Hot Dish Review

With his burger “boutique” Flip in full swing, it wasn’t much of a surprise to learn Richard Blais’ next concept was to elevate the lowly hot dog.

Although not the owner of HD1, he did consult on the menu to develop unusual combinations like the Kenturkey, a turkey sausage topped with tomato-pimento marmalade, mornay, bacon, and parmesan, and to reinvent the classics like the chili cheese dog.

I recently had the misfortune of having a birthday and wanted to placate myself with a leisurely and fattening lunch. My neighbor LG joined me as we ventured down the street to sample the weiners. The austere storefront leads to a modern industrial interior, with pops of color here and there. Vintage sodas like Nehi Orange and Cheerwine are nestled in ice by the register where guests place their orders.

So many dogs to choose from! Should I try the bratwurst or the lobster roll? Perhaps the Merguez, a lamb sausage topped with currants, yogurt, and minted cucumber. Nevermind. I hate mint and cucumber. LG considered trying Pigs in the Sheets, one of the alternatives to a dog, a puff pastry stuffed with curried pork and mango sauce, but instead opted for the Little Italy made with locally crafted fennel sausage, grilled radicchio, fontina and a drizzle of San Marzano ketchup.

Completely out of character, I ordered the Fried Chicken Dog, a breaded, deep-fried chicken weiner topped with sweet potato jam, hot sauce and mac ‘n’ cheese, which I requested on the side. Served on a hefty Holeman & Finch bun, I had to unhinge my jaw to take a bite. Crunchy, spicy, and sweet all in one bite, the dog was a winner, although it was pretty greasy.

LG’s dog was even better than mine. She paired it was the house salad of baby romaine, pears, and radish with blue cheese dressing…a nice size bowl for just $4. Other side offerings include waffle fries, homemade pickles, and pork ‘n’ beans with bacon crumbles.

I had to try the chocolate espresso bread pudding, after all, it was my birthday! LG had given up sugar for lent and wouldn’t help me eat it so I took half of it home. Again, a good size serving for just $3, and better than most fancy restaurant desserts that are twice the price.

664 N. Highland Avenue NE 404-805-1127

There’s nothing worse than a chain restaurant with a menu so all-encompassing that it is literally a book….except for an imposter that tries to emulate this concept.

With pages of sandwiches, pastas, entrees, soups, and the tell-tale cheesecakes, Copeland’s dishes mimic those of the dreaded Cheesecake Factory, served in epic portions seemingly designed to triple diners’ cholesterol levels.

Sadly, this appeals to much of middle America. Over 100 menu items, including 16 flavors of cheesecake, gives the illusion of “something for everyone” when, in fact, common sense will tell you that it is impossible to execute that many dishes well. It’s hit or miss at best.

Among the horrific choices are two kinds of “pasta pizza bowls”, linguine, seafood, and sauce served in a cheese pizza bowl. Are you serious? Aunt Gladys can forget about getting into her Walmart bikini.

I met LC and little T at Atlantic Station recently to shop at H & M. It was lunch time and the options were somewhat bleak, so we did what most people would do….went to Copeland’s.

With the original four locations in Louisiana, the restaurant offers several Cajun and Creole dishes. But the menu also represents Italian, Mexican, and Asian cuisines, as well as homestyle Southern fried chicken and meat loaf.

Marathon holiday eating left us wanting something light so LC tried the Thai shrimp wrap while little T and I both ordered the chicken and avocado club on toasted brioche. His side of onion strings and our sweet potato fries, however, tipped the scale toward indulgence.

Our plates arrived with enormous sandwiches and overflowing with our greasy sides. I immediately noticed that our chicken clubs were not toasted, but rather grilled, requiring multiple napkins. Inside the butter-soaked exterior, the sandwich was layered with generous amounts of lettuce, tomato, avocado, Swiss cheese and bacon. The grilled chicken breasts, although tender, were overly salted.

On the other hand, the sweet potato fries were quite good, with a sweet glaze lightly drizzled over them. LC’s onion straws provided a satisfying crunch and flavor, but were room temperature upon arrival. Much like our sandwiches, the filling of his wrap was much better than the wrap itself, made with tough pita bread. I took a bite and noted that the shrimp tasted fishy, only slightly disguised by their surrounding lettuce, scallions, and crispy Asian noodles.

