Hot Dish Review

Too many Guinness draughts on St. Patty’s Day? Try hair of the Irish dog!

When it comes to world cuisine, Irish is quite likely the one I crave the least. Not a fan of corned beef or fish ‘n’ chips. I’ve never been tempted to try shepherd’s pie or Irish stew. So, when I was asked to write about Brookhaven’s new Irish pub, Olde Blind Dog, I wasn’t drooling like one.

Like stepping into an Celtic theme park, Olde Blind Dog’s owners spared no expense with the decor, importing antique mirrors and intricately carved wood accents from Europe, and creating kitschy elements like windows with faux plants, and “sidewalks” complete with street signs. The centerpiece is a multi-level seating area, with secluded booths called “snugs”, effectively dividing the boisterous bar from the cozy little tables, some of them nestled beneath the stairs, giving guests a wee bit of privacy. BB likened it to Fado on steroids….LOL.

Someone involved in this operation is a marketing genius. The menu is designed to look like an old newspaper called the Daily Dog, featuring the story of the old blind dog himself. A good bit of wit is used to describe the authentic Irish dishes, as well as some more unusual selections like the Celtic Curry.

On the rare occassion I go to an Irish pub, I invariably have an Irish car bomb, a half pint of Guinness with a shot of Jameson’s and Bailey’s dropped in. It has a rich, chocolately flavor. That’s how LC and I started our visit, then promptly ordered a sampling of their best-selling appetizers: tabasco fried pickles, ale and cheddar dip, and a fish slider.

The staff is so well-trained it was impossible to know the place had only been open a week. Service was brisk and enthusiastic. Our awesome server, Martin, said it was quite a challenge to separate the draught line for the Guinness from the other beers, as it was necessary to serve it at 42 degrees rather than the standard American 38 degrees like the other selections. I was impressed. Equally impressive is the fact they make their corned beef in house daily, as well as all of their desserts. Fries and chips are freshly cut, nothing comes in frozen.

We enjoyed pieces of pretzel bread dipped in their signature ale and cheddar dip. When the bread was gone, LC cleaned the bowl out with his finger. He also loves pickles. Deep fry ‘em with a spicy batter and you have a winner. Flaky cod was beer battered on a baby bun with tartar sauce for dipping.

I wanted to try some traditional Irish fare, so I ordered the bangers and mash for my entree. LC went along and tried the corned beef and beer braised cabbage. The presentation was awesome….a mountain of mashed potatoes drizzled with brown gravy surrounded by three grilled sausages, then topped with crispy fried onions. Texturally pleasing and enough to feed a lumberjack.

LC’s dish was a solid interpretation of a classic. A wedge of vinegary cabbage was a perfect compliment to the dense yet inexplicably tender chunks of corned beef. Stewed potatoes and carrots rounded out the plate. The meat was even better the next morning mixed in scrambled eggs, topped with melted cheddar, served with English muffins. Can you believe I actually ate the leftovers?

We ate about a third of our dinner, had it boxed up, then promptly ordered dessert…a wedge of housemade bread pudding. It was studded with dried cranberries and resting in a pool of creme Anglaise. I would have preferred raisins, but it was thankfully not extemely sweet. Most of it also went in a box just to be devoured as soon as we got home.

Parking was a bit of a challenge, forcing many patrons to walk across the parking lot from the nearby Costco. Or, you may snag a spot out front if you have the luck of the Irish! The food at Olde Blind Dog is hearty. And salty. But if you crave Irish food, you’ll freakin’ love it.

705 Town Boulevard 404-816-5739

Please enjoy this vacation rerun as I lounge on the beach drinking Coronas!
Thaicoon. The name of this place has always made me laugh, but they do cook up some serious Thai food. And like many Thai restaurants in Atlanta, they feel compelled to offer sushi, despite this Japanese cuisine being completely unrelated to Thailand.

Nevertheless, this combo gives guests lots of choices…both a good and a bad thing. Basil rolls and spicy basil crispy duck breast? Or edamame, eel, spicy tuna, and avocado with wasabi? This was my dilemma last week when LC and I met my longtime friends SP and her husband AA there for dinner.

