Hot Dish Review

From Mary Reynold’s PR machine:

(HotDish Note….How many restaurants can be based upon sustainable local produce? I have not visited Miller Union, yet, so this is not an endorsement, just news folks. If you have tried it, let me know what you think!)

Miller Union Now Serves a Seasonal Harvest on Atlanta’s Westside

Atlanta restaurant industry authorities Steven Satterfield and Neal McCarthy open Miller Union

ATLANTA (November 12, 2009) – Serving an evolving menu defined by the offerings of local farmers, Miller Union is now open on Atlanta’s Westside, welcoming Atlantans to enjoy the natural flavors of the season’s freshest fare. Established Atlanta Chef and Co-Owner Steven Satterfield leads the kitchen, while experienced General Manager and Co-Owner Neal McCarthy directs the front of the house, creating a seamless dining experience defined by sustainability. Miller Union’s unique dining space sits on the site once occupied by Miller Union Stockyards, contributing to the revitalization of Atlanta’s Westside.

“At Miller Union, we allow the season’s ingredients to lead us in the creation of an ever-changing menu,” said Satterfield. “We are confident that the dining concept will thrive in one of Atlanta’s most dynamic neighborhoods that is developing a culture of artistic creativity and outstanding dining.”

The Chef

Allowing the season’s natural harvest to define his menu, Co-Owner and Chef Steven Satterfield is inspired by the offerings of local farmers and respects their produce with simple preparation. Like the farmers from whom he sources his ingredients, Satterfield is adept in his craft and has a grasp of the subtle nuances of each ingredient’s flavor profile. Satterfield’s distinctive approach to preparation highlights the pure flavors of the ingredients while also showcasing his beautifully presented, innovative combinations that redefine southern-inspired fare. The previous executive sous chef at the acclaimed restaurant Watershed and member of Georgia Organics, Southern Foodways Alliance, Green Foodservice Alliance and Slow Food Atlanta, Satterfield is deeply connected to Atlanta’s progressive culinary industry.

The Cuisine

Miller Union’s constantly evolving menu celebrates sustainable southern-inspired fare simply prepared to emphasize quality and freshness. A simple, rustic style defines the preparation at Miller Union where uncomplicated methods benefit the flavors and textures of purely delicious ingredients from Georgia and the Southeast. The menu develops organically based on the dairy, meat, cheeses, herbs and produce of local farmers, offering guests a unique culinary experience at every meal including the special family style dinner that Satterfield will host each Tuesday. The cuisine incorporates tastes of the South, embracing a culinary genre that offers a vast and diverse bounty every season. Sample menu items may include simple fresh salads, farm egg baked in celery cream with rustic bread, roast guinea hen with autumn squash and local greens and Georgia apple tart with burnt honey ice cream.

The Décor

Coupling the character and richness of its Westside Atlanta history with modern design, Miller Union was transformed by Atlanta-based architecture and interior design firm ai3. Weathered woods, steel windows, pantry cabinets and patterned wall coverings create an intimate and welcoming atmosphere. Bound together by the rustic modern theme, the 70-seat interior and covered patio offers guests a range of dining experiences. Whitewashed 14-foot cabinets throughout the indoor dining spaces showcase Miller Union’s unique wine list and provide an ever changing backdrop to each room.

Located at 999 Brady Avenue, Atlanta, Ga., 30318, Miller Union serves dinner Monday through Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. Call 678.733.8550 to make a reservation, or visit Miller Union online at www.millerunion.com for more information.

Named for former Atlanta mayor Livingston Mims (OK, I’m not a history buff but I never heard of this guy, however, he sounds like he was a partier back in his day!), this place has everything going for it. Located at the gorgeously restored Georgian Terrace, the setting is subdued elegance. With a view of the Fox Theater and the busy corner of Peachtree and Ponce, it is the quintessential landmark dining experience.

The chef is Gary Mennie who spent ten years at Canoe then opened Taurus to much initial success. But Atlanta sprouts new, hot restaurants seemingly every week, even in this economy, so it’s hard to sustain the hotness. He gave it quite a go!

The Georgian Terrace hosted Harvest Midtown on Sunday, the annual food and wine fair sponsored by Barrelman, the wine store connected to Eno. So, naturally Eli Kirshtein, Eno chef and current Top Chef contestant, was there, as was Hector Santiago from Pura Vida, who Padma already asked to “pack his knives and go”. I gushed to him briefly about his duck maduros and my love affair with his establishment. Keep in mind this was after 3 hours of wine tasting (and no, for $45 I do not spit it out for God’s sake!)

B was my companion for Harvest Midtown. We have found ourselves at Livingston on many occasions, drinking, dining, requesting the to-die-for short rib ravioli at midnight! (John, the manager, made it happen). Yes, we are regulars. We ran into chef Mennie’s awesome sous chef Zeb Stevenson repeatedly, finally introducing us to Mennie as we sipped our last glasses of wine on the terrace.

The menu here focuses on local produce and proteins, the trend du jour, although one surely can’t complain about farm fresh veggies and supporting local farmers. My family had a small farm every summer and I picked okra, squash, corn. Me and my Mom canned green beans. Vegetables had flavor, and that’s what you’ll find at places like Livingston and Abattoir.

The short rib ravioli appetizer here is delectable. Filled with savory meat the ravioli rest in a bit of broth with sweet notes from acacia honey and a hint of horseradish, creating the perfect balance and making this dish one of my favorites in town. (The most amazing thing about this post is that I don’t have a photo of the ravioli….ridiculous!) Duck croquettes are tasty as well, set upon dollops of pureed sweet potato.

On one visit we split the rabbit and a side of brussels sprouts served in the cutest little individual saucepan. Both of us already had some prosecco and a couple of glasses of A to Z pinot noir so I can’t recall the exact preparation of the rabbit but I do remember we enjoyed it. B has had the veal with cauliflower gratin, I have tried the pork with Vidalia tart and peach mustarda which was short on delivering the sweet/savory combination that I craved. Didn’t care for the chopped salad that everyone raves about or the lemony grits. Another salad with arugula and pecorino was simple and satisfying.

The desserts have been quite good, however, the best came at Harvest Midtown where we met the adorable pastry chef Derrick. His apple crumble was the best bite of the show and will hopefully be on the Fall menu!

Zeb promised a seared foie gras on the new Fall menu as well….you know I’ll be back for that!