Hot Dish Review

Jay Swift’s eponymous restaurant, located in a renovated factory on an otherwise barren stretch of North Avenue, has earned its reputation as one of Atlanta’s best. Well-crafted dishes made with locally sourced ingredients showcase his attention to detail and define his kitchen prowess.

A recent visit with another couple proved, once again, that Swift has a winning formula. It was a blustery Winter’s evening so I was thrilled that the valet is located at the bottom of the stairs leading to the restaurant’s door. Shockingly, TH and her man D were already seated awaiting our arrival.

We joined them and ordered some drinks, a tequila cocktail for him and a glass of prosecco for me. LC took charge and decided we would share three appetizers, including the seared pork belly. I pushed for the octopus despite some looks of concern, and the nearly famous Brussels sprouts which everyone was excited to try.

Three oblong plates arrived and four forks went to work, first a taste of tender octopus, then a bite of Brussels sprouts. A zippy citrus note challenged the smokiness of the wood-grilled Spanish octopus, accompanied by charred pearl onions and fresh arugula on a puree of salsify with red wine. The menu specifies how each ingredient is prepared, making it sound complicated, however, the result is simple…and simply delicious.

Swift’s Brussels sprouts, featured on a recent episode of Atlanta Eats, are roasted and served with sliced North Georgia apples, then dotted with creme fraiche and sprinkled with toasted pistachios, the bitterness of the vegetable cut by a drizzle of sweet apple cider reduction. Of course, that’s how everybody makes them, right? Not even a leaf of a sprout remained.

Chunks of pork belly, the cut of pork from which bacon is made, were interestingly paired with miniature sweet potato muffins….an homage to Southern ingredients. Shaved watermelon radish added color and crunch.

Our friends didn’t come hungry so they were happy with only appetizers. Although I usually decide on a shared entree, LC had zeroed in on the Wagyu flank steak with patatas bravas, charred scallions, sauteed greens, and black garlic jus. As if we didn’t have enough, we ordered an additional side of Brussels sprouts (as opposed to the appetizer version described above), a generous bowl drizzled with creme fraiche. Perfectly cooked to medium, the steak was awesome but nevertheless, I would have chosen the duck breast.

I rarely skip dessert and this occassion was no exception. Unable to decide on one, LC was convinced our companions would help us eat them so we ordered two, the sticky toffee pudding and pear crostada. Flavored with butterscotch, the dense pudding was traditional English comfort food.

My preference, however, was the rustic crostada, simply made by wrapping the fruit with pastry crust and baking. Both desserts were finished with a generous scoop of homemade vanilla bean ice cream.

Service was seamless and our meal was the epitome of modern comfort food. If you are planning a visit, make sure to go while the Brussels sprouts are in season!

621 North Avenue NE 678-904-0160

It was a cool rainy Winter’s night and all I wanted to do was go home and curl up on the sofa, but a last minute dinner invitation was too tempting to resist: “The Optimist you say?” Hmmm….sofa or seafood. “Uh, sure, I’m available for dinner at 9pm!”

Perhaps the name The Optimist was conceived to counteract this country’s economic downturn, as it seems optimism is truly contagious. Regardless, chef and owner Ford Fry has a winner on his hands with this seafood restaurant in the booming Westside, just down the street from his other restaurant, JCT Kitchen.

It’s a gorgeous industrial modern space with exposed brick, metal trusses, and lots of wood including what appears to be original flooring. Lighting behind both bars exudes warmth. I imagine the space to be light and airy during daytime hours. Outside, there is a small yet tricky putting green. Colorful balls and putters are available inside at the hostess stand. Who doesn’t want to play a little golf after dining on oysters?

I met BG at the oyster bar where she was enjoying a cocktail. A glossy white brick oven with a blue octopus painted on it provides a whimsical focal point. We were escorted to our table in the almost full dining room….quite a feat at 9pm on a rainy Monday. I ordered a glass of bubbly.

We decided to share a couple of starters, garlicky littleneck clams and spicy Spanish octopus. Wafer thin slices of garlic and a handful of parsley flavored the clams’ broth, with a thick slice of Texas toast for dipping. A huge tentacle, much like the ones painted on the oven, was roasted and sauced with a kimchee puree. Delightful and photogenic.

