Hot Dish Review

After three days at Churchill Downs, what more could a girl want than to stop at the casino and off track betting parlor on the way out of town? Having lunch there was just a bonus.

LC likes to make a pit stop at Kentucky Downs on our way home from Louisville, turning what could be a brief six hour drive into an all-day trip. We arrived right at lunchtime and were surprised to find the place completely renovated….and packed. Where there used to be blackjack tables there are now slot machines.

When it comes to gambling, I’m more of a spectator than participator. I’ve been to Vegas literally dozens of times without a single quarter going into a slot. LC, on the other hand, loves betting on the horses. There is, however, a distinct difference between this type of gambling and playing the slots. Betting on horses requires skill, not just luck.

We took a table, one of those traditional wood-grain laminate motel room dinette kind, in the new non-smoking section in front of eight flat screens, each with a different track, and waited for the lone server to come by to take our order. There was a set menu offered, with your choice of soup and sandwich, with a salad and baked potato. Rather fancy if you ask me! LC had the cheddar brocoli soup and the reuben while I tried the chili and grilled ham and cheese.

It was delivered like a three course meal, first the soup, then salad, then entree. My chili contained both meat and beans and had enough kick to keep my eyes open. LC was too distracted by his betting to actually taste his soup, using it later to flavor his baked potato. The salad was fresh and crisp, surprisingly not iceberg.

Both of our sandwiches were piled high with meat and cheese, then grilled. A little greasy, but perfectly acceptable considering our location. Baked potatoes were wrapped in foil, ready to be topped with to-go containers of sour cream and margarine….or soup, whichever the case may be.

We washed it all down with Miller Lites and continued betting until the funds ran dry.

Atlanta is ethnically diverse, with expanding Asian and Latino populations, bringing with them authentic cuisines from Vietnam to Brazil. Yet, there are many countries and cultures that are still under-represented. Only a handful of Ethiopian restaurants are available for adventurous eaters in Atlanta and even fewer Moroccan restaurants featuring the unique dishes from that North African country.

Imperial Fez is a fine dining experience. Entering the dimly lit space in Buckhead feels like stepping into an exotic fantasy, with ornate tapestry fabrics decorating the walls, ceiling and cushions. Guests were seated on the low benches along the walls and in legless chairs just slightly elevated from the carpeted floor. Mosaic glass lanterns puncuated the draped fabric giving it the look of a sheik’s tent in the dessert.

Some Moroccan dishes are influenced by the nearby Mediterranean featuring black olives, cucumbers, preserved lemon, and chickpeas, while others combine unusual spices like cumin, cinnamon, ginger and garlic to create dishes that are both sweet and savory like the traditional b’stella. Imperial Fez serves it third in a five course feast, filling the pastry with ground Cornish hen and nuts, then blanketing it with powdered sugar.

Just like the belly dancers’ routines, the meal itself is carefully choreographed. Warm water is poured over your hands before bread and thick crackers called Fekkas are delivered, used to scoop up your first course, a sublime lentil soup. Guests are instructed to eat with their right hand, but forks are provided for those set in their American ways.

Perhaps it was the intense burgundy decor of the restaurant or the promise of rich and spicy flavors that made red wine seem like an appropriate drink selection. I chose the fruit sangria while LC surprisingly decided on the Moroccan red wine, which I fully intended to drink. This sangria, served without ice, was unlike any I have had before, with a distinctive cinnamon flavor, and a strong note of rum.

Once we had finished our soup, our server brought out a large square plate with a sampling of colorful Moroccan salads. Pickled carrots, pureed eggplant, and mashed chickpeas, were among our favorites, providing an excellent means by which to devour the remaining crispy fekkas. I was especially excited to try chef Rafih’s signature red harissa, an intensely hot chili sauce, which came out with the salads. A sweet dish made of julienned carrot, raisins, and pineapple was described as a palate cleanser to be eaten after the salads. I ate it hoping to extinguish my lips on fire!

At this point our hunger had disappeared, much like the intrigueingly sweet and savory b’stella that came out next. Chef and owner Rafih Benjelloun joined us briefly. I ordered another sangria as I polished off the rest of LC’s wine. We tried to stop nibbling on bread so we would have room for our entrees.

