Hot Dish Review

When Atlanta Eats approached my friend BB to shoot a segment at his restaurant There Brookhaven, he was pretty excited. It was scheduled for lunch so my friend and colleague MC joined me for his nearly famous bison burger.

We arrived as the film crew was setting up, interviewing BB who is always good for a shocking tale involving the FBI and/or multiple celebrities. Mutual restaurant industry friends arrived as MC and I were relaxing with inappropriate lunchtime beverages, red wine and Corona Light.

Although it doesn’t say so on the menu, the bison burger is a double stack, with melted white cheddar in between. As a smallish chick, I’d prefer just one patty, or at least the option. Roasted poblano pepper, avocado, red onion, and spicy mayo come standard on this hefty sandwich, served with crispy fries seasoned with garlic and rosemary, or plain if you will be having any conversations with anyone the remainder of the day. I chose the latter, of course.

What you’ll need to eat this burger: fifty napkins and the ability to unhinge your jaw. It’s tall. It’s messy. Juice will run down your chin. Mara Davis, providing a little feminine counterpart to sportsguy Steak Shapiro, came over to our table to interview us for the show, both of us wiping our chins of meaty juices and green smudges of avocado. If you are like us, you’ll also need another drink.

The roasted poblano is a smoky contrast to the creamy, sublime avocado, with a surprisingly spicy afterburn. Both bison patties were cooked medium, to order, and served on a dreamily soft sesame seed bun. No surprise, BB’s bison burger is considered one of Atlanta’s best!

Watch for the episode featuring There Brookhaven on Atlanta Eats Season 2!

305 Brookhaven Avenue NE 404-949-9677

When I had the opportunity to meet a friend for a drink recently, he suggested Sidebar. I had to laugh out loud, remembering a ridiculous night out at this downtown dive with colleagues just before I was to drive to Tennessee for Christmas some years ago. My manager at the time said we each had to try an Irish car bomb. Never one to turn down alcohol, I managed to guzzle the half pint of Guinness with the shot of Bailey’s and Jamison’s dropped in. Delicious! That was the first of many Irish car bombs that night which led to my car keys being locked in my office, delaying my holiday plans.

This visit was totally different, except for the blustery Winter weather. Sidebar is a long narrow space with hightops on the left, the bar on the right. There are pool tables downstairs, which I never knew existed until last week. College students and area workers stop by after hours for a brew or two, along with a couple of regulars that obviously don’t stop at two. In fact, one of them provided much entertainment, fruitlessly attempting to withdraw cash from the ATM with his driver’s license after his girlfriend abandoned him. (I didn’t notice at first, but that’s him in the corner of the photo above…LOL).

Naturally, the first order of business was to have an Irish car bomb. It went down smoothly, taking away the Winter chill. I followed it with a Guinness draught as me and BL caught up.

I was hungry too, so I checked out Sidebar’s menu, a selection of typical bar snacks and alcohol absorbers. Among the choices was my favorite sandwich, the classic BLT.

The sandwich arrived stacked high with crispy bacon. Honestly, I prefer it thick and chewy, but it’s nearly impossible to complain about bacon, unless you don’t have any! Ripe tomatoes, fresh lettuce, and a heavy schmear of mayo on grilled white bread completed the tasty sandwich. Accompanying shoestring fries were crispy and plentiful. Another Guinness washed it all down.

Thankfully, I left Sidebar relatively sober….with my car keys and dignity intact.

79 Poplar Street NW 404-588-1850

Years ago I brunched nearly every Sunday. Boutique owner BH and I would meet at Virginia’s when it was actually on Virginia Avenue. There were only about eight tables on the microscopic patio where regulars would bring their dogs and enjoy a leisurely brunch. I still remember the spicy and fantastic Mexican scramble topped with crispy corn tortilla strips. But the neighborhood would never allow them a liquor license, and so after many years they moved to the space that now houses Rathbun’s.

Fast forward twelve years or so. Brunch is a rare treat these days so I was pretty excited to have an early Sunday meeting with DC at Serpas. Scott Serpas is one of my favorite chefs, adding his Louisiana accent to many of the dishes on his dinner menu. I was curious to see how that would translate into brunch.

Of course, there was a fried oyster benedict, but I’m not a fan of that particular shellfish. Creole flavors appeared in the form of an omelette with andouille sausage, lobster, onions, and peppers, as well as a starter of New Orleans beignets which DC talked me into sharing with him.

But first we were poured big cups of wonderfully rich, strong coffee. Although heavily coated with powdered sugar, the beignets were light and fluffy.

