Hot Dish Review

During her visit, AD and I packed a year’s worth of drama in a week. Before taking her to the airport, we decided to find a restaurant nearby with a patio so we could enjoy the sunny day with a touch of Fall in the air, and enjoy a casual lunch while rehashing the events of her visit.

We decided on Cafe 640, formerly Cafe di Sol, who’s quaint patio faces a colorful section of N. Highland Avenue in the Poncey Highlands. The trees, flowers and tiny lights strung all around make guests feel like they are in a small town, but the sirens and occassional passing vagrant remind them otherwise! We chose one of the small tables near the street with the uncomfortable wooden slat chairs.

Should we have wine? Silly question. A glass of riesling for me, pinot noir for her. The three most expensive appetizers ($29 all together) sounded like an awesome clusterf*ck of flavor, perfect for sharing.

Delivered first were the panko crusted fried green tomatoes with New Orleans style BBQ shrimp. You know how I feel about fried green tomatoes. I rarely have a positive reaction to them, but often order them just to see how badly the kitchen can screw ‘em up. Of course the tomatoes were too heavily breaded, but they were not greasy. We could actually taste the tartness of the tomatoes, which was a great match to the sweet, plump shrimp.

A huge bowl of mussels and leeks in a red curry broth came out along with the “ropa vieja”, a dish of slow braised shredded flank steak on tortilla chips, then topped with a little melted aged white cheddar, fresh jalapeno slices, and drizzled with cilantro sour cream. In effect, Spanish nachos. Having just spent her last month abroad in San Sabastian, AD was interested to see how authentic this dish would taste.

The mussels were well-prepared, although I couldn’t detect much curry in the broth. That didn’t stop me from sopping up every last drop with the grilled slices of bread that were served with them.

In between slurping up shellfish, we tried the tortillas, each topped with copious amounts of tender shredded beef. The fresh, not pickled, jalapenos were fiery hot. We both loved it!

Not so pleased with the dryness of my riesling, I chose a malbec for my second glass, as did AD.

We enjoyed our lunch so much that I suggested LC and I dine there for an impromptu dinner the following week. Naturally, we had to order the ropa vieja. I knew LC would love the spicy nachos! To mix it up a bit we tried a house salad with a fantastic housemade balsamic, a stack of perfectly crispy onion rings, and a side of truffle mac ‘n’ cheese, bubbly and browned on top. A martini and a Guinness draft washed it all down.

But LC was still hungry, so we order the panna cotta to go. Needless to say, it didn’t even make it to the car. Sublime, light, and topped with fresh blueberries, we polished off the dessert in seconds.

640 N. Highland Avenue 404-724-0711

Dear HotDish readers, I have been a slacker with the blog! I have a new job at Cooper Global Transportation (like us on Facebook!) and have been travelling a lot, too. So please forgive me as I re-post a few old favorites as B and I are headed to the Hangout!
Hospitality. That is the word LC used to describe Goin’ Coastal. Sure, the watermelon jalapeno margaritas and cornbread pudding are winners, but it’s the sincere warmth of the staff that keeps us goin’ back.

After our disappointing experience at Pure, we headed back towards the Virginia Highlands. Where to go? Aha! We simultaneously said “Goin’ Coastal!” for their watermelon jalapeno margaritas and a snack since we only had an appetizer before fleeing Pure.

Even though it was after 9pm, practically every table was occupied. We chose seats at the bar, closer to the tequila! The bartender introduced himself, Webster I believe, and proceeded to make us doubles, with salt.

Made with fresh watermelon juice, lime juice, and jalapeno infused simple syrup, these margaritas are sweet, salty, and spicy all at once. However, we found this batch to be more sweet, less spicy, probably due to the variation in heat of the jalapenos. No worries, Webster added some fresh jalapenos which corrected the imbalance.

Zach Kell, one of the owners, was at the pass expediting orders, laughing and chatting with the cooks. Everyone was relaxed, things were running smoothly. We waved. He came over to say hello, remembering us from our visits and having just run into him at Aqua Vino the week before.

On to some food, LC suggested crab legs. Great idea! They came with two sides so I ordered the jalapeno cornbread pudding, of course. We chose corn on the cob for our second side.

Zach placed a huge platter on the bar, full of steamed crab legs with drawn butter and our sides. I dug into the creamy cornbread pudding as LC started crackin’ some legs. Few things can beat the satisfaction of pulling out the luscious crab meat all in one piece. Corn on the cob was buttery sweet.