On to entrees, we thought sharing one would leave room for dessert….a wise move. However, it was difficult to decide between the grouper and scallops so we flipped a coin. Grouper won. It was served with roasted Japanese eggplant, piquillo peppers, and pine nuts. Probably not the most exciting dish ever, but I’m never too excited by fish. We also ordered a couple of extra veggies, Brussels sprouts and turnip greens. Both were good but neither outstanding. I heard the scallops were amazing, after the fact, of course.

Another glass of bubbly and it was time for dessert. Our server listed them verbally. BG inquired about the “Savannah style” beignets, which were described as layered and heavier than New Orleans style. Drizzled with syrup and served with creme fraiche, they were indeed dense but delicious.

Although it wasn’t the best meal I’ve had recently, the atmosphere and service were superior. There are enough items on the menu to bring me back, like the frothy she-crab soup, Maine mussels in green curry broth (yes!), and of course, the scallops. Plus, I need to improve my putting.

914 Howell Mill Road 404-477-6260

My first visit to Concentrics’ new restaurant, The Spence, was a lovely experience. Soft lighting warmed up the cool modern industrial space. Dramatic dishes envisioned by celebrity chef/mad scientist Richard Blais elicited excitement. My anticipation was met with brilliant, quirky combinations that worked most of the time. And when they did, it was heavenly.

I was hoping to recreate that experience on my subsequent visit with friend YP, however, most of the menu items that were amazing (beet pappardelle with duck confit, for example) were, not surprisingly, off the menu. Like most chefs these days, Blais’ menu in is constant flux due to the availability of seasonal ingredients, and of course, his whims.

YP met me on a blustery Winter night. Thankfully, there’s a valet just steps from the door. We started with a bottle of lambrusco and an order of chef’s already almost famous “oysters & pearls” for her, the carrot agnolotti with pig trotter and persimmon for me.

New to the world of cheap, chilled, sparkling red wine, YP loved the light, easy-drinking lambrusco. Of the four raw oysters, she insisted I eat one. Nitrogen was used to freeze horseradish creating the “pearls” which sufficiently concealed the mollusks’s flavor. As an oyster aficionado, YP gave them the thumbs up.

I prefered my appetizer, a long transparent plate of braised sweet carrots, caramelized persimmon slices, and pasta pockets filled with pork, capturing the essence of the season.

Our server removed our utensils, replacing them with a mishmash of vintage pieces…love that. We decided to share two additional small plates and a side. First a wooden cutting board arrived with a slab of foie gras terrine, artfully adorned with micro greens, pickled cherries and candied kumquat. Sure, it was darling, but YP noted the terrine was a bit too cold to spread and the thick slices of accompanying Texas toast were dry and crumbly. With a pork terrine offered as well, it would have been logical if the foie gras was served seared. And I dare say it would have been tastier.

Perhaps the Brussels sprouts, fried with haricots verts and dressed with a Thai vinaigrette, would fare better. Indeed, they were delicious, although a bit on the salty side.

Our third dish to share was another made with pasta, this one a mezzi rigatoni colored black by squid ink. It was served with clams, octopus, and a smattering of goat cheese, all resting in a cool sauce that reminded us of Sriracha with mayo. The seafood was properly prepared but the disparate elements of the dish simply didn’t coalesce.

Ever since we planned our dinner I was looking forward to having their housemade milk punch, served as an after dinner cordial with a few tiny, chewy cookies. After we squeezed the last drop from the lambrusco bottle, I ordered it, only to find out a few moments later that they were out. However, our server thoughtfully brought us some of the tiny cookies but even they were disappointingly crisp (they are described as “crisps”, so I imagine this is the way they are meant to be although they were pleasingly chewy the last time).

The atmosphere and service were great, as before. And the food was predictably unpredictable.

75 5th Street NW 404-892-9111

Okay, so it wasn’t like we took over or anything. In fact, we were quite civil, enjoying a complimentary glass of prosecco while chatting with chef Jamie Adams who has been with Buckhead Life Restaurants for over twenty years!

I arrived a bit late so some complimentary bites were already underway. A generous platter of shaved prosciutto, chunks of robiola and asiago cheeses, and a variety of olives was enough for the table to share. Crispy fried marsala shrimp didn’t impress but the grilled octopus served over potatoes and red onions dressed with vinaigrette was light and delicious. A portion of tortelli filled with ricotta and local greens was divided into individual bowls, giving each blogger two plump pasta pockets which were inhaled in seconds.

