Hot Dish Review

Recently, I’ve found myself at quite a few business lunches. Eating is not the main focus, as the meal is often an extention of the actual meeting, peppered with plenty of negotiating disguised as playful banter.

However, it is rather intriguing to analyze who orders what and how they eat it. It is somewhat of an experiment in nutrition knowledge and dining etiquette when out with a group that are strangers on a personal level. Who knew my manager was allergic to shellfish? (note to self), or that the guy I email twenty times a day is a vegetarian? And there’s always one poor guy that holds his fork like he’s gripping the handle of a shovel.

A group of us, some from Universal Orlando and the rest from my office, recently had lunch at Marlow’s Tavern. There are now seven locations and I couldn’t tell you which one it was….perhaps Duluth or Vinings? The only table large enough to accommodate our group of eight was on the patio, where we sat in the sweltering heat with an occasional breeze to cool us off. Each of us went through a pitcher of drinks, from iced tea to Coke.

LC always takes charge with the ordering of appetizers for the table. This time he selected asparagus fries and the shrimp flatbread, which I was considering for my entree. Asparagus fries are just what you’d expect, a silly excuse to fry another innocent vegetable, tricking the average person into thinking they are eating healthy.

On the other hand, the flatbread was crisp and light, topped with a little melted cheese, spinach, chopped tomatoes and shrimp….a great option for a light lunch.

A few guys ordered chicken paninis, there was one fish sandwich special, and two orders of shrimp and grits. Servings are enormous, perfect for your typical fat suburban Americans, which seems to be the restaurant’s target market. Described as tavern fare with an upscale twist, the shrimp and grits is a good example, served with two white cheddar grits cakes atop a bed of spinach (there’s that healthy vegetable serving!), then topped with shrimp and doused with a creamy sauce beure blanc. I wish I had taken a photo, this massive meal could sink a ship!

My colleague/boyfriend LC (yes, I am officially insane) and I both ordered the “infamous” fish tacos, in an effort to eat light. I would have ordered a salad but the best option was the steak and blue cheese, similar to the lunch I had with this same group the day before at Ted’s Montana Grill (post coming soon).

Having had a horrific version of them at Sunset Cove the week before, there was little chance that these could be worse. Just because you serve a meat with flour tortillas does not make it automatically a taco.

However, just like salad doesn’t mean low-calorie, fish isn’t always healthy. Although the huge pieces of tilapia were grilled and blackened (loads of sodium), not fried, they were encased in a fried flour shell, accented with romaine, black bean and corn salsa, and a big dollop of smoked chili cream. I requested avocado and cheese for my tacos, after all, what are tacos without cheese? And a small salad as my side, which was topped with feta cheese. LC ordered the jalapeno corn grits as his side.

We both enjoyed the tacos but I still can’t figure out why they are called “infamous”.

Weeks after our drive back from Kentucky, I am finally getting to the food. Derby parties consisted of plenty of liquor and the ubiquitous BBQ. Dry rubbed or smoked, BBQ was present at practically every meal, from the sandwiches at Churchhill Downs to the graduation party we attended right before hitting the road.

Not that the BBQ wasn’t delicious. We had amazing ribs, tender pulled pork and juicy chicken slathered in mustardy sauce. But folks that know me know that BBQ is not at the top of my list.

On our way back to Atlanta, LC and I stopped for dinner at O’Charley’s somewhere in Tennessee. Another thing I’m not a fan of….national restaurant chains. But at least we’d have the option to eat something other than BBQ!

Having stopped at an off-track betting place on the Kentucky border where LC won a couple of grand, we were running late, so we took a seat at the bar in hopes of getting a quick meal. We didn’t even order any drinks.

The menu at O’Charley’s doesn’t hold any great surprises. Its choices, like potato skins and spinach artichoke dip, are pedestrian yet somehow comforting as well.

LC decided on the cedar planked tilapia with broccoli cheese casserole on the side. A special appetizer of chicken tortilla soup was half price, so he got that to start. I ordered the California chicken salad, a dish that has become somewhat standard, even at chains. Made with grilled chicken on field greens and romaine, it was topped with blue cheese crumbles, dried cranberries, candied pecans, mandarin oranges and strawberries. Fruit overkill. LC had the strawberries and mandarins for dessert.