Intending to share our selections, I ordered the Cornish hen tajine baked with honey, ginger and saffron and topped with apricots, raisins, sweet onions and roasted almonds and LC tried the lamb shank m’choui roasted with cumin, garlic, paprika, and accented with exotic mushrooms. Cut into managable pieces, the meat fell off the little chicken’s bones and into the fragrant sauce. I scooped up delectable bites with my fingers. Meanwhile, LC preferring a more civilized approach was using his fork and knife to cut pieces of lamb. Hardly necessary, the meat was unimaginably tender with a rich flavor complimented by the earthiness of the mushrooms.

Our server returned to wash our hands before bringing out dessert, which was thankfully light….fruit with simple syrup and small pastries with nuts and powdered sugar. We watched the fire dancers as we sipped the sweet and soothing mint tea.

I went to bed satisfied, memories of fragrant spices and visions of belly dancers whirling in my head. When I awoke, I wondered if it had all been a dream….until I saw my fingernails, stained with saffron.

2285 Peachtree Road NE 404-351-0870

LC and I have made a habit of dining at Goin’ Coastal. It is easy, the staff is extra friendly, and the food is always satisfying. More often than not we sit at the bar and get a pound of steamed shrimp, seasoned just right, ready to peel and eat.

We’ll also get a side or two….the jalapeno cornbread pudding is my favorite. One time, LC ordered the fried pickle chips with chipotle cream sauce….he loves pickles! However, he’s on a bit of a health kick so when we stopped in last week, he got a salad special, a simple yet vibrant combination of greens, grape tomatoes, roasted yellow beets, and avocado with a delicious jalapeno vinaigrette. We split an order of sweet and buttery corn on the cob with our shrimp.

But first, an order of baked oysters in two flavors started off our casual meal. Three oysters Rockefeller topped with spinach, bacon, and parmesan cheese and three stuffed with blue crab meat and cheeses. Generally, I love seafood, but I can live without oysters.

LC loves Goin’ Coastal’s dirty vodka martinis, made with Webster’s special mix of olive juice and herbs, garnished with two blue cheese and bacon stuffed green olives. I often try one of their signature cocktails, like the awesome watermelon jalapeno margaritas we were addicted to last Summer (we still miss them!).

Lobster, crab legs, sustainably caught fresh fish and shrimp….it’s all good at Goin’ Coastal!

1021 Virginia Avenue 404-941-9117

A sad goodbye to the scene of much debauchery….
It’s hard to believe I haven’t reviewed Bluepointe until now. The restaurant is an Atlanta staple and the scene of so many memorable (and crazy!) evenings. Like crashing (former) Dallas Maverick’s Steve Nash’s private birthday bash upstairs and my own private birthday bash several years later, complete with champagne and lobster.

As I’ve said in a recent post, I’m a sucker for tradition. Or perhaps I’m merely a creature of habit. I always get the lobster at Bluepointe. In my many visits I have tried practically every dish until I discovered the lobster. Since then, I’ve been loyal to the 2lb. shellfish in curry.

The peanut crusted grouper is awesome and so are the scallops. The calamari appetizer used to be very spicy and amazing but it has become increasingly boring over the years with the predominant flavor being soy.

And ever since me and AD attended a Veuve party at Bluepointe I can’t seem to order anything else to drink there. Many bottles have been consumed since then.

My visit to Bluepointe last night was an exercise in irony. Or deja vu. I was wearing the blue dress, the same one I wore to my birthday dinner. I had champagne and lobster. And I was with LC….just a different one.

Seated at one of the more intimate tables near the bar where me and AD used to sit, LC was somewhat intoxicated and rather ravenous. I asked for a dish of the rice crackers they used to have at the bar but was disheartened to learn they no longer serve them. I would have dumped the snacks in my purse just for old time’s sake!

We started off with edamame and ordered two more appetizers to share. Wanting to try something different I chose the calamari salad. Although it has been many years, I always associate fried calamari on greens with one of my favorite neighborhood restaurants in New York called OG (Oriental Grill). Theirs was a perfectly assembled dish of impeccable field greens, fried calamari, and a slightly sweet Asian dressing.

I was impressed with Bluepointe’s version, with tempura calamari, arugula, sweet mango, crispy apple, cashews, and razor thin radish slices, lightly dressed with a subtly sweet Asian vinaigrette. A perfectly balanced composition, both in flavor and texture.

