Hot Dish Review

Change is good, but it’s good to know some things never change. Often, when restaurants “improve” a recipe, they ruin its integrity. Surin’s beef salad is an old favorite. BH and I used to get it to go while at work, taking a break from the rigors of designing.

Last week I had a craving for it and stopped by Surin on North Highland for an order to go. I always request it without cucumbers and with a side of rice to soak of the spicy juice under the lettuce leaves.

Thin slices of beef are arranged on top of chopped romaine, with red onion, scallions, tomato wedges and cilantro. It is a traditional dish, one of only a few Surin actually makes quite spicy….as good as ever!

Nacoochee Grill is one of those restaurants where I’ve eaten dozens of times. It is located in Helen, Georgia, where my parents live part-time and at least one of them has accompanied me on each of those visits. Sometimes a friend of mine, or theirs, joined us, but my last meal there was with LC on our way back to Atlanta from Lake Burton.

We were passing right through downtown Helen at dinner time so I talked him into going to Nacoochee. The last time we went to Helen we tried to eat there, but the wait was an hour so we opted to go elsewhere. But on a Sunday night we had better luck….if you can call it that.

I like to sit in the original dining room on the right, a space with lots of windows in this renovated old house. This time, however, they sat us in the brightly lit room on the left. The downhome atmosphere seemed to be lacking in this somewhat sterile room.

A look at the menu brought more disappointment. The new owner had changed the menu, taking off many signature dishes and adding pedestrian crap like chicken wings. Sure, I understand the redneck appeal of wings, but Nacoochee was the one restaurant in town that had elevated itself to serve “cuisine”.

There used to be fantastic entrees like jerked mahi mahi with mango salsa and Asian glazed duck. Each entree was served with a choice of two sides, including Southern favorites like collard greens and baked sweet potatoes. We always got a salad as one side, served with their amazing honey balsamic dressing.

Well, now the entrees only come with one side. Thankfully, they still make their signature house dressing, but the salad is a fourth the size. LC had one with his blackened tilapia, but now the entrees only come with one side, so his piece of fish sat alone on the big plate, save for an XL serving of green tomato salsa. Just sad. However, the fish was seasoned and cooked perfectly over their live fire grill.

But first, we ordered an appetizer, something me and my parents never do. LC wanted to try the grits fritters, a combination of grits and cheese lightly breaded and fried, then finished with a drizzle of mustardy sauce. They were surprisingly not greasy, the crisp shell holding a sublime and creamy filling.

Another old favorite was the French country salad. I’ve had it often for lunch with my Mom. Field greens with blue cheese, walnut halves, onions (which I remove), and big chunks of chewy bacon, with bacon vinaigrette. I decided to have it for dinner, topped with grilled shrimp.

The plate of leafy field greens was nearly as big as before, topped with plenty of blue cheese crumbles. Two skewers of flavorful, plump grilled shrimp distracted me so I didn’t notice the lack of bacon until it was too late. Tiny bits of walnuts didn’t compare to the big halves that used to adorn this salad. On the contrary, there was no shortage of raw onion which I failed to have left off. House honey balsamic dressing was as good as ever.

Knowing what Nacoochee Grill used to be, and what it is now, just makes me sad. I think it’s called sellin’ out.

7277 South Main Street, Helen 706-878-8020

After a day out on the boat on Lake Burton, LC and I ventured down the mountain to the little town of Clayton.

The receptionist at the spa had given LC a laundry list of activities while I was getting a massage, including hiking to the falls (check), and driving into Clayton for dinner (check). She recommended three places. We found two, located on a quaint but cool little strip and debated outside for a moment, when a man outside overheard us and said Zeppelin’s was the place to go. He happened to be the chef, and ironicly the former chef of the other place.

We stepped into the dim bar, leading into a small dining room with light wood tables, warm lighting, fresh flowers on each table, and brightly painted walls covered with framed album covers from the 70′s. The atmosphere was a retro psychadelic, with a young hipster staff.

We settled into a cushy banquette along the wall and ordered water. Enough beer already! I had read the specials on the board outside and thought the seafood chowder sounded good. Two cups, please. White broth with baby shrimp, clams, and sliced potatoes was deceivingly light.

