Hot Dish Review

Foregoing the standard media blitz, this news comes (unedited) straight from the source:

Dinner Party Atlanta Summer Line-up and News

The hiatus is over – we are gearing back up for the summer and fall.

The DP crew had to take a short break to get our new restaurant concept up and moving. Some of you already know we have signed a lease at 905 Juniper Street in midtown – I began receiving inquisitive emails within an hour of signing the lease! (Who’s the mole!?) We hope to open the Juniper spot in late summer. The rollout will be, in true Dinner Party tradition and style, unique. (If anyone knows how it is going to be executed, dammit, I give up!)

Now, to clear up some confusion… The question has been posed by some folks as to how Dinner Party can open up a restaurant – where the location is obviously disclosed, cuisine/menus will be known, pairings alluded to – when the whole Dinner Party concept and intrigue is centered around the element of surprise. (The question is appropriate. Our logic may seem convoluted, but there is sound reasoning and sense here! Promise.)

Ultimately, Dinner Party was started as a test kitchen/restaurant of sorts. We knew long before we began this project that our aim was to open a restaurant, which is a tricky proposition these days. The idea was conceived at 3am in the morning over a post-shift cocktail at TOP FLR. We wanted to put together a monthly food, wine & spirits “jam session” in the most avant garde locations possible. Those of you who have attended a dinner party didn’t know you were part of a culinary clinical trial. As it turns out – the medicine works.

We have garnered an invaluable wealth of knowledge over the last two years executing these dinners. Chef Devereux has created some amazing menus working with all sorts of ingredients and techniques. Our servers, cocktail director and sommelier have enjoyed the very rare opportunity to elevate their skills in very challenging circumstances (e.g., an airplane hangar, empty warehouse, Piedmont Park, and most recently, center court at the GA Tech Basketball coliseum). Believe me, more than once they have all looked at me with expressions that could only be interpreted as, “Are you kidding me???” But we always pulled it off…and we have all enjoyed seeing your reactions and hearing your genuine praise for the food, service and the experience. (Ok, ok…but where is the correlation??)

The menu, atmosphere, philosophy and ethic of our new venture will incorporate many things we have learned thus far from the Dinner Party “experiment,” but, no; the restaurant will not be called Dinner Party. It will be unique unto itself to be sure, but there will most definitely be a splash of Dinner Party character in the air, and it will be brought to you by the same folks…

Even with the addition of the new spot, Dinner Party, and the dinner parties we have been throwing for the last 2 years, will continue – as long as Chef Devereux, Darren and I are working together in the city. They are far, far too much fun to ever let them go by the wayside.

Dinner Party events are scheduled for June, July, August & September. Those of you on the waiting list will be emailed with dates before they are posted on the site…

Hoping to see y’all soon.

CHEERS,

Patrick

The Dinner Party boys, Patrick La Bouff and Darren Carr, managing partner of Sound Table and Top Flr, have been kind enough to give Hot Dish readers a chance to win two seats ($200 value!) at their upcoming Kerala Indian dinner,presented in conjunction with Spice Route Supper Club, this Friday the 18th!

Sounds easy, right? Not so fast! First you have to correctly answer this trivia question: What is the literacy rate in Kerala, India?

Respond via email by 10pm tonight to: labouff.pj@gmail.com for your chance to win. All correct answers will be entered in the drawing with winner announced via email at midnight on Thursday February 17th!

Good luck!

Dinner Party Atlanta did it again, hosting a dinner for nearly 40 guests at the Atlanta Ballet’s new space on Marietta Boulevard. BB and I arrived just as DC was lighting candles, placing them strategically along the mirrored wall of a rehearsal studio.

Dramatic lighting set the stage for an eventful evening, but there was plenty of drama on our way to the venue. BB and his driver, Warren, picked me up after a frenzied day at work. After a few moments enroute I realized the ribbon ties on my dress were loose. Numerous attempts to tighten it produced the opposite result, finally proving futile as the ribbon was broken. I re-laced it in the dark and secured it at the shoulder by turning my head nearly backwards, Linda Blair style. Disaster averted!