Just then a server came up to the bar. It was April who waited on us on our first visit months ago. Best part? She remembered us, and even more shocking, I remembered her name!

As we continued to enjoy our meal and margaritas, Zach brought over a taste of the low country bouillabaisse, an updated version from my first tasting. I had ordered it despite its tomato-based broth, but it turned out the bigger problem was the smallish overcooked shrimp. The new version had a more intense tomato flavor but the shrimp were definitely better, plump and perfectly cooked.

Webster topped off our giant margaritas and we wiped off our hands with their nifty just-add-water towelettes. Once again, Goin’ Coastal was the perfect neighborhood spot….it’s all about the hospitality!

1021 Virginia Avenue 404-941-9117

Friday night LC and I found the dining room at JCT Kitchen jam packed, despite the torrential downpour and severe thunderstorm warning. We had an evening to ourselves and wanted to enjoy a nice adult meal at a cool place.

Surprisingly, I had never made it to JCT before. It was one of the first restaurants to lure the trendy dining crowd to this somewhat industrialized neighborhood. Everything I had heard was positive so I was excited to give it a go.

The space is open, exuding warmth and simplicity, much like its neighbors Quinones Room and Baccanalia in the same complex. Across the way is the White Provisions building home to culinary star Abattoir and right next to the original Yeah! Burger.

Seated across from each other at a two-top along the wall, LC commented that conversation was nearly impossible, given the constant chatter from tables nearby. It was true, the atmosphere was anything but intimate. We would have preferred the patio had the weather cooperated.

We started with cocktails from their creative list, utilizing spirits like bitters, bourbon and rye, which has become rather de rigeur for upscale trendy restaurants these days. I was excited to see a sloe gin fizz on the list, taking me back to my childhood when my parents hosted card games and my Mom made this drink by the pitcher.

After delivering our cocktails, our server read off an entire menu’s worth of specials. I almost stopped him, having already decided on the bacon wrapped pork loin, when he said the word “duck”. The game had instantly changed. It was a breast and confit, I assumed a leg, with an orange champagne sauce served with sauteed peppers….a weird pairing but he had me at “duck”.

But first we wanted to sample a couple of starters, the “angry” mussels and the bacon wrapped figs with blue cheese. We found both dishes to be very impressive. The figs were not baked but rather raw, sliced in half with a thick strip of chewy bacon intertwined among the halves, which rested in an intensely sharp blue cheese sauce that provided the appropriate balance to the dish. A smattering of toasted almonds added a fun crunchy element.

A medium-sized bowl of mussles arrived, steaming in their aromatic broth flavored with peppered bacon, serano chilis, and onion. Although small, the shellfish were great. I especially enjoyed dipping the crusty rustic bread in the spicy broth. We loved ‘em!

When our server checked in I switched to prosecco. LC ordered the shrimp ‘n’ grits and I went for the duck, of course. His dish was richer than the Kennedys, grits engulfed in cheeses and butter, topped with shrimp and a battered and deep fried poached egg. A week’s worth of calories and fat, but decadently delicious.

My duck, however, was not exactly what I expected. Yes, the breast was nicely displayed with a crispy skin. Based upon our server’s description, I was expecting a leg confit, but instead the breast was served on a mound of shredded confit, seasoned with the orange champagne sauced described, creating a concoction which sort of reminded me of BBQ. The oily, crispy, gaminess of the confit was entirely lost. I wasn’t thrilled about the peppers to begin with and they did little to elevate the entree.

An unexpected favorite of the evening was the side dish of corn succotash that LC ordered. Bathed in butter, it was the epitome of Summer in the South. Ironically LC had actually changed his order to the squash, but it was a happy mistake.

We decided to forego edible dessert in favor of the liquid variety upstairs at JCT Bar. An acoustic guitarist entertained the crowd of thirty-somethings inside as the drizzle continued outside. A train chugged past as we headed to the car, anxious to get home and work off the surplus calories.

1198 Howell Mill Road 404-355-2252

This gastro pub in the heart of L5P is owned by chef Nick Rutherford, who’s culinary pedigree has earned him and his establishment much praise.

Located in the long, narrow space that was once Bridgetown Grill, I can’t walk into The Porter without being transported back in time to the days when me and the boys in The Tombstones would take up residency in the big booth up front, ordering pitchers of cheap beer, Jamaican veggie patties, jerk chicken, and more beer.

Gone are the bright tropical walls and booths, replaced by warm hues of brown. It’s a cozy space condusive to sampling unusual brews and creative pub fare. And I love the little touches like serving water in Mason jars.

