Hot Dish Review

Years ago, Sunday brunch was a weekly tradition I shared with a variety of friends, almost always ordering the hangover cure of eggs benedict with extra hollandaise. These days, I rarely leave my house early enough for brunch on Sundays. However, my birthday fell on a Sunday this year so I thought I would enjoy a special brunch, making a reservation at Empire State South for 12:15pm, giving us just enough time to get settled before alcohol service begins and I order my first mimosa.

My birthday spanking, administered by LC, took a bit longer than expected, so we arrived a few moments late and were escorted to an undesirable table in the center of the dining room. I preferred something more cozy, and closer to the alcohol, so we headed to the bar.

My past experiences at ESS, owned by unibrowed celebrity chef Hugh Acheson, include an amazing lunch and memorable dinner so I was anticipating (there’s that word again) a fantastic brunch. When reading the menu, it can be puzzling to figure out what Acheson or his chef Ryan Smith will do with an ingredient that seems out of place, like kimchi with oysters for example, but it is these unexpected combinations and somewhat experimental cooking that lead to the sensational flavors and textures I’ve come to expect from these guys.

The only starter I want at brunch is coffee, but LC saw the pimento cheese with bacon marmalade and decided to try it. Having already had my caffeine at home, I ordered my first birthday mimosa at precisely 12:30pm.

There were three brunch dishes that piqued my interest, so I ordered two of them with the intention of sharing. The most intriguing was the lamb belly with Anson Mill grits, sorghum, coddled egg, mache, and its duo of mystery ingredients, pickled ginger, and peanuts. I was excited to see how these flavors would come together. I was also fascinated by the dish simply called “farm egg”, interestingly paired with crisp Carolina gold rice, onion puree, salami cotto, and Brussels. LC agreed to give it a try and I couldn’t resist a side of bacon to go along with everything.

The pimento cheese starter arrived in a mini Mason jar with big slices of dry Texas toast. Chopped cheddar and a few pimentos were topped with a chewy, greasy, salty bacon jam. If I was a pimento cheese lover, I probably would have enjoyed this upscale version and its pseudo-Southern presentation.

I polished off my first mimosa and ordered a second as a runner delivered our brunch dishes, both in cast iron skillets. We were taken aback when we noticed that both of our eggs were barely cooked. Sure, the eggs were coddled, which is similar to poached, however runny egg white is never, NEVER acceptable. The bartender/server explained that the egg is to be mixed into the dish to create a sauce. Excuse me? I probably had the same quizzicle expression on my face that Acheson is famous for. If eggs are used to make the sauce, like hollandaise for instance, please make it in the kitchen.

We mixed the ingredients in our dishes, mainly to avoid being disgusted by the runny whites. My lamb belly was a nicely seared chunk with an appropriate ratio of fat to meat and paired well with the creamy grits, enhanced by a drizzle of sorghum. A handful of fresh mache lightened up the rich dish, however, the peanuts and pickled ginger were like turds in the proverbial punchbowl.

The main component in the “farm egg” dish was rice, cooked then flash fried for a toothsome yet crispy texture. I couldn’t detect the onion puree but observed a couple of thin salami slices and a few uncooked Brussels sprout leaves scattered on top. And then there was the runny egg. On the bright side, the bacon was thick and chewy, just the way I like it. But it wasn’t thick and chewy enough to negate the fact that my birthday brunch was well over $60 and consisted of two partially cooked eggs, grits, and some fried rice. For $14 per dish, perhaps two eggs may be more appropriate. (but then we would have had four runny f*ckin eggs!)

Considering this was our first brunch, it was certainly disappointing. And as far as those experimental flavor combinations go, these were experiments gone wrong….so much so that Empire State South is now off my Top Ten List.

999 Peachtree Street 404-541-1105

I rarely rave about anything. But get ready, because I’m about to tell you that my recent dinner and movie date with LC was the best movie experience ever!

Reviews on CineBistro in Town Brookhaven have been mostly positive, so I was expecting decent food and drinks. Heck, just the fact that you can get alcoholic beverages at a theater is an exciting concept…like adults in Europe!

