Hot Dish Review

I’m going to have to eat my words. Maybe with some pesto. I always tell people I hate Italian food, when the fact is, I really only hate what most Americans consider to be Italian food, like spaghetti with meatballs and marinara.

A recent assignment took me to Davio’s, a relatively new Northern Italian restaurant at Phipp’s Plaza. Like all Italian restaurants, there are pastas, but none of them with marinara. Instead of pizzas you’ll find Tuscan white bean and hand-rolled gnocchi with basil truffle oil.

This is the fourth Davio’s location in the U.S., the first opening in Boston in 1985. The company has grown slowly, taking its time to perfect the concept before branching out to different markets. White tablecloths, upholstered seating, and fat columns give the space a traditional fine dining feel. I ordered a bellini followed by an unusual selection of an off-dry riesling. Both were fantastic.

The menu reads like a study in decadence, from seared foie gras to lobster risotto, until you get to the section titled Marchi. This section is a brief list of Davio’s trademark Spring rolls which come in four flavors that mimic other dishes, for instance the Philly Cheese Steak Spring Roll. They even sell them wholesale to supermarkets. I don’t get it. It’s as out of place as pizza at a sushi bar. But we were obligated to try them, so we ordered the sampler. As expected, LC loved the crispy fried rolls, especially the Buffalo Chicken. I was not impressed.

In addition to the Spring rolls we ordered the steamed mussels to share. The aromatic broth, flavored with ginger, lemongrass and fresh basil had a little kick, but I found the shellfish to be on the small side. LC devoured them as I focused on my foie gras. Seared and paired with roasted Georgia peaches, I initially thought the kitchen had plated an enormous serving of foie gras with no peach because the port glaze made everything look the same. Even our server thought they had made a mistake and whisked the dish away for repair. Meanwhile, I requested some undressed field greens on the side, my favorite way to cut the richness of foie gras. Our server returned, explaining the peach was hidden beneath two lovely slices of the goose liver. I proceeded to cut a piece of each and brushed a few leaves of baby romaine through the port glaze. Heavenly.

That was just the appetizers. The next dish was ravioli stuffed with Maine lobster in a rich basil cream sauce. Pastas come in two sizes so we ordered the small bowl and treated it as a side to accompany an 8 oz. center cut filet mignon. I couldn’t pass up the pan roasted Brussels sprouts while LC had a hankerin’ for the green beans with crispy pancetta.

Our steak was kitchen split, each half (that looked to be around 6 oz. each rather than 4 oz.) individually seared to a perfect medium. Served with caramelized onions and two housemade sauces, horseradish cream and a citrus herb sauce called prezzemolata, it was the best steak both of us had eaten in years, perhaps ever! Each bite melted in our mouths, after which we exclaimed “Oh my God, this is amazing!” It was so incredibly delicious, no sauce was required, but the prezzemolata was terrific so I couldn’t resist dipping a few bites in. We savored every morsel.

Brussels sprouts were roasted until tender and tasty. Lots of porky pancetta punctuated the skinny, whole green beans. Despite its richness, we polished off the lobster ravioli and had the nerve to order dessert.

I was disappointed to discover this Italian restaurant did not serve gelato, so we opted for what seemed to be the lightest, a strawberry parfait with vanilla ice milk and lemon pound cake croutons. A textural delight, it would have been better without the hint of lemon, and with a dollop of whipped cream.

But why stop there? Our server, who’s timing was impeccable, suggested we take home a second dessert, the traditional Italian tiramisu. Sadly, it didn’t even make it to the refrigerator.

Certainly not inexpensive, Davio’s is the perfect choice for a special occassion or if your pockets are particularly deep. Do I like Italian food, you ask? If it’s Davio’s, I love it.

3500 Peachtree Road 404-844-4810

My first visit to Concentrics’ new restaurant, The Spence, was a lovely experience. Soft lighting warmed up the cool modern industrial space. Dramatic dishes envisioned by celebrity chef/mad scientist Richard Blais elicited excitement. My anticipation was met with brilliant, quirky combinations that worked most of the time. And when they did, it was heavenly.

