Hot Dish Review

Recently, I was asked to write a piece about the Association Verace Pizza Napoletana for the show Atlanta Eats. I interviewed an old acquaintance, Riccardo Ullio (you may have heard of him) regarding his membership in the association and soon found myself craving pizza.

When I asked him what it took to become a member, his first response was “money”. Nevertheless, Ullio passed a rigorous test to determine if his pizza met the strict guidelines, from ingredients to the final product, making his restaurant Fritti among the first in the U.S. to become a member of the prestigious association.

That was in 2004. Now Atlanta boasts a few more certified authentic pizzerias including Antico Napoletana and Double Zero Napoletana, a name referencing the super-fine wheat flour that is required to make the dough. Imported San Marzano tomatoes and bufala mozzarella must be used, although the cheese doesn’t have to come from Italy….Ullio gets his from a local artisan producer.

It was one of the first warm evenings of Spring, prompting me to suggest dinner at Fritti, with its lush patio decorated with tiny lights and a festive mural on one wall. LC and I chose a table outside, each of us starting with an appropriate beverage pairing for pizza, a Peroni.

Ullio’s pizzas are rather large, although they are considered individual servings. We decided to order two, and split an appetizer to start. Robiola fritta, almond crusted goat cheese with arugula, peppers, and olive salad sounded like fried goat cheese garnished with the remaining ingredients, when in fact, it was the opposite. Although not listed under the salad section of the menu, this dish was definitely a salad. LC wasn’t surprised. The generous plate of peppery arugula and salty olives complimented the fried discs of mild goat cheese….nice and light.

Fritti offers a large selection of authentic neopolitan pizzas, from the popular Regina Margherita simply topped with San Marzano tomatoes, bufala mozzarella and fresh basil to pies with a variety of meats and cheeses. Although I wanted to venture out, I couldn’t resist my favorite pancetta e cipolla, the standard pizza with the addition of caramelized onions and hot pepper. LC agreed to be my guinea pig and tried the quattro stagioni with cotto ham, artichokes, mushrooms, and black olives.

When visiting my grandparents in Germany, we would often visit the neighborhood pizzeria where I would always order a quattro stagioni, four seasons in English, traditionally prepared with each of the four toppings placed on the pizza separately, dividing the pie into quarters. At Fritti, one has the option of having it topped in the traditional manner or with the ingredients mixed, which is the way LC ordered it.

We polished off the salad and our first round of Peronis just as our pizzas arrived. Unlike typical American fast food pizza, toppings are more sparingly applied on Neopolitan style pizza, and the crust is both crispy and chewy. Salty pancetta was the perfect compliment to the sweet caramelized onions on my pie that I reluctantly shared with LC. Meanwhile, he was enjoying his pizza as well, allowing me one tasty slice. Both of us managed to eat half and had the remainder wrapped up to take home.

Chewy, cheesy, authentic or not, Americans love their pizza….any way you slice it!

309 N. Highland Avenue NE 404-880-9559

Sounds steamy, no? It was a cold and rainy Saturday and my neighbor LG and I had a hot date with an Italian….restaurant, that is. La Tavola is a stone’s throw from our place, but I had never visited until last weekend. Despite its longstanding reputation as Virginia Highlands’ best trattoria, my general disdain for Italian food has kept it at the bottom of my “to eat” list.

However, the recent onslaught of Northern Italian restaurants opening in Atlanta and the inevitable media dinners that followed have softened my view of this often bastardized cuisine. LG and I arrived for our reservation but didn’t make it past the front door, being seated at a two-top by the window in front. The narrow space is dimly lit and packs in tables New York style, making conversation with neighbors inevitable.

The first order of business was selecting wine, white for LG and red for me. The well-edited wine list was not mostly Italian as expected, but included a variety of wines from around the world. I asked our server to select a wine for me based upon my preference of a full-bodied peppery red. He chose an Argentinian malbec that fit the bill for $10 a glass. LG followed suit and was pleased with his selection as well.