His soup was a tasty bowl of sodium. The “healthy” fish entree was slathered with butter and the broccoli, of course, was baked with cheese, cream, and butter. Vegetables just aren’t worth a darn without cheese, right? Despite the butter, it probably was the least artery clogging dish on the menu.

Honestly, my salad was really good, although I’m pretty sure the chicken was not organic. The greens were fresh and crisp and the contrast of tart cranberries and sweet candied pecans has become a classic.

I can’t say I’d choose O’Charley’s in the city limits, given the numerous authentic restaurants, but it was a good choice on the road.

Recommended by my Godmother’s husband, Pizza Pie (pronounced “pee”) is located in Braunfels, a tiny town just ten minutes from our tiny town, and home to one of my favorite castles. I was excited to get out of the house and spend some time among the antiquities contained within the old stone walls that surround the castle.

Little did I know that the restaurant is not near the castle, but rather a couple of miles away at a tennis center. It’s one of those places with a 15 page menu, with everything from pork to pasta. Oh, and they do serve pizza.

My Mom treated me, my cousin and her two daughters to lunch there after a brief souvenir run by the castle. It took some time to review the lengthy menu but the five of us finally decided on five vastly different entrees.

Three of them ordered salads, one of which was drowned in creamy dressing, the others with dressing on the side. An appetizer of bruschetta looked good but I didn’t get a taste due to the language barrier. Our table received one baked rigatoni, an enormous portion that got good reviews. Another, my Godchild, ordered a Hawaiian pizza. Nothing about it looked good. The crust wasn’t browned, and the toppings of ham, tomato, and pineapple made the center soggy. She didn’t like it.

Mom ordered fish, confirming that it was sauteed and not fried, however it turned out to be breaded. Plain boiled potatoes were served alongside. I tried a bite and was not impressed. My cousin ordered the ham, covered with a brown gravy. She offered me a taste and I was, again, not impressed. She seemed to enjoy it, though.

Lastly, I ordered the pork with mushrooms, croquettes, and vegetables. A strange choice for me, but not as strange as the crepes I almost ordered. The meat was overcooked and drenched in the same brown gravy, this time with the addition of mushrooms. Carrots and broccoli were the chosen vegetables. The potato croquettes were simply glorified tater tots. I swear, nothing on my plate had any flavor except the carrots.

The only other patrons at the restaurant were as weathered as the castle, which explains the old-fashioned menu and somewhat stodgy atmosphere. I’m sure it is better during the Summer when their patio is open, and perhaps after the consumption of a few alcoholic beverages.

This gastro pub in the heart of L5P is owned by chef Nick Rutherford, who’s culinary pedigree has earned him and his establishment much praise.

Located in the long, narrow space that was once Bridgetown Grill, I can’t walk into The Porter without being transported back in time to the days when me and the boys in The Tombstones would take up residency in the big booth up front, ordering pitchers of cheap beer, Jamaican veggie patties, jerk chicken, and more beer.

Gone are the bright tropical walls and booths, replaced by warm hues of brown. It’s a cozy space condusive to sampling unusual brews and creative pub fare. And I love the little touches like serving water in Mason jars.

I’ve had stellar mac ‘n’ cheese and crazy good goat cheese fritters on previous visits. Although I’ve heard mostly positive reports on Rutherford’s entrees, I’ve yet to venture past the starters.

LC and I stopped in recently, choosing a secluded booth in the back. The Porter’s beer list can be daunting despite the fact that it is catergorized by type….430 choices from ales to stouts.

Unlike most pubs, however, The Porter’s other focus is the food. We started our visit with the obvious….goat cheese fritters which look unnervingly like cheese sticks of the frozen mozzarella variety, but are rather filled with soft, warm goat cheese. The fritters are finished with a sprinkling of black pepper and a generous drizzle of clover honey. Sweet, savory, and perfect with a beer like my Brooklyn Chocolate Stout.

Wanting to try at least one new dish, I ordered the mussels, in a simple broth made with Dogfish Head 60 Minute and tomato water. Too simple. They were delivered with a smattering of coarsely minced garlic which I found rather off-putting. The crusty bread was good but I didn’t like the broth enough to sop it up. No comparison to the amazing mussels at Top Flr.