I’ve had stellar mac ‘n’ cheese and crazy good goat cheese fritters on previous visits. Although I’ve heard mostly positive reports on Rutherford’s entrees, I’ve yet to venture past the starters.

LC and I stopped in recently, choosing a secluded booth in the back. The Porter’s beer list can be daunting despite the fact that it is catergorized by type….430 choices from ales to stouts.

Unlike most pubs, however, The Porter’s other focus is the food. We started our visit with the obvious….goat cheese fritters which look unnervingly like cheese sticks of the frozen mozzarella variety, but are rather filled with soft, warm goat cheese. The fritters are finished with a sprinkling of black pepper and a generous drizzle of clover honey. Sweet, savory, and perfect with a beer like my Brooklyn Chocolate Stout.

Wanting to try at least one new dish, I ordered the mussels, in a simple broth made with Dogfish Head 60 Minute and tomato water. Too simple. They were delivered with a smattering of coarsely minced garlic which I found rather off-putting. The crusty bread was good but I didn’t like the broth enough to sop it up. No comparison to the amazing mussels at Top Flr.

LC tried The Porter’s take on the traditional pub meal of fish ‘n’ chips. He enjoyed the flaky fried cod but, again, I didn’t find anything above average in the flavor or presentation, although I thought it was fun that Rutherford uses Terrapin Golden Beer in the batter. Belgian fries seasoned with garlic oil were perfectly crispy, but LC didn’t care for them.

The Porter offers a few beer “flights”, inviting guests to sample beers they may not have tried before. Turns out, the flavor profiles and nuances of beer are much more complicated than wine.

And you thought beer was for dummies.

1156 Euclid Avenue 404-223-0393

For my birthday, B took me to one of our old haunts, Top Flr. We love to sit at the bar, sip a glass of wine and catch up on the drama of our very exciting lives.

Chef Shane changes up the menu occassionally, but a few dishes have remained since the restaurant opened. For instance, the mussels. I love them, bathed in a fragrant broth made with coconut milk, lime juice, and soy with hints of lemongrass, and ginger.

More recently, his addition of tender roasted Brussels sprouts as a side confirmed that he is, indeed, one of Atlanta’s most talented chefs. Their distinctive smoky flavor was so incredible even sprout haters would be enamored with this dish.

So, on my birthday visit I was excited to have those two dishes….mussels and Brussels. B ordered roasted artic char with couscous…too basic for my taste but she enjoyed it. My huge bowl of mussels was amazing as always, served with a big hunk of ciabatta for sopping.

The Brussels sprouts, however, were not the same. This new recipe, described on the menu as shredded, gratin, with bacon, creme, and fennel, featured al dente sprouts. Initially, B and I thought it was a kitchen f*ck up and sent them back. But they came out again, crunchy and covered with browned cheese. I was seriously pissed off.

Despite my disappointment, the flavor was admittedly good, so we ate them anyway. However, it’s not a dish I would come back for.

Top Flr used to own the #1 spot in the Brussels sprouts war, but with this unfortunate turn of events, I must consider their successor. Sound Table served a fantastic roasted version not long ago….hope they didn’t follow Top Flr’s bad example.

Perhaps the best Brussels will be found at a restaurant that is not even open yet….I’ll see you There!

After racing home from work to meet B Thursday evening, the two of us hopped in the HotDishMobile, dressed in our hot pants and halters, to check out my good friend BH’s party at his boutique.

A little free cheap red wine and catching up with old friends like RD and LB was fun, then we were on our way to our regular haunt, Top Flr, for a bite to eat and a lot more wine, of the not-so-cheap variety.

Our friend CL was outside with one of the owners, JM and his wife. I needed a drink so I sat at the bar inside and ordered a glass of red, a blend I recognized from my trip to the Priorat region of Spain.

The bar at Top Flr can be a communal experience. B was still outside visiting with JM and CL so I was left to chat with my neighbors, on their first date and things weren’t going too well. He gave me a bite of his duck….great flavor but the skin isn’t rendered, leaving a pretty thick layer of raw fat.

Having skipped a proper dinner, I was thinking I would order my usual mussels in coconut soy broth. There are perhaps only two or three dishes on Top Flr’s menu that I have not tried. Although Shane makes changes to dishes based upon seasonal availability of produce, much of it is static, which is quite alright with me. It’s nice to know you can count on the mussels or mac & cheese when the craving strikes.