I was hoping to recreate that experience on my subsequent visit with friend YP, however, most of the menu items that were amazing (beet pappardelle with duck confit, for example) were, not surprisingly, off the menu. Like most chefs these days, Blais’ menu in is constant flux due to the availability of seasonal ingredients, and of course, his whims.

YP met me on a blustery Winter night. Thankfully, there’s a valet just steps from the door. We started with a bottle of lambrusco and an order of chef’s already almost famous “oysters & pearls” for her, the carrot agnolotti with pig trotter and persimmon for me.

New to the world of cheap, chilled, sparkling red wine, YP loved the light, easy-drinking lambrusco. Of the four raw oysters, she insisted I eat one. Nitrogen was used to freeze horseradish creating the “pearls” which sufficiently concealed the mollusks’s flavor. As an oyster aficionado, YP gave them the thumbs up.

I prefered my appetizer, a long transparent plate of braised sweet carrots, caramelized persimmon slices, and pasta pockets filled with pork, capturing the essence of the season.

Our server removed our utensils, replacing them with a mishmash of vintage pieces…love that. We decided to share two additional small plates and a side. First a wooden cutting board arrived with a slab of foie gras terrine, artfully adorned with micro greens, pickled cherries and candied kumquat. Sure, it was darling, but YP noted the terrine was a bit too cold to spread and the thick slices of accompanying Texas toast were dry and crumbly. With a pork terrine offered as well, it would have been logical if the foie gras was served seared. And I dare say it would have been tastier.

Perhaps the Brussels sprouts, fried with haricots verts and dressed with a Thai vinaigrette, would fare better. Indeed, they were delicious, although a bit on the salty side.

Our third dish to share was another made with pasta, this one a mezzi rigatoni colored black by squid ink. It was served with clams, octopus, and a smattering of goat cheese, all resting in a cool sauce that reminded us of Sriracha with mayo. The seafood was properly prepared but the disparate elements of the dish simply didn’t coalesce.

Ever since we planned our dinner I was looking forward to having their housemade milk punch, served as an after dinner cordial with a few tiny, chewy cookies. After we squeezed the last drop from the lambrusco bottle, I ordered it, only to find out a few moments later that they were out. However, our server thoughtfully brought us some of the tiny cookies but even they were disappointingly crisp (they are described as “crisps”, so I imagine this is the way they are meant to be although they were pleasingly chewy the last time).

The atmosphere and service were great, as before. And the food was predictably unpredictable.

75 5th Street NW 404-892-9111

With over three years of success and a cheeseburger with a cult following, one might think that I would be a regular at Holeman & Finch, Restaurant Eugene’s casual counterpart and neighbor. Quite the contrary, I had never visited until recently when BB mentioned he and his chef BT would be dining there and he invited me to join them.

The atmosphere was as expected, lots of warm wood elements and bare light bulbs that look like they were salvaged from your Grandma’s house, when in fact, they are about $500 a pop according to BB, who recently sourced lighting for his own restaurant, There Brookhaven.

Paintings of pigs differentiating the ham from the hock add some country charm and prepare diners for the offal (not to be confused with awful) selection on the menu…except for the veal brains. Nothing prepares you for the veal brains.

The three of us started with a few dishes to share: pot of chicken liver pate’, locally sourced gruyere, and bratwurst. Both the pate’ and the cheese come with bread, so our server recommended we not order the H & F bread basket, ironically the very thing this tiny spot is known for. Holeman & Finch is the purveyor of bread and buns for nearly every restaurant in Atlanta that takes pride in organic and locally sourced products. We agreed, deciding to fill up on meat rather than bread.

BT’s Hoppy Bunny arrived and one of two glasses of Cuvee du Vatican, a cotes du rhone that was less dry than most, its peppery notes pairing well with the cheese, a thin sliver accompanied by a cherry compote and droplets of honey. The few pieces of sliced bread didn’t impress.

Unfortunately (and perhaps premeditated), neither BT nor myself eat chicken liver, so BB was left to devour the whole jar of pate’ with its pungeont aspic on top. He reported thorough enjoyment.