LC tried The Porter’s take on the traditional pub meal of fish ‘n’ chips. He enjoyed the flaky fried cod but, again, I didn’t find anything above average in the flavor or presentation, although I thought it was fun that Rutherford uses Terrapin Golden Beer in the batter. Belgian fries seasoned with garlic oil were perfectly crispy, but LC didn’t care for them.

The Porter offers a few beer “flights”, inviting guests to sample beers they may not have tried before. Turns out, the flavor profiles and nuances of beer are much more complicated than wine.

And you thought beer was for dummies.

1156 Euclid Avenue 404-223-0393

When I visited my folks in Florida last Thanksgiving, we stopped by Neon Leon’s for a drink after dinner one night. I didn’t get a chance to sample their Cajun cuisine so it was on my hot list a couple of weeks ago when LC and I made the trip South.

The restaurant’s neon, beads, and live zydeco music on the weekends make it the obvious choice for a Mardi Gras celebration any time the mood strikes.

It was a Friday night and the place was packed with locals. Men in T-shirts and caps dined on plates of fried anything, raising their cans of PBR after each song. We were seated unfortunately close to the stage, making converstion nearly impossible.

My Dad doesn’t waste any time when it comes to food, ready to place his order before we were seated. Me and both of my parents ordered the trio of Cajun favorites….seafood gumbo, etouffee, and jambalaya. I was hoping the dishes would be spicy and ordered a Corona Light to quench the fire. LC was the lone holdout, going for the blackened grouper special, with fried okra on the side.

Even though fried green tomatoes are really a side dish, like so many other restaurants, Neon Leon’s offer them as an appetizer. The menu says “can’t get ‘em anywhere else”. I was compelled to try them, although I suspected they would be heavily breaded. I was right, and glad I wouldn’t be able to get them anywhere else. The ones I make at home are a thousand times better.

Aside from Cajun classics, Neon Leon’s specializes in char-grilled steaks. They also have some unusual items, frog legs and gator tail in particular.

LC’s fish was perfectly grilled and seasoned, however his fried okra was as disappointing as the fried green tomatoes, with a batter so heavy it completely masked the flavor of the vegetable.

Our Cajun samplers came out with three bowls inexplicably sitting upon a scant bed of field greens….likely the only use for lettuce at this restaurant. The contents of one bowl was beige. It was the etouffee. My Mom described the sauce as pasty and I agreed.

We each received a dish of dirty rice which I added to the gumbo, along with a few drops of hot sauce. Plump shrimp and okra came together for an authentic and tasty soup. Another bowl contained a deep red soup, the jambalaya. Full of red beans, shrimp, sausage, and chicken, this dish was definitely my favorite. It was spicy enough without the addition of hot sauce.

I can’t pass up bread pudding for dessert. Topped with vanilla ice cream, the pudding was exceptionally dense with an overwhelming flavor of nutmeg. Not so great, but the four of us polished it off.

Neon Leon’s is truly a hidden gem, tucked away in the woods in the middle of Florida, but it’s clear that lots of folks have found it over the years, making it a destination for Cajun food and entertainment.

10350 W. Yulee Drive, Homosassa, FL 352-621-3663

After spending a day at Universal Studios and Islands of Adventure in Orlando riding roller coasters like two hyperactive teenagers, LC and I made an early evening of it, getting plenty of rest in preparation for our long drive home the next day.

Before we hit the highway, we had a lovely lunch with a couple of LC’s business associates at Seasons 52. It had been a long while since I dined at the health-conscious chain’s Atlanta location next to Perimeter Mall, so it would be interesting to dine here, at the restaurant’s original spot. I used to make a habit of getting their steak and blue cheese flatbread to go a few years back…..sorta like a guilt-free pizza.

We chose a table on the patio overlooking the lake, with a view of our resort on the other side, and ordered unsweetened iced tea all around. Our dining companions ordered cedar plank salmon and caramelized sea scallops, while LC chose the blackened fish tacos. It was the duck chopped salad for me….quelle surprise!

CK enjoyed his salmon, served with carrots, asparagus, and red bliss potatoes. LK gave me one of her succulent scallops and a bite of the accompanying pearl pasta….very tasty.

There were three fish tacos on LC’s plate, each wrapped in a small soft whole wheat tortilla. Low-fat taco toppings and some crisp lettuce were cool and refreshing against the spicy grilled fish. Nice flavor.