LC’s been on a salad kick, doesn’t matter if it’s a fried chicken salad with hollandaise dressing, he still thinks the word “salad” implies that it’s healthy. Zeppelin’s Buck Creek Salad sounded fantastic, romaine with blue cheese and pecans, drizzled with Cappy’s special dressing made with dates, figs, and raisins. I love dried fruit in salads and assumed the dressing would be a vinaigrette with pieces of the chopped fruits. However, it turned out to be precisely as described….thick, pasty, and sugary. I wasn’t thrilled to find the unmentioned croutons among the greens either. It was a cloyingly sweet start. Needless to say, LC liked it.

Since we arrived around 9:00pm they no longer were serving the pastas and entrees. Hell, they’d go out of business in the city but I guess country folk like to eat before the sun goes down. Luckily, they were still serving their flatbread pizzas, with several combinations to choose from, but being difficult I decided to make up my own with ricotta, caramelized onions, black olives and Canadian bacon.

When it was delivered to our table, I immediately noticed the pizza’s overabundance of cheese and the fact that the onions were raw instead of caramelized. There was so little Canadian bacon that it looked like they had dropped a few of the tiny cubes on it accidentally.

The flatbread’s crust was thin and crispy, and would have remained so with less cheese. I liked the subtle flavor and texture of the ricotta beneath the layer of molten mozzarella. Although the flatbread was only about a 12″ square, we couldn’t even finish half. We took the remainder home for lunch the next day.

Zeppelin’s is the kind of place I would probably visit frequently if I lived in Clayton, but that, my friend, will never ever happen.

88 N. Main Street, Clayton, GA 706-212-0101

LC and I got a late start on Friday, driving to Lake Burton in the North Georgia mountains for a weekend get-away. Rather than making the trek all the way up to the condo only to have to drive back down for dinner, we stopped at the restaurant at LaPrades Marina where LC’s uncle’s boat is stored.

It’s called The Chophouse, an upscale open-air restaurant and bar made of rough-hewn timbers and huge log supports. The place barely escaped the F4 tornado that swooped down the valleys and up the mountains in the area, cutting a path of destruction that visible on land and from the lake.

We chose a couple of seats at the bar, taking in the tranquil scenery and chilling out with a nice cold beer. The weather was perfect, just prior to sunset. Although we had snacked on veggie chips on the drive, we were both famished, so we started off with an appetizer special. Described as BBQ chicken flatbread, it was also topped with smoked gouda, caramelized onions, and basil. Sounds sorta like California Pizza Kitchen’s infamous concoction. However, there was no hint of BBQ (thankfully), but the pizza was sauced with a rather garlicky pesto. I know my smoked gouda and I dare say it was not smoked. Despite these issues, it was a tasty starter.

Moving on we decided to split the double cut pork chop with a sweet potato on the side. I ordered a glass of red wine, a rare choice in the Summer. A simple salad came with the meal. The chop was dressed with blackberry fig sauce and crumbles of blue cheese, a winning combination. Accompanying veggies, cauliflower and corn, were entirely flavorless, but the 1 3/4″ thick chop was surprisingly juicy and tender, with a subtle smokiness. And as it should be, after all, this is a chophouse!

We would end up at The Chophouse every day, stopping in for an appetizer and drink after our boat excursion on Saturday and for brunch on Sunday. Steak and cheddar spring rolls came with a remoulade and BBQ sauce, neither of which I liked, but the snack gave us enough energy to make it back up the mountain to get ready for dinner.

More on brunch later….

1488 Highway 197, North Clarkesville 706-947-0010

On our recent visit to Six Flags, me, LC and his daughter rode everything from the Georgia Scorcher to Goliath, my favorite roller coaster on the planet! We were exhausted, hungry, and thirsty.

And we’d had enough of amusement park food, despite the yumminess of the burger and fries we scarfed down at lunch. Back in my neighborhood we stopped by Diesel, one of a handful of places I would dare enter all sweaty and without makeup, my pants still damp from Thunder River.

Little T wasn’t too excited until I told her about their amazing sweet potato fries. I was looking forward to an ice cold beer and their kickass spinach salad topped with a fried green tomato slice, boiled eggs and bacon (see photo from last post). LC was in the mood for the spicy Creole shrimp.

Once seated, however, I realized that many of our favorites had been taken off the menu, replaced by dishes I didn’t want. So we ordered some beers and relaxed in the heat of the Summer, too tired to get up and go elsewhere.