Our server, bless her heart, listened to our complaints and sent the manager over, who comp’d two of the three sandwiches. And then, per her training, she asked if we had room for cheesecake. No sweetie, not today….not ever.

265 18th Street 404-815-8800

I’m a city chick. I grew up in a small town and expect little from them in way of culture, diversity, sophistication….you get the picture. So Imagine my surprise when a colleague and I visited several locations in Cartersville and discovered a thriving mini metropolis….Mayberry style.

The new part of town near the interstate was as unimpressive as any suburb, with every ubiquitous retailer and restaurant chain you can think of. It was the quaint historic town center that charmed us.

Driving through it we spotted a cute corner store and deli and decided to stop for lunch there rather than Chic-fil-a. Called Swheat Market, the space was country chic, with mix ‘n match repurposed furnishings creating a warm and inviting atmosphere. But unlike its country cousins, this deli was on trend, using all organic produce, also sold in their market along with other natural products. And there was no shortage of patrons, dining on specialty sandwiches, soups, and a selection of vegetarian options.

Being unapologetic omnivores, FP chose the grilled chicken salad sandwich and I couldn’t resist their classic BLT, made with extra-thick sliced peppered bacon, and lots of fresh L and T, piled on toasted sourdough with gobs of mayo. We split a side of sweet potato fries which were unfortunately on my plate, so chances are the split wasn’t quite fair. The bread that held our sandwiches together was pleasingly crispy as were the sweet potato fries.

If you find yourself in that neck of the woods, give it a try. All I can say is….swheat!

5 E. Main Street, Cartersville, GA 770-607-0067

L-tryptophan coma, round 2:

If you’re like me, you’ve got some leftover turkey from Thanksgiving. Who doesn’t? I bagged up individual servings and stashed them in the freezer to use on salads (instead of chicken) and for this yummy turkey salad, adapted from a recipe for curried egg salad that I found in one of my Mom’s Health magazines.

I’ve been buying the curried chicken salad at Whole Foods for years, so this is my homemade interpretation. It’s one of those recipes that you can add ingredients to taste, depending on what you have on hand:

4 oz. cooked turkey, shredded
3 tblsp. Greek yogurt
1 tblsp. finely chopped green pepper
1 tblsp. chopped celery
1/2 tsp. curry powder
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
dash of salt
1 tsp. dried cranberries (optional)

Mix it up! You could experiment with herbs too, like parsley or cilantro. Pinenuts or almonds would also add textural interest (and calories).

The first time I served it simply on a bed of field greens. But it was even better with a spinach salad dressed with red wine vinegar, olive oil, and black pepper. I’m sure it would make a fine sandwich on toasted wheat or ciabatta too!

Recently, I’ve found myself at quite a few business lunches. Eating is not the main focus, as the meal is often an extention of the actual meeting, peppered with plenty of negotiating disguised as playful banter.

However, it is rather intriguing to analyze who orders what and how they eat it. It is somewhat of an experiment in nutrition knowledge and dining etiquette when out with a group that are strangers on a personal level. Who knew my manager was allergic to shellfish? (note to self), or that the guy I email twenty times a day is a vegetarian? And there’s always one poor guy that holds his fork like he’s gripping the handle of a shovel.

A group of us, some from Universal Orlando and the rest from my office, recently had lunch at Marlow’s Tavern. There are now seven locations and I couldn’t tell you which one it was….perhaps Duluth or Vinings? The only table large enough to accommodate our group of eight was on the patio, where we sat in the sweltering heat with an occasional breeze to cool us off. Each of us went through a pitcher of drinks, from iced tea to Coke.

LC always takes charge with the ordering of appetizers for the table. This time he selected asparagus fries and the shrimp flatbread, which I was considering for my entree. Asparagus fries are just what you’d expect, a silly excuse to fry another innocent vegetable, tricking the average person into thinking they are eating healthy.

On the other hand, the flatbread was crisp and light, topped with a little melted cheese, spinach, chopped tomatoes and shrimp….a great option for a light lunch.