We requested bread service and I was glad to see it served with butter and not the ubiquitous bowl of olive oil for dipping. However, the bread’s crust was rather charred. Prior to our visit I checked out the menu online, excited to try their duck breast with Brussels sprouts. Alas, it was the only entree that was missing, and my favorite vegetable was nowhere to be found either. So, I went with plan B, ordering the pork cheek appetizer and the smaller portion of the squid ink linguine with calamari.

LG tried the beet and farro salad to start followed by the Italian classic veal saltimbocca. Check out the size of that cutlet! Paired with roasted fingerlings, prosciutto, frisee, and sage, the dish was the perfect antidote for this unseasonably Wintery weather. Another glass of wine warmed us up further.

Artfully presented, the pork cheek was fork-tender, accented with a semi-sweet pancetta marmalade. This dish represents why my attitude toward Italian food is changing….no marinara here, just straightforward deliciousness.

My pasta was a composition in black and white….linguine colored black by squid ink topped with white rings of squid. Lightly dressed with Thai basil pesto and Calabrian chilies, I twirled it, slurped it, and licked the plate clean.

An apricot and bucheron tart was an interesting combination of sweet and savory, however I found the texture of the cheese somewhat off-putting in contrast to the soft fruit. I was hoping for a more rustic crust rather than its standard pie shell, but it was devoured nonetheless.

LG and I enjoyed our date with this hot Italian. Perhaps next time the weather will be hot too so we can check out the patio in the back.

992 Virginia Avenue NE 404-873-5430

During our recent stay at the exclusive Wild Heron community near Rosemary Beach, it was a bit too chilly for the water so we ventured into town. We stopped at Pier Park in PCB for some shopping and a casual lunch.

After irritating LC with numerous clothing and gift stores, it was time for a break. His mind was on margaritas so we headed towards Margaritaville, Jimmy Buffet’s successful chain and home to a variety of pedestrian Tex-Mex dishes. However, we were diverted by the recommendation of a security guard that we happened to speak with and ended up at Dick’s Last Resort, another cheesy chain with a theme park decor. There is a greeter at their door explaining that the staff’s rude banter is all in fun, as they make obnoxious paper hats and bibs for their unwitting guests, mostly drunk college kids. Their rude schtick might be funny if the staff wasn’t too stupid to pull it off effectively.

We chose a table outside, with a view of the beach across the street, and attempted to order two skinny margaritas. Not offered on the menu, our server was perplexed, but finally managed to deliver them.

My only request was that we steer clear of anything fried….hard to do at a place like this. Imagine my horror when the two appetizers chosen by LC, Little T and her cousin TT were fried pickle chips and wicked gator, fried bite sized pieces of alligator and jalapeno slices served on a bed of tortilla strips….the unfortunate result of watching Swamp People the night before.

Both fried appetizers were, not surprisingly, very greasy and served with creamy dipping sauces to put the nail in the cholesterol coffin.

However, I was pleased that everyone went along with my suggestion to share something lighter for our entree, ordering two Southwestern chicken salads. I was somewhat reluctant to have it served dressed as there was not one, but three different cream-based sauces and dressings drizzled on this dish. Standard Southwestern ingredients like black beans and corn studded heavily dressed romaine and iceberg, topped with a nicely cooked, hormone-fattened chicken breast, on a bed of tri-color tortilla strips, the same ones that accompanied the fried gator appetizer.

The name of this place is completely accurate….one should only eat there as a last resort. The cheesy decor and “entertaining” waitstaff doesn’t make up for the mediocre food.

16210 Front Beach Road @ Pier Park 850-588-0631

Italian food….it’s not my thing. But it was me that recommended Double Zero Napoletana for a group of us last week, due to its convenient location and because of my selfish craving for their authentic Neapolitan style pizza.