LC wanted to try the short rib wontons in umami broth. Umami is the culinary buzzword de jour, loosely translated as indescribable deliciousness. The Japanese are so cerebral. Three wontons filled with beef swam in a brown broth. Sorry, no umami, just a fistfull of salt in the overwhelmingly soy based broth. More champagne.

We had much better luck with the dependably delicious curry lobster. Served with baby asparagus, bok choy and Asian long beans in a slightly spicy yellow curry, it was as succulent as ever. The enormous lobster makes two generous entree portions. As a side, LC couldn’t resist the corn mash, yellow corn with lots of butter, which turned out to be his favorite dish of the evening.

For dessert I went back to my usual chai creme brulee. Not a fan of lemon sorbet I asked to substitute the orange sorbet which came out in a fun cube shape. The candied ginger on top of the crispy sugar really makes it special. We scarfed it down, along with another glass of champagne.

Now we were ready to dance!

Remember when the holidays were a time to relax with family and friends? That’s right….when you were a child. After that, it’s all financial hardship and stress.

Once family time was over, B and I had a chance to exchange gifts and enjoy some adult beverages and conversation. A bottle of Gloria Ferrar Brut started off the evening by my gorgeous phat tree.

Then we were off to one of our favorite spots, Top Flr, but alas, it was Monday and they were closed. B suggested another of our old haunts, Livingston, just a mile down the street. Perfect! Although chances were not good that our buddy Zeb, the chef, would be working the day after Christmas.

We had little company aside from our friendly bartender. But we were in luck to visit on Millionaire Monday, Zeb’s special two course dinner for $18 every Monday which features such rich dishes as lobster and steak. B and I decided to order one of each and create our own surf ‘n’ turf.

But first, we sipped an impressive red that was spicy and deep. A spinach salad with gorgonzola, vidalia onions was drizzled with candied bacon vinaigrette provided a simple and satisfying start.

We ordered the filet medium-rare. B requested it on the rare side and after some thought, I agreed. Best too rare than overcooked. Our plates arrived, thoughtfully kitchen split. The baby filets were unfortunately cooked medium with no rare in sight, but the lobster was perfectly poached. It was a meal that could have been decadent if it weren’t so light.

The bartender topped off our glasses as we chatted. Just then, a gentleman (and I use that term loosely) appeared at the bar. He and his new bride were apparently staying at The Georgian Terrace for their honeymoon. Dressed in a garrish pinstripe suit, he was a minister, and needed advice on what alcoholic beverage to buy for his new bride. We suggested champagne so he ordered “the cheapest one”. His ridiculous demeanor made us laugh, but it wasn’t until his departure that we noticed a flyer he had left outlining the services he offered through his business, Non-Negotiable Ministries.

Valuable services such as Prophetic Miming (who doesn’t need that?), Preaching (of course) Food Catering, and the all important Armour Bearing (WTF?), all available regardless of race, creed, or policy. What if your policy is not to hire ghetto preachers?

Best of all, his food catering business is called Fix-It Preacha. I swear. Even me and B couldn’t make that up!

(If you are interested in honing your prophetic miming skills, just contact me, I have the minister’s number.)

659 Peachtree Street NE 404-897-5000

Ditto for 2011….

There was a time when Red Lobster was almost fine dining. On weekends the lobby would be full of men wearing suits, waiting for a table with their families, their wives dressed in skirts, well-behaved children in tow.

Well, those days are gone my friend! Foul-mouthed unkempt white trash was the standard as me and my family waited for a table this Christmas Eve. Screaming kids are usually seated next to us these days, but we got lucky this time.

We used to go to fancy restaurants on Christmas Eve but one year we ended up at Red Lobster, and we’ve been going there ever since….sort of a bastardized tradition at this point.

The restaurant’s decor used to be more nautical kitsch, but they’ve toned it down a bit over the last decade. No more enormous plastic fish or nets, just dark wood walls, and tables dimly lit with dock lanterns.

Our dinner began with salads, Caesars with balsamic dressing on the side. A basket of those addictive cheddar garlic biscuits came out. We tried not to eat them, but the temptation was too great.