I would have liked to see a traditional eggs benedict offered, but it wasn’t so I went my usual boring bacon and eggs route. When ordering something as mundane as that, the trick is in the quality of each ingredient. Like DC said, he can make his own eggs, so he tried Big Papa’s single beef patty with fries, a monumental burger topped with smoked cheddar and bacon. Ordered medium, it was a tad overcooked, but he enjoyed it nonetheless.

My plate arrived artfully arranged, chewy slices of bacon forming a cross over the soft scrambled eggs. Griddled sourdough toast and breakfast potatoes cooked with onions and peppers accompanied my eggs. Not a potato lover, I had asked if there was anything I could substitute for the potatoes, described as hashbrowns on the menu….fruit perhaps? Our server said he didn’t think there was any fruit available. Hard to fathom, but no worries, the potatoes were tasty enough to warrant a few bites. My eggs were rather plain, however. I had to request salt and pepper, which were not on the table. Just a bit of goat cheese and some herbs scrambled in would have jazzed them up.

If you enjoy sweet and savory together, the breakfast torta layered with pancakes, serrano ham, sunny side eggs, and maple syrup sounds heavenly. The menu says it “tastes like happy”. My favorite thing about Serpas’ brunch menu was at the very bottom under the headline “Is It 12:30 Yet?” Being Sunday in Atlanta we are still subject to those antiquated blue laws that make alcohol sales illegal prior to that time. If you brunch there after noon, you can spice up your morning with a spicy cat scratch Mary, or my personal favorite, a refreshing mimosa.

Yes, what DC said is true. I can make my own eggs too, and do most every day. But I don’t buy applewood smoked bacon or bake my own bread for toast. It’s special touches like these that elevate the everyday egg.

659 Auburn Avenue 404-688-0040

You know how they say you can’t find a boyfriend until you stop looking? Apparently, same goes for food trucks. Just when I had given up on sampling the goodies from a food truck, there it was….the Mix’D Up Food Truck pulling up by the door where my colleague MC and I were participating in an ill-fated health fair.

The Mix’D Up Food Truck has an appropriately rock ‘n’ roll renegade theme. Brett (who’s business card looks like a concert ticket) and his crew, dressed like guys in a band, started cooking up big juicy burgers around 10:45am. The aroma of grilled beef and lamb wafted through the hallway. We chatted with the guys and tried to put off ordering, but the temptation was too great for MC. She ordered the lamb burger with feta, spinach, tomato, and tzatziki sauce on a ciabatta roll.

The food truck was like some hot guy showing up and asking her out, just when she least expected it. But it wasn’t a hot guy (OK, it actually was), but a hot burger. MC took one bite of her lamb burger and fell in love. She allowed me a couple of bites. Juicy lamb with lots of sauce studded with chunks of feta tasted like a deluxe gyro. Delish!

I would have ordered the lamb burger as well, but I felt the need to try something different, so I went with their namesake cheeseburger, subbing caramelized onions for regular and adding bacon…exactly how I always get my burgers. So much for different. (note: I photographed my burger in its natural environment, on the pavement).

Loosely pattied and cooked perfectly medium, my beef burger was covered with melted cheddar and tons of caramelized onions. Chewy bacon, chopped lettuce, tomato, and mayo completed the sandwich. Brett threw in a handful of their perfectly crispy, handcut, skin-on shoestring fries, with a sprinkling of special seasoning salt.

I was impressed with the freshness of the toppings and the creative combinations, some even served bunless. Chef Brett, along with his sous chef Mass, make more than gourmet burgers. Food truck risotto anyone?

It was my first time with a food truck and I loved it! MC and I were still swooning from our thick, meaty burgers when the truck packed up and pulled out. It was a juicy affair.

I’m confused.

A couple of years ago Five Guys Burger and Fries expanded into the Atlanta market to rave reviews. While gift shopping for Little T’s birthday recently, I found myself navigating the parking lot gridlock at the Edgewood Retail District and spotted Five Guys. I was hungry and excited to finally try it, especially their fries that have been repeatedly voted “best of (fill in the blank)”.

Arriving around 2:00pm, I was surprised to find a line stretching nearly to the door. I ordered a “little” cheeseburger with mayo, lettuce, grilled onions, and of course, an order of fries. Once you order, just stand around and wait for your number to be called. They won’t ask you if it’s to go, your burger will be handed to you in a greasy paper sack by well mannered, hard working line cooks whether you are eating in the sparsely furnished dining room or not.

Anticipating deliciousness, I took my first few bites of the Five Guys burger, but was delivered a swift kick of flavorless reality. I considered my recent burger experiences for comparison, for instance, Backyard Burger in Alabama and Smashburger which both delivered a superior product in a fast casual setting with similar pricing. Although fresh, Five Guys toppings were pedestrian….no guacamole here. And their “grilled” onions were hardly grilled at all. I was particularly disappointed with Five Guys’ soggy, thick-cut fries. In fact, I would rank Wendy’s higher, especially in the fries department.

