Hot Dish Review

It was late Friday night and LC and I still had not decided on dinner plans, so we got in his car, as we often do, without a specific destination in mind. He turned left, then right, passing a number of restaurants that we didn’t want to visit. LC wanted to watch the NCAA tournament and I wanted high quality food….two things that usually don’t go hand in hand.

We were running out of options when we drove by Rosebud. I spotted big screen TV’s behind the bar so we decided to give it a shot. We had eaten there once before a couple of years ago, the memory of their earthy mushroom toasts still fresh in my head.

The space is deceptively large, with dining rooms to the left and right of the entrance where the bar is located. Wood and exposed brick combine with shades of deep yellow for warmth and Southern charm.

We took the last two seats at the bar, his eyes glued to the TV, mine glued to the menu. Mushroom toasts were long gone, but there was a list of specials that included lobster lettuce wraps, so we decided on those and an order of Brussels sprouts to start. A split of Freixenet prior to our dinner prompted me to order a glass of cava while LC couldn’t resist a skinny margarita.

Halved and roasted, the sprouts were large but tender, tossed with a maple sambal glaze. No complaints but the Brussels sprouts war is currently being won by Hearth in Sandy Springs. Two leaves of butter lettuce were generously filled with lobster salad but I was surprised that there was no dipping sauce, making the lettuce wraps anticlimactic for me. LC used the remaining maple sambal glaze to add flavor….a good idea but I had already eaten my plain wrap.

As we often do, we ordered an entree and side to split. A massive Riverview Farms pork chop was cooked medium-well and served on a tangy sweet bed of braised red cabbage. Pears are a natural accompaniment to pork, here served pickled, and arranged on top. An enormous potato and kale casserole may not have been my first choice as a side, but the crunchy bread crumb topping convinced me it was the right one. There was a good bit of fat on the chop, but we carefully cut around it and didn’t leave a morsel of meat on the plate.

Our attention was divided between dinner and dunks, but during commercials we watched the bartenders shaking up some pretty cocktails. Perhaps in an unwise move, I decided to follow my bubbly with a drink called “Mexican firing squad special”, made with tequila, lime, and housemade grenadine. A dash of bitters floated on top along with a preserved black cherry from a $100 can imported from Italy. (Yes, they are worth it).

Although we don’t visit often, I can see why chef Eyester’s restaurant is consistently packed. The ambiance is warm and inviting and the food is what it should be….delicious. The final score? Rosebud 1, hunger 0.

1397 N. Highland Avenue 404-347-9747

Both LC and I have driven past this place on Briarcliff dozens of times, always curious exactly what Hawaiian BBQ is. It conjures up images of whole roasted pigs, big meaty smoked ribs, grilled pineapple. Well, get those tasty images out of your head or you’ll be disappointed with this place. There are no meats prepared in a smoker, in fact, nothing is actually barbecued.

The decor is cheap and cheery, decorated with stereotypical plastic palm trees. Guests order at the counter from a huge selection of mostly Asian inspired fast food mainstays like steamed dumplings, spring rolls, onion rings, and chicken wings to start.

LC and I both ordered the $6.99 lunch special, a Chinese food court wannabe, each with two choices of meat, one scoop of steamed rice, and a scoop of macaroni salad that all plates come with. LC chose the BBQ pork and spicy chicken while I went with BBQ beef rib and spicy pork. I also was excited to try their fried plantains, which I thought would be a great accompaniment with my pork. However, the plantains came out right away, still sizzling from the deep fryer.

The plates at Waikikie consist of bite-size pieces of sauteed or deep fried pork, chicken, or beef tossed in whichever sauce you choose, like teriyaki or katsu. A runner delivered our food on paper plates. It was difficult to tell which was which. My beef rib wasn’t a whole rib, but rather thin slices. Inexplicably, a flavorless layer of cabbage was beneath the meat.

Once cooled off, the plantains proved to be some of the best I’ve ever eaten. Chewy, crisp edges gave way to the slightly sweet fruit. They would have been a great compliment to BBQ pork, but unfortunately, they don’t serve that at Waikikie.