On Thursday, however, there were a couple of new items, one of them taken straight out of my culinary wet dream….duck confit, stewed figs, and frissee. Shut the f*ck up! I decided to try the other new dish as well, quinoa with tomatoes. The salad was awesome but the quinoa was dry and a little boring, most of it eaten by the crazy dude next to me….with his fingers.

About that time B checked out. A chick named Anna took her seat to my left and we eventually decided to split a dessert, bread pudding with pan-fried bananas. I’m not a fan of banana desserts so the fruit was thankfully not incorporated into the pudding itself, but rather, served on the side.

Next up, three guys from Chicago in town for business. The concierge at The Georgian Terrace recommended Top Flr….a surprising response given the restaurant’s underground vibe. On my second glass of wine, I was more than happy to offer my opinion on what they should order to eat, despite the fact that they had already eaten dinner.

White bean hummus, the mussels, and duck confit pizza are three of Top Flr’s standout dishes. The guys ordered all three, and two of the pizzas.

Drizzled with chili oil and served with crisped pita, the hummus is fragrant and slightly spicy. A tiny dish of olives on the side adds a salty note. The mussels rest in a dreamy broth, redolent of coconut milk, soy, and fresh cilantro. A huge chunk of crusty bread comes alongside for dunking. Duck confit, applewood smoked bacon, portobello mushrooms, pesto, and gooey melted cheese top a flavorful hand-tossed pizza crust….absolute comfort food.

Seated in the middle of the group, I gleefully helped myself to some of everything. About half of one of the pizzas ended up going home with me, making a scrumptious lunch the next day.

And for dinner I would be attending a Dinner Party at the guy’s potential new space, with their new chef! More on that tomorrow….

Wow! I can’t believe it’s been a week since me and B had dinner at El Farallon in Cabo San Lucas. Its spectacular setting overlooking the ocean along the cliffs of the Pedregal Mountains makes it one of the most romantic destinations I have ever visited. Too bad I wasn’t there with a hot man! Ladies, this is where you want to be when your guy asks you to marry him.

The Baja Peninsula is known for its abundance of fresh seafood. El Farallon brings in the catches of the day from the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez and displays them by the kitchen so diners can make their selections.

Having had enough tequila throughout the day to tranquilize a gang of lucha libres, we switched it up to champagne. Seated near the rocky cliff wall surrounded by the warm glow of candles, the weather was perfect. Then along came CG with a bottle of champagne in hand. He escorted us to see the “boat display” to choose our fish, but we both had lobster tunnelvision.

El Farallon has a set five course menu that begins with chips and guacamole made in a traditional molcajete, chunky and delicious. The next course was mussels in a tomato broth. Both B and I dislike tomato with fish so although the mussels were good, it was not my favorite dish. The guacamole was so good I requested a second helping.


A trio of appetizers were delivered. Seabean salad was rather forgettable (I, in fact, couldn’t remember it). Seabass ceviche was tasty but, again, had tomato in it which I found a little unusual. Crispy fried calamari was the winner of the three.

I don’t remember ever seeing a menu. This is unfortunate because having it in front of me now, I see we could have ordered the mixed grill of fish, which includes a lobster. Then we could have tried lots of different fish, but rather, we ordered two lobsters, each one the size of my head (too much of a good thing?)

For her sides, B chose roasted potatoes and grilled asparagus, which she said were very flavorful. My grilled corn was sweet and salty with a satisfying toothesome quality….amazing. I also tried the cilantro rice merely because it had the word “cilantro” in it. Our lobsters were grilled and succulent served with a selection of sauces. B asked for drawn butter that we both dipped into. One of the sauces, most likely the chile ajo, was good and spicy.

There were two choices for dessert and I believe I chose the arroz con leche, but it never arrived. The bill did, however, with each lobster having a $20 upcharge beyond the $80 prix fixe. Thanks for the heads up, Senor Server.

Despite the misunderstandings and missed desserts, it was still an unforgettable meal, at an unforgettable place.

A few days ago I found myself at Top Flr once again. TL met me at the bar where we shared some laughs and a few glasses of wine….Easton zin for me and a cab for her.

And, of course, we ate. Although the menu has undergone a few tweaks recently, I am still very familiar with most of the dishes from starters to entrees. We decided to share the white bean hummus. Served with toasted pita triangles and a dish of huge bright green olives and tiny nicoise, the hummus was a delicious start and remains one of their most popular menu items.