The cavernous space is divided by a long bar on one side and a communal table down the center with a single row of bare bulbs encased in glass above it, imparting a warm glow to the dark wood furnished dining room. Full length burgundy curtains add drama.

Our group of six met at the bar, immediately impressed by the stellar service. LC ordered a martini which was shaken furiously, creating those tiny ice particles that LC loves. Plus, they had his favorite blue cheese stuffed olives. Embarrassingly unfamiliar with Italian wines, I was thrilled to see they offered many by the half glass, so I began sampling some different varietals.

With an 8:30pm reservation, we were hoping to be seated a bit earlier, but instead were still waiting at the bar. So we decided to order a snack of butternut squash frittelle, crispy fritters filled with a creamy and slightly sweet squash puree. They were served on a smudge of caramelized onion aioli and a handful of watercress, then drizzled with lemon honey. We devoured them.

Even at 9:00pm, the restaurant was abuzz with folks enjoying good food and wine. Unsure how much longer our wait would be, LC and I ordered the pizza that I was craving, the maiale, a decadent combination of sweet and savory toppings. Braised Nueske’s bacon, mushrooms, goat cheese, garlic, fig-onion agrodolce, olive oil, vanilla salt, and fresh arugula hit all the right notes. Double Zero serves all of their pizzas whole, with scissors to cut your own slices. Love it!

As soon as our pizza arrived, however, our table was ready. The manager stopped by with a complimentary dish of the butternut squash frittelle, a peace offering for our lengthy wait. Nice.

Having perused the menu, RT, who is Italian, commented that authentic Italian food is simple, hinting that the dishes at Double Zero are a bit too complicated. Much like its Spanish influenced sister, The Iberian Pig in Decatur, I find that the menu here suffers from the same overuse of ingredients. Nevertheless, the result at both locations is deliciousness.

A prime example of this overuse of ingredients is the capesante, the seared scallops entree served with corn-arbol sauce, pearl onions, summer squash, seasonal mushrooms, crispy artichokes, and saba vinegar. Both RT and his wife CT ordered them. Each of the three scallops per dish was the size of my palm. LC and I were offered bites and agreed that it was a fantastic dish.

But first, CT had a salad composed of marinated beets, frisee, grapefruit, goat cheese, and candied pecans, dressed simply with a red wine vinaigrette. We tried it as well and found the flavors terrific.

LC and I split the osso buco entree, a roasted pork loin the size of my forearm. The menu described its accompaniments as creamed farretto with dried apricot, pork demi, and crispy parsnips. I really thought it was sweet potato puree and spaghetti squash, but having had five half glasses of red wine, you can’t really rely on my assessment. However, I do know for certain that the meat was incredibly tender.

After we polished off our entrees, the manager returned with yet another peace offering, a flute of prosecco for each of us. Although we were stuffed, I coerced LC into sharing a bowl of gelato with me, pistachio and coffee. Having eaten copious amounts of gelato in Europe, the American version is always too sweet and creamy, as was Double Zero’s, but the flavors were pleasing. It was a sweet ending to a lovely evening with friends and family.

5825 Roswell Road 404-991-3666

Atlanta is ethnically diverse, with expanding Asian and Latino populations, bringing with them authentic cuisines from Vietnam to Brazil. Yet, there are many countries and cultures that are still under-represented. Only a handful of Ethiopian restaurants are available for adventurous eaters in Atlanta and even fewer Moroccan restaurants featuring the unique dishes from that North African country.

Imperial Fez is a fine dining experience. Entering the dimly lit space in Buckhead feels like stepping into an exotic fantasy, with ornate tapestry fabrics decorating the walls, ceiling and cushions. Guests were seated on the low benches along the walls and in legless chairs just slightly elevated from the carpeted floor. Mosaic glass lanterns puncuated the draped fabric giving it the look of a sheik’s tent in the dessert.