But our first dilemma was where to sit. It was as cold as a walk-in freezer inside, yet uninviting and lacking decoration outside. We chose comfort over beauty and picked the corner table on the patio. SP and LC tried Kirin Light and I ordered a cold unfiltered sake, a semi-sweet milky drink that is deceptively high in alcohol.

Each of us would go in a different direction for our entrees, so we ordered a selection of appetizers that incorporated both Japanese and Thai cuisines: edamame, Spring rolls, and basil rolls, the latter proving to be the most delicious of the trio. AA also got a few pieces of nigiri since he was having Thai food later.

I wanted to try the avocado crab salad, reminiscing about a perfect dish of the same ingredients that I used to order at this kickass sushi place in Soho, but alas, it was not the same. Chunks of avocado and shredded (imitation) crab were dressed with spicy mayo and topped with masago and scallion. Good, but it would have been better unspoiled by New York memories.

SP always orders the steamed fish with vegetables. Although cooked with plenty of garlic, it was a bit bland for my taste. LC and I were in the mood for sushi so we split two rolls, the supercrunch and the California eel, neither of which was remarkable. In fact, what the hell was in the supercrunch? LC blurted it out and I was tired of waiting on him to decide so I didn’t read the description, but I swear the only thing inside the roll of rice and seaweed was crunchy bits of batter, no fish of any kind except for the smoked salmon on top. The California roll with eel was better.

AA enjoyed his dish full of plump shrimp in spicy basil sauce sauteed with peppers and onions. I’m looking forward to trying the crispy duck breast in this sauce on our next visit! I couldn’t resist green tea ice cream for dessert….and another bottle of sake.

1799 Briarcliff Road NE 404-817-9805

Crystal River is the quintessential retirement community in central Florida with lots of golf courses and quaint shops. There are also numerous restaurants that serve fresh local seafood….primarily fried. Charlie’s is one of them, located directly on the bay where their own boats bring in the catch of the day to serve and sell in the market.

Open since 1959, Charlie’s hasn’t changed much, including the plastic tablecloths that mirror the nautical decor. The menu reads like any Andy Griffith era seafood diner….hushpuppies, fried oysters, baked potatoes, cole slaw. You get the picture.

Although I tried to discourage it, LC insisted on ordering the shrimp jalapeno popper appetizer. Sure, it would be fried, but the idea of a shrimp surrounded by cream cheese then stuffed inside a jalapeno sounded rather appetizing. And isn’t that what an appetizer’s for?

The time-warp menu comes with matching prices, entrees coming in around $13. Each comes with two sides of your choice. Completely out of character, I ordered the crab stuffed baked tilapia with fried okra and a baked potato. Normally I would include a side salad but my Mom warned me to steer clear of the 1972 throwback made with iceberg lettuce and packaged slivered carrots….keepin’ it classy. Don’t even think about asking for “field greens” here, it would only confuse your waitress. (I would normally say server, but it doesn’t seem appropriate here).

My parents ordered their regular, unadorned broiled fish, ironically with those iceberg side salads.

LC, always willing to clog another artery if need be, chose the scallops Rockefeller, a casserole dish with plump scallops, bacon, and spinach in a cream sauce, topped with shredded cheese and baked until bubbly. Fried okra and corn rounded out his dinner.

Our waitress brought out our beer order and moments later, the appetizer. Four large shrimp covered with cream cheese, then deep fried. But wait, something was amiss….no jalapenos whatsoever. Strange and not-so-appetizing. LC inquired but it only confused our waitress.

My stuffed tilapia was sprinkled with cayenne and baked until the fish was flaky and white….easy enough. Equally hard to screw up is a baked potato, but fried okra is consistently overbreaded wherever I try it and Charlie’s is no different, hense the small brown orbs decorating my plate, cleverly concealing the green vegetable.

LC’s scallops were nice, but the dish was simply too rich. If you get a chance to visit Charlie’s with your great Aunt Betty, stick with the classics….and stay away from the shrimp “jalapeno” poppers.

224 NW US Highway 19 352-795-3949

I promised Patrick the next time I visited The Lawrence I would bring B. A few weeks later I made good on my promise with a Saturday night stop. Unlike my first dinner there, this time the place was packed, buzzing with energy.