Meanwhile, BT and I dug into the bratwurst with zephyr squash and shishito peppers, deceptively served in a cast iron skillet but the vegetables appeared to be braised rather than roasted and could have certainly benefitted from more cooking time and seasoning. The pudgey sausage displayed impressive girth, with a flavorful herbaceous filling. Agreeing that one vegetable dish was in order, we tried the glazed turnips, which suffered even more glaringly from inadequate cooking time.

There were many interesting options that we didn’t try….crunchy gentlemen for instance, described as black forest ham, gruyere, dijon. Is it a croque monsieur as BT guessed? Smoked trout can be great, especially in the hands of Zeb Stevenson at Livingston. We didn’t try it here. A subsequent visit may find me ordering the shrimp stew with red curry and cilantro, with ciabatta.

We discussed the lamb fries briefly but ended up with veal sweetbreads and a poached farm egg with duck liver, both of which were served in, but not prepared in, cast iron skillets. The veal sweetbreads (that look somewhat like brains, but not to be confused) were lovely, served with preserved figs for a sweet note, orange slices for a hit of acidity, field peas and mustard jus….probably the best dish of the day.

The menu description of the foie gras dish, cleverly called duck liver, reminded me of Blais’ version at Home some years back. He seared the foie gras and served it like a decadent breakfast with two thin little pancakes with maple syrup, providing a sweet juxtaposition to the rich liver’s intense fattiness. Holeman & Finch added thick, chewy bacon and a poached egg, making it even more decadent, but the johnnycakes were thick and doughy, covering the bottom of the round skillet and ultimately overtaking the dish.

Not surprisingly, we ended with a pair of desserts, bacon caramel popcorn and a fried apple pie. The chewy chunks of bacon would have served a better use flavoring the lackluster turnips, but were a nice addition to the popcorn. BB remarked that the pie, which was covered with a shiny glaze, looked like the carnival variety. A scoop of vanilla ice cream slowly melted beneath the warm pie, becoming a puddle as we took turns with our spoons.

We were leaving just as the kitchen was lining up the buttered buns for their famous burgers, served only after 10pm. Two dozen freshly ground burgers were on the grill. Word is they sell out in seconds.

Holeman & Finch rings all the right bells, blows all the pretty whistles. I was supposed to love it. Dare I say that I didn’t?

2277 Peachtree Road 404-948-1175

A lovely dinner….
Pour a glass of wine, sit back and relax folks….this is gonna take a while. Nine courses with wine pairings plus a couple of “gifts from the chef” spanned a solid four hours.

Finding the Quinones Room is somewhat of a treasure hunt….BB and I followed the signs, walked through the breezeway, and down the stairs to the door with the big Q. Neutral curtains parted to reveal an elegant seating area furnished in shades of chocolate and cream. The intimate dining room is to the right with only ten tables covered in white linens. Antique mirrors, Venetian glass chandeliers, and lacquered wood frame chairs with a vintage patina lent a quiet air of Southern moneyed aristocracy.

At first, the service seemed too serious for my taste. There was a selection of water and the delivery of four mini cheese bread sticks before our server, Rafael, introduced himself in a barely audible hush. We would be having the prix fixe menu with the wine pairings….a multi-course marathon that began with a kir royale.

Bread service arrived on a wooden skewer. Various sizes and kinds of bread, from sourdough to onion, complimented by soft, sweet cream butter.

Two mini cheese gougeres were devoured tout de suite, as well as a shot of celery root soup with red onion jam, both gifts from Chef de Cuisine David A. Carson. Little bites that packed big flavor.

Krug Grand Cuvee champagne was poured in advance of our first course. I knew it would be a crudo, something ultra-light. Atlantic blue fin tuna, sashimi style, and Kumamoto oysters were paired with tiny cubes of Asian pear, slivers of radish, the bowl decorated with droplets of shoyu, a type of soy sauce. This would be the only dish I didn’t really enjoy.

For lack of a better monicker, the “drink boy” came by with a 2005 sauternes for our next dish, a foie gras terrine. I commented to BB that I usually prefer foie gras seared. I also noted something peculiar….the drink boy once again short-poured my wine. Perhaps that is a standard practice in fine dining? To pour an almost imperceptibly short glass for the lady at the table.