Some Moroccan dishes are influenced by the nearby Mediterranean featuring black olives, cucumbers, preserved lemon, and chickpeas, while others combine unusual spices like cumin, cinnamon, ginger and garlic to create dishes that are both sweet and savory like the traditional b’stella. Imperial Fez serves it third in a five course feast, filling the pastry with ground Cornish hen and nuts, then blanketing it with powdered sugar.

Just like the belly dancers’ routines, the meal itself is carefully choreographed. Warm water is poured over your hands before bread and thick crackers called Fekkas are delivered, used to scoop up your first course, a sublime lentil soup. Guests are instructed to eat with their right hand, but forks are provided for those set in their American ways.

Perhaps it was the intense burgundy decor of the restaurant or the promise of rich and spicy flavors that made red wine seem like an appropriate drink selection. I chose the fruit sangria while LC surprisingly decided on the Moroccan red wine, which I fully intended to drink. This sangria, served without ice, was unlike any I have had before, with a distinctive cinnamon flavor, and a strong note of rum.

Once we had finished our soup, our server brought out a large square plate with a sampling of colorful Moroccan salads. Pickled carrots, pureed eggplant, and mashed chickpeas, were among our favorites, providing an excellent means by which to devour the remaining crispy fekkas. I was especially excited to try chef Rafih’s signature red harissa, an intensely hot chili sauce, which came out with the salads. A sweet dish made of julienned carrot, raisins, and pineapple was described as a palate cleanser to be eaten after the salads. I ate it hoping to extinguish my lips on fire!

At this point our hunger had disappeared, much like the intrigueingly sweet and savory b’stella that came out next. Chef and owner Rafih Benjelloun joined us briefly. I ordered another sangria as I polished off the rest of LC’s wine. We tried to stop nibbling on bread so we would have room for our entrees.

Intending to share our selections, I ordered the Cornish hen tajine baked with honey, ginger and saffron and topped with apricots, raisins, sweet onions and roasted almonds and LC tried the lamb shank m’choui roasted with cumin, garlic, paprika, and accented with exotic mushrooms. Cut into managable pieces, the meat fell off the little chicken’s bones and into the fragrant sauce. I scooped up delectable bites with my fingers. Meanwhile, LC preferring a more civilized approach was using his fork and knife to cut pieces of lamb. Hardly necessary, the meat was unimaginably tender with a rich flavor complimented by the earthiness of the mushrooms.

Our server returned to wash our hands before bringing out dessert, which was thankfully light….fruit with simple syrup and small pastries with nuts and powdered sugar. We watched the fire dancers as we sipped the sweet and soothing mint tea.

I went to bed satisfied, memories of fragrant spices and visions of belly dancers whirling in my head. When I awoke, I wondered if it had all been a dream….until I saw my fingernails, stained with saffron.

2285 Peachtree Road NE 404-351-0870

Now making a weekly appearance in my lunchtime repetoire:
This is one of the best salads ever! The original recipe comes from the February 2009 issue of Food & Wine Magazine. I still have it bookmarked, the pages sticky from making the dressing dozens of times, although by now, I’ve committed it to memory, and made a few changes. Here is my version:

BITTER GREENS WITH FIGS AND FOG

1/2 small head radicchio, finely shredded
1 Belgian endive, thinly sliced crosswise
1 C. baby arugula
1 1/2 oz. cooked organic chicken, cut up
7-10 whole unsalted almonds
1 dried calmyrna fig, chopped
1 oz. Humboldt Fog goat cheese, cubed

DRESSING (this is a double recipe, you’ll want extra!)

3 tblsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 tblsp. fig vinegar (or raspberry)
3 tblsp. sugar free apricot preserves
1 shallot, very thinly sliced
1 tsp. dried rosemary leaves
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
freshly ground pepper and salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Toast the raw almonds on a cookie sheet for 10 minutes, and let cool, then coarsely chop. (I make a big batch to save time, also great served with cheeses).