Thankfully, there is now a valet service located across the street. I walked into the dimly lit space a few moments before B and spotted Patrick right away, seating the multiple groups that had just arrived. Then, who should appear, but d. How damn appropriate to run into d at Darren and Patrick’s new place, Top Flr’s beautiful cousin The Lawrence. Hugs, kisses, and a confit rabbit recommendation followed.

Having had a split of Gruet Brut at home, I continued with bubbly once we were seated. B chose a red by the glass. She had been on an extended road trip to Santa Fe so there was much to discuss.

In an effort to conserve money and calories, we only ordered entrees. B chose the halibut, due in part to its pairing with candy striped beets. I went with d’s confit rabbit recommendation despite its being served with gnocchi. I try to avoid potatoes or anything made with them. However, chef Shane’s gnocchi are unnaturally light, seemingly whipped with air. Unlike most confit, the rabbit was devoid of crispy skin, leaving the meat naked (a rare instance where naked is not good). Garnished with razor thin slices of colorful radish and kumquat, the plate was otherwise beige. The delicate dish was the essence of early Summer. Unfortunately, I’m a Winter menu kind of gal.

B enjoyed her fish dish, although I found my taste unremarkable. That’s why I don’t order halibut with beets. Having skipped appetizers we had plenty of room for dessert and chose the Thai tea creme brulee’. The wide, shallow container allowed for maximum surface to torch, giving it that crunchy, sugary top. We broke through it to discover tapioca pearls within the creamy custard. Awesome!

We concluded our meal with another round of drinks and a smoke with Patrick and their renowned mixologist Eric Simpkins, who I promised I would try one of his hand-crafted cocktails the next time I come in. There I go making promises again….

905 Juniper Street 404-961-7177

Walking into the dimly lit restaurant it was instantly clear. Underground cool, accidentally refined, The Lawrence epitomizes the style of its owners Darren Carr (of Top Flr, Sound Table, and Dinner Party Atlanta) and Patrick La Bouff (Dinner Party Atlanta).

Having already popped the cork on a bottle of Veuve at home, LC and I continued our 2nd anniversary celebration with a glass of prosecco as we settled into a table by the window. There are no signs that the space once housed Cuerno, then Lupe. Slate and wood dominate, with chalkboard menus decorating the inviting bar.

Executive chef Shane Devereux creates dishes that sound both intriguing and weird, but knowing his work from Top Flr, Sound Table, and Dinner Party, he rarely disappoints. Having said that, I hesitatingly ordered the fried green tomatoes to start. You know how I feel about fried green tomatoes. The plate arrived with three big slices decorated with delicate pickled baby shrimp and watercress. Beneath the tomatoes was a heavy, spicy sauce chef described as a “deviled gribiche”. To the side was a poached quail egg in a little pool of a different, more subtle sauce. Despite the somewhat cumbersome breading, the combination of flavors and textures worked.

A bowl of littleneck clams were next, in an intricate broth flavored with serrano ham, pickled scallions, roasted cherry tomatoes, parsley, thyme, and jalapenos. LC loved ‘em. I asked Patrick for a taste of the golden rice porridge so he delivered a bowl, adorned with feta and baby rye croutons. I thought I tasted oregano, but the menu says marjoram….perhaps there’s a bit of each?

Which pork dish should we try, the belly or the cheeks? I chose the smaller plate of braised pork belly on cornbread puree with smoked sweet tea jus, garnished with crispy julienned pig ear. LC swore he wouldn’t try the pig ears but ended up enjoying them by accident.

I would never have ordered the fish ‘n’ chip salad but the couple dining next to us were fawning over it, nearly orgasmic. The menu description sounds disjointed: trout, lady pea, malt, pickled ramp tartar, fingerlings. What the f*ck? It’s the unexpected handling of each ingredient that make create the wow factor here. For instance, the fingerling potatoes are cut into strings, providing a crispy topping to the fried strips of trout and tender peas.

A textural theme had emerged throughout our meal, each dish (except the clams) had a crunchy element. Some food critics in Atlanta seem to have an issue with this, but I applaud Devereux’s creativity and attention to detail.