Feeling somewhat conservative, I had already decided to try the Fall Tasting Menu, three courses for only $29. I was particularly looking forward to the rotisserie duck entree, but alas, it had been replaced by rosemary garlic marinated ribs, which I reluctantly ordered.

I was excited to try the appetizer, an arugula salad with smoked trout, pickled watermelon radishes, and red onions, dressed with white balsamic vinaigrette but couldn’t locate more than a sliver of fish when it arrived. Grrrrr. Perhaps a ridiculously pricey glass of cabernet would help?

I usually don’t associate ribs with Italian food. In fact, I’m not a fan of either. But I must admit these ribs had an delectable crust and flavor. The accompanying fresh arugula lightened up the meaty dish and I loved the crispy shoestring onions on top!

For dessert we shared two traditional Italian sweets; a plate of bomboloni and tiramisu. Not nearly as light and airy as the zeppoles at LPC, the bomboloni are made with ricotta, drizzled with honey, and served with vanilla whipped cream. Tiramisu was exactly what it was supposed to be, a classic.

And yes, the glass of cab did help.

41 14th Street NW 404-875-8424

Despite its location near my home, I rarely get to this neighborhood favorite. But recently, I happened to stop by while they were filming for the new Atlanta food show Atlanta Eats. A lovely chat with chef and owner Jay Swift regarding his photography and blog set the stage for an interesting evening.

After the shoot wrapped, most of the cast and crew hung around for drinks and dinner. LC met me there where we chose a cozy table by the expansive bar. My first glass of prosecco went down easy so I ordered another plus a couple of appetizers for us to share.

A basket of miniature sourdough rolls with butter arrived with our drinks. Moments later, the crispy Brussels sprouts appeared, flavored with North Georgia apples, dollops of creme fraiche, and toasted pistachios for crunch. Apple cider reduction dressed the sprouts lending a tangy and slightly sweet note to the bitter vegetable.

Our second starter was the wood grilled Spanish octopus with a red wine salsify puree’, bitter greens, and charred pearl onions, drizzled with Winter squash vinaigrette. Swift’s talents are fully realized with this memorable Autumn dish, each element providing balance and harmony. For instance, the pureed salsify, a root vegetable often called oyster plant due to its flavor, enhanced the smokiness of the tender octopus.

There are few dishes that remain on the menu from a restaurant’s inception, in part because most chefs use locally sourced produce, making seasonal changes mandatory. However, one dish has remained a constant at 4th & Swift, the iconic Three Little Piggies entree. It is a playful trio of pork flavors and textures: tender and juicy grilled Berkshire loin, house-made pork sausage called cotachino, and crunchy chicharron “popcorn” made from the skin. Tiny bourbon marinated scoops of apple that looked like chickpeas at first glance added a touch of sweetness to the three preparations of pork, served with wilted spinach.

It’s not light, it’s not cheap, but it’s damn good. We should visit more often!

621 North Avenue NE 678-904-0160

La Pietra Cucina in Buckhead is now simply called LPC, a more casual name that corresponds with the restaurant’s revamped interior and more approachable menu.

Not known for my love of Italian cuisine, I had not visited the restaurant in its former incarnation, but was happy to be invited to a media dinner as Concentrics unveiled the new concept and menu, along with its celebrity chef Russell Kook who almost won season 8 of Hell’s Kitchen.

As everyone arrived, we were greeted by Hannah and Michaela of Concentrics PR and treated to a glass of Tuscan chardonnay or the Sardinian cannonau, the rich and somewhat dry red that I chose.

An abbrieviated family style menu made it easy for our large group. The first course was an array of salads and appetizers including luscious scallops with cauliflower puree and fried octopus served atop grilled frisee, white beans, pickled pearl onions, and finished with a smoky arrabiata sauce. My favorite, however, was the bowl of charred fiorello peppers spooned onto our plates by our awesome server.

I was impressed with the numerous vegetarian options available for BG who writes for the impossibly cool, cutting-edge website Urbandaddy. She enjoyed the Brussels sprout salad, a mound of julienned sprouts flavored with pecorino, hardboiled egg, and marcona almonds. I, however, was envisioning roasted sprouts tossed with a vinaigrette (and perhaps some pancetta!), so I didn’t love it.