Truth is, I prefer fancy pants burgers like the ones at Yeah! Burger where I can top my organic bison or free-range turkey burger with fresh avocado and bacon jam. Like Backyard Burger and Wendy’s, they serve sweet potato fries, although I have often complained that they aren’t quite crisp enough. I haven’t tried Wendy’s yet, but I bet they are as excellent as their regular fries.

Better yet, I like a nice juicy burger cooked medium and topped with lots of melted cheese and thick, chewy bacon. Grindhouse perhaps? No crinkle-cut fries please.

With the abundance of burger joints in Atlanta, both boutique and bargain, I simply can’t understand why anyone would choose Five Guys over the competition. Again, I’m confused.

Next time I have a burger craving I’ll pay the extra two bucks for flavor.

1253 Caroline Street 404-688-6474

After a lengthy liquor license wait, There officially opens its doors tonight at the Town Brookhaven development. LC and I stopped by last night for a sneak peak and to sample the goods from chef Ryan Hickey.

The alligator and boar sausage and the smoked trout deviled eggs were already sold out, but luckily there was plenty of the smoked oyster chowder that proprietor BB had mentioned earlier in the day. Chowders are often cream based and heavy, but we found Hickey’s version incredibily light, full of house-smoked oysters perfectly diced potatoes, carrots, and a little bacon.

LC ordered his standard vodka martini, proclaiming bartender Craig to be fantastic upon his first sip. A quick perusal of the wine list provided multiple choices by the glass, especially in the deep red category, a favorite of mine and BB’s. I started off with the peppery Woop Woop Shiraz.

A bowl of smoked almonds kept us happy as we awaited our bison burger, a tall stack of deliciousness reminiscent of the sandwiches at Bocado, where Hickey served as sous chef under Todd Ginsberg. Although I failed to order the burger medium as I would normally do, the meat was very juicy. I had to unhinge my jaw to take a bite of the colossal burger, topped with chef’s signature roasted poblano peppers, melted white cheddar, avocado, red onion, and spicy mayo. LC loved the flavor. Crispy house-cut fries came alongside.

When the full menu is available (soon!) you’ll find me There, eating the duck salad on mesclun greens with apple, pear, watermelon radish, spice peanuts, and dressed with housemade peach balsamic vinaigrette.

305 Brookhaven Avenue 404-949-9677

Any afternoon with sunny blue skies is a delight, but one at the end of January is particularly delicious. And it was Friday. A brief lunch escape from the office would do me and LC good.

We went to Mazzy’s down the street….a cavernous sports bar with more space than personality, and a staple of my coworkers. Dart boards and pool tables are ready to provide amusement to guys that have no chance of gettin’ laid.

It had been a super-stressful week, so an ice cold Miller Lite was in order. Mazzy’s menu didn’t hold any surprises. Appetizers like chips and queso, quesadillas, and chicken wings are expected at any sports bar, but ’90′s throwbacks like loaded potato skins and fried mozzarella sticks made me chuckle.

Sandwiches, burgers, and a short selection of entrees (items used to make sandwiches, served on a platter without the bun) make ordering pretty simple. I chose a turkey burger with jack cheese and fries. LC duplicated my order, except with cheddar.

Our burgers were gigantic and covered with melted cheese. We dressed our buns with mayo (served in to-go packets), and each took a big, juicy bite. Skin-on fries could have been crispier, but they did the trick nonetheless.

There was nothing to complain about at Mazzy’s, likewise nothing to rave about. I guess that’s the definition of suburban mediocrity.

7160 Jimmy Carter Blvd. 678-822-9888

That’s what’s on the door at Ormsby’s, the location chosen by L for her birthday celebration. The burly dude checking ID’s gave me a hard time about carrying in a bottle of champagne (L’s gift), as if we would drink it unchilled. What are we, heathens?

Decor is cozy at this neighborhood tavern, enhanced by lots of wood and dim lighting, but it was difficult to note details since the place was packed full of young patrons trying hard to look like they weren’t trying. LC was conspicuously absent as I joined our table for about 20 guests directly beneath the stairs near the bocce court.

My only prior visit was a late night accident with B, finding ourselves inebriated at the bar downstairs. I ate something but have no recollection, so I was excited to finally try their reinvented pub fare.

As we played musical chairs, chatting and catching up, our server ran her ass off delivering cocktails one at a time. I started with a Guinness draft. L ordered hummus and pimiento cheese fritters for the table as we perused the menu which includes a whole section devoted to wieners….gotta love wieners. The fried balls of melted cheddar didn’t impress me, but the hummus was a winner.