For the finale, I was thrilled to see pecan bread pudding with dried cherries on the menu. I’m a self-proclaimed bread pudding expert and found this to be the best I’ve had in years, full of plump, chewy cherries….a sweet ending to a sweet evening.

905 Juniper 404-961-7177

Back to Mexico…..

The staff at the Westin Lagunamar, along with the other hotels along Cancun’s main drag, recommend the same restaurants to every visitor, probably single-handedly responsible for keeping these places in business. Not to say that the food is inferior, but chances are it is not very authentic, catering specifically to tourists. One of them is called El Fish Fritanga, located nearby on the beach.

Although it was a little chilly, LC and I sat outside where the mariachi serenaded us. Nothing fancy, the decor was reminiscent of the casual restaurants that dot any beach in the states, with palm trees wrapped in lights and sand beneath your feet.

Naturally, we started off with margaritas and tried the ceviche with fish and shrimp. Served in a cute dish shaped like a shell, the ceviche was fresh and bright, with a decisive citrus tang. An abundance of cilantro and slices of avocado on top sealed the deal. We transferred spoonfuls of the marinated seafood to individual fish shaped dishes.

For my main dish I ordered the signature fish fritanga, a departure from my usual lobster or shrimp. I was hoping for a recreation of the incredibly spicy fish rubbed with hot chilis then grilled like I had on the beach in Playa del Carmen a few years back. The fritanga, however, was not seasoned with a dry rub but rather topped with a slightly spicy chili sauce. I requested guacamole alongside. It was light and tasty, but not very spicy.

LC ordered shrimp kebabs, simply served with rice and the dreaded Mexican crinkle-cut fries. Although the dish wasn’t terribly exciting, he enjoyed the smoky grilled flavor of the shrimp.

With our healthy appetizer and entree choices, there was plenty of room for dessert! We chose the homemade corn ice cream served in a corn husk. Subtly sweet, we both loved it. Happy and full, we hopped the bus for the brief ride back to our resort.

Once again, I’m off to Mexico!

Wow! I can’t believe it’s been a week since me and B had dinner at El Farallon in Cabo San Lucas. Its spectacular setting overlooking the ocean along the cliffs of the Pedregal Mountains makes it one of the most romantic destinations I have ever visited. Too bad I wasn’t there with a hot man! Ladies, this is where you want to be when your guy asks you to marry him.

The Baja Peninsula is known for its abundance of fresh seafood. El Farallon brings in the catches of the day from the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez and displays them by the kitchen so diners can make their selections.

Having had enough tequila throughout the day to tranquilize a gang of lucha libres, we switched it up to champagne. Seated near the rocky cliff wall surrounded by the warm glow of candles, the weather was perfect. Then along came CG with a bottle of champagne in hand. He escorted us to see the “boat display” to choose our fish, but we both had lobster tunnelvision.

El Farallon has a set five course menu that begins with chips and guacamole made in a traditional molcajete, chunky and delicious. The next course was mussels in a tomato broth. Both B and I dislike tomato with fish so although the mussels were good, it was not my favorite dish. The guacamole was so good I requested a second helping.


A trio of appetizers were delivered. Seabean salad was rather forgettable (I, in fact, couldn’t remember it). Seabass ceviche was tasty but, again, had tomato in it which I found a little unusual. Crispy fried calamari was the winner of the three.

I don’t remember ever seeing a menu. This is unfortunate because having it in front of me now, I see we could have ordered the mixed grill of fish, which includes a lobster. Then we could have tried lots of different fish, but rather, we ordered two lobsters, each one the size of my head (too much of a good thing?)

For her sides, B chose roasted potatoes and grilled asparagus, which she said were very flavorful. My grilled corn was sweet and salty with a satisfying toothesome quality….amazing. I also tried the cilantro rice merely because it had the word “cilantro” in it. Our lobsters were grilled and succulent served with a selection of sauces. B asked for drawn butter that we both dipped into. One of the sauces, most likely the chile ajo, was good and spicy.

There were two choices for dessert and I believe I chose the arroz con leche, but it never arrived. The bill did, however, with each lobster having a $20 upcharge beyond the $80 prix fixe. Thanks for the heads up, Senor Server.

