don’t know if most diners here understand that a menu item described as short ribs at $14 isn’t a substantial entree. Maybe I’m just not giving them enough credit. Or perhaps Chef Steven Hartman is a touch out of his element here.

For a Sunday evening, the restaurant was far from packed, but there were quite a few tables occupied, especially outside.

We continued with more of the wine we had tried during the tasting, the Tormaresca from Italy, and proceeded to order two of the smaller plates to start. B was determined to try the Columbia River salmon tartar with chicharones, Meyer lemon, and red ribbon sorrel. Fancy sounding but when it came out B was perplexed about the sprinkling of crunchy stuff on top of the raw chopped salmon. It was the chicharones. They had no flavor but did provide textural interest. The dish was heavy on lemon for me, but I am not a salmon lover anyway.

Pea soup was a vibrant green matching the lush landscape of the vineyard. It’s flavor was unfortunately mediocre, the worst part being the mitake mushrooms on top. Seems like someone forgot to reconstitute these. Have you ever eaten dried mushrooms? I have. Difference is, these have no hallucinogenic effects. Too bad!

Chef Hartman does have my favorite, foie gras, on the menu but it is unfortunately prepared au torchon so I didn’t even go there. Instead we opted for the scallop, the Painted Hills beef short ribs, and the moulard duck breast.

The short rib was the most substantial of the trio. It’s hard to fuck up short ribs but I didn’t like the sauce on this dish and it was seriously salty. The sunchoke puree, asparagus, and morel mushrooms did little to balance it out. B really liked the scallop. I let her have most of it as it too was drowned in salt. The presentation was certainly beautiful, though, with its artichoke puree, bright radishes, and rainbow trout roe to garnish (maybe the roe added the extra saltiness?).

Cooked medium and served atop creamed leeks, fiddlehead ferns, and orange confit, the duck was my favorite dish of the three. Personally I wouldn’t pair citrus with duck but rather a sweeter fruit. What I really liked was the restraint used with the salt shaker.

After the cheese and charcuterie at the wine tasting followed by the five small plates, we still had enough room for a little dessert. We ordered the pear frangipane tart and the blueberry clafoutis. Both servings were huge compared to the savory dishes.

Served warm with vanilla ice cream, the rustic pear tart was absolutely delicious! I got turned on to clafoutis at Trader Joe’s. Somewhere between a custard and a cake, with fruit, they have a frozen cherry one that you bake at home. Although three times the size of the Trader Joe’s dessert, LeVigne’s version was fantastic, topped with sauce Romanoff and some whipped cream.

The two desserts turned out to be the best dishes of the meal. I needed the sugar-high to counteract the sleepy effects of a whole day of wine so I could find my way out of the Montaluce maze. And it was dark too. They don’t believe in street lights in small towns.

With B’s navigational assistance we made it back to GA400 and back to the city!

A few days ago I found myself at Top Flr once again. TL met me at the bar where we shared some laughs and a few glasses of wine….Easton zin for me and a cab for her.

And, of course, we ate. Although the menu has undergone a few tweaks recently, I am still very familiar with most of the dishes from starters to entrees. We decided to share the white bean hummus. Served with toasted pita triangles and a dish of huge bright green olives and tiny nicoise, the hummus was a delicious start and remains one of their most popular menu items.

But I always forget how totally awesome their mussels are! I had them the very first time I visited with d years ago, and have had them on numerous occasions since. I ordered them as my entree Thursday with a side of crispy spaetzle with mushrooms. Bathed in a sublime coconut milk and soy broth, the mussels were particularly fat. A huge chunk of ciabatta waited to sop up every last drop of the broth.

It was hard not to order the mac ‘n’ cheese, but when asked, PLB recommended the spaetzle. Being a German chick I had to try it. A medley of mushrooms and roasted shallots lent an earthy element to the rich pasta.

TL chose light and healthy gazpacho and salmon.

As I polished off the last lonely shellfish, I finally handed over the long-awaited article to PLB, as promised, but not before he bet me a thousand dollars that I forgot to bring it. In lieu of the cash he offered two seats at the dinner party on May 1st in Piedmont Park. Even though they are technically only worth $190, they may prove to be priceless.