Hot Dish Review

My birthday dinner at Woodfire Grill was Thursday night, rescheduled from last week since B was out of town. Sexy Argentinian artist MS and his partner S joined us.

(Sensitive readers beware, this post will be full of cursewords and italics!)

This was my first visit to the restaurant since the interior re-do. We didn’t like it. A place called Woodfire Grill should be warm and cozy.

Our evening got off to a frenetic start as B and I were running late to our already late reservation. Who cares, I looked fabulous in my outfit, entirely from Target! Earrings, necklace, scarf, and dress (OK, it was Anna Sui for Target).

It was my birthday dinner and I wanted a drink! Our server greeted us and explained the menu options available….3 course, 5 course, chef’s choice, vegetarian, pescitarian, with or without wine pairings, or a la carte. TMI. S was allergic to him. He recommended a half bottle of Veuve then ran off. When he finally returned we ordered the champagne to toast my birthday.

Did I mention it was my birthday? Yes, I am the bitch that made a special request for my birthday. I wanted foie gras, damn it! They often have it on the menu at Woodfire, just never when I’m there, so it wasn’t an insane request. It wasn’t like I was asking for filet mignon at McDonald’s.

Also, I was excited to meet Kevin Gillespie. His performance on last season’s Top Chef won him many fans and (I believe) saved the restaurant’s life. I had confirmed with the staff that he would be there, although I knew he was possibly flying out for a special event. He was not there.

But B did confirm they would have foie gras! Fabulous. I didn’t think it was necessary to explain that it should have a sweet accompaniment, like fig and pear compote. Or mascerated berries. Or candied kumquats. Everyone knows that. Everyone! Unfortunately, it was served simply on top of the standard (and might I say inexplicable) grease soaked toast. I’ve never understood why a rich meat like foie gras would be served with greasy toast but it happens more often than not. I would have loved some watercress or frissee, maybe a drizzle of balsamic reduction and a sweet component. I usually toss aside the toast but had nothing else to eat with the foie gras this time (the flavorless smudge of something on the plate was dried so it doesn’t count). On the bright side, it was seared perfectly (although MS prefers his cool in the center).

Quail or duck? I asked our server which had the cripier skin. Neither, they were skinless. What the f*ck, why skin a d*ck? Or grill a quail without skin? Maybe he was trying to deter me from ordering either as it was late and they could have just run out. He recommended the sturgeon to B rather than the quail. I ordered the pork tenderloin. The menu description said it came with roasted root vegetables, Coca-Cola glazed country ham, and sweet potato sauce. This was all true, but the veggies and ham were microscopic. Why mention a dish is served with something if one has to search for it on the plate? The meat was dry dry dry.

B liked her fish. I tried it. No complaints. MS ordered the Maine peekytoe crab salad appetizer as his main. S had it as a starter and it too was microscopic. Big plate, small food. S ordered the black trumpet mushroom risotto as his second course, a really tasty dish. His beef strip loin, however, was the best dish of the trio of entrees at our table. Again, I didn’t see anything on the plate except the meat.

Thankfully, B ordered the brussels sprouts as a side. Roasted with sweet herbs and tossed with a smoked onion vinaigrette. They were amazing! The best in town.

B and I followed our champagne with a glass of red. The boys were having margaritas. We talked about art, we talked about Rio. MS entertained us with his riveting tale of working out on the beach at Ipanema, stumbling upon a tarp that concealed a dead body!

Ah, mortality. Birthday cake. Or, rather, birthday chocolate bread pudding. It should have been orgasmic, like the pork and the foie gras should have been, but again, just didn’t wow me. The best part was the chocolate chip cherry ice cream on top, the scoop no bigger than a walnut. I blew out my candle and made a wish (for more f*cking ice cream!)

I know Kevin Gillespie is kickass. So why am I always disappointed with Woodfire Grill?

1782 Cheshire Bridge Road 404-347-9055

At the close of the Winter Olympics in Canada, what could be more appropriate than dining at Saskatoon, a new restaurant specializing in wild game from the Northwest.

I sorta expected the staff to say “ay?” at the end of every question…”having wild boar tonight, ay?” LG and I arrived hungry for some meat! I was ready to try wild game that is not as common here in the States, like elk and venison (yes honey, that’s Bambi).

Mountain lodge decor complete with antler chandeliers creates a rustic and warm ambiance. We ordered a bottle of full and spicy 2005 Campo Viejo Reserva Rioja to start. Most of their wines come in around $30….very reasonable. Hot bread with three flavored butters eventually arrived.

The original Saskatoon has been open in Greenville, SC for 13 years, and although the founder is Edmund Woo, the owner of this spin-off is Yash Patel. A few Asian influences remain on the meat-centric menu like the buffalo lettuce wraps that LG and I sampled. A selection of julienned veggies like red pepper, cucumber, onion, scallions, and tomato accomany the strips of buffalo, cooked medium, served with two Asian dipping sauces. Not bad.

But I preferred the other starter…..wild boar sausage flatbread. Basically a mini pizza, the flatbread was topped with portabellas and parmesan. I couldn’t tell the sausage was made with boar, but I did like the flavor.

Our server, Dan, was very helpful and brought out a taste of the ostrich. I think it was good, but too much BBQ-ish sauce masked the flavor of the meat. Executive chef Kevin Backus came out to chat and offered to create a mixed grill entree for me so I could taste a variety of game….I wanted something wild! I chose the trio of quail, elk, and kangaroo while LG stuck with the plate as it was offered….duck, quail, and lamb. Venison, rather than quail, was on my plate atop a mound of skin-on mashed potatoes. Then a separate plate with the little bird arrived. I wish the skin had been crispier.