Despite the misunderstandings and missed desserts, it was still an unforgettable meal, at an unforgettable place.

B is addicted to Groupon. She’ll buy anything that’s a good deal….golf lessons, restaurant coupons, clown suits. Once you buy it, you are obligated to use it, no matter how ridiculous it might be. But her recent purchase of a $35 food voucher at La Fourchette for a mere $17 was not ridiculous at all, so we made a reservation for Saturday night.

La Fourchette mean “the fork”, a reasonable monicker for a place that serves French inspired cuisine that one should probably eat with a fork….or does it imply something more?

The restaurant’s sterile glass exterior on busy Piedmont Avenue belies its simple yet inviting space, warmly lit and full of young and trendy diners. B arrived tout de suite and we proceeded to order a couple of glasses of inexpensive bubbly. Cheers!

We had so much catching up to do we almost forgot to look at the menu. Among the list of ten appetizers, a couple intrigued her and a couple intrigued me. I would have tried the smoked trout tart with pink lady apples, or even the foie gras despite its unfortunate au torchon preparation, especially since it was paired with roasted black mission figs and brioche, but it was the pan roasted sweetbreads that made both B and I salivate.

Served on a smudge of slightly bitter fennel puree, and slightly bitter kale, the sweetbreads were thickly sliced and perfectly accented with sweet and tart cherry confiture…a bit of each on my fork reminded me that the generous portion and overall deliciousness made it worth the hefty $16 price tag. There went half our coupon already!

B and I moved on to red wine, giving a spicy red zin a try, at $12 a glass. Our server recommended the grilled loup de mer. B often orders fish so she took his advice. It was served with leeks, crispy fingerlings, and saffron emulsion. She loved the little discs of potato. My bite was tasty but hardly memorable.

I thought momentarily about the bistro steak frites with sauce bordelaise and the grilled pork loin, but was predictably compelled to order the duck confit instead.

Two thigh and leg portions with nicely crisped skin were placed upon a generous heap of black eyed peas and leeks. I was looking forward to the leeks but the side was really just peas…and their eyes were green. It was an odd choice to pair with duck. Much like pork and foie gras, a sweet accompaniment somewhere on the plate is always a nice contrast to rich duck meat. Ironically, the veal was served with apricot puree and brocollini….probably a better match with the duck.

I rarely order chicken because, well, it’s just chicken. But La Fourchette’s roasted chicken with local okra, tomato confit, bacon, and basil puree sounds really good. Entrees ranged from a somewhat boring vegetarian plate with all the sides mentioned above for $18 to B’s loup de mer coming in at a whopping $32.

Much like the interior of the space itself, the duck was nice, just not compelling. Dessert, on the other hand, was a deliriously delicious plate of little square beignets tossed with orange blossom honey and sliced almonds with a bit of honey ice cream on the side. Crisp, light, and sticky, all at the same time.

I hate to belabor the point, but the expenditure at La Fourchette was surprisingly high, especially considering our $35 coupon. But we forked it over, with the sweet memory of the beignets and the last sips of cote de rhone softening the blow.

3133 Piedmont Road 404-748-1229

A lovely dinner….
Pour a glass of wine, sit back and relax folks….this is gonna take a while. Nine courses with wine pairings plus a couple of “gifts from the chef” spanned a solid four hours.

Finding the Quinones Room is somewhat of a treasure hunt….BB and I followed the signs, walked through the breezeway, and down the stairs to the door with the big Q. Neutral curtains parted to reveal an elegant seating area furnished in shades of chocolate and cream. The intimate dining room is to the right with only ten tables covered in white linens. Antique mirrors, Venetian glass chandeliers, and lacquered wood frame chairs with a vintage patina lent a quiet air of Southern moneyed aristocracy.

At first, the service seemed too serious for my taste. There was a selection of water and the delivery of four mini cheese bread sticks before our server, Rafael, introduced himself in a barely audible hush. We would be having the prix fixe menu with the wine pairings….a multi-course marathon that began with a kir royale.

Bread service arrived on a wooden skewer. Various sizes and kinds of bread, from sourdough to onion, complimented by soft, sweet cream butter.