The back of the menu describes the food at Waikikie as Hawaiian “local food”, making me question my desire to travel halfway across the globe to our 50th state. If this is what they will serve me there, I think I’ll go to Thailand instead.

2160 Briarcliff Road NE 404-638-1115

Anticipation. Sure, it’s supposed to make whatever you’re waiting for even better when you finally get it, or fuel your inevitable disappointment, as the case may be. I didn’t intend to wait this long to dine at Cardamom Hill, Chef Asha Gomez’ brick and mortar restaurant modeled after her exclusive Spice Route Supper Club, especially considering the hype surrounding her Kerala Indian cuisine, including a national write-up in a recent issue of Food and Wine Magazine.

LC and I arrived two days late for our Valentine’s Day dinner seeing as he was deathly ill on the day itself. The door of the small space in a strip shopping center opens by the restaurant’s bar while the main dining room is divided by a central partition. Decor is rather plain but I was there for the food, super-excited to taste what everyone was talking about. We started off with drinks, a specialty cocktail for him, a glass of red wine for me.

Although it is the dish I have been waiting to try since I first read Cardamom Hill’s menu, I was talked out of ordering the duck and plantain croquettes by LC for practical reasons. He was right. I was ordering the duck entree and he wasn’t very hungry, so we would order three other appetizers instead and share the duck.

Among the three small plates we ordered was my old favorite, pork vindaloo. Easily the spiciest of the Indian sauces, one usually finds it dumbed down for us Americans. However, Gomez gives us an authentic fiery version and serves it with a rice-coconut crepe. Although the menu says the meat is a shoulder cut, I could have sworn it was pork belly. Cubes of fat mingled with the tender meat, surprising me with their unappetizing texture. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the deep, spicy flavor.

LC chose the curry chicken pastries, two turnovers filled with fragrant minced curried chicken then baked crisp. Spiced with cumin, corriander, and curry powder, they were satisfying but not particularly noteworthy. We agreed on a third dish, the short rib with sweet potato, mainly because I love sweet potatoes.

Modernizing the idea of the traditional thali, Gomez composes some dishes on small square white plates set on long wooden boards, each displaying a separate ingredient. This is how the short rib was presented, spiced pulled rib meat in one dish, two (yes, only two) slices of cardamom scented sweet potato in the center, and arugula with a punchy citrus vinaigrette in the third dish, providing a wonderful acid contrast to the sweet and spicy flavors.

I was horrified when my crispy duck leg arrived, completely covered in the clove pepper sauce mentioned on the menu. Even worse was that the sauce was room temperature. I wonder if the skin of the duck was crispy before it was drowned in the sauce…it almost made me cry. Another issue was my request to substitute the confit potatoes with sweet potatoes, to which I was told they couldn’t do it. I can’t imagine why not since the potatoes were plated separately and could have easily been switched. A fruit chutney heavy on ginger paired well with the duck which was actually delicious after I got past the sauce.

Despite feeling a little better than on Valentine’s Day, LC didn’t have enough energy for dessert, so I ordered the mango bread pudding to go. It was beautifully presented in a black container and devoured immediately when we got home. Dense and not too sweet, the individually baked pudding was drizzled with a little simple syrup and served with fresh fruit and a mango dipping sauce.

I enjoyed most of the dishes at Cardamom Hill but left wondering what all the hoopla was about. Should we have tried the Kerala fried chicken that is a specialty there? I missed the traditional trappings of Indian food like naan with raita, authentic or not.

1700 Northside Drive 404-549-7012

Italian food….it’s not my thing. But it was me that recommended Double Zero Napoletana for a group of us last week, due to its convenient location and because of my selfish craving for their authentic Neapolitan style pizza.

The cavernous space is divided by a long bar on one side and a communal table down the center with a single row of bare bulbs encased in glass above it, imparting a warm glow to the dark wood furnished dining room. Full length burgundy curtains add drama.

Our group of six met at the bar, immediately impressed by the stellar service. LC ordered a martini which was shaken furiously, creating those tiny ice particles that LC loves. Plus, they had his favorite blue cheese stuffed olives. Embarrassingly unfamiliar with Italian wines, I was thrilled to see they offered many by the half glass, so I began sampling some different varietals.