A few guys ordered chicken paninis, there was one fish sandwich special, and two orders of shrimp and grits. Servings are enormous, perfect for your typical fat suburban Americans, which seems to be the restaurant’s target market. Described as tavern fare with an upscale twist, the shrimp and grits is a good example, served with two white cheddar grits cakes atop a bed of spinach (there’s that healthy vegetable serving!), then topped with shrimp and doused with a creamy sauce beure blanc. I wish I had taken a photo, this massive meal could sink a ship!

My colleague/boyfriend LC (yes, I am officially insane) and I both ordered the “infamous” fish tacos, in an effort to eat light. I would have ordered a salad but the best option was the steak and blue cheese, similar to the lunch I had with this same group the day before at Ted’s Montana Grill (post coming soon).

Having had a horrific version of them at Sunset Cove the week before, there was little chance that these could be worse. Just because you serve a meat with flour tortillas does not make it automatically a taco.

However, just like salad doesn’t mean low-calorie, fish isn’t always healthy. Although the huge pieces of tilapia were grilled and blackened (loads of sodium), not fried, they were encased in a fried flour shell, accented with romaine, black bean and corn salsa, and a big dollop of smoked chili cream. I requested avocado and cheese for my tacos, after all, what are tacos without cheese? And a small salad as my side, which was topped with feta cheese. LC ordered the jalapeno corn grits as his side.

We both enjoyed the tacos but I still can’t figure out why they are called “infamous”.

Now that I have visited my parents in Florida a few times, the dining experiences are already on repeat. The same three or four restaurants appear on my blog every time.

To switch it up a bit, me and my Mom ate at Cafe on the Avenue for lunch rather than dinner, while the guys were still on the golf course.

Cafe on the Avenue is the type of place where you will find “ladies who lunch”. You know the type. They browse the antique shops nearby, perhaps picking up a sweet gift for a grandchild’s birthday.

The atmosphere is casual yet somewhat proper, with copious crown moldings and vintage fixtures. Mom suggested we split one of their huge salads, so we ordered the Avenue Salad, baby greens topped with pears, blackberries, pineapple, mandarin oranges, pecans, and blue cheese with a raspberry walnut vinaigrette. Too much fruit if you ask me. It was $10.25 as is, but I needed some protein, so we added grilled chicken for an extra $3.75 for a subtotal of $14….ouch.

I was hoping the size matched the price as I have no problem putting away a bucket of lettuce. Served in a beautiful blue vintage bowl, the salad was substantial but short of huge. We split it at the table, my Mom taking much of the fruit while I took most of the chicken which was unfortunately dry, like it had sat under a heat lamp for hours. Sweet canned fruit was matched by the syrupy dressing, proving that too much of a good thing is….well, too much. The best part of the salad was the blue cheese that paired well with fruit. Unlike the last time she ordered it, the salad was a disappointing composition.

The restaurant offers several mayo-based salads like smoked turkey, egg, shrimp, and chicken plus a short list of sandwiches including a burger, club, and wraps.

Next time I’ll steal the bowl.

631 N. Citrus Avenue 352-795-3656

Road trips provide the perfect excuse for eating total crap, after all, there’s no time for fine dining. LC and I drove to Florida last week, making efficient stops that satisfied the three major travel issues all at once….food, gas, and restroom.

Luckily, I drive a hybrid so the cost of gas is minimal. The first tank got us to Gainesville, Florida. We took an exit that displayed the standard fast food fare….McDonald’s, Wendy’s, Arby’s, Chick-Fil-A…but neither of us were craving their cookie-cutter sandwiches.

That’s when he spotted the Pizza Hut, who’s re-branding has turned the once family friendly neighborhood pizza place into a pizza and wings delivery service. Few of the locations offer inside dining, but the ones that do rely heavily on the buffet. It was 1pm, so we thought it would be a quick alternative to a burger.

There were four or five mostly-eaten pizzas on the buffet, plus two pastas, none of which looked very fresh. I should have known there would not be a pizza with the toppings I would order on a buffet. Our server said it would only take about 8 minutes, so we decided to order a pizza off the menu.

Normally both of us prefer their thin and crispy crust, however, I had an urge for something more substantial. When Pizza Hut first introduced their signature pan pizza, me and my Mom would get a personal pan pizza every time we went to the mall. Supreme. The crust was light on the inside, crispy and greasy on the outside….a real artery clogger.