A square plate came out with a square of the foie gras terrine, accompanied by three, questionably four, preparations of Fuyu persimmon and a little mound of spiced cocoa nibs. There was a persimmon puree, a dollop of persimmon preserves, and a slice of candied persimmon. I believe the streak of orange-y powder along the side was freeze-dried persimmon, but I could be wrong. Each little bite of the decadent foie gras was immaculate, with a smudge of sweet persimmon. What could make it even better you ask? Four baby popovers made with a mild cheese and the slightest hint of sweetness. Heaven.

A row of tiny Nantucket Bay scallops sat upon a cauliflower puree, each one topped with black pearls of caviar. Sauvignon blanc, fresh with hints of grapefruit, paired nicely. Rafael had loosened up as I quizzed him about his former employment. Turns out he has always worked for Quatrano and Harrison, the pair that own Baccanalia, Floataway, Abbattoir, and Star Provisions.

Loup de mer, a simple white fish, was made stunning with its toppings of earthy black trumpet mushrooms and baby potato chips made with fingerlings, all resting on a bed of melted Spring onions. Chardonnay was the obvious choice for wine.

Now things would take a turn for the rich, heavy, dark. Drink boy poured glasses of a 2007 pinot noir from Willamette Valley as the dance of service continued with unwavering steadiness. Truffled cabbage and Jerusalem artichoke provided the creamy base for a chunk of braised veal cheek, so tender it fell apart at the mere sight of my fork. But first BB and I sliced into the crispy veal sweetbreads that crowned the meat, lightly fried in a coating with a hint of nutmeg. He loves sweetbreads. If they were always this good and tender, I can see why. Although small, the braised veal was filling, containing quite a bit of fat. It was a very rich dish.

The menu listed loin of loin next. Huh? We chuckled…..was it loin of lion? Hilarious. Turns out it was venison. Louis M. Martini Reserve cabernet sauvignon was poured….still short. Glazed young vegetables like Brussels sprouts, carrots, and beets were scattered beneath two thick slices of roasted venison, cooked perfectly medium rare. Unlike the veal, there was not a speck of fat, yet the dense meat was succulent and smooth, the outside of the roast coated with a spice rub containing a hint of clove. A dollop of caramelized onion stole the show…I savored every sweet bit of it.

On to the cheese course, a segue into dessert. Cumberland, a medium bodied cheese with little holes, reminded me of fontina. It was paired with Ellijay apples, both preserved and cubed, and young arugula.

Time for dessert wine, what appeared to be a Spanish tawney. Our first dessert (yes, there were two!) was a glass cup layered with cranberries, brown sugar streusel, then toasted meringue, providing intense tanginess, crunchy sweetness, and fluffy chewiness, a crazy combo of textures.

Our final course was two dense cubes of Valrhona chocolate ganache with a small scoop of frozen chocolate custard on the side. The best part of the dessert was the thickened sweet potato puree, sprinkled with crispy chocolate nuggets.

Quinones Room lived up to the hype, the seamless execution a study in precision, both in service and in the food itself. Was it the best meal I’ve ever had? Quite possibly.

1198 Howell Mill Road 404-365-0410

The expectations that come with a name like Tantra are hard to ignore….dining there would be a sensual experience. But just how sexy can food be? Sure, there would be raw oysters and cocktails with tantilizing names like the Forbidden Fruit. The space was dimly lit, as expected. Red velvet banquettes and chairs….check. Kama Sutra-esque artwork….check. The atmosphere was adequately sultry.

LC joined me, seated at a table in the main dining room. I was hoping for a secluded booth, perhaps with curtains, so we could feed each other succulent morsels in privacy. Starting off with specialty cocktails, I tried the Gigi, a bubbly drink made of prosecco, Gran Marnier, and blood orange juice, while he ordered a drink called Exuding, Stoli Vanilla mixed with almond milk and cinnamon. Both were yummy.

The internationally inspired menu by chef Terry Dwyer features middle Eastern flavors and spiced up American classics. LC and I started with three appetizers. Paneer and mushy pea samosas with a cilantro yogurt sauce were tasty but not quite as good as the delish chicken version at Spice Market.

He also got the short smoked salmon rolls with basil, mint, cilantro, and arugula. Their phallic shape was the sexiest part of the dish. LC enjoyed them but I thought the salmon was a little fishy.