On my very first visit to Seasons 52, I ordered a duck salad. It was lunch, and it was pretty good. I remember the portion size being noticeably smaller than typical restaurant plates, thereby controlling calories. So I couldn’t resist the Maple Leaf Farms duck chop salad, with jicama , grilled pineapple, toasted almonds and a sesame dressing. The chopped ingredients were served in a clear cylinder which our server removed upon presenting my plate. Clever and somewhat over the top.

My duck wasn’t extremely tender but it was nicely seasoned with Asian spices. Crisp slices of jicama, crunchy nuts, and tart pineapple provided plenty of texture and flavor contrasts. I would have guessed the salad to have around 325 calories. Since Seasons 52 puts all the nutritional info on their website, my curiousity couldn’t be contained, so I looked it up. I was surprised to discover it had 440 calories, and a little dismayed that it contained 1338 grams of sodium….yikes! Another frightening statistic, 35 grams of sugar….what what?

Nonetheless, I couldn’t put my fork down until my plate was cleaned. The four of us found ourselves helpless when confronted with the restaurant’s signature “mini indulgences”, tiny parfait versions of classic desserts.

We each had a different sweet treat; key lime pie and lemon mousse for our friends, pecan pie with vanilla mousse for LC, and mocha macchiato for me. Coffee and chocolate combos always lure me in. Just a tiny, innocent dessert, right? OMG, imagine my shock and horror to discover this mini indulgence was loaded with 42 grams of sugar and 370 calories! Deceptive? Not really. Considering there are 500-800 calories in a single slice of regular pecan pie, their mini version comes in considerably lighter at just 320. Naturally, I chose the most fattening of all the minis on offer.

Although we started early, our lunch went on for quite some time, full of witty conversation. Gallons of iced tea later, LC and I made our way to the interstate, headed back to the big city.

Now I’m sorta craving one of those flatbreads.

7700 Sand Lake Rd. 407-354-5212

The Sunday before Thanksgiving LC and I somehow ended up at Goin’ Coastal….again! We weren’t planning on eating actual dinner, maybe just a watermelon margarita and a crab cake, something light.

Little did we know that they do a Sunday supper. Diners choose an entree item and four sides, plus soup and dessert. It was so inexpensive, only $17, how could we say no?

We ordered the collard greens, cheese grits, grilled asparagus, and potatoes, but it was the jalapeno cornbread pudding that I was craving….so we got five sides.

Despite the season, they still had the watermelon margaritas. Sweet and tart with a jalapeno kick.

Tomato bisque came as a starter. It’s not my favorite soup. Their collards were bland as always, lacking that vinegary punch. Jalapeno cornbread pudding wasn’t as spicy as usual, but was satisfying nonetheless, as were the creamy grits with gouda. I hardly remember the asparagus and potatoes but I think LC liked them.

I was most impressed with the grilled swordfish, displaying a smoky flavor and meaty texture. Goin’ Coastal uses simple cooking methods that don’t overwhelm the delicate fish with sauces or spices, and a minimal amount of oil, making it not only sustainable, but healthy as well.
Not only did we have the savory cornbread pudding, but also a dense chunk of sweet bread pudding for dessert. Although we were both stuffed, we managed to take a few bites, dragging our spoons through the liquor-spiked vanilla sauce beneath it.

Driving by the restaurant twice a day, I noticed they are now offering a lobster dinner deal Monday through Wednesday for just $15! There may be time restrictions, like the Sunday supper’s 5pm-10pm window, but hell, it’s worth checking out. I believe they are doing the lobsters with all the fixin’s for pick-up on New Year’s Eve too. Now that sounds like a great way to celebrate!

1021 N. Highland Ave. 404-941-9117

Driving through my neighborhood a few months ago, I noticed a new restaurant had quickly taken over Figo’s old location. It would have been hard to miss, with its red awning sporting a catchy name and tagline, Goin’ Coastal….a sustainable seafood joint.

My curiousity piqued, I googled it. The original location is in Canton. Happily, I do not know exactly where that is. I’m a city chick and easily develop amnesia regarding suburbs, not to mention my direction dyslexia.

I love seafood, primarily shellfish. And the promise of super-fresh seafood fished from environmentally sound waters is certainly appealing! LC accompanied me, ready to do some serious seafood sampling.

