Hot Dish Review

Upscale boutique hotels are springing up all over Atlanta, from midtown’s Georgian Terrace to the newly renovated Ellis Hotel downtown. Each one has a restaurant that serves the hotel guests breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It would seem as though that alone would provide automatic success to these restaurants, however, it isn’t enough to serve out-of-town guests, they need to draw in locals to stay afloat.

The Terrace is serious about local, sustainable produce. Much smaller in scale than Mennie’s Livingston, it is probably easier for chef Joel Young to maintain this level of excellence. B and I recently stopped by the W Downtown to see Bill Hallman and his new cocktail dresses for the waitstaff at the Lobby Bar, then proceeded on to The Ellis for dinner.

Our hostess allowed us to choose our table as the place had pretty much cleared out by the time we arrived. The restaurant does indeed have a terrace, probably fabulous for breakfast and lunch, but a bit chilly for dinner so we sat inside in the adjacent intimate dining area. Chef Joel joined us, chatting about his background and love of local and sustainable dining.

Not a difficult task here in Atlanta with numerous farms providing fresh produce and locally grown proteins to our prestigious restaurants like Woodfire Grill, Dynamic Dish, Livingston, and many more. Chef Joel visits the farmer’s markets each day to find the best of ingredients for the menu at The Terrace, which automatically gives the menu a bit of Southern flair despite chef’s Connecticut roots.

B and I were two hungry chicks upon our late arrival. We started with the Terrace crab cake and sweet potato ravioli. Served upon a large mound of sauteed spinach and muchrooms, the ravioli was almost an entree portion for me, sweet and savory. The crab cake was stellar, exhibiting very little filler and very much chunky crab. But it was the accompanying salad that received my adoration…..just a simple citrus vinaigrette with a sweet note, awesome.

A wonderful bottle of Colores de Sol Malbec was spicy, peppery, yet very smooth and drinkable.

We opted for two entrees, the flatiron steak and the Amish chicken, and two more sides, collards and mac and cheese. Their beef is grass-fed….a big deal to me, having interviewed Bill Kurtis (the dude with the kickass internet commercials right now) who owns a grass-fed cattle ranch in Kansas called Tallgrass. Cattle was meant to eat grass, not corn, so the grass-fed beef is totally free of antibiotics to treat illnesses brought on by grain diets and also naturally rich in Omega 3 fatty acids. We ordered it medium rare, served sliced on a bed of caramelized Vidalia and carrot slaw. I loved the slaw. There was a copius amount so I took it home, having it the next day with sausage balls!

The Amish chicken was served with mushroom risotto. With a crisped skin and tender meat, the chicken was flavorful and paired perfectly with the creamy risotto. B said the collards were some of the best she had ever had (hey, this coming from a Southern girl!), they were mellow and smoky with bacon. The macaroni and cheese was topped with bread crumbs and baked with Lamb Chopper from Cypress Grove in California, the maker of my favorite Humboldt Fog. What could be better? Not a damn thing.

Dessert was determined even before the entrees….bread pudding? Yes sir! I love it, as long as it is not covered with a cloying syrup. True to form, Chef Joel presented a dense bread pudding with raisins, sliced fresh pear beneath it to cut the richness. We also tried the apple cranberry crumble which was so delicious. But the serving was definitely for sharing….enormous! The homemade vanilla ice cream on top was great.

I know folks are daunted by going “downtown”. Stop being a pussy! Parking is valet, the food is phenomenal, the setting is romantic. And if you drink too much you can always get a room there.

Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s have new competition as SAVI Urban Market opens in the trendy new section of Inman Park on Elizabeth Street (think Fritti and you’re there). I stopped in Wednesday night meeting Maureen Hathaway, one of three partners, busily stocking shelves in preparation for the imminent opening.

The brainchild of local entrepreneur Paul Nair, he also enlisted the help of Paul Rodgers, a nationally recognized Wellness Consultant with extensive knowledge of natural foods. The three partners wanted to create an affordable neighborhood market where shoppers could drop in to pick up essentials as well as specialty items. I had the opportunity to chat with Rodgers as well who elaborated “we are not an expensive gourmet market, you’ll see traditional products alongside organic ones.”

Rodgers is especially excited about the enomatic machine that is in transit and will be centrally located near the shelves of wines, most of them priced at $15 or less. The machine will allow customers to taste wines before purchasing them for a small fee….how cool is that?

Their motto is The Butcher, the Baker and the Wine Maker, but the market will also feature locally grown and organic produce, and organic dairy products like the artisan crafted Atlanta Fresh Greek Yogurt made in Norcross. You’ll also find imported crostini from Italy, an impressive selection of gluten-free products, and organic pet foods.

The space is warm and inviting, painted in shades of umber and deep yellows with white tile backing the deli area. Lacquered concrete floors add an industrial touch.

Stores hours are 6am to midnight seven days a week. Ample parking in the back allows one to dash in and pick up prepared meals for individuals or families…great for busy moms and business people alike.

I’m certain as the store gets feedback from shoppers it will evolve and satisfy this neighborhood’s love of originality, quality, and affordability.
I’ll be visiting soon to sample a mini-panini and some other goodies and will re-post with interior photos and more food info. The aroma of freshly baked ciabatta is beckoning already!

Exciting news from the PR Goddesses at Mary Reynolds:

Chef Acheson to launch contemporary meat ‘n’ three in Midtown’s 999 Peachtree

Atlanta, GA – September 16, 2009 – Real estate investment firm Jamestown proudly announces today that they have executed a lease with award-winning Chef Hugh Acheson to launch his first Atlanta restaurant at 999 Peachtree in spring 2010. The new venture, called Empire State So. will be a contemporary and casual meat ‘n’ three restaurant offering breakfast, lunch and dinner.

A finalist for this year’s James Beard Foundation’s Best Chefs in the Southeast award and named a Food & Wine Best New Chef in 2002, Acheson, who owns acclaimed Athens, Ga., restaurants Five & Ten and The National, was an early proponent of fresh, local and responsible cuisine and is known for his support of such groups as Georgia Organics, Georgia Rivers Network and the Southern Foodways Alliance.

“Empire State So. will be a community restaurant focused on southern staples. It will make you crave okra, smothered pork chops, and collard greens. We want it to be a place where you’ll find yourself having a drink on Sunday, a coffee on Monday, lunch on Tuesday, a to-go sandwich on Thursday and dinner on Friday.”

Under Chef Acheson’s direction, Empire State So. will offer guests the opportunity to dine al fresco with a two-sided indoor/outdoor bar. Cultivating an inviting community atmosphere, Empire State So. also will feature an herb garden and bocce ball court. Parking will be convenient for guests with 50 complimentary parking spaces and a valet service. Located at 999 Peachtree, the dining space will feature 90 seats, including 24 seats at the bar. Breakfast and lunch will be served weekdays, dinner will be served Monday through Saturday and brunch will be served on Saturday and Sunday.