The selection of entrees was equally impressive. Should I choose the linguini carbonara, the classic pasta dish with pancetta, or the braised short rib with polenta? I couldn’t resist the carbonara, with the poached duck egg on top, to be stirred into the pasta upon serving, creating a rich and decadent sauce.

BG ordered the butternut squash “piramide”, little pasta pockets filled with pureed squash and ricotta salata, in a somewhat sweet brown butter sauce with sage and amaretti. Sure, it’s become a ubiquitous vegetarian Italian dish, but chef Kook’s version was a standout.

Once all of the entrees were delivered, we realized no one ordered the short rib. Moments later, two plates arrived for us to share. One bite of the meltingly tender beef made me wish I had ordered it all for myself! Creamy Anson Mills polenta, cippolini onions, and a generous garnish of pinenut gremolata united to create a meaty masterpiece.

Bob Amick arrived just in time for dessert, pouring the remaining wine for us (hense the blurry photo) and chatting about the renovations and new direction for the location, as well as his multi-faceted project in St. Louis. Chef Kook was seated at our table as well while we devoured a deceptively light warm chocolate budino, a cross between cake and pudding, garnished with a hint of sea salt and a smudge of Nutella.

We concluded our Italian feast with plates of Sicilian zeppole, little fried doughnuts sprinkled with sugar and dipped in espresso crema.

Much like my visit to Davio’s, I found the meal at LPC to be anything but typical Italian food. The dishes were flavored with authentic, Italian ingredients, yet defied classification as such. Looks (and tastes) like another winner for Amick and his team….Bravo!

1545 Peachtree Street 404-888-8709

Recently, I was invited to join the Atlanta Food Bloggers Society. Most of the city’s top bloggers are members so I was thrilled to be included!

Our meetings are, not surprisingly, are held at restaurants where we discuss the food and share tips and tricks on blogging. Often, the restaurant is happy to provide a few complimentary tastings to get us started, and of course, to win our favor so our posts will be positive. Ahhhh….delicious bribery.

A recent get-together at Double Zero Napoletana was a small yet diverse group of bloggers, some with their mates. I took LC along for an Italian feast at this newest venture from the Castelluccis.

Much like their Spanish restaurant in Decatur, Iberian Pig, and multiple locations of Sugo, the Castelluccis don’t skimp on servings here. They started our communal table with two beastly pork shoulder roasts called l’arrosto, each with an assortment of accompaniments. Baskets of thin, toasty bread, made out of pizza dough, served as makeshift pita pockets to be filled with pieces of the roast, so tender it fell apart at the approach of our forks. I chose grilled radicchio, apple-almond mostarda, and hot Calabrian chiles to pair with the meat. Chunks of carrot and potato added to the rustic appeal of this dish, easily large enough to share as an entree for two.

Another thing the Castelluccis do better than nearly anyone is provide a warm and inviting dining atmosphere. Wood tables are accented with modern stainless steel chairs. Intimate nooks are created within the large space by burgundy velvet curtains. But the focal point is the dim and sexy lighting achieved with rows of simple clear glass orbs.

My knowledge of Italian wines is minimal so I asked our server for a suggestion. He came back with a couple of tastes and I chose the richer one….from Puglia, I think. As you may know, I rarely eat Italian food. I am guilty of pigeonholing this country’s cuisine into the pasta with marinara category. But there are numerous regions of Italy that do not focus on this Americanized standard. The menu at Double Zero is proof, with a variety of meat and seafood dishes like polipo, for instance….the small plate of grilled octopus with sunchoke-pancetta hash and a vibrant asparagus puree that LC and I ordered was fresh and light with a vinegary zing. No marinara in sight.

As for our main dish, I felt compelled to order a pizza, as did many others. After all, the name of the restaurant refers to the finest grade of flour used in making authentic Neopolitan pizza dough. Grant and Marie of Marie, Let’s Eat! ordered the American, Marilyn of Atlanta Etc. tried the traditional quattro stagione, while our hostess and Atlanta Foodies blogger Becca shared the maiale with her husband. Perhaps even better than my funghi pie, the maiale was topped with braised Nueske’s bacon, mushrooms, goat cheese, arugula, garlic, and fig-onion agrodolce. It was rather sweet but so delicious.