My Mom decided to go light and ordered the glazed salmon with broccoli. Dad got the rock lobster, shrimp scampi, and grilled shrimp. I ordered the Maine lobster, grilled scallops, and grilled shrimp combo with a baked potato on the side, although the combos now come with rice pilaf….how 1989!

I asked our server the difference between Maine and rock lobster and he said the rock could be tougher at times. However, it turns out that variety is also much larger. Oh, well. Everything was drenched in butter and cooked perfectly. My Mom’s salmon was OK. At least she didn’t leave stuffed like me and my Dad.

Sure, Red Lobster’s reputation has evolved over the years but if you can look beyond the abysmal atmosphere and unsavory fellow diners, you just might get a delicious lobster!

A lovely dinner….
Pour a glass of wine, sit back and relax folks….this is gonna take a while. Nine courses with wine pairings plus a couple of “gifts from the chef” spanned a solid four hours.

Finding the Quinones Room is somewhat of a treasure hunt….BB and I followed the signs, walked through the breezeway, and down the stairs to the door with the big Q. Neutral curtains parted to reveal an elegant seating area furnished in shades of chocolate and cream. The intimate dining room is to the right with only ten tables covered in white linens. Antique mirrors, Venetian glass chandeliers, and lacquered wood frame chairs with a vintage patina lent a quiet air of Southern moneyed aristocracy.

At first, the service seemed too serious for my taste. There was a selection of water and the delivery of four mini cheese bread sticks before our server, Rafael, introduced himself in a barely audible hush. We would be having the prix fixe menu with the wine pairings….a multi-course marathon that began with a kir royale.

Bread service arrived on a wooden skewer. Various sizes and kinds of bread, from sourdough to onion, complimented by soft, sweet cream butter.

Two mini cheese gougeres were devoured tout de suite, as well as a shot of celery root soup with red onion jam, both gifts from Chef de Cuisine David A. Carson. Little bites that packed big flavor.

Krug Grand Cuvee champagne was poured in advance of our first course. I knew it would be a crudo, something ultra-light. Atlantic blue fin tuna, sashimi style, and Kumamoto oysters were paired with tiny cubes of Asian pear, slivers of radish, the bowl decorated with droplets of shoyu, a type of soy sauce. This would be the only dish I didn’t really enjoy.

For lack of a better monicker, the “drink boy” came by with a 2005 sauternes for our next dish, a foie gras terrine. I commented to BB that I usually prefer foie gras seared. I also noted something peculiar….the drink boy once again short-poured my wine. Perhaps that is a standard practice in fine dining? To pour an almost imperceptibly short glass for the lady at the table.

A square plate came out with a square of the foie gras terrine, accompanied by three, questionably four, preparations of Fuyu persimmon and a little mound of spiced cocoa nibs. There was a persimmon puree, a dollop of persimmon preserves, and a slice of candied persimmon. I believe the streak of orange-y powder along the side was freeze-dried persimmon, but I could be wrong. Each little bite of the decadent foie gras was immaculate, with a smudge of sweet persimmon. What could make it even better you ask? Four baby popovers made with a mild cheese and the slightest hint of sweetness. Heaven.

A row of tiny Nantucket Bay scallops sat upon a cauliflower puree, each one topped with black pearls of caviar. Sauvignon blanc, fresh with hints of grapefruit, paired nicely. Rafael had loosened up as I quizzed him about his former employment. Turns out he has always worked for Quatrano and Harrison, the pair that own Baccanalia, Floataway, Abbattoir, and Star Provisions.

Loup de mer, a simple white fish, was made stunning with its toppings of earthy black trumpet mushrooms and baby potato chips made with fingerlings, all resting on a bed of melted Spring onions. Chardonnay was the obvious choice for wine.

Now things would take a turn for the rich, heavy, dark. Drink boy poured glasses of a 2007 pinot noir from Willamette Valley as the dance of service continued with unwavering steadiness. Truffled cabbage and Jerusalem artichoke provided the creamy base for a chunk of braised veal cheek, so tender it fell apart at the mere sight of my fork. But first BB and I sliced into the crispy veal sweetbreads that crowned the meat, lightly fried in a coating with a hint of nutmeg. He loves sweetbreads. If they were always this good and tender, I can see why. Although small, the braised veal was filling, containing quite a bit of fat. It was a very rich dish.