With an 8:30pm reservation, we were hoping to be seated a bit earlier, but instead were still waiting at the bar. So we decided to order a snack of butternut squash frittelle, crispy fritters filled with a creamy and slightly sweet squash puree. They were served on a smudge of caramelized onion aioli and a handful of watercress, then drizzled with lemon honey. We devoured them.

Even at 9:00pm, the restaurant was abuzz with folks enjoying good food and wine. Unsure how much longer our wait would be, LC and I ordered the pizza that I was craving, the maiale, a decadent combination of sweet and savory toppings. Braised Nueske’s bacon, mushrooms, goat cheese, garlic, fig-onion agrodolce, olive oil, vanilla salt, and fresh arugula hit all the right notes. Double Zero serves all of their pizzas whole, with scissors to cut your own slices. Love it!

As soon as our pizza arrived, however, our table was ready. The manager stopped by with a complimentary dish of the butternut squash frittelle, a peace offering for our lengthy wait. Nice.

Having perused the menu, RT, who is Italian, commented that authentic Italian food is simple, hinting that the dishes at Double Zero are a bit too complicated. Much like its Spanish influenced sister, The Iberian Pig in Decatur, I find that the menu here suffers from the same overuse of ingredients. Nevertheless, the result at both locations is deliciousness.

A prime example of this overuse of ingredients is the capesante, the seared scallops entree served with corn-arbol sauce, pearl onions, summer squash, seasonal mushrooms, crispy artichokes, and saba vinegar. Both RT and his wife CT ordered them. Each of the three scallops per dish was the size of my palm. LC and I were offered bites and agreed that it was a fantastic dish.

But first, CT had a salad composed of marinated beets, frisee, grapefruit, goat cheese, and candied pecans, dressed simply with a red wine vinaigrette. We tried it as well and found the flavors terrific.

LC and I split the osso buco entree, a roasted pork loin the size of my forearm. The menu described its accompaniments as creamed farretto with dried apricot, pork demi, and crispy parsnips. I really thought it was sweet potato puree and spaghetti squash, but having had five half glasses of red wine, you can’t really rely on my assessment. However, I do know for certain that the meat was incredibly tender.

After we polished off our entrees, the manager returned with yet another peace offering, a flute of prosecco for each of us. Although we were stuffed, I coerced LC into sharing a bowl of gelato with me, pistachio and coffee. Having eaten copious amounts of gelato in Europe, the American version is always too sweet and creamy, as was Double Zero’s, but the flavors were pleasing. It was a sweet ending to a lovely evening with friends and family.

5825 Roswell Road 404-991-3666

My first visit to Concentrics’ new restaurant, The Spence, was a lovely experience. Soft lighting warmed up the cool modern industrial space. Dramatic dishes envisioned by celebrity chef/mad scientist Richard Blais elicited excitement. My anticipation was met with brilliant, quirky combinations that worked most of the time. And when they did, it was heavenly.

I was hoping to recreate that experience on my subsequent visit with friend YP, however, most of the menu items that were amazing (beet pappardelle with duck confit, for example) were, not surprisingly, off the menu. Like most chefs these days, Blais’ menu in is constant flux due to the availability of seasonal ingredients, and of course, his whims.

YP met me on a blustery Winter night. Thankfully, there’s a valet just steps from the door. We started with a bottle of lambrusco and an order of chef’s already almost famous “oysters & pearls” for her, the carrot agnolotti with pig trotter and persimmon for me.

New to the world of cheap, chilled, sparkling red wine, YP loved the light, easy-drinking lambrusco. Of the four raw oysters, she insisted I eat one. Nitrogen was used to freeze horseradish creating the “pearls” which sufficiently concealed the mollusks’s flavor. As an oyster aficionado, YP gave them the thumbs up.

I prefered my appetizer, a long transparent plate of braised sweet carrots, caramelized persimmon slices, and pasta pockets filled with pork, capturing the essence of the season.