Each pizza was baked in one of their custom-tiled woodburning ovens installed by Italian craftsmen and delivered to our table with a sharp pair of scissors for cutting slices, literally. The crust was thin, crispy, and notably charred, with just enough toppings.

Those that didn’t indulge in pizza raved about their selections as well, including a lamb meatball starter ordered by Leslie from The Food and Me and a mountainous salad shared by Megan of Meals With Megan and her guest, famed photographer Lou Freeman.

No meal with LC is complete without sugar! I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to have gelato and I was curious about their cannolis after the amazing ones we had at Antico. Made locally by Highroad Craft Ice Cream, we sampled a scoop of pistachio, coffee, and caramel gelato, all of which were a little too sweet and creamy to be authentic gelato, but certainly great for ice cream. Three small crunchy cannoli shells with a light and fluffy filling were delicious, but I prefer the big ones at Antico.

There is so much more to try at Double Zero. The menu is packed with chef Chad Crete’s signature rich and decadent dishes, from the lobster pappardelle to the short rib crespelle.

This blogger dinner was great fun! LC and I really enjoyed getting to know some of my fellow bloggers and their friends and look forward to meeting again soon.

5825 Roswell Road NE 404-991-3666

Following my haute dog lunch, I continued to celebrate my birthday with food and wine at Barcelona Wine Bar. It’s the hottest new restaurant in town, experiencing its 15 minutes of uber-trendiness, making it nearly impossible to get a reservation.

You might expect this place to be the brainchild of one of Atlanta’s genius restaurateurs, but in fact, it is the seventh location, with the original six strewn about Connecticut.

Each with a vastly different decor and layout, Atlanta’s Barcelona is made for partying, with a lively bar on one side, rows of tightly packed tables on the other, and a patio with communal seating and a fireplace. Wood plank walls give the space warmth and provide a rustic contrast to the industrial white tiles with black grout that surround the open kitchen. Lighting is perfect for a sexy rendezvous.

Having been to Barcelona, Spain, a few years ago, I was expecting plates of fried seafood laden with grease, lots of boring potatoes, marinated baby fish, and meatballs with tomatoes. I know, the food in Spain is supposed to be amazing, but that’s just like saying the food in New York City is amazing. Sure it is….if you know where to go. Even with the best advice, I stumbled upon some rather unappetizing dishes in Barcelona.

But the reviews said otherwise. Me, B and C squeezed ourselves into a tiny corner table, birthday gift bags in tow. C kindly agreed to be our designated driver, so B and I began scouring the wine list for an appropriately spicy bottle of red. Perhaps a malbec or temperanillo? B asked our server to recommend one that would suit our taste and pocketbook, but he insisted that we would not be happy with the less expensive bottles and finally persuaded us to go with a Spanish cab. It was rather tasty.

We decided to order a selection of tapas to share. B and I love Brussels sprouts so we started with a bowl of them, grilled until tender with crispy charred edges. Then the octopus arrived, prepared with peppers and fingerling potatoes….great flavor.

A dish of chorizo with sweet and sour figs was certainly more sweet than sour, but delicious nonetheless. I wasn’t as impressed with the chicken empanadas or the grilled hanger steak, but B and C enjoyed them. Our final dish of mushrooms with herbed goat cheese was sublime but turned out to be one dish too many….we were stuffed.

But that didn’t stop us from ending my birthday dinner with, not one, but two desserts. Dulce de leche crepes with chocolate sauce was an enormous portion and the fleur de sel vanilla ice cream that topped them tasted like plain ol’ vanilla. A bucket of churros with chocolate dipping sauce were etherial in their lightness despite being fried dough.

Our tapas experience was just the tip of the culinary iceberg at Barcelona. Offerings include an entire selection of charcuterie and Spanish cheeses, medium plates like lobster risotto and rabbit roulade, and entrees ranging from serrano ham wrapped monkfish to pepper-rubbed filet mignon. Paella for a table of two to six is also available.
And yes, of course the restaurant serves crispy fried calamari, marinated boquerones, traditional albondigas, and patatas bravas.

It could take me a year to work through this menu. Thankfully, the fervor will have subsided by then and I will likely be able to walk in without a reservation at all.

240 N. Highland Avenue NE 404-589-1010