The menu listed loin of loin next. Huh? We chuckled…..was it loin of lion? Hilarious. Turns out it was venison. Louis M. Martini Reserve cabernet sauvignon was poured….still short. Glazed young vegetables like Brussels sprouts, carrots, and beets were scattered beneath two thick slices of roasted venison, cooked perfectly medium rare. Unlike the veal, there was not a speck of fat, yet the dense meat was succulent and smooth, the outside of the roast coated with a spice rub containing a hint of clove. A dollop of caramelized onion stole the show…I savored every sweet bit of it.

On to the cheese course, a segue into dessert. Cumberland, a medium bodied cheese with little holes, reminded me of fontina. It was paired with Ellijay apples, both preserved and cubed, and young arugula.

Time for dessert wine, what appeared to be a Spanish tawney. Our first dessert (yes, there were two!) was a glass cup layered with cranberries, brown sugar streusel, then toasted meringue, providing intense tanginess, crunchy sweetness, and fluffy chewiness, a crazy combo of textures.

Our final course was two dense cubes of Valrhona chocolate ganache with a small scoop of frozen chocolate custard on the side. The best part of the dessert was the thickened sweet potato puree, sprinkled with crispy chocolate nuggets.

Quinones Room lived up to the hype, the seamless execution a study in precision, both in service and in the food itself. Was it the best meal I’ve ever had? Quite possibly.

1198 Howell Mill Road 404-365-0410

A holiday rerun for your enjoyment (or disappointment, whatever the case may be):
Coming off a six year media love-fest, the guys at Muss & Turner’s, Todd Mussman and Ryan Turner, expanded to Joel’s former space, calling it Local Three. The third partner is chef Chris Hall, a self-taught cook and Atlanta native.

First, I must tell you the directions on their website are completely confusing. I was pretty sure I knew how to get there off I-75, remembering my two visits to Joel years ago. But admittedly, I have a condition I call “direction dyslexia”, so I can’t trust my instincts where directions are concerned. B was meeting me there and helped me get to the parking garage, along with a security officer. Once at the right building, we still had a hard time finding the restaurant. It was a little frustrating.

All the frustration melted away as soon as we walked into the warm and inviting space. There was no hint of its former stuffy self. Taupe and deep purple walls are a soothing backdrop to the rustic wood furnishings, a trio of pig paintings, a velvet Elvis, and soft, flattering lighting. It is gorgeous.

The trio’s sense of humor is immediately evident, not only in the kitschy decor but in the hilarious menu descriptions, like the “chicken liver mousse a.k.a. meat butter”. I love it that they don’t take themselves, or the food, too seriously.

Like at M & T’s, these boys use as much locally sourced produce and meat as possible. From the design of the space to the menu, it’s as if Abattoir and Miller Union had a precocious child. You will notice that every price on the drink menu ends in a “3″.

B and I were excited about our dining experience, having heard only good things about Local Three. We wanted to start off with a glass of red wine, both of us choosing the Guenoc Victorian Claret, described as “a Big One”…..no surprise there!

On to appetizers, we tried a couple of cheeses and two selections of charcuterie because they were made in-house by Mussman and listed under the heading “Notorious P.I.G.”. Gotta love it. Served with pear compote, honey, and crisp flatbread, I liked the presentation, and it was just perfect with the wine.

With the current battle of the Brussels sprouts in full swing, we ordered their crispy Brussels, listed under “snacks”. Stay tuned for a separate post on those.

B became fixated by the menu’s section called “Today” featuring items that are limited in quantity. In particular, she had her heart set on the salad of Hammock Hollow Farms baby Spring lettuce, radish, Blue cheese, and herb croutons. It didn’t excite me, but the salad of Winter greens on the regular “Appetizers” section certainly did. I make my own Winter greens salad so I was curious to see how Local Three’s version would compare.

A compilaton of frissee, dried apricots, cherries, raisins, toasted walnuts, and blue cheese, it was not as good as it sounded due to the salty, lackluster dressing. My salad kicks their salad’s ass. B’s greens also suffered under a over-salted dressing she described as juvenile. Both servings were large enough to share.

For soups we again chose one from “Today”, an irresistible dish called “Hot Crab on Crab Action”, Charleston she-crab soup topped with Alaskan King crab claws. If you are unfamiliar with she-crab soup, it is made with the roe from the female crab (hense she-crab), cream and sherry. The soup is usually rich and creamy but I found this version to be somewhat lighter with an abundance of crab meat, both in the soup and on top. I thought it was very good but B was not impressed.