I breathed a sigh of relief, rummaging through my bag for my powder compact. It wasn’t there. Sonofabitch. Pulling into the venue’s parking lot, Warren dropped us off and sprang into action, memorizing the brand and color of powder I needed, then delivering it tout de suite.

Greeted with a deceptively light rum cocktail, KC showed us the space. One long table ran the length of the dark room, set with a black tablecloth, white napkins, and lots of glasses sparkling in the candlelight. Across the hall a group of little girls danced their hearts out.

In a perfectly choreographed dance of food and wine, the meal began with a shot of bright yellow pepper soup. Suspended by a spear of asparagus above the liquid was a crispy crab beignet. A glass of Schloss Gobelsburg Brut Reserve from Austria started the wine service, expertly chosen by sommelier John Dirga.

The second course was a tuna-less Nicoise salad constructed of haricots verts, fingerling potatoes confit, organic lettuces, and a tiny hard boiled quail egg, the salad paired nicely with a crisp white from France.

Third, we were served a dish of chilled pickled Georgia shrimp topped with ribbons of cucumber and daikon radish. There was a drizzle of egglant-miso puree beneath the shrimp and a couple of cubes of watermelon, making it seem more like a Summer dish. As a cucumber hater I quickly removed the offensive bits and proceed to enjoy the huge shrimp and the garlic croustini that was served alongside. Some folks do not care for sweet wines, but I loved the German spatlese riesling paired with this course. Blame it on my heritage!

Chef Shane Devereux doesn’t produce generous servings, but rather concise compositions, each component playing its roll providing texture, color, flavor. The main course on October 29th was a perfect example. Venison loin was first marinated in black mission fig puree and sherry vinegar, then cooked to a deep scarlet rare. The result was exceedingly tender meat, sliced into thin medallions and placed on a brightly hued carrot puree, accented with crispy chanterelle mushrooms (OK, I thought it was onions but the menu said mushrooms) and the odd addition of crunchy granola. A dish fit for Fall and the only course that merited a red wine, a dry blend from France.

Dessert was a rustic seckle pear tart accompanied by a dollop of salted creme, a fantastic contrast. A dessert white from Portugal finished the show.

Not only did we enjoy an amazing meal prepared by chef Shane Devereux, we were all part of the culinary rat pack’s pilot for a new reality series on NBC. Filming was so discrete that diners may have been unaware that it was taking place.

Afterwards, we all headed to The Sound Table where Dam Funk tore it up! I danced off the entire meal and then some.

A RE-RUN ON THE EVE OF THE PIEDMONT PARK DINNER PARTY! Of course I’m attending….how could I not?

Exclusive, invitation only dinner parties held in secret locations, announced at the last minute, with a secret menu revealed once guests are seated. Sounds tantalizing, no?

The speakeasy of supper clubs, Dinner Party Atlanta is a hot ticket among foodies. The brainchild of Darren Carr and Patrick La Bouff of Top Flr, it’s a brilliant concept combining the element of surprise with culinary genius. Be prepared for anything as chef Shane Devereux, also of Top Flr, presents five courses, each with stunning precision and evolved flavors.

B and I had the dinner and the party last night! Held in the space on Edgewood that will soon house Darren’s and Jeff Myers’ new restaurant, Darren was reluctant to spill the beans about this project, although word is it is scheduled to open in March.

Upon arrival, Darren was on hand to greet guests and direct them upstairs where the future restaurant’s kitchen and dining room are located. Red brick walls were lined with gorgeous black and white photography by Craig Bromley. A long communal table set for twenty diners promised an evening of lively conversation and making new friends, although it was cool to see an old friend, OB, who happened to be in attendance as well. A sexy crowd, sexy lighting, and sexy staff, set the stage for some sexy food!

Each of us sipped a special rum cocktail shaken up by Paul, called The Hesitation, as we mingled. Once seated, the real excitement was underway. Sommelier Valerie Masten poured a semi-sweet riesling that paired perfectly with our first course of foie gras torchon with toasted brioche, apple miso butter and a tiny clump of watercress.