To keep it simple we ordered a medium supreme pan pizza with the addition of black olives. Service was quick enough, but the pitstop ended up taking 45 minutes nonetheless. The pizza tasted just as I remembered, with minimal tomato sauce, a good scattering of toppings and cheese, melted and browned around the edges of the crust. We both added a good dose of hot pepper flakes and parmasan cheese.

I kept my splurge to only two slices, savoring every greasy bite. LC commented that it didn’t have much taste, but isn’t that the Pizza Hut standard? I sorta enjoy the generic flavor.

We took the leftovers and continued on our way, singing along to classic rock tunes and talking about everything. Sometimes road trips are less about the destination, more about the journey.

Now that my office is near Buford Highway, tempting tacos and fiery pho are just moments away. Last week, I invited my friend BG out to lunch for his birthday. His Mom is Vietnamese, so I let him choose the restaurant….Dai Loi #2. Ironically, it is the same one I have visited several times, located in one of dozens of Asian strip malls on the street.

The decor is not nearly as gawdy as I remembered, save for the huge crystal chandeliers. Walls are turquoise and deep red, an unusual combination that I really like. Faux marble tables are cluttered with Sriracha and other condiments.

No need to waste time perusing the menu….the numerous photos won’t help you. All you need to know is you are ordering pho Thai, the one with beef and no tripe. Unless, of course, you want the long clear tendrils of grizzly tripe.

BG and I ordered a small bowl each. The traditional accompaniments arrived in seconds…a plate of bean sprouts, fresh jalapeno slices, basil, and cilantro and limes. Moments later, two steaming bowls of pho were delivered. Customizing your pho can take some time, adding some hot sauce, maybe a bit of hoisin sauce, and copious handfuls of herbs.

Pho is made with oxtail broth, flavored with onion and cilantro. Very thin slices of raw beef are added at the end, cooking in the hot broth while the bowl is enroute to your table. A tangle of rice noodles rest at the bottom of the bowl. Slurp them up with your chopsticks along with a tender slice of beef, crunchy bean sprouts, and fragrant herbs. Wipe your brow as the sriracha takes effect.

I love Vietnamese food, from pho to lettuce wraps with grilled meats dipped in fish sauce, it is a cuisine rich in flavor and tradition, and naturally healthy.

At lunch with BG, I caught a glimpse of the dessert menu and commented on how I crave the authentic dessert drink made of crushed ice, red beans (or bean paste), coconut milk, and jelly candies. Sounds like a freakshow, right? Turns out, BG finds the weird riot of textures somewhat disconcerting. I had to order one to go.

Dai Loi’s dessert contained two kinds of beans, one large white variety and the typical red beans, a.k.a. azuki, both canned in high fructose corn syrup specifically for use in sweets. The addition of crushed peanuts was a pleasant surprise. Chewy, crunchy, wonderfully weird.

4186 Buford Highway 404-633-2111

Few restaurants, other than those in hotels, serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner. That degree of service seems daunting if not a tad overly ambitious. Some restaurants, like Serpas for instance, add brunch after a successful year of dinner service.

Not so for Hugh Acheson of Empire State South. Having gained notoriety in Athens for his farm fresh menus at Five and Ten and The National, his much anticipated Atlanta debut kicked off with three squares a day. I joined BB there for lunch on Friday to discuss his upcoming project and share a bit of industry gossip.

Located on the ground floor of the 999 Peachtree building, the space includes a quaint courtyard with bocce ball. Inside, the space is painted a deep shade of blue with wood floors, accented with brown leather banquettes and rustic country-style light fixtures….modern Southern, like the food.

I wasn’t planning to drink at lunch but very little arm-twisting was required before I was inquiring about the character of each red wine offered by the glass. We settled on a glass of the Branham cab and another of the Le Paradou grenache/syrah blend.

A little jar of pork rillette was a good match with the wine, however I found the toast too greasy. All three of the people seated at the table adjacent to ours had ordered “Super-food”, a silly name for a weird combination of hanger steak, beets, pistachios, wheatberries with feta, roasted Winter squash, mixed local beans and peas, and dressed radishes, all served on a bed of local lettuces. My bet was that BB would follow suit.