Two mini cheese gougeres were devoured tout de suite, as well as a shot of celery root soup with red onion jam, both gifts from Chef de Cuisine David A. Carson. Little bites that packed big flavor.

Krug Grand Cuvee champagne was poured in advance of our first course. I knew it would be a crudo, something ultra-light. Atlantic blue fin tuna, sashimi style, and Kumamoto oysters were paired with tiny cubes of Asian pear, slivers of radish, the bowl decorated with droplets of shoyu, a type of soy sauce. This would be the only dish I didn’t really enjoy.

For lack of a better monicker, the “drink boy” came by with a 2005 sauternes for our next dish, a foie gras terrine. I commented to BB that I usually prefer foie gras seared. I also noted something peculiar….the drink boy once again short-poured my wine. Perhaps that is a standard practice in fine dining? To pour an almost imperceptibly short glass for the lady at the table.

A square plate came out with a square of the foie gras terrine, accompanied by three, questionably four, preparations of Fuyu persimmon and a little mound of spiced cocoa nibs. There was a persimmon puree, a dollop of persimmon preserves, and a slice of candied persimmon. I believe the streak of orange-y powder along the side was freeze-dried persimmon, but I could be wrong. Each little bite of the decadent foie gras was immaculate, with a smudge of sweet persimmon. What could make it even better you ask? Four baby popovers made with a mild cheese and the slightest hint of sweetness. Heaven.

A row of tiny Nantucket Bay scallops sat upon a cauliflower puree, each one topped with black pearls of caviar. Sauvignon blanc, fresh with hints of grapefruit, paired nicely. Rafael had loosened up as I quizzed him about his former employment. Turns out he has always worked for Quatrano and Harrison, the pair that own Baccanalia, Floataway, Abbattoir, and Star Provisions.

Loup de mer, a simple white fish, was made stunning with its toppings of earthy black trumpet mushrooms and baby potato chips made with fingerlings, all resting on a bed of melted Spring onions. Chardonnay was the obvious choice for wine.

Now things would take a turn for the rich, heavy, dark. Drink boy poured glasses of a 2007 pinot noir from Willamette Valley as the dance of service continued with unwavering steadiness. Truffled cabbage and Jerusalem artichoke provided the creamy base for a chunk of braised veal cheek, so tender it fell apart at the mere sight of my fork. But first BB and I sliced into the crispy veal sweetbreads that crowned the meat, lightly fried in a coating with a hint of nutmeg. He loves sweetbreads. If they were always this good and tender, I can see why. Although small, the braised veal was filling, containing quite a bit of fat. It was a very rich dish.

The menu listed loin of loin next. Huh? We chuckled…..was it loin of lion? Hilarious. Turns out it was venison. Louis M. Martini Reserve cabernet sauvignon was poured….still short. Glazed young vegetables like Brussels sprouts, carrots, and beets were scattered beneath two thick slices of roasted venison, cooked perfectly medium rare. Unlike the veal, there was not a speck of fat, yet the dense meat was succulent and smooth, the outside of the roast coated with a spice rub containing a hint of clove. A dollop of caramelized onion stole the show…I savored every sweet bit of it.

On to the cheese course, a segue into dessert. Cumberland, a medium bodied cheese with little holes, reminded me of fontina. It was paired with Ellijay apples, both preserved and cubed, and young arugula.

Time for dessert wine, what appeared to be a Spanish tawney. Our first dessert (yes, there were two!) was a glass cup layered with cranberries, brown sugar streusel, then toasted meringue, providing intense tanginess, crunchy sweetness, and fluffy chewiness, a crazy combo of textures.

Our final course was two dense cubes of Valrhona chocolate ganache with a small scoop of frozen chocolate custard on the side. The best part of the dessert was the thickened sweet potato puree, sprinkled with crispy chocolate nuggets.

Quinones Room lived up to the hype, the seamless execution a study in precision, both in service and in the food itself. Was it the best meal I’ve ever had? Quite possibly.

1198 Howell Mill Road 404-365-0410

A holiday rerun for your enjoyment (or disappointment, whatever the case may be):
Coming off a six year media love-fest, the guys at Muss & Turner’s, Todd Mussman and Ryan Turner, expanded to Joel’s former space, calling it Local Three. The third partner is chef Chris Hall, a self-taught cook and Atlanta native.