At least the sweet potato fries remained and little T ordered them, along with a basket of corn dog poppers. LC almost went with his standard hot wings until I persuaded him to try the chili that had piqued his interest. Add an order of fried pickles and he was happy.

As for me, I was screwed. I was craving salad so I tried the wedge, with blue cheese, tomatoes, and bacon. I hate iceberg lettuce, romaine’s white trash cousin, but there were few options. Our tattooed server, who is always awesome, delivered it sans bacon. Not her fault, but hell, that’s the only reason I ordered it! It was crisp and refreshing, but lacked the creativity of the spinach salad.

I ate plenty of little T’s sweet potato fries too, and tried LC’s chili which was a high octane combo of beans, ground beef, and plenty of spice, topped with melted cheese. It was fatty and delicious, packing quite a pleasant punch. We were stuffed.

Other menu additions included a section of meat and two sides. Heavy choices like meatloaf just didn’t make sense given the season. By the way, they haven’t updated the menu on the website in ages, so you won’t see any of the new dishes or a lot of the old ones, for that matter.

We still like the place. It’s laid back, nearby, and has a patio, but I’m still craving that spinach salad.

870 N. Highland Avenue 404-815-1820

As promised, here are a few words about my recent business lunch at Ted’s Montana Grill….with the same group of eight that dined at Marlow’s Tavern the next day. I was surprised at how many of them had never tried bison, but several of them did at my suggestion (hello! I am a food critic, right?).

I, on the other hand, had just returned from Memorial Day weekend festivities at Lake Lanier, where burgers and hot dogs dominated every dining experience, so I was ready for something else….anything else.

Bison burgers at Ted’s are delicious. I like to top the low-fat bison patty, cooked medium, with cheese, bacon, and avocado, effectively making it more caloric than a sack full of Big Macs. But I only eat half the bun, so that should count for something.

The first one I ever had was at this very restaurant, the third to open in Turner and McKerrow’s empire. I crashed the media opening, interviewing both owners seated at one of the booths along the wall. I’ll never forget when a server brought out a big slab of medium-rare buffalo and the three of us stabbed it with our sleely knives. I went on to eat a juicy, sloppy bison burger topped with gobs of melted pepper-jack cheese, guacamole and caramelized onions….a magical combination. Later, Ted commented that, and I quote, “we’re like a juggernaut, no one can stop us now!” It’s one of my favorite stories ever (although not the whole story….)

LC started the table off with a couple of gut busting appetizers, the homemade chips and onion rings. Simply house-cut deep fried potatoes with a ranch dip, the chips failed to impress. The onion rings were more impressive if only for their enormous size (yes, it does matter, silly!), although they were a bit on the greasy side.

On this occasion I ordered the steak salad, a gargantuan bowl of field greens topped with sliced Angus sirloin, medium-rare, blue cheese crumbles, smoky chunks of bacon, and quartered tomatoes, drizzled with a sweet balsamic glaze and topped with crispy fried onion straws. Again, just because it’s called a salad doesn’t mean it’s good for you. The balsamic glaze, which I ordered on the side, was the consistency of thick maple syrup, likely with as much sugar. It was a great combination of flavors but it’s hard to go wrong with bacon and blue cheese involved. Where this salad failed was the steak, which was tough and sinewy. Not easy to eat like a lady in front a bunch of guys with chunks of unedible beef in my mouth.

LC ordered some sort of sandwich, but like me, could not stomach another burger. The fellas that tried the bison all commented that it was tasty. Truth is, it doesn’t really taste much different than beef to me, but it is generally leaner, making it less juicy.

Ted’s Montana Grill never uses frozen products. Everything is made fresh daily. I admire their commitment to preserving the environment, using recycled and recyclable products whenever possible. In fact, they even re-introduced the paper straw!

Ted was right all those years ago. Now with 46 locations nationwide, Ted’s Montana Grill has stayed true to their vision to serve high quality all-American food to, well…..all Americans!

(BTW, in case you’re not an Elvis fan, TCB stands for takin’ care of business)

5165 Peachtree Parkway @ The Forum in Norcross 678-405-0305

Friday night LC and I found the dining room at JCT Kitchen jam packed, despite the torrential downpour and severe thunderstorm warning. We had an evening to ourselves and wanted to enjoy a nice adult meal at a cool place.