More foreplay came in the form of foie gras. I’m in love with it. Seared and served with pear and quince chutney, brioche, and sauterne-saffron gelee, the piece was large enough to be duck rather than goose. That’s OK. I revisited my old habit of requesting a handful of undressed field greens with it to balance the richness of the foie gras. Noticing that many of their dishes contained mint, I specified only greens, no mint. However, the dreaded herb was mixed in among the greens. Nonetheless, it was my favorite dish of the evening, every rich bite matched with a sweet bit of chutney. I was particularly impressed that the brioche was dry and crisp, not greasy like it so often can be. The removal of the mint leaves was an easy task that hardly detracted from my enjoyment.

I switched up my drink to red wine as we awaited our two entrees. Basil caramelized scallops came with golden potato puree as did the strip steak, so we substituted mushroom-herb polenta with the scallops to avoid being redundant. The scallops were nicely seared but overly salty. They also came with ginger braised collard greens. Although slightly undercooked, their flavor was awesome.

The steak was cooked to the correct temperature but didn’t melt in my mouth. It required more chewing than I would have liked. Asparagus and potato puree alongside were not noteworthy.

Other entrees include chili seared Hawaiian tuna and pan roasted seabass. There isn’t anything inherently sexy about either of these dishes, but maybe if a hot guy is buying it for you it’ll turn you on.

We chose another side, the sauteed okra, to share. It would have been more sensual to feed them to each other by hand but that may have drawn unwanted attention so we ate them with our forks. We both loved this dish.

Ending on a sweet note, we sampled the ice cream sandwich…. orange honey and rosemary ice cream nestled between two chewy molasses spiced cookies. Unfortunately, the nutmeg and cloves in the cookies overpowered the subtle flavors of the ice cream.

2285 Peachtree Road 404-228-7963

A RE-RUN ON THE EVE OF THE PIEDMONT PARK DINNER PARTY! Of course I’m attending….how could I not?

Exclusive, invitation only dinner parties held in secret locations, announced at the last minute, with a secret menu revealed once guests are seated. Sounds tantalizing, no?

The speakeasy of supper clubs, Dinner Party Atlanta is a hot ticket among foodies. The brainchild of Darren Carr and Patrick La Bouff of Top Flr, it’s a brilliant concept combining the element of surprise with culinary genius. Be prepared for anything as chef Shane Devereux, also of Top Flr, presents five courses, each with stunning precision and evolved flavors.

B and I had the dinner and the party last night! Held in the space on Edgewood that will soon house Darren’s and Jeff Myers’ new restaurant, Darren was reluctant to spill the beans about this project, although word is it is scheduled to open in March.

Upon arrival, Darren was on hand to greet guests and direct them upstairs where the future restaurant’s kitchen and dining room are located. Red brick walls were lined with gorgeous black and white photography by Craig Bromley. A long communal table set for twenty diners promised an evening of lively conversation and making new friends, although it was cool to see an old friend, OB, who happened to be in attendance as well. A sexy crowd, sexy lighting, and sexy staff, set the stage for some sexy food!

Each of us sipped a special rum cocktail shaken up by Paul, called The Hesitation, as we mingled. Once seated, the real excitement was underway. Sommelier Valerie Masten poured a semi-sweet riesling that paired perfectly with our first course of foie gras torchon with toasted brioche, apple miso butter and a tiny clump of watercress.

Ya know, I prefer my foie gras seared. The process of making foie gras torchon is a rigorous one which Devereux described in detail….TMI dude! Deveining goose liver is not an enviable task, but the result was a smooth and fatty disc. The sweet accompaniment and bread to cut the richness made for a classic starter.

Seated next to JR, a man with a palate that can detect a single molecule of an ingredient, made for an engaging discussion of each course, the second of which was a chilled leek and marcona almond soup, pureed with cream and garnished with a salad of lobster, chopped black grapes, almonds and a drizzle of pumpkin seed oil. It rocked, but B and I didn’t love the white Italian wine served with it.

Squab is a fancy word for pigeon. Not the NYC “flying rat” variety but a domesticated version whose meat is reminiscent of duck. This was the protein in our third course, the breast pan seared medium rare and a leg confit served atop fingerling potatoes and diced pork belly which added a touch of smokiness to the dish….delish. Valerie chose a Spanish red, Petalos 2007, which was my favorite wine of the evening.