Initially he was leaning toward the arugula salad but in the end, I won the bet. Predictably, I ordered the crisp duck leg confit under the heading “Meat and Three”. Next to the heading the menu directs diners to pick two sides and a daily bread. The sides of the day were not thrilling. I was hoping for some preparation of sweet potatoes or Brussels sprouts but none were offered. I chose the collards with ham hock and wheatberries with feta-cranberry.

My duck confit and sides arrived with an enormous slab of Texas toast. I had neglected to choose a “daily bread” because there wasn’t a list of breads on the menu, but I assure you I wouldn’t have chosen this one, so dense it was closer to pound cake than bread.

I was quite pleased with my duck leg, its exceedingly tender meat falling off the bone beneath the mostly crispy skin. I love the toothsome quality of wheatberries. These were served warm, dotted with semi-sweet cranberries. Feta was MIA on my plate, but BB’s wheatberries were topped with a good bit of it.

Then there were the collards, perhaps the best I’ve ever had. Having grown up in the South, that is quite a statement. Rich with chunks of ham, there was a subtle smokiness and a distinct tang of vinegar. Just damn perfect.

BB enjoyed his hanger steak, cooked medium, and the accompanying beets in particular. The steak was nice but my favorite thing on his plate were the dressed watermelon radishes, much like the paper-thin sliced assortment at Miller Union.

Other meats on offer were an airline chicken breast, grilled pork loin, and a pan roasted Carolina trout. Fingerling potatoes, field peas with rice and fennel-apple slaw rounded out the selection of sides.

We ordered two more glasses of wine, intentially confusing which was which, sipping each in turn. I requested a dessert menu, despite seeing an unappetizing slice of red velvet cake on a table nearby. You may already know how I feel about cake so suffice it to say I would not order anything who’s flavor is a color. Sure, red velvet cake is as Southern as fried pie but one would think Acheson’s love of natural and organic produce might discourage his pastry chef Chris Marconi from putting a dessert on the menu that relies on unnatural food coloring. Other sweets included bourbon pecan pie and a buttermilk chess tart that might have been good if we had more time.

Empire State South joins Atlanta’s new breed of restaurants who’s menus evolve with the seasons. If you like that trend, you’re gonna like ESS.

With all the buzz surrounding Hector Santiago’s sandwich shop below Pura Vida, I finally got there for lunch on Friday to see what all the fuss was about.

Rumor has it that Hector himself is making the sandwiches at Super Pan Latino. When I arrived he was indeed there, just not behind the counter. The staff was super friendly as I made a couple of inquiries about the selections.

Having studied the menu and read the reviews, I already knew I would order either the serrano ham and manchego or the pork belly. It was a chilly day so the latter won out because it was hot sandwich.

I knew what I was getting into even without the reviews proclaiming this particular sandwich’s greasiness. It’s pork belly for God’s sake!

For the uninituated, pork belly is bacon before it is sliced, layers of fat alternating with layers of porky goodness. Hector smokes the meat which is tucked inside two little steamed coconut buns drizzled with tamarind sauce, aji coban sambal and topped with shaved cabbage and cilantro.

My first bite of the crispy end yielded both meat and fat with half of the cabbage and cilantro. I didn’t get any of the fiery sauce until I was almost finished with the half since it was at the bottom of the bun. I would have liked a copious amount of the crunchy cabbage and there can never be enough cilantro. It came off a little plain due to the minimal amount of sauces and toppings.

I continued working on my sandwich, pulling the tender strings of pork away from the fat with my greasy little fingers. It was a messy but delicious task.

The quirky space is only open Tuesday through Friday 11:30-2:30. Diners place their orders up the stairs to the left, and can find a table in the dining area downstairs. Super Pan is clearly a labor of love for Hector.

I cringe to even say this, but just in case you’ve been living in a cave in Guatamala for the last two years, Hector Santiago was a contestant on Top Chef a couple of seasons back….the same year Woodfire’s Kevin Gillespie almost won it.

Hector stopped by to say hello and sent a cupcake to my table. Nice. I will surely return to sample more of the menu!

1057 Blue Ridge Avenue 404-477-0379