We also ordered a soup from “Appetizers”, the creamy sweet potato soup, a disappointing puree that B compared to baby food. The smoked bacon, peanuts, and scallions on top did little to salvage it.

B tried the Chesapeake Bay wild striped bass for her entree, while I went with the grilled Cervena venison. Her fish, served with honey roasted turnips, rutabega, escarole, lemon, and dates, hit all the right notes. It was a fantastic dish.

I ordered my venison medium-rare. With black pepper spaetzle, spring Vidalia onion and huckleberry jus, it was a hearty plate. My meat was, unfortunately, on the rare side, and not as tender as one would wish for. A solid Winter dish.

Chef Hall stopped by inquiring about our meal. He’s a big dude. I’m not sure if he knew we were food writers but chances are, he would have visited either way.

B and I rarely skip dessert, this time sharing the pecan pie. My first impression was that it was more crust than filling. A few nibbles of it with the vanilla ice cream on top was more than enough sugar.

I wanted to love it, I wanted the three local pigs to wow us. No doubt, I will try Local Three again, if not only for its owners’ sense of humor and commitment to quality. To quote the menu “you can’t argue with delicious”.

But you can argue with mediocre.

3290 Northside Parkway NW 404-968-2700

L-tryptophan coma, round 2:

If you’re like me, you’ve got some leftover turkey from Thanksgiving. Who doesn’t? I bagged up individual servings and stashed them in the freezer to use on salads (instead of chicken) and for this yummy turkey salad, adapted from a recipe for curried egg salad that I found in one of my Mom’s Health magazines.

I’ve been buying the curried chicken salad at Whole Foods for years, so this is my homemade interpretation. It’s one of those recipes that you can add ingredients to taste, depending on what you have on hand:

4 oz. cooked turkey, shredded
3 tblsp. Greek yogurt
1 tblsp. finely chopped green pepper
1 tblsp. chopped celery
1/2 tsp. curry powder
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
dash of salt
1 tsp. dried cranberries (optional)

Mix it up! You could experiment with herbs too, like parsley or cilantro. Pinenuts or almonds would also add textural interest (and calories).

The first time I served it simply on a bed of field greens. But it was even better with a spinach salad dressed with red wine vinegar, olive oil, and black pepper. I’m sure it would make a fine sandwich on toasted wheat or ciabatta too!

You know how much I love the burbs. Working on the weekend in Kennesaw? Double the fun.

After a few hours of setting up a trade show display at a school on a recent Sunday, LC and I stopped by Keegan’s Public House for a bite and a brew before heading to (I kid you not) the office for more work.

Pubs are usually also sports bars, so LC’s alterior motive was to watch the end of the Falcons game. But their TV’s were placed where they were hard to see from the booths, and the bar was full of patrons.

We sat in a booth anyway and ordered two Irish car bombs, shots of Baileys and Jameson’s that are dropped into half pints of Guinness draft, then quickly consumed. My unfortunate introduction to this concoction (5 of them) resulted in my car keys being locked in my office on Christmas Eve some years ago, but that’s another story.

Today, just one car bomb would erase the last few hours and smooth out our jangled nerves. But our break time was short and food was in order. LC and I often share things, so we tried the appetizer sampler, heart disease on a platter, including 2 beef sliders, 5 hot wings, and 2 Irish Spring rolls. I tried to counteract the cholesterol with their spinach salad topped with Granny Smith apples, candied walnuts, and blue cheese, but the dressing was pure bacon grease.

Wings and blue cheese were not extraordinary….we would have liked them spicier, but it was the meager serving of celery that baffled me. Isn’t celery cheap? Can I have more than 2 tiny slivers? The fatty beef sliders were topped with melted cheese and grilled onions….delicious. I thought the Irish Spring rolls were clever, made with corned beef, cabbage, and Swiss cheese wrapped in wontons and fried, of course. Thousand island dipping sauce added to the caloric nightmare.

Other selections were standard Irish fare….shepherd’s pie, bangers and mash, fish ‘n’ chips. Another Guinness for me before we hit the road, our bellies full.

1625 Ridenhour Blvd, Kennesaw 678-213-2461