Entrees ran the gamut from a short rib (the priciest item at just $18) to shrimp and grits. I cannot believe L’s husband PC didn’t order it….it’s his MO. But instead, he ordered the bangers and mash, 2 big housemade brats with taters and green beans. He gave out samples to me and BH, his best friend (and one of my coworkers) seated next to me. I found it more fatty than flavorful, making me happy that I went with the chicken wrap, an odd dinner selection for me.

Although not a dish I would order, I was more impressed with BH’s fish ‘n’ chips. Flaky cod beneath crispy batter, a dash of vinegar, and a plate full of skin-on fries.

The birthday girl shared an order of chicken and dumplings with one of her pals. The very thought of dumplings makes me gag. Needless to say, I didn’t try it.

As for my wrap, it was full of roasted chicken, chunks of freshly cut avocado, crispy bacon, tomatoes and sprouts, each ingredient’s distinctive flavor coming together to make the perfect sandwich (which unfortunately didn’t photograph well). My side of sweet potato fries weren’t fries at all, but rather wedges. I would not have ordered them had I known, but my ignorance turned out to be bliss as they were sweet and spiced just right.

And what’s a birthday without cake? I ordered a round of chocolate cake shots at the end of the evening….delicious.

1170 Howell Mill Road 404-968-2033

LC and I made a dinner pit stop at the Yeah! Burger in my neighborhood after a meeting late one evening last week. I love the burger joint’s modern kitsch decor and chef Doty’s religious use of organic ingredients.

Having just received our horrific cholesterol test results, we both opted for turkey burgers rather than beef. Despite my health and fitness habits, I’ve managed to have the overall cholesterol of an obese 80 year old man.

Truth is, I make some pretty mean turkey burgers at home, so I was curious to see how chef Doty could inject flavor and keep them juicy at the same time. LC topped his burger with cheddar, mayo, lettuce, and grilled onions, while I didn’t stray far from my regular, with pepper jack, mayo, lettuce and grilled onions, both on wheat buns. We split an order of house made sweet potato fries and their almost-famous bacon jam.

Our burgers were enormous rough, hand-pattied monsters, full of grilled flavor. No dryness here, they were likely soaked in butter. So much for watching our cholesterol! The sweet potato fries were, not surprisingly, fried, so we didn’t win any points there either. Although I love sweet potatoes any way you slice ‘em, these fries were not very crispy, and therefore not very impressive.

Although it’s nearly impossible to spend less than $30 for two burgers, a side, and 2 beers, there’s no doubt that Yeah! Burger serves a tasty product that’s worth a few extra bucks.

1017 N. Highland Avenue 404-437-7845

I don’t get out much….out of the city, that is. But recently, LC and I had the pleasure of dining out with his cousin and his wife in their neck of the woods.

It’s not that I think restaurants in the suburbs are inferior, it’s simply a matter of convenience, or inconvenience. When there are an abundance of intown restaurants that fulfill my culinary cravings, why drive thirty miles? Especially when one might have a drink….or two.

Nevertheless, there we were, in Marietta, going to one of their neighborhood favorites, The Paper Mill Grill. The space was warm and inviting, with soft lighting and wood furnishings. Seated in a cozy booth, we started off with a round of various martinis, from peach to good old fashioned gin. We were particularly fond of the fish bowl placed on the shelf that separated us from the booth next door, but the colorful beta didn’t move….until we tapped the glass. He’s alive!

All of us were starving, so we ordered two flatbread appetizers and zucchini fries. The latter were especially greasy and didn’t warrant more than one bite. Of the two flatbreads, one was the special with smoked salmon, capers, and onions. Not so special. The other, however, was super delicious, topped with fig preserves, blue cheese, bacon and grapes. It’s a combination that could have been cloyingly sweet if poorly executed, but instead, was perfectly balanced.

LC’s cousin is as predictable as sunburns in Summer. He always, and I mean always, orders shrimp and grits if it is on the menu. He cleaned his plate. Despite having salmon on one of our appetizers, LC wanted more of the pink fish, this time grilled and served on a pool of creamed corn risotto. He too cleaned his plate.

Us chicks chose salads. L ordered the blackened grouper baby blue salad, an enourmous dinner portion of chopped veggies, strawberries, walnuts and blue cheese, with balsamic vinaigrette. I tried the warm spinach salad with grilled chicken breast, smoked bacon, avocado, chopped egg, and mushrooms with a warm apple bacon vinaigrette. All you have to say is bacon and avocado and I’m in….talk about predictable. Chewy bacon, fresh avocado, tender chicken and….(surprise!) blue cheese….yes, it was awesome.

No room for dessert other than the liquid variety. We sipped our last martinis while listening to the guy playing acoustic guitar in the bar area. Too bad Paper Mill Grill is in the burbs.

305 Village Parkway NE 678-766-1500