Our server removed our utensils, replacing them with a mishmash of vintage pieces…love that. We decided to share two additional small plates and a side. First a wooden cutting board arrived with a slab of foie gras terrine, artfully adorned with micro greens, pickled cherries and candied kumquat. Sure, it was darling, but YP noted the terrine was a bit too cold to spread and the thick slices of accompanying Texas toast were dry and crumbly. With a pork terrine offered as well, it would have been logical if the foie gras was served seared. And I dare say it would have been tastier.

Perhaps the Brussels sprouts, fried with haricots verts and dressed with a Thai vinaigrette, would fare better. Indeed, they were delicious, although a bit on the salty side.

Our third dish to share was another made with pasta, this one a mezzi rigatoni colored black by squid ink. It was served with clams, octopus, and a smattering of goat cheese, all resting in a cool sauce that reminded us of Sriracha with mayo. The seafood was properly prepared but the disparate elements of the dish simply didn’t coalesce.

Ever since we planned our dinner I was looking forward to having their housemade milk punch, served as an after dinner cordial with a few tiny, chewy cookies. After we squeezed the last drop from the lambrusco bottle, I ordered it, only to find out a few moments later that they were out. However, our server thoughtfully brought us some of the tiny cookies but even they were disappointingly crisp (they are described as “crisps”, so I imagine this is the way they are meant to be although they were pleasingly chewy the last time).

The atmosphere and service were great, as before. And the food was predictably unpredictable.

75 5th Street NW 404-892-9111

I rarely rave about anything. But get ready, because I’m about to tell you that my recent dinner and movie date with LC was the best movie experience ever!

Reviews on CineBistro in Town Brookhaven have been mostly positive, so I was expecting decent food and drinks. Heck, just the fact that you can get alcoholic beverages at a theater is an exciting concept…like adults in Europe!

I had already mapped out my strategy for maximum pleasure, planning on an appetizer and drink at the bar, then dinner and more drinks while watching Rock of Ages. It was a good plan, but I didn’t count on sitting in traffic for 45 minutes. No worries. Manager Brian Dobson explained the theater’s concept and said we still had time to execute my plan despite the time. LC was already at the bar ordering his dirty martini, so I joined him, deciding to try their sangria.

Without delay, I ordered the bacon wrapped dates, little sugary gems stuffed with sharp gorgonzola, then wrapped with chewy, salty bacon. A balsamic glaze and herb oil finished the plate of deliciousness that paired perfectly with my spicy, fruity sangria. It was an exciting preview, but it was almost time for the feature, so we headed into the theater where we had assigned seats on the back row. The stadium style seating in oversized leather chairs provided great views and comfort, with the added benefit of a retractable tray for food and drinks.

We ordered a second appetizer, lamb lollis, and our entrees, all of which would be brought out prior to the beginning of Rock of Ages. A martini for LC, another glass of sangria and my traditional movie treat, Milk Duds, came out first while we watched multiple trailers for new releases.

Just before the movie began, our server returned with LC’s rock shrimp risotto and my habanero glazed pork tenderloin. I expected the smoked gouda grits that accompanied the pork to be creamy, but they were formed in a circle and rather dry. No cheese was detected, but I had forgotten that it was supposed to be there, instead enthralled with the thin discs of pineapple that sandwiched the grits. Heat from the habanero glaze played off the sweet pineapple and was further complimented by the delicate crunch from the cubes of jicama. The green onion had taken on the stringy texture that they often do when cooked, making it difficult to cut, so I ate it whole. Then I licked my plate.

Less impressive were the lamb lollis with potato sauce and pomegranate glaze, perhaps because they were a little too fatty, or maybe it was that everything else was so good. LC couldn’t quite finish his risotto, full of plump shrimp thoughtfully cut into bite-size pieces with tails removed….remember, it’s pretty dark in the theater and no one wants to encounter shrimp tails hidden in their risotto. My fork wandered over to his bowl on several occassions.

I finished my sangria and wished I had another, but was too involved in the movie (and too lazy) to leave my seat. Rock of Ages kicked ass! Cheesy yet ridiculously entertaining for the 40-55 age group, it was a hilarious trip back in time. I opened the box of Milk Duds and quietly sang along to Guns ‘n’ Roses, Journey, Scorpions….and smiled, caramel stuck to my teeth.