Surprisingly, I had never made it to JCT before. It was one of the first restaurants to lure the trendy dining crowd to this somewhat industrialized neighborhood. Everything I had heard was positive so I was excited to give it a go.

The space is open, exuding warmth and simplicity, much like its neighbors Quinones Room and Baccanalia in the same complex. Across the way is the White Provisions building home to culinary star Abattoir and right next to the original Yeah! Burger.

Seated across from each other at a two-top along the wall, LC commented that conversation was nearly impossible, given the constant chatter from tables nearby. It was true, the atmosphere was anything but intimate. We would have preferred the patio had the weather cooperated.

We started with cocktails from their creative list, utilizing spirits like bitters, bourbon and rye, which has become rather de rigeur for upscale trendy restaurants these days. I was excited to see a sloe gin fizz on the list, taking me back to my childhood when my parents hosted card games and my Mom made this drink by the pitcher.

After delivering our cocktails, our server read off an entire menu’s worth of specials. I almost stopped him, having already decided on the bacon wrapped pork loin, when he said the word “duck”. The game had instantly changed. It was a breast and confit, I assumed a leg, with an orange champagne sauce served with sauteed peppers….a weird pairing but he had me at “duck”.

But first we wanted to sample a couple of starters, the “angry” mussels and the bacon wrapped figs with blue cheese. We found both dishes to be very impressive. The figs were not baked but rather raw, sliced in half with a thick strip of chewy bacon intertwined among the halves, which rested in an intensely sharp blue cheese sauce that provided the appropriate balance to the dish. A smattering of toasted almonds added a fun crunchy element.

A medium-sized bowl of mussles arrived, steaming in their aromatic broth flavored with peppered bacon, serano chilis, and onion. Although small, the shellfish were great. I especially enjoyed dipping the crusty rustic bread in the spicy broth. We loved ‘em!

When our server checked in I switched to prosecco. LC ordered the shrimp ‘n’ grits and I went for the duck, of course. His dish was richer than the Kennedys, grits engulfed in cheeses and butter, topped with shrimp and a battered and deep fried poached egg. A week’s worth of calories and fat, but decadently delicious.

My duck, however, was not exactly what I expected. Yes, the breast was nicely displayed with a crispy skin. Based upon our server’s description, I was expecting a leg confit, but instead the breast was served on a mound of shredded confit, seasoned with the orange champagne sauced described, creating a concoction which sort of reminded me of BBQ. The oily, crispy, gaminess of the confit was entirely lost. I wasn’t thrilled about the peppers to begin with and they did little to elevate the entree.

An unexpected favorite of the evening was the side dish of corn succotash that LC ordered. Bathed in butter, it was the epitome of Summer in the South. Ironically LC had actually changed his order to the squash, but it was a happy mistake.

We decided to forego edible dessert in favor of the liquid variety upstairs at JCT Bar. An acoustic guitarist entertained the crowd of thirty-somethings inside as the drizzle continued outside. A train chugged past as we headed to the car, anxious to get home and work off the surplus calories.

1198 Howell Mill Road 404-355-2252

Baseball is more than just sport. It has proven to be a pivotal force in the history of our country, putting African Americans in positions of adoration and respect at a time when discrimination was commonplace.

Working closely with the Atlanta Braves, my company was invited to attend the Major League Baseball Beacon Awards that took place on May 14th at the Omni’s Grand Ballroom. The Civil Rights Game was played the following day at Turner Field.

This year the award was given to Ernie Banks, Carlos Santana, and Morgan Freeman, three men that have made a difference in promoting civil rights throughout their lives. LC and I made our way to our table where a salad awaited each guest’s arrival. Wine was poured by attentive servers.

Desserts were already presented, providing a temptation throughout the ceremony. Or perhaps it was the proverbial carrot dangling in front of us, intended to keep us awake for numerous speeches. Unfortunately, the facility was air-conditioned to a fridgid 55 degrees, making all the ladies wearing dresses shiver uncomfortably the entire time. If that didn’t keep us awake, nothing would, not even the promise of sugar.

Dressed with a slightly sweet citrus vinaigrette, I was very impressed with the salad composed of field greens, poached pear, herbed goat cheese, and candied pecans. The greens were mostly frissee….my favorite!