Ya know, I prefer my foie gras seared. The process of making foie gras torchon is a rigorous one which Devereux described in detail….TMI dude! Deveining goose liver is not an enviable task, but the result was a smooth and fatty disc. The sweet accompaniment and bread to cut the richness made for a classic starter.

Seated next to JR, a man with a palate that can detect a single molecule of an ingredient, made for an engaging discussion of each course, the second of which was a chilled leek and marcona almond soup, pureed with cream and garnished with a salad of lobster, chopped black grapes, almonds and a drizzle of pumpkin seed oil. It rocked, but B and I didn’t love the white Italian wine served with it.

Squab is a fancy word for pigeon. Not the NYC “flying rat” variety but a domesticated version whose meat is reminiscent of duck. This was the protein in our third course, the breast pan seared medium rare and a leg confit served atop fingerling potatoes and diced pork belly which added a touch of smokiness to the dish….delish. Valerie chose a Spanish red, Petalos 2007, which was my favorite wine of the evening.

Among chef Devereux’s technically difficult preparations was the sous vide saddle of rabbit, our fourth course. It’s like they read our minds (or my blog)….B and I love bunnies! But I had never tried it cooked sous vide, a method of slow cooking any meat in a vacuum sealed bag under water at a constant low temperature. Turnip puree with a touch of Greek yogurt provided a hint of bitterness against the surprise addition of golden raisins. Braised artichoke gave the dish an extra punch, a perfect study in contrast of texture and flavor. A dry Italian red worked well with it.

Dessert was far better than its description. A thin disc of almond cake was topped with pear mousse, then a soft mascarpone cheesecake spiced with cinnamon and allspice. The best fucking thing was the dried fig and pear compote alongside it. I ate mine and half of B’s too. Valerie chose an awesome auslese riesling to sip with the sweets.

It was a stellar experience and worth every dollar. Naturally, we headed to Top Flr for one last drink. My favorite anglianico was no longer offered by the glass so I chose Easton zin, an old standby. I don’t remember much after that, but my hair smelled of cigarettes this morning.

With a wait list of 700, they will be doing a large scale event on May 1st in Piedmont Park to seat 200 guests.

Dinner Party Atlanta is a kickass experience. I wouldn’t expect anything less from the guys at Top Flr!

I’ve been waiting a long time to post this. If you order a martini, most often you receive a martini glass full to the brim. WRONG! Worse yet, some pussies order “vodka martinis”. OK, so there is no such thing. That would be a vodka drink served in a martini glass.

By definition, a martini is gin with vermouth. I order mine with Bombay Sapphire, dry, straight up, with 3 olives. “Dry” means the vermouth is shaken with the ice, then thrown out. The essence of the vermouth remains to be shaken with the gin. If you order a vodka martini just call it what it is. A cosmopolitan perhaps?

When the guys from Top Flr and Dinner Party Atlanta suggested meeting at The Highland Tap, I was thrilled. Back in the day, me and my roommate LR (now LL) used to spend entire afternoons in the back corner booth, sipping martinis and chain smoking.

So, during the “blizzard” last Friday, I enjoyed the singular treat of a perfectly made martini.

The meeting was about the link between Dinner Party Atlanta (Darren Carr & Patrick LaBouff), Top Flr (Darren Carr & Jeff Myers), and the third venture, the secret yet-to-be-disclosed restaurant/music driven bar on Edgewood (Darren Carr, Jeff Myers, & Karl Injex) creating a culinary trifecta. Chef Shane Devereux is the glue between all three.

Back to martinis….the only place in Atlanta that serves a martini correctly is The Highland Tap. A martini is meant to be sipped slowly. To keep it cold, a small amount of the shaken drink is poured into a martini glass. The remainder is poured into a sidecar…..a tiny carafe that is kept cold in ice water on the side. This is the proper method of serving a martini. Any other method is incorrect, and unfortunately, standard.

If you can’t do it right, don’t do it! Here’s a Knuckle Sandwich for all of the bars and restaurants that force their bartenders to serve half-ass martinis….shame on you.