I had already mapped out my strategy for maximum pleasure, planning on an appetizer and drink at the bar, then dinner and more drinks while watching Rock of Ages. It was a good plan, but I didn’t count on sitting in traffic for 45 minutes. No worries. Manager Brian Dobson explained the theater’s concept and said we still had time to execute my plan despite the time. LC was already at the bar ordering his dirty martini, so I joined him, deciding to try their sangria.

Without delay, I ordered the bacon wrapped dates, little sugary gems stuffed with sharp gorgonzola, then wrapped with chewy, salty bacon. A balsamic glaze and herb oil finished the plate of deliciousness that paired perfectly with my spicy, fruity sangria. It was an exciting preview, but it was almost time for the feature, so we headed into the theater where we had assigned seats on the back row. The stadium style seating in oversized leather chairs provided great views and comfort, with the added benefit of a retractable tray for food and drinks.

We ordered a second appetizer, lamb lollis, and our entrees, all of which would be brought out prior to the beginning of Rock of Ages. A martini for LC, another glass of sangria and my traditional movie treat, Milk Duds, came out first while we watched multiple trailers for new releases.

Just before the movie began, our server returned with LC’s rock shrimp risotto and my habanero glazed pork tenderloin. I expected the smoked gouda grits that accompanied the pork to be creamy, but they were formed in a circle and rather dry. No cheese was detected, but I had forgotten that it was supposed to be there, instead enthralled with the thin discs of pineapple that sandwiched the grits. Heat from the habanero glaze played off the sweet pineapple and was further complimented by the delicate crunch from the cubes of jicama. The green onion had taken on the stringy texture that they often do when cooked, making it difficult to cut, so I ate it whole. Then I licked my plate.

Less impressive were the lamb lollis with potato sauce and pomegranate glaze, perhaps because they were a little too fatty, or maybe it was that everything else was so good. LC couldn’t quite finish his risotto, full of plump shrimp thoughtfully cut into bite-size pieces with tails removed….remember, it’s pretty dark in the theater and no one wants to encounter shrimp tails hidden in their risotto. My fork wandered over to his bowl on several occassions.

I finished my sangria and wished I had another, but was too involved in the movie (and too lazy) to leave my seat. Rock of Ages kicked ass! Cheesy yet ridiculously entertaining for the 40-55 age group, it was a hilarious trip back in time. I opened the box of Milk Duds and quietly sang along to Guns ‘n’ Roses, Journey, Scorpions….and smiled, caramel stuck to my teeth.

1004 Town Blvd. 404-333-0740

Tucked away on a quiet corner in Brookhaven, this restaurant’s name perfectly suits its atmosphere. It is indeed a haven from the manic city, a rustic space that invites conversation over a couple of glasses of wine from their thoughtfully selected list. A perfect date spot.

In the midst of a crazy week, a break from the madness is exactly what B and I needed, so I invited her to join me at Haven to sample some dishes for an article in an upcoming issue of BuckHaven Lifestyle Magazine. We were seated at a comfortable booth and began perusing the wine list, finally choosing their priciest red by the glass, the Laetitia Reserve Pinot Noir at $15.

So wrapped up in our conversation, it took some coaxing from our patient server to extract an order from us. B chose mussels in a smoked tomato chipotle broth to start, leaving only one unopened shell in the bowl. I went with the braised Georgia rabbit, its intense musky flavor enhanced by earthy morel mushrooms and the bright freshness of an herb salad.

The wine went down easily as we caught up on each other’s news, awaiting our entrees. B’s plump roasted Georges Bank scallops arrived atop creamy Vidalia onion grits with some creamed spinach on the side. Nice.

I, of course, ordered the duck leg confit. But not just any duck, it was from Joe Jurgielewicz. Having never heard of this purveyor, I googled it. Turns out Joe’s a veterinarian and takes pride in raising the healthiest and tastiest ducks available. Served with honey roasted turnips, braised greens and a little Vidalia onion puree, the leg and thigh boasted crispy skin and rich, oily meat….tasty indeed! Just wish there was more of the Vidalia puree.

B and I always have room for dessert. And more wine. We ordered two more glasses of the smooth and spicy pinot. For dessert, she tried the creme brulee, a lovely rendition of the classic French pudding. The pear rhubarb crisp caught my attention. For some reason I was expecting a tart, so I was somewhat disappointed when the cast iron dish arrived. More like a deep dish mini pie with a streusel topping, the big scoop of vanilla ice cream made this dessert a bit too rich for my taste.