Let the sliced shallots marinate in the vinegar for 10 minutes. Meanwhile add the oil, rosemary, and thyme to a small saucepan. Heat over moderate heat for 2 minutes until it sizzles. Stir in the apricot preserves and heat until melted, about 1 minute. Add the shallots and vinegar and cook an additional minute. Season with salt and pepper.

Toss the lettuces, warm chicken, figs, and almonds in a large bowl and drizzle the warm dressing, to taste. Top with chunks of the cheese. (Note: the original recipe calls for regular goat cheese, see photo in magazine below)

This recipe makes one huge salad or 2-4 servings as a side, in which case I add more almonds, figs, and cheese but omit the chicken. The sweetness of the preserves and figs are the perfect match to the bitterness of the greens.

Located in a converted house in the historic district of Crystal River, Florida, this cafe’ is the very definition of quaint and one of the most popular lunch destinations in town.

Visiting my folks for Thanksgiving, LC played golf with my Dad while me and Mom shopped. Then we stopped by The Highlander Cafe’ for a leisurely lunch. The restaurant’s concise menu consists of mostly salads and sandwiches, each with an upscale twist. For instance the smoked turkey breast with cranberry sauce. Having just feasted on those very things, I opted for the bacon and brie on ciabatta.

Mom decided to try the toasted bagel with cream cheese and smoked salmon. It was topped with the traditional smattering of onions and capers. My sandwich arrived with a generous amount of bacon and gently melted brie. Both came with a house salad of chopped greens with an interesting combination of grapes, cherry tomatoes, mandarin oranges, and bits of pineapple with a side of housemade honey mustard vinaigrette.

I was pleased to see the owner of the establishment checking in with each table to make sure their meal was satisfactory. And it was obvious that our attentive and efficient server was his son. When the owner came by to chat we realized why the restaurant was named The Highlander….he was Scottish! Altogether, a charming lunch.

My only complaint, and it’s a small one, is the vinyl tablecloths. Crystal River seems to be full of ‘em.

638 N. Citrus Avenue 352-563-0028

Okay, so it wasn’t like we took over or anything. In fact, we were quite civil, enjoying a complimentary glass of prosecco while chatting with chef Jamie Adams who has been with Buckhead Life Restaurants for over twenty years!

I arrived a bit late so some complimentary bites were already underway. A generous platter of shaved prosciutto, chunks of robiola and asiago cheeses, and a variety of olives was enough for the table to share. Crispy fried marsala shrimp didn’t impress but the grilled octopus served over potatoes and red onions dressed with vinaigrette was light and delicious. A portion of tortelli filled with ricotta and local greens was divided into individual bowls, giving each blogger two plump pasta pockets which were inhaled in seconds.

Feeling somewhat conservative, I had already decided to try the Fall Tasting Menu, three courses for only $29. I was particularly looking forward to the rotisserie duck entree, but alas, it had been replaced by rosemary garlic marinated ribs, which I reluctantly ordered.

I was excited to try the appetizer, an arugula salad with smoked trout, pickled watermelon radishes, and red onions, dressed with white balsamic vinaigrette but couldn’t locate more than a sliver of fish when it arrived. Grrrrr. Perhaps a ridiculously pricey glass of cabernet would help?

I usually don’t associate ribs with Italian food. In fact, I’m not a fan of either. But I must admit these ribs had an delectable crust and flavor. The accompanying fresh arugula lightened up the meaty dish and I loved the crispy shoestring onions on top!

For dessert we shared two traditional Italian sweets; a plate of bomboloni and tiramisu. Not nearly as light and airy as the zeppoles at LPC, the bomboloni are made with ricotta, drizzled with honey, and served with vanilla whipped cream. Tiramisu was exactly what it was supposed to be, a classic.

And yes, the glass of cab did help.