1004 Town Blvd. 404-333-0740

Lately, the only time I stop by Babette’s is to pick up a sinfully rich dried cherry tart….my very favorite dessert on the planet! But a recent Sunday night found us craving something different, yet in the neighborhood.

Babette’s charming atmosphere makes it the perfect choice for a romantic date. Located in a renovated house, the interior is rustic and charming with creaky, weathered wood floors and vintage fixtures.

The cuisine at Babette’s is mostly French influenced, puncuated with a few Mediterranean dishes. In keeping with tradition, I started with a glass of spicy Cote du Rhone. Surprisingly, LC chose the same which we sipped while nibbling on hunks of their freshly baked baguettes, delivered standing straight up in a little pail….very phallic. Very French.

A selection of small plates is usually the best way to go at this cafe’. After my lengthy absence, chef and owner Marla Adams had added some interesting new ones, as well as deleted a couple of old standbys. No worries, the entrees were calling our names, so we decided to split one and start with the (new) lobster spinach crepes, (old standby) artichoke and olive raviolis, and roasted cauliflower (new).

Not at all what I expected, the crepes themselves were made with spinach, simply filled with succulent chunks of lobster, delicately folded and resting in a light truffle butter sauce with a little mound of sauteed mushrooms on top. LC and I loved them!

The raviolis were as delicious as I remembered….about six pasta pouches filled with pureed artichokes and olives in a deceptively light wine butter sauce.

I think of cauliflower as white and bland, but the vegetable dish offered a small plate was the surprise of the evening. Roasted florets were drizzled with a bit of butter sauce and topped with slivers of toasted almonds.

For our entree we chose the pan roasted pork chop with onion sauce, paired with roasted Brussels sprouts and horseradish mashed potatoes. I ordered a second glass of wine as we waited on its arrival. The large bone-in chop was tender and flavorful, but the best part was the sauce….not a sauce at all but a generous helping of sweet caramelized onions. Brussels sprouts displayed an earthy, smoky flavor, although not quite tender enough. I don’t even remember the mashed potatoes but I’m pretty sure we cleaned our plate.

My second choice was the roast half duck with rutabaga compote and farro. Maybe next time, if the next time is soon, as chef changes her menu seasonally, and sometimes daily.

Which brings me to the dried cherry tart, a decadent treat only available in the Fall and Winter months. As if it wasn’t rich enough, we added a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream on the side. Dried cherries plumped up with liquor fill the crust made with crushed almonds. It is at once sweet and tart, chewy and crunchy….ridiculously amazing!

573 North Highland Avenue 404-523-9121

Despite its location near my home, I rarely get to this neighborhood favorite. But recently, I happened to stop by while they were filming for the new Atlanta food show Atlanta Eats. A lovely chat with chef and owner Jay Swift regarding his photography and blog set the stage for an interesting evening.

After the shoot wrapped, most of the cast and crew hung around for drinks and dinner. LC met me there where we chose a cozy table by the expansive bar. My first glass of prosecco went down easy so I ordered another plus a couple of appetizers for us to share.

A basket of miniature sourdough rolls with butter arrived with our drinks. Moments later, the crispy Brussels sprouts appeared, flavored with North Georgia apples, dollops of creme fraiche, and toasted pistachios for crunch. Apple cider reduction dressed the sprouts lending a tangy and slightly sweet note to the bitter vegetable.

Our second starter was the wood grilled Spanish octopus with a red wine salsify puree’, bitter greens, and charred pearl onions, drizzled with Winter squash vinaigrette. Swift’s talents are fully realized with this memorable Autumn dish, each element providing balance and harmony. For instance, the pureed salsify, a root vegetable often called oyster plant due to its flavor, enhanced the smokiness of the tender octopus.

There are few dishes that remain on the menu from a restaurant’s inception, in part because most chefs use locally sourced produce, making seasonal changes mandatory. However, one dish has remained a constant at 4th & Swift, the iconic Three Little Piggies entree. It is a playful trio of pork flavors and textures: tender and juicy grilled Berkshire loin, house-made pork sausage called cotachino, and crunchy chicharron “popcorn” made from the skin. Tiny bourbon marinated scoops of apple that looked like chickpeas at first glance added a touch of sweetness to the three preparations of pork, served with wilted spinach.