When the stress of the city becomes overwhelming, take a Valium and head to Brookhaven, where the wine and the wabbit are wonderfully soothing.

1441 Dresden Drive 404-969-0700

Please enjoy this repost as I am recovering from my trip, and the mostly horrendous food, at The Kentucky Derby:

Half a bag of cheddar goldfish, Fruit Loops and warm beer were the only edible items left in our room. Sounds more like the breakfast of losers than the breakfast of champions.

Around noon, LC and I checked out of the swanky motor lodge on the outskirts of Athens and hit the road back to Atlanta, still recovering from the Widespread show and its aftermath. An hour into the drive and we were ravenous.

Then, just like a mirage, a Waffle House appeared in the distance. It sat alone, perched on a hill at a traffic light in Dacula.

There are two kinds of Waffle House dining experiences….post clubbing at 3:00am and “the morning after” hangover breakfast. Of all the times I have eaten there, the meal has always fallen into one of those two categories.

Friday was obviously the latter, although neither of us was actually hungover. We chose a booth by the window and ordered coffee. I love their kitschy laminated menus with photos of the food…everything looks so delicious!

My regular Waffle House order is like a broken record; scrambled eggs with cheese, bacon, raisin toast, and grits on the side. I rarely eat any of the grits, just don’t want them to contaminate my eggs. If I don’t order this I get a fried egg and cheese sandwich with bacon….good stuff.

LC ordered an omelette with onions, jalapenos, green peppers, bacon, and cheese with hashbrowns, scattered, smothered, and covered. He was very pleased with his omelette. In fact, he was still talking about it days later.

The diner franchise is celebrating 55 years in business, with strikingly consistent food from Hollywood to Dacula. It is always exactly the same….just like the pictures on the menu. My bacon was thick and chewy and the eggs were very cheesy. The toast was full of raisins and slathered with margarine. No real butter here missy!

LC and I added sugar, margarine, and black pepper (indeed!) to the grits making them somewhat edible. Another splash of coffee and we were on our way, fueled by fat and caffeine.

It was a good day.

A week before AD’s visit, I ran across a coupon for Agave, one of her favorite restaurants in Atlanta, and one that I’ve often mentioned to LC, but never visited with him. It was a sign. Now was my chance to revisit this Southwestern staple.

AD arrived with her former colleague DR, finding us already seated at a a table on the secondary patio. Chips and salsa were delivered quickly, but subsequent drink service was much too slow for folks craving tequila. LC and I tried the jalapeno skinny margarita, while they went with the regular variety.

LC and I prefer restaurants that aren’t shy about heat. Don’t you just hate it when a dish is described as “spicy” and it comes out bland? Or when you ask if it is spicy and the server assumes that is a bad thing and says something like “oh no, it’s not very spicy”. I always respond with “that’s too bad, I would have ordered it”. As delicious as Agave’s food usually is, I warned LC of Agave’s somewhat wimpy reputation in the spice department.

Traditionally, AD has always ordered the spring rolls to start and I had to have some guacamole. DR ordered ceviche that was beautifully presented in a martini glass, while LC was intent on trying the New Mexico hatch green chile stew.

The spring rolls, made with shrimp, cabbage, serranos, and roasted poblanos, are a crispy sweet treat, but I was truly impressed with the stew, thick with potatoes, onions, corn and tender chunks of beef….and it was spicy!

Every time I’ve eaten at Agave I leave stuffed. Too stuffed. Once, AD and I shared the spring rolls and a fish entree and we still had to be carried out on a stretcher. So on this visit I opted for an appetizer of grilled beef and shrimp. LC ordered the lone item that I wouldn’t even taste….meatloaf, while AD stuck to her favorite fried chicken. We got an additional side of poblano grits for sharing.

My dish was pleasingly petite, with thin slices of medium rare tenderloin and plump grilled shrimp. It was the huge dish of fiery grits that was my downfall. Ironically, AD’s chicken wasn’t as spicy as it had been in the past. LC enjoyed his entree and I was so engrossed with the grits that I don’t even remember what DR ordered.