41 14th Street NW 404-875-8424

L-tryptophan coma, round 2:

If you’re like me, you’ve got some leftover turkey from Thanksgiving. Who doesn’t? I bagged up individual servings and stashed them in the freezer to use on salads (instead of chicken) and for this yummy turkey salad, adapted from a recipe for curried egg salad that I found in one of my Mom’s Health magazines.

I’ve been buying the curried chicken salad at Whole Foods for years, so this is my homemade interpretation. It’s one of those recipes that you can add ingredients to taste, depending on what you have on hand:

4 oz. cooked turkey, shredded
3 tblsp. Greek yogurt
1 tblsp. finely chopped green pepper
1 tblsp. chopped celery
1/2 tsp. curry powder
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
dash of salt
1 tsp. dried cranberries (optional)

Mix it up! You could experiment with herbs too, like parsley or cilantro. Pinenuts or almonds would also add textural interest (and calories).

The first time I served it simply on a bed of field greens. But it was even better with a spinach salad dressed with red wine vinegar, olive oil, and black pepper. I’m sure it would make a fine sandwich on toasted wheat or ciabatta too!

La Pietra Cucina in Buckhead is now simply called LPC, a more casual name that corresponds with the restaurant’s revamped interior and more approachable menu.

Not known for my love of Italian cuisine, I had not visited the restaurant in its former incarnation, but was happy to be invited to a media dinner as Concentrics unveiled the new concept and menu, along with its celebrity chef Russell Kook who almost won season 8 of Hell’s Kitchen.

As everyone arrived, we were greeted by Hannah and Michaela of Concentrics PR and treated to a glass of Tuscan chardonnay or the Sardinian cannonau, the rich and somewhat dry red that I chose.

An abbrieviated family style menu made it easy for our large group. The first course was an array of salads and appetizers including luscious scallops with cauliflower puree and fried octopus served atop grilled frisee, white beans, pickled pearl onions, and finished with a smoky arrabiata sauce. My favorite, however, was the bowl of charred fiorello peppers spooned onto our plates by our awesome server.

I was impressed with the numerous vegetarian options available for BG who writes for the impossibly cool, cutting-edge website Urbandaddy. She enjoyed the Brussels sprout salad, a mound of julienned sprouts flavored with pecorino, hardboiled egg, and marcona almonds. I, however, was envisioning roasted sprouts tossed with a vinaigrette (and perhaps some pancetta!), so I didn’t love it.

The selection of entrees was equally impressive. Should I choose the linguini carbonara, the classic pasta dish with pancetta, or the braised short rib with polenta? I couldn’t resist the carbonara, with the poached duck egg on top, to be stirred into the pasta upon serving, creating a rich and decadent sauce.

BG ordered the butternut squash “piramide”, little pasta pockets filled with pureed squash and ricotta salata, in a somewhat sweet brown butter sauce with sage and amaretti. Sure, it’s become a ubiquitous vegetarian Italian dish, but chef Kook’s version was a standout.

Once all of the entrees were delivered, we realized no one ordered the short rib. Moments later, two plates arrived for us to share. One bite of the meltingly tender beef made me wish I had ordered it all for myself! Creamy Anson Mills polenta, cippolini onions, and a generous garnish of pinenut gremolata united to create a meaty masterpiece.

Bob Amick arrived just in time for dessert, pouring the remaining wine for us (hense the blurry photo) and chatting about the renovations and new direction for the location, as well as his multi-faceted project in St. Louis. Chef Kook was seated at our table as well while we devoured a deceptively light warm chocolate budino, a cross between cake and pudding, garnished with a hint of sea salt and a smudge of Nutella.

We concluded our Italian feast with plates of Sicilian zeppole, little fried doughnuts sprinkled with sugar and dipped in espresso crema.

Much like my visit to Davio’s, I found the meal at LPC to be anything but typical Italian food. The dishes were flavored with authentic, Italian ingredients, yet defied classification as such. Looks (and tastes) like another winner for Amick and his team….Bravo!

1545 Peachtree Street 404-888-8709