LG and I said a prayer for the animals that died for our extravagant meal as we savored each bite. My favorite was the kangaroo (probably because of the marinade), although it was almost well-done it was very tender. Requested medium-rare, my venison was quite rare which made it chewy. Seems as though the sauces and marinades conceal rather than enhance the meats’ flavor. The menu says the steaks and meats are grilled over a live hickory fire. Really? I just didn’t get that grilled frontier flavor that I craved.

Saskatoon also offers ribeyes, filet mignon, pork tenderloin, and a variety of fish for diners with tamer tastebuds.

The couple at the table next to us were raving about their dessert. It was the creme brulee napoleon. Creme brulee layered with phyllo dough, caramel sauce, and pecans. What made it amazing was the slightly burnt flavor of the phyllo squares, crisped in the oven just before assembly. Staff wine specialist Stephen Pouleris suggested a Hungarian dessert wine called Royal Tokaji with dessert, like a glass of liquid raisins.

360 Pharr Road 404-891-1911

It has been a while since I’ve dined at Serpas, so I was thrilled to get a chance to go with AD, on her last night in Atlanta, accompanied by her injured dude NC.

The restaurant was packed at 8:45 on a Friday night. Modern industrial chic describes the space, with a huge mural of cotton on one wall, exposed brick on another, all cozied up with soft lighting. Chef Serpas can be seen expediting orders and chatting with customers in a non-frenzied manner.

Tuna is not my thing. However, AD loves it. Contrary to all logic, I love it at Serpas too, having tried it at the media dinner. Diced ahi, green apple, and onion are dressed with a chile sesame dressing, the perfect marriage of sweet and spicy, served with huge homemade potato chips, and a big serving of gratuitous cleavage.

A bottle of cava was well-priced so we started off with a sparkling toast to AD’s upcoming worldwide travel adventure. I will be meeting her, perhaps in Chile, so we decided to follow up the cava with a bottle of pinot noir from Cono Sur.

We also agreed on the crispy duck rolls. I’ve had them on every visit and always love them, filled with rich and flavorful pulled duck, each piece resting in a sweet and spicy chili syrup. I wish we could have had the eggplant hushpuppies and Scott’s signature oysters too, but I had to save room for the house salad and entrees, who’s descriptions define comfort food.

Chef Serpas has a knack for sauces and dressings. The Serpas house salad is a perfect example, just simple fresh field greens, candied pecans, and goat cheese, dressed with a blistered grape vinaigrette….a little sweet, a little tangy, just plain awesome!

Although chef Serpas is from Louisiana, he includes a few Asian inspired dishes, like the duck spring rolls, that are extremely successful. I’ve had the jumbo sea scallops served with bok choy on a perfectly executed panang curry.

On this visit the three of us decided to split two entrees. The duck breast, stuffed with Andouille sausage was served with an “open faced vegetable relleno”. I’m still confused about that, but I can tell you it was made with Brussels sprout leaves, chilis, mushrooms, and raisins. All sat upon a slightly sweet and savory sauce that complimented the crispy skinned duck and vegetables.

The short ribs with pappardelle reminded me and AD of the amazing dish we used to get at The Globe (R.I.P), but its presentation was entirely different. The beef was not pulled but served as a chunk atop the large paste squares with a scrumptious sauce with roasted shallots, asparagus, and sunchokes. The meat was so tender it easily fell apart as we dug in with forks, making “yum” sounds as we cleaned both plates.

Bread pudding you say? Hell yeah! I like mine not drenched in sugary sauce so I requested the bourbon cream sauce on the side. Not too sweet….just right!

I just love Serpas. Scott Serpas is a genuinely nice guy and, in my opinion, ranks among the top five chefs in Atlanta (possibly even the best?). There’s no pretense with the food, the chef, or the location. Perhaps it’s his play on sweet and spice that I love so much. Or his masterful sauces and dressings. It certainly lives up to his “True Food” name.

659 Auburn Avenue at Studioplex 404-688-0040

After yet another visit, this time with a semi-rowdy group of friends actually seated in the dining room, I had to bump my neighborhood Tex-Mex fave El Taco and seedy yet surprisingly healthy Tex-Mex fave El Myr to give Abattoir a spot. Neither seriously deserved spots in the Top Ten, but I so love Mexican food, I just wanted it represented. (lame, right?)

We snacked on chicharrones and the lovely, fatty rabbit rillette (photo above). Crispy bread with real sweet butter and a bottle or two of a deep and spicy malbec (only $36!) set the stage for a hearty meal.

This time I tried the duck breast with cabbage and pear slaw. Served sliced thin and medium rare, the side didn’t have enough sweet to adequately compliment the meat. One friend had the tender and tasty short ribs with sweet potatoes. The rest is all a meaty blur, although no one had anything offal. (did I mention my friends are pussies?)

But it was the dessert that really did it for me. The new hazelnut meringue with coffee ice cream and chocolate sauce stole the show, all of us digging in with spoons clanking against the huge bowl….I can only imagine the scene as a bit frightening for on-lookers! It was chewy, creamy, light, and rich all at once. We also ordered the not-so-special chocolate creme cookie with ice milk and the always amazing maple bacon beignets.