Among chef Devereux’s technically difficult preparations was the sous vide saddle of rabbit, our fourth course. It’s like they read our minds (or my blog)….B and I love bunnies! But I had never tried it cooked sous vide, a method of slow cooking any meat in a vacuum sealed bag under water at a constant low temperature. Turnip puree with a touch of Greek yogurt provided a hint of bitterness against the surprise addition of golden raisins. Braised artichoke gave the dish an extra punch, a perfect study in contrast of texture and flavor. A dry Italian red worked well with it.

Dessert was far better than its description. A thin disc of almond cake was topped with pear mousse, then a soft mascarpone cheesecake spiced with cinnamon and allspice. The best fucking thing was the dried fig and pear compote alongside it. I ate mine and half of B’s too. Valerie chose an awesome auslese riesling to sip with the sweets.

It was a stellar experience and worth every dollar. Naturally, we headed to Top Flr for one last drink. My favorite anglianico was no longer offered by the glass so I chose Easton zin, an old standby. I don’t remember much after that, but my hair smelled of cigarettes this morning.

With a wait list of 700, they will be doing a large scale event on May 1st in Piedmont Park to seat 200 guests.

Dinner Party Atlanta is a kickass experience. I wouldn’t expect anything less from the guys at Top Flr!

Hello again, old friend! We sure did miss you, with your elegant good looks and playful staff. B and I finally made a long-overdue appearance at our old haunt, the Bar at Livingston.

A couple of glasses of A to Z’s Night and Day got us off to a lively start. Sous chef Zeb came over and said hello. He would send out a couple of dishes for us to try. Lovely! I was craving the short rib ravioli, but alas, it was gone from the menu.

Duck sausage accompanied by seared foie gras, which I’m assuming was also duck, came with cubes of fennel dressed in a slightly sweet black pepper gastrique rather than the standard toast and marmalade that often show up with foie gras. Zeb Stevenson, Mennie’s sous chef, has become bored with that presentation (and so have I). There was just enough sweetness to pair well with the rich meats without being cloying. For sausage and foie gras, the dish was surprisingly light.

A crispy cube of pork belly sat upon a puree of apricot and was served with two big Spring pea raviolis topped with chopped peanuts for crunch. We really liked this starter but would have liked it more had we not been spoiled by the short rib raviolis on prior visits. As we told Zeb over more wine on the patio, that dish was orgasmic! We begged him to put it back on the menu….please.

B and I lingered for a while, having an entirely inappropriate and entertaining conversation with Zeb. We’ll be back for another visit soon to reclaim our regular spots at the bar!

659 Peachtree Street @ The Georgian Terrace 404-897-5000

The Westside is exploding! From Abattoir to Miller Union, art galleries to furniture stores, The West Egg and Baccanalia now have a new slew of gentrified neighbors. Bocado is the latest boom….ST and I visited Saturday night. The staff was more than accommodating as our asses arrived an hour late.

Brian Lewis, the owner of Bocado, is not British but he begs the description (spoken with a British accent) of a “brilliant fellow”. His personal attention throughout our meal was charming. He recommended a hearty, spicy red and does a stellar job with the wine program, owing in part (I’m sure) to his family’s vineyard.

Bocado means mouthful in Portugese, although the menu is entirely American. I don’t get that.

The space is modern, spare, fresh. ST described it as vibrant. I like that. The crowd is hip and they know it. Light wood tables and matching mod chairs rest upon the ubiquitous concrete floors. Some walls sport shades of green. Only a tiny vase of sage and thyme decorate each table. Stainless steel lamps hang above the central servers’ station. I can imagine it will be awesome to sit on the patio here in the Spring.

We started with mussels and brussels, not because it rhymes (although that would be a compelling reason) but because I love both. Bocado’s mussels rest in a white wine broth with shallots, basil, and chilies. Not bad, not great, a little plain I guess. Unfortunately, I could not detect any chilies which would have added some much-needed zing. Brussels sprouts boasted a vinegary tang from the capers, and were further dressed with thyme, parmesan, and tiny croutons. A bit undercooked and underseasoned for my taste.