It’s not light, it’s not cheap, but it’s damn good. We should visit more often!

621 North Avenue NE 678-904-0160

The drive back from Alabama was uneventful, conveniently ending in my neighborhood right at dinner time. Little T wanted Yogli Mogli for dinner (not a terrible idea) but LC and I thought it might be prudent to have it for dessert. So we stopped by an old favorite, Diesel, for a bite.

I tend to forget that Diesel is a smoky bar, full of tattooed dudes and chicks with multiple body piercings since we always sit on the patio. Its rock ‘n’ roll vibe doesn’t quite fit into the preppy persona of the Virginia Highlands. We ordered a couple of Miller Lites and watched a zombie movie marathon on the flat screen TV.

Little T ordered the house salad while LC and I decided to split the special, pork tenderloin stuffed with a mixture of dried apricots and walnuts, then wrapped in bacon and smoked in their Big Green Egg. irresistible! We chose corn on the cob and jicama coleslaw as our sides.

At first I was disappointed with the pork. The stuffing was beige with no discernable flavor. However, LC pointed out that the meat was very tender. A bright cranberry liquid was spooned on top giving a dish a somewhat “bloody” appearance (maybe it was a side effect of the zombie’s munching on each other’s limbs) and lending a tangy sweetness to the dish. We enjoyed the crunchy slaw but the corn lacked the spicy seasoning promised on the menu. And butter.

Considering where we were, I decided it was a passable dinner. Next up, Yogli Mogli!

870 N. Highland Avenue 404-815-1820

After a six hour drive, we were ready for drinks! But much to our chagrin, Mammoth Cave is located in a dry county in Kentucky, so we stocked up on Corona Lights before our arrival, not expecting any establishment to serve alcohol. Luckily, the Mexican restaurant across the street from our motel serves liquor.

El Patron is obviously not accustomed to handling large groups as our crew of thirteen seemed to have them flustered. Once seated at the three tables covered with plastic, we immediately ordered a round of margaritas on the rocks. Their signature margarita, deceptively called The Patron, sounded like the kind LC and I always order, made without sour mix….and without Patron.

Although the name El Patron implies Mexican food, the menu also offers a variety of American entrees, including duck. Our group stuck with Mexican. LC was ravenous and ordered a shrimp cocktail and an order of chicken flautas for us to split, as well as the achiote marinated roast pork entree. Several people ordered fajitas. There was a lengthy wait for our drinks, however, when they arrived we agreed they were the best margaritas we had ever had! A couple of baskets of mediocre chips finally showed up with what tasted like marinara instead of salsa. And it was warm….weird.

Suddenly, LC’s drink flew across the table onto his sister’s lap, causing additional confusion for the harried staff. Shortly after, three orders of fajitas arrived. Other entrees came out but LC and I still had not received our appetizers. Another round of potent margaritas made us feel better while we waited.

Finally, our flautas were delivered, four tortillas filled with shredded chicken and covered with melted cheese. Served with lettuce, sour cream, and a big pile of mushy rice, it was the size of a full entree. Although everyone’s meal came with guacamole, there was none, so I found our server and requested it for the table. The flautas were pleasantly crisp and tasty but lacked spice. My version with green chilis is better.

By the time our pork arrived, those that had fajitas were finished. It wasn’t a pretty plate, filled with shredded pork, more rice and some watery beans. We ordered corn tortillas on the side to make tacos. Again, tasty but no hint of heat. I was stuffed. That’s when the shrimp cocktail arrived, a margarita glass with at least eight big shrimp and chunks of avocado swimming in that same horrific “salsa”. It was passed around the table and eventually disappeared.

After dinner we walked to the nearby ice cream shop. Just opened by a family that relocated from Waycross, Georgia, it was like hillbilly heaven, complete with a gift shop cluttered with thrift store finds including an irridescent unicorn and teddy bears made of wax. We each got a cone and watched the kids race go-carts next door. As we were leaving the teenage girl, a self-proclaimed hoola hoop champion, came out to demonstrate her talent. Very scary stuff.

822 Mammoth Cave Street 270-773-2278