Black and white photos of fishermen adorn the pale turquoise walls. Reddish wooden chairs with black leather seats and solid black wood tables sit upon concrete floors. The open kitchen and bar sit a few steps above the main dining room in the multi-level space. Pendant lights emit a soft glow, illuminating the blackboards with daily specials. Brown paper table-dressings add a casual flair to the fishy theme but I couldn’t shake the feeling that it was a chain. Almost too clean, it felt like it was a concept being groomed for franchising.

Starting in on the specials before taking our drink order, our server was clearly nervous. Perhaps it was her first day but as the evening wore on she proved to be quite competent. Water please.

She brought out a basket of what can best be described as corn muffins. Too cakelike in texture, straight-up cornbread would have been better. I needed a drink. For a seafood joint their cocktail list was quite intriguing. I ordered the coconut lime rickey and LC tried the watermelon jalapeno margarita.

We started off with sweet potato chips with a blue cheese dip, a bowl of she crab soup and a baked oyster sampler. I don’t know what I was expecting but the chips were just like the ones you can buy in a bag in the health food section at the supermarket. I guess I was hoping they would be very thickly sliced, or perhaps spiced with cayenne or black pepper or something. On the plus side, they were not at all greasy, just nothing special.

Our cocktails, however, were special! I enjoyed my rickey but it was LC’s watermelon jalapeno margarita that stole the show. Only mildly sweet with the fruit juice and slightly tart from a dash of fresh lime, it finished with a swift kick in the pants from the jalapeno. A salted rim was icing on the cake.

My only experience with she crab soup is, again, from a can at the supermarket. Called she crab because it is made using cream and the roe from the female crab (obviously), it has a distinct, rich flavor. LC and I agreed, Goin’ Coastal’s rendition of this seafood classic did have good flavor but there was something off about the texture.

I’m not an oyster lover but if I must partake, at least I’d rather have them cooked. So we ordered the baked sampler with two Rockefeller, two crab stuffed, and two parmasean garlic. On our order of six, some were huge, some were tiny. Of the three, the crab stuffed were my favorite.

Chef and co-owner Zach Kell brought out a plate of steamed side-striped shrimp from Alaska. Especially sweet, they required no seasoning at all, not even a dip in the drawn butter was necessary.

Along with the peel ‘n’ eat shrimp, our server placed a white ceramic dish on our table with three little white dots inside. Then, from a tiny metal pitcher, she poured water onto the dots, making them expand right before our eyes. They were like freeze-dried towelettes! I was very impressed.

By this time we were on our third watermelon jalapeno margarita each. They packed some heat but clearly not much alcohol. For an entree LC chose the freshly caught swordfish with cheese grits and collards on the side. Despite having tomatoes in it, I ordered the low country boil with scallops, shrimp, crab legs, and mussels plus a side of the jalapeno corn bread pudding.

Simply grilled, I thought the swordfish looked overcooked when it came to the table, but LC loved it. His grits were fantastic. He liked the collards because they weren’t cooked to mush, but they would have benefitted from a liberal dose of vinegar.

My low country boil was good, but not stellar. Fish stews are challenging due to the varying cooking times of different shellfish. The scallops were perfectly cooked leaving the shrimp a tad tough. Crusty bread that came with it was awesome. Although submerged in a tomatoey broth , the crab legs had to be cracked by hand. Thank goodness for the magic towelettes!

The savory and spicy jalapeno corn bread pudding, baked in its own ramekin, turned out to be my favorite dish.

There are many dishes on the menu we didn’t get to taste. I was interested in the fried Creole salad but our server would not endorse it. Lobster and peekytoe crab cakes sound delicious. And I wouldn’t turn down a duo of roasted and fried shrimp served on grits with andouille sausage gravy.

A couple more watermelon jalapeno margaritas went down as we chatted, finishing it all off with a mini chocolate cake with blueberry sauce.

I wanted to love it, I was hoping it would wow me. I think they take great care in their sourcing and I appreciate that but in the end, what works in a small town might not fly smack in the middle of the trendy Virginia Highlands. After all, we are food snobs.