It’s impossible not to compare Bocado to Miller Union, particularly since B and I ordered clams (served in their shells like mussels) and brussels there as well. Sorry, but Miller Union kicks Bocado’s ass. Their clam’s broth was a heady combination of bacon and fennel, the brussels were soft, charred in bacon drippings with herbs.

As a third starter I considered the veal cheek with creamy polenta or the crab fritters with an Asian salad, but ended up with the damn foie gras even though it was au torchon. I don’t even like that preparation but I still could not resist! It was the sweet potato and date condiment that convinced me. Again, disappointment reared its ugly head. The slice of foie gras sat upon a condiment that tasted only of applesauce. Chicken liver “goodness” comes with applesauce….maybe they served me the wrong liver to see if I knew the difference? Hmmm. Regardless, we spread it on the toasts and ate it.

On to the entrees there are a couple of items that I’ve been reading about….one blogger loves the burger stack, another loves the pimento cheese sandwich. I would never order a pimento cheese sandwich without a strong recommendation but I had to see what all the fuss was about. The components of this sandwich are roasted poblano, pimento cheese, bacon, and fried green tomato….sounds like a clusterfuck to me. Well, it wasn’t. It was kickass! The warmth of the roasted pepper, fried green tomato and toasted bread just barely melting the pimento cheese, served with a flavorful bowl of tomato bisque.

The burger stack was similarly drool worthy. A stack of three thin yet juicy patties with American cheese and housemade pickles, served with pretty good fries. I like my burgers thick, cooked medium, but since this is a stack of patties they are more medium-well to well. Not as good as The Nook’s awesome burger with smoked gouda and bacon but still worth a try.

Other plates include a flatiron steak, Chesapeake flounder and oyster stew. Four artisinal cheeses are offered as well. Executive chef Todd Ginsberg, formerly of Trois, stopped by our table. Unpretentious, a genuinely nice guy.

Dessert looked better than it tasted…..chocolate pudding with peanut butter whipped cream served in a Mason jar. The texture of the pudding was extremely dense, almost like fudge. It was just OK.

I really want Bocado to thrive but I fear the fierce competition in this hot neighborhood could suffocate it before it has a chance to find its identity.

887 Howell Mill Road 404-815-1399 www.bocadoatlanta.com

Helen, Georgia is known for its Bavarian facade and mostly Americanized German fare like bratwurst and sauerkraut. There are also the ubiquitous and decidedly un-German funnel cakes.

However, for the past nine or so years, visitors have had another more upscale option, Nacoochee Grill. The atmosphere is country casual in a remodeled old house next to the Habersham Winery. But the food is high quality, which is reflected in prices higher than average for the area.

Under new ownership the menu has undergone some changes recently, although I can’t complain. They had a seared foie gras special a couple of months ago that was fantastic and only $13, a bargain by Atlanta restaurant standards. I enjoyed it as my entree with one of their baked sweet potatoes and awesome salad on the side. (see my earlier post Foie Gras and Hot Boiled Peanuts in Helen, GA)

My parents and I have had dinner at Nacoochee numerous times, my Mom usually ordering the grilled Szechuan glazed salmon and my Dad sticks with blackened or grilled fish of some variety. I’ve been known to have the duck, pork chop, skewered shrimp and scallops, or fish, depending on my mood, all of which are served with a choice of two sides.

I’m very picky about my salads. I eat one almost every day. The side salad here is pretty standard field greens and often includes a few icky wilted leaves but I still love it because their signature honey balsamic dressing is delish!

Other sides served are slow simmered collards, sweet corn pudding, baked sweet potato with cinnamon butter, garlic cheese grits, smashed potatoes, and more, all with a sophisticated Southern accent.

Fried chicken, fried seafood, steaks, and pasta dishes round out the entrees while venison chili, smoked trout chowder, fried calamari, and crab cakes can often be found on the appetizers list. I’ve had the crab cake sandwich, sans bread, as a light lunch and it is pretty tasty.