Room for dessert? No way, Jose’!

242 Boulevard SE 404-588-0006

While the storm was raging outside on Sunday, LC and I found refuge at a diner with a retro decor called All American Diner. I was thinking brunch, as in eggs benedict or a nice frittata. What I got was a Waffle House style diner breakfast with the added classy touch of the breakfast buffet.

I remember a time when buffets were popular….when I was a kid. Shoney’s had a breakfast buffet. All you can eat bacon….how could that be anything but awesome?

These days, the word buffet is about as appealing as pork sushi. But not in Florida’s panhandle! Time stands still there, and apparently LC is right at home. He was eager to get a plate full of whatever, while I ordered the standard scrambled eggs with cheese, bacon, and wheat toast. Grits came with it despite my objection.

LC came back to the table with a combination of eggs, sausage, grits, and various other indistinguishable items. And what goes better with a breakfast buffet than a fountain Mountain Dew?

He enjoyed it because he got to try everything, then felt sick later. Shocking. Most of the other diners looked like they had been eating at the buffet on a regular basis.

As for me, my bacon was chewy, my eggs were cheesy, and my toast was dark. Good enough.

15406 Front Beach Road 850-233-6007

Once again, our group went out for breakfast. This time LC opted to join us rather than eat our leftover pancakes. I mean flapjacks. Whatever.

Naturally, the kids ordered sugar, in the form of French toast for little T and a cute bear shaped pancake for little A (note the actual ice cream scoop of butter!). The adults tried a smorgasbord of fat-laden breakfast items like cheese grits with butter, sausage and Southwestern omelettes, country ham, and the ubiquitous pancakes, slathered with butter and syrup. It is common knowledge that I hate cake. Same goes for pancakes….I just don’t care for anything fluffy, doughy, or cakelike. I do like crepes, though. That’s what my Mamma used to make!

I must commend Flapjacks for their healthy menu section. I almost ordered an egg white omelette, but instead was drawn to the bacon and egg sandwich on toasted sourdough with lettuce, tomato, and mayo. Unfortunately, I failed to notice the sandwich lacked the all-important cheese.

But it would have sucked even with cheese. I have a thing about toasted bread. It should be crunchy, not soggy. It should be toasted! This sandwich was slopped on soggy sourdough. The copious amount of chewy bacon was awesome, so I ate it with the fried egg, lettuce, and tomato.

Luckily, I also ordered an extra-crispy waffle to be brought out after I ate my sandwich. It was delivered right on cue. I like my waffles almost burnt, so this one could have used another minute in the press. Dipped in syrup, it was a decent breakfast dessert.

Flapjacks is homestyle country cookin’, which in these parts, is the only kind of cookin’. Just put a pat of butter on it, honey.

2734 Parkway, Pigeon Forge 865-908-6115

Nacoochee Grill is one of those restaurants where I’ve eaten dozens of times. It is located in Helen, Georgia, where my parents live part-time and at least one of them has accompanied me on each of those visits. Sometimes a friend of mine, or theirs, joined us, but my last meal there was with LC on our way back to Atlanta from Lake Burton.

We were passing right through downtown Helen at dinner time so I talked him into going to Nacoochee. The last time we went to Helen we tried to eat there, but the wait was an hour so we opted to go elsewhere. But on a Sunday night we had better luck….if you can call it that.

I like to sit in the original dining room on the right, a space with lots of windows in this renovated old house. This time, however, they sat us in the brightly lit room on the left. The downhome atmosphere seemed to be lacking in this somewhat sterile room.

A look at the menu brought more disappointment. The new owner had changed the menu, taking off many signature dishes and adding pedestrian crap like chicken wings. Sure, I understand the redneck appeal of wings, but Nacoochee was the one restaurant in town that had elevated itself to serve “cuisine”.

There used to be fantastic entrees like jerked mahi mahi with mango salsa and Asian glazed duck. Each entree was served with a choice of two sides, including Southern favorites like collard greens and baked sweet potatoes. We always got a salad as one side, served with their amazing honey balsamic dressing.

Well, now the entrees only come with one side. Thankfully, they still make their signature house dressing, but the salad is a fourth the size. LC had one with his blackened tilapia, but now the entrees only come with one side, so his piece of fish sat alone on the big plate, save for an XL serving of green tomato salsa. Just sad. However, the fish was seasoned and cooked perfectly over their live fire grill.