But I always forget how totally awesome their mussels are! I had them the very first time I visited with d years ago, and have had them on numerous occasions since. I ordered them as my entree Thursday with a side of crispy spaetzle with mushrooms. Bathed in a sublime coconut milk and soy broth, the mussels were particularly fat. A huge chunk of ciabatta waited to sop up every last drop of the broth.

It was hard not to order the mac ‘n’ cheese, but when asked, PLB recommended the spaetzle. Being a German chick I had to try it. A medley of mushrooms and roasted shallots lent an earthy element to the rich pasta.

TL chose light and healthy gazpacho and salmon.

As I polished off the last lonely shellfish, I finally handed over the long-awaited article to PLB, as promised, but not before he bet me a thousand dollars that I forgot to bring it. In lieu of the cash he offered two seats at the dinner party on May 1st in Piedmont Park. Even though they are technically only worth $190, they may prove to be priceless.

The Westside is exploding! From Abattoir to Miller Union, art galleries to furniture stores, The West Egg and Baccanalia now have a new slew of gentrified neighbors. Bocado is the latest boom….ST and I visited Saturday night. The staff was more than accommodating as our asses arrived an hour late.

Brian Lewis, the owner of Bocado, is not British but he begs the description (spoken with a British accent) of a “brilliant fellow”. His personal attention throughout our meal was charming. He recommended a hearty, spicy red and does a stellar job with the wine program, owing in part (I’m sure) to his family’s vineyard.

Bocado means mouthful in Portugese, although the menu is entirely American. I don’t get that.

The space is modern, spare, fresh. ST described it as vibrant. I like that. The crowd is hip and they know it. Light wood tables and matching mod chairs rest upon the ubiquitous concrete floors. Some walls sport shades of green. Only a tiny vase of sage and thyme decorate each table. Stainless steel lamps hang above the central servers’ station. I can imagine it will be awesome to sit on the patio here in the Spring.

We started with mussels and brussels, not because it rhymes (although that would be a compelling reason) but because I love both. Bocado’s mussels rest in a white wine broth with shallots, basil, and chilies. Not bad, not great, a little plain I guess. Unfortunately, I could not detect any chilies which would have added some much-needed zing. Brussels sprouts boasted a vinegary tang from the capers, and were further dressed with thyme, parmesan, and tiny croutons. A bit undercooked and underseasoned for my taste.

It’s impossible not to compare Bocado to Miller Union, particularly since B and I ordered clams (served in their shells like mussels) and brussels there as well. Sorry, but Miller Union kicks Bocado’s ass. Their clam’s broth was a heady combination of bacon and fennel, the brussels were soft, charred in bacon drippings with herbs.

As a third starter I considered the veal cheek with creamy polenta or the crab fritters with an Asian salad, but ended up with the damn foie gras even though it was au torchon. I don’t even like that preparation but I still could not resist! It was the sweet potato and date condiment that convinced me. Again, disappointment reared its ugly head. The slice of foie gras sat upon a condiment that tasted only of applesauce. Chicken liver “goodness” comes with applesauce….maybe they served me the wrong liver to see if I knew the difference? Hmmm. Regardless, we spread it on the toasts and ate it.

On to the entrees there are a couple of items that I’ve been reading about….one blogger loves the burger stack, another loves the pimento cheese sandwich. I would never order a pimento cheese sandwich without a strong recommendation but I had to see what all the fuss was about. The components of this sandwich are roasted poblano, pimento cheese, bacon, and fried green tomato….sounds like a clusterfuck to me. Well, it wasn’t. It was kickass! The warmth of the roasted pepper, fried green tomato and toasted bread just barely melting the pimento cheese, served with a flavorful bowl of tomato bisque.

The burger stack was similarly drool worthy. A stack of three thin yet juicy patties with American cheese and housemade pickles, served with pretty good fries. I like my burgers thick, cooked medium, but since this is a stack of patties they are more medium-well to well. Not as good as The Nook’s awesome burger with smoked gouda and bacon but still worth a try.

Other plates include a flatiron steak, Chesapeake flounder and oyster stew. Four artisinal cheeses are offered as well. Executive chef Todd Ginsberg, formerly of Trois, stopped by our table. Unpretentious, a genuinely nice guy.

Dessert looked better than it tasted…..chocolate pudding with peanut butter whipped cream served in a Mason jar. The texture of the pudding was extremely dense, almost like fudge. It was just OK.

I really want Bocado to thrive but I fear the fierce competition in this hot neighborhood could suffocate it before it has a chance to find its identity.

887 Howell Mill Road 404-815-1399 www.bocadoatlanta.com