However, my favorite lunch item is the French Country Salad. My Mom and I used to split it and get another dish like the above-mentioned crab cake or the smoked trout chowder, but recently we’ve taken to ordering two of the salads…..we love it that much! Made with field greens, it is topped with copious amounts of gorgonzola, walnuts, thick-cut bacon, and a few slices of apple and onion. It comes with warm bacon vinaigrette (pretty much just bacon fat which is naturally delicious), but of course, we opt for the house honey balsamic dressing.

Their wine list is mostly from neighboring Habersham Winery. Despite Nacoochee’s lack of German cuisine, do have the riesling, it’s a sweet deal!

Glenwood Park, located just off Moreland and Memorial, is a miniature environmentally friendly live/work/play development designed for easy walkability. My first visit to the neighborhood was with B, to dine at The Shed at Glenwood. So close to my condo, but for the directionally challenged like myself, a world away. The streets were peaceful, clean. There was ample parking beside the restaurant.

Simply outfitted in concrete and wood, the Shed is modern yet warm, due to the dim, romantic lighting….a great spot for a hot date. Cindy Shera, the owner, greeted me and we chatted a bit about her restaurant career and the chef, Lance Gummere.

B was a bit late so I munched on popcorn (they bring out a bowl instead of bread) and checked out the menu which was a little different from the online menu, keeping up with the seasonal ingredients that change frequently.

The buzz here, among foodies, is the chicken hearts. I grew up eating them, although usually just one at a time (a bowl full means a barnyard of dead chickens so I ate the one that came with the one chicken my Mom cooked, go figure). Anyway, it would be thrown in the pan with the gizzard and liver. I always liked the chewy, sinewy gizzards too. Chicken livers, however, not so much.

When B arrived we decided on some appetizers to share. The chicken hearts are pan fried and served alongside an egg in a basket. That is, a piece of Texas toast with a hole cut out in which an egg is soft fried. It would be an awesome hangover breakfast! We also ordered the butternut squash soup which was classic and comforting. B loves oysters so she got four. I ended up eating two because the sauce was so good…..was it bearnaise, hollandaise? I’m not certain but I think even dirty socks would be delicious dipped in it.

Much like his mentor Shaun Doty, chef Gummere likes his offal and includes a chicken liver bruschetta (which we did not have) and a foie gras torchon. Not my favorite preparation, torchon means it is made into a terrine, not seared. Served chilled with a warm apple jam and country bread, the flavor was rich and rich.

The wine list included an old favorite, Steel Stymie. It’s a merlot that drinks a little more like a zin and is not offered by the glass so I had to order a bottle. No worries, with the new liquor laws in Georgia, one can recork a bottle and take it home, in the trunk of course. I was thinking this might happen since I had already had a bottle of Lambrusco earlier in the day, then a couple of beers. Our fabulous server Paul patiently brought out several tastes of other selections for us.

For entrees (yes, we ate all this and then entrees and desserts too!), B ordered the grilled ribeye, medium rare, with jumbo lump crabmeat and roasted brussels sprouts. If you are a regular reader you know by now that we both love brussels sprouts! Although B said the steak was cooked beyond medium rare (it was), the flavor was still delicious, the pairing of crab and brussels complementing the beefiness. And it was enormous.

I went for the crispy pork belly, served with polenta and organic baby turnips. Reminiscent of duck skin with the fat beneath its crisp surface, the savory pork skin concealed the juicy and rich meat. The theme of the evening: fat. But don’t let my appetite for it deter you….one can eat light at The Shed too. Diver scallop ceviche, roasted beet salad, chicken salad stuffed banana peppers to start or the chicken breast with local okra and stewed tomatoes. Speaking of tomatoes, they showed up on my pork dish. Not that I don’t like tomatoes, I do. Love them in fact. But not with meat, especially fish. So my polenta was flavored with tomatoes, overpowering my baby turnips. I was hoping the turnips would be braised or browned, maybe with some Vidalia for sweetness. I always like a touch of sweetness with pork.

The lack of sweet accompaniment with my meat was well compensated for by way of a trio of desserts. Four little chocolate peanut butter bars, and a fluffy homemade ding-dong couldn’t compete against the warm cream cheese brownie with homemade vanilla ice cream….we couldn’t stop eating it!

The Shed at Glenwood 475 Bill Kennedy Way www.theshedatglenwood.com 404-835-4363