1021 Virginia Avenue 404-941-9117

After my poolside tequila coma, I rebounded nicely in anticipation of dinner somewhere outside the resort. JD’s buddy C lives in Cabo part-time and we had been calling throughout the day. He picked up B and I and we headed to his penthouse. Nice.

Everything in Cabo San Lucas is within walking distance so we headed to the marina where there are numerous seafood restaurants along the water, landing at La Galeria for no particular reason other than it’s decor was vibrant. I was hoping C knew where to eat but he is clearly not into food.

The setting was beautiful, the balmy weather perfect with a gentle breeze. The three of us took a table outside near the water and ordered a couple of margaritas. What could be more appropriate than fish at the marina? Their selection of marisco fresco was broad but we both settled on sea bass, B’s with a caper sauce and mine grilled with spices (I guess they called it blackened but that sounds so 1995). I also requested their cilantro sauce (how could I resist that!) and the mandatory guacamole on the side.

As we chatted and sipped our drinks, along came several friends of C who joined us. Our fish dishes arrived and so did more friends. Soon we had a table of eight.

Both B and I really liked the delicate white sea bass served atop buttery vegetables with a small mound of rice on the side. Her sauce was delicious as was my guacamole. I do wish my fish had been spicier. Later it was explained to me by a native that the food of the Baja Peninsula is not as fiery as that of the southeastern region of Mexico, “where the Mayans lived”, but he could have been full of shit.

After dinner we walked across the street to The Pink Kitty, a club owned by one of C’s friends. How appropriate.

La Galeria, Plaza Bonita 624-1431090

Under normal circumstances I don’t care for re-runs. Here’s an exception: Saturday at the beach was practically a re-run of Friday, but even more fun! MM and I set up camp as the others gathered beers and supplies. The beach was followed by a brief pool visit, then intoxicated showering.

Seafood was in order and George’s was the place. A brief walk, again in heels, brought us to a quaint yet trendy restaurant in a renovated house. We waited a bit for a table since our group was large and ended up seated on the patio, complete with umbrellas decorated with tiny white lights. Cute.

JS and KS had mentioned their colossal frutta di mare quesadillas the day before, big enough for a meal for two. But for a group of nine, KS thought two would be perfect for appetizers. At $29 each, we could barely polish them off. Drizzled with a spicy aoili and topped with pineapple salsa, each quesadilla was filled with lobster, shrimp, crab, and cheese. Really tasty!

MC and KC, who live in a neighboring town, joined us. They ordered a couple of bottles of Shug pinot noir. ST got a glass of chardonnay and I also opted for white with a semi-sweet reisling.

Entrees were mostly seafood dishes like wild salmon with a cinnamon soy glaze or cioppino, the fish stew of mussels, clams, shrimp and fish in a tomato based broth (that I often find revolting due to my distaste of that combo). MC ordered the seared coconut scallops and gave me a taste. Three ginormous orbs atop a bowl of orzo. Although very nicely done, there were three. It was $27.

I opted for the lemongrass curry shrimp, hoping for 7 or 8 huge prawns since we were on the gulf, but was served about 15 smallish shrimp instead, along with lots of green and red peppers. Disappointing, but the flavor was passable. Again, not a bargain at $24.

Strangely, there were lots of Asian notes to the menu and with my relative expertise on Asian cuisine I should know to stay away from it unless I’m on Buford Highway or at an authentic Asian restaurant. But I rarely listen to my own advice.

Also on offer were lamb chops, spicy Mongol beef tenderloin, Kahlua pork tenderloin for strict carnivores.

Then there was the section of seafood bowls, all of which could be ordered grilled or fried. ST got the fried combo…..shrimp, grouper, and oysters. Served with, what else? Fries. Oh, and don’t forget the fried hushpuppies. The crunch of fried foods is practically irresistable, but it bores me after a bite or two. Batter just masks the flavor. I had an oyster and a fry or two (and maybe a bite of a hushpuppy).

A couple of folks got the grilled grouper bowl. My bite, from KC, totally lacked flavor.

They serve a full lunch menu as well with healthy wraps and spa inspired dishes like the toasted macadamia tofu on a bed of soba noodles which I bet has twice the calories you’d think. Soups, salads, sandwiches, all come in around $13.

No room for sweets, thankfully me and ST had dessert before we left the house!

Portions at George’s are big and so are the price-tags. But the food is solid and certainly worth a visit.