But first, we ordered an appetizer, something me and my parents never do. LC wanted to try the grits fritters, a combination of grits and cheese lightly breaded and fried, then finished with a drizzle of mustardy sauce. They were surprisingly not greasy, the crisp shell holding a sublime and creamy filling.

Another old favorite was the French country salad. I’ve had it often for lunch with my Mom. Field greens with blue cheese, walnut halves, onions (which I remove), and big chunks of chewy bacon, with bacon vinaigrette. I decided to have it for dinner, topped with grilled shrimp.

The plate of leafy field greens was nearly as big as before, topped with plenty of blue cheese crumbles. Two skewers of flavorful, plump grilled shrimp distracted me so I didn’t notice the lack of bacon until it was too late. Tiny bits of walnuts didn’t compare to the big halves that used to adorn this salad. On the contrary, there was no shortage of raw onion which I failed to have left off. House honey balsamic dressing was as good as ever.

Knowing what Nacoochee Grill used to be, and what it is now, just makes me sad. I think it’s called sellin’ out.

7277 South Main Street, Helen 706-878-8020

LC and his entire family are University of Kentucky alumni, so you can imagine his grief at last week’s horrific showing in the Final Four. However, earlier, in the midst of March Madness, we watched them clobber West Virginia at 8 Traxx with a big UK alumni group. Good times!

Prior to the game, we dined at the neighboring tapas and wine restaurant, Cellar 56. The experience of sharing a variety of small plates is both fun and intimate, one of my favorite ways to dine.

The menu at Cellar 56 offers tastes from garden, land, and sea, ranging from $5 to $7. We started with drinks and a warning to our server that we were anxious to get to the big screen for the game, not that it wasn’t obvious from our bright blue UK T-shirts!

LC and I chose four tapas. Grilled flatbread with duck confit, fig jam, and Cabrales blue cheese came out first, just two triangles. Toppings were generous and flavorful, a great combination of sweet, rich, and tangy, but I could see that four plates might not be enough for dinner.

Luckily, a runner delivered our order of Georgia white shrimp, tasso gravy, and Logan Turnpike grits, along with a seared scallop on sweet corn with applewood bacon, which we did not order. By the time our server came back around we had scarfed down the lone scallop. I’m not a corn lover, so it was just OK for me. Perfectly cooked large shrimp paired with creamy grits were more impressive.

A bowl of baked macaroni and cheese with green chile and prosciutto was next, providing the requisite creamy, cheesy comfort food experience. My dish of lump crabmeat, avocado and grapefruit was a disappointment due to its lack of crabmeat. Apparently, it was so lackluster that I forgot to take a photo.

When all was said and done, we were still left wanting, despite the bonus scallop. Just then, the same runner delivered a second duck confit flatbread by mistake. Voila! Problem solved.

I doubt I will return to Cellar 56, unless I’m attending an event nearby. Not bad, just not memorable.

56 East Andrews Drive 678-344-3600

Here’s an ironic post….me telling you to go get some grits! Historically, not my favorite food. In fact, although I grew up in Tennessee (honey, I mean in the woods!) I never tried grits until me and my Mom got them at Denny’s in Palm Springs, of all places. They came with our breakfasts of eggs, bacon, and toast, we didn’t order them intentionally. Once faced with the shallow bowl of white-ish mush we didn’t know what to do with them….should they be salty, sweet?

We decided to melt a little butter on them and sprinkle with sugar. No flavor was detected (other than the butter and sugar). Experiment fail.

Rather than a flavor-packed grain, grits are merely a vehicle for flavor. At restaurants like Rathbun’s and Dogwood that vehicle is a Mercedes, unlike the ’76 Pinto at Denny’s.

Dogwood’s grits are so creamy and delicious! Made with Red Mule yellow stone ground grits from Athens, GA, they offer them with several topping options that change seasonally including choices like Brunswick stew, crawfish butter, or pimento cheese, to name a few.

I have a coupon to try some for free but I can’t seem to attach it! If you want the coupon just comment on this post and I will email it to you!

565 Peachtree Street 404-835-1410