Every civil rights leader made an appearance, from Rev. Al Sharpton to Rev. Jesse Jackson. But it was keynote speaker Rev. Joseph Lowery who’s words were both inspiring and entertaining.

Beatifully presented entrees arrived, seared beef tenderloin served with potatoes au gratin and sauteed haricot verts and baby carrots. Serving beef to hundreds of people is tricky at best. Some like it rare, some like it well, but everyone likes it their way. So how is it possible to make a beef dish that will please a crowd? Make sure the meat is tender! This thick cut was well-done yet juicy. Accompanying sides paired nicely.

When we finally made it to dessert, I was somewhat disappointed. Creme fraiche topped with fresh berries filled a cup made of white and milk chocolate. Although it was pretty, the dessert’s downfall was the overpowering flavor of lemon in the creme fraiche which didn’t work with the chocolate and berries.

From the diverse attendees to the well-executed dinner, the event was a success, but it would have been much more enjoyable if I was wearing a parka.

Weeks after our drive back from Kentucky, I am finally getting to the food. Derby parties consisted of plenty of liquor and the ubiquitous BBQ. Dry rubbed or smoked, BBQ was present at practically every meal, from the sandwiches at Churchhill Downs to the graduation party we attended right before hitting the road.

Not that the BBQ wasn’t delicious. We had amazing ribs, tender pulled pork and juicy chicken slathered in mustardy sauce. But folks that know me know that BBQ is not at the top of my list.

On our way back to Atlanta, LC and I stopped for dinner at O’Charley’s somewhere in Tennessee. Another thing I’m not a fan of….national restaurant chains. But at least we’d have the option to eat something other than BBQ!

Having stopped at an off-track betting place on the Kentucky border where LC won a couple of grand, we were running late, so we took a seat at the bar in hopes of getting a quick meal. We didn’t even order any drinks.

The menu at O’Charley’s doesn’t hold any great surprises. Its choices, like potato skins and spinach artichoke dip, are pedestrian yet somehow comforting as well.

LC decided on the cedar planked tilapia with broccoli cheese casserole on the side. A special appetizer of chicken tortilla soup was half price, so he got that to start. I ordered the California chicken salad, a dish that has become somewhat standard, even at chains. Made with grilled chicken on field greens and romaine, it was topped with blue cheese crumbles, dried cranberries, candied pecans, mandarin oranges and strawberries. Fruit overkill. LC had the strawberries and mandarins for dessert.

His soup was a tasty bowl of sodium. The “healthy” fish entree was slathered with butter and the broccoli, of course, was baked with cheese, cream, and butter. Vegetables just aren’t worth a darn without cheese, right? Despite the butter, it probably was the least artery clogging dish on the menu.

Honestly, my salad was really good, although I’m pretty sure the chicken was not organic. The greens were fresh and crisp and the contrast of tart cranberries and sweet candied pecans has become a classic.

I can’t say I’d choose O’Charley’s in the city limits, given the numerous authentic restaurants, but it was a good choice on the road.

Shortly after arriving home on my 9 1/2 hour flight from Frankfurt, LC and I were sitting on the patio at Diesel, enjoying the gorgeous weather, some refreshing beer, and some good food.

Weary of brot und wurst, I needed to refuel on some good ol’ American, starting off with a Miller Lite….can’t get more American than that!

Having already had breakfast, lunch, and dinner on European time, I found myself back in the states in the early afternoon, confusing my mealtime clock. No worries, LC and I would get a few items to share, mix ‘n’ match, like we always do.

The restaurant’s close proximity to my house, plus its spacious patio and laid-back vibe, make it an easy choice. Not to mention, we’ve had some pretty darn tasty food here. A dozen hot wings and sweet potato fries have become our standard order, to which I added the spinach salad.

A big bowl of fresh spinach came out first, topped with bacon, mushrooms, boiled eggs, candied walnuts, and a fried green tomato. It was a brilliant composition of sweet and salty, crunchy and chewy. We both loved it, although there was too much breading on the tomato.

More beer was ordered as we relaxed, leisurely eating the spicy wings and crispy, sweet fries. Happily, I got my second wind. Was it time for dessert? Almost. But first LC wanted to get an order of the BBQ shrimp, swimming in a spicy Cajun broth served with bread for dipping. They were good but I was full so he polished them off.

Now it was time for dessert!