First, I must tell you the directions on their website are completely confusing. I was pretty sure I knew how to get there off I-75, remembering my two visits to Joel years ago. But admittedly, I have a condition I call “direction dyslexia”, so I can’t trust my instincts where directions are concerned. B was meeting me there and helped me get to the parking garage, along with a security officer. Once at the right building, we still had a hard time finding the restaurant. It was a little frustrating.

All the frustration melted away as soon as we walked into the warm and inviting space. There was no hint of its former stuffy self. Taupe and deep purple walls are a soothing backdrop to the rustic wood furnishings, a trio of pig paintings, a velvet Elvis, and soft, flattering lighting. It is gorgeous.

The trio’s sense of humor is immediately evident, not only in the kitschy decor but in the hilarious menu descriptions, like the “chicken liver mousse a.k.a. meat butter”. I love it that they don’t take themselves, or the food, too seriously.

Like at M & T’s, these boys use as much locally sourced produce and meat as possible. From the design of the space to the menu, it’s as if Abattoir and Miller Union had a precocious child. You will notice that every price on the drink menu ends in a “3″.

B and I were excited about our dining experience, having heard only good things about Local Three. We wanted to start off with a glass of red wine, both of us choosing the Guenoc Victorian Claret, described as “a Big One”…..no surprise there!

On to appetizers, we tried a couple of cheeses and two selections of charcuterie because they were made in-house by Mussman and listed under the heading “Notorious P.I.G.”. Gotta love it. Served with pear compote, honey, and crisp flatbread, I liked the presentation, and it was just perfect with the wine.

With the current battle of the Brussels sprouts in full swing, we ordered their crispy Brussels, listed under “snacks”. Stay tuned for a separate post on those.

B became fixated by the menu’s section called “Today” featuring items that are limited in quantity. In particular, she had her heart set on the salad of Hammock Hollow Farms baby Spring lettuce, radish, Blue cheese, and herb croutons. It didn’t excite me, but the salad of Winter greens on the regular “Appetizers” section certainly did. I make my own Winter greens salad so I was curious to see how Local Three’s version would compare.

A compilaton of frissee, dried apricots, cherries, raisins, toasted walnuts, and blue cheese, it was not as good as it sounded due to the salty, lackluster dressing. My salad kicks their salad’s ass. B’s greens also suffered under a over-salted dressing she described as juvenile. Both servings were large enough to share.

For soups we again chose one from “Today”, an irresistible dish called “Hot Crab on Crab Action”, Charleston she-crab soup topped with Alaskan King crab claws. If you are unfamiliar with she-crab soup, it is made with the roe from the female crab (hense she-crab), cream and sherry. The soup is usually rich and creamy but I found this version to be somewhat lighter with an abundance of crab meat, both in the soup and on top. I thought it was very good but B was not impressed.

We also ordered a soup from “Appetizers”, the creamy sweet potato soup, a disappointing puree that B compared to baby food. The smoked bacon, peanuts, and scallions on top did little to salvage it.

B tried the Chesapeake Bay wild striped bass for her entree, while I went with the grilled Cervena venison. Her fish, served with honey roasted turnips, rutabega, escarole, lemon, and dates, hit all the right notes. It was a fantastic dish.

I ordered my venison medium-rare. With black pepper spaetzle, spring Vidalia onion and huckleberry jus, it was a hearty plate. My meat was, unfortunately, on the rare side, and not as tender as one would wish for. A solid Winter dish.

Chef Hall stopped by inquiring about our meal. He’s a big dude. I’m not sure if he knew we were food writers but chances are, he would have visited either way.

B and I rarely skip dessert, this time sharing the pecan pie. My first impression was that it was more crust than filling. A few nibbles of it with the vanilla ice cream on top was more than enough sugar.

I wanted to love it, I wanted the three local pigs to wow us. No doubt, I will try Local Three again, if not only for its owners’ sense of humor and commitment to quality. To quote the menu “you can’t argue with delicious”.

But you can argue with mediocre.

3290 Northside Parkway NW 404-968-2700