Hot Dish Review

While shopping for vitamins at Return to Eden, I decided to take a stroll through the food aisles. I used to do quite a bit of shopping at health food stores, like the original Nuts ‘n’ Berries when I was in college, and later Sevanandah in L5P. As the years passed, convenience and the lack of time have forced me to become more familiar with Kroger and Publix for groceries.

I had planned to purchase a few staples and something easy for dinner at the Publix next door, but my plans were quickly derailed when I saw the pints of Honeysuckle Gelato in the freezer at Return to Eden. I grabbed an organic frozen entree and a pint of honey fig flavored gelato and headed to the register.

At $7.79 for a pint, I paused momentarily wondering if it would be worth it, however once at the register, I encountered two employees that applauded my choice, but warned me that the gelato was so good the pint would only last for one sitting.

Inspecting the label, I noticed the short list of all natural, locally sourced ingredients, and also noticed one glaring omission….no nutrition information such as carbs, fat, protein, and most importantly, calories. Gelato is made with milk instead of heavy cream so it is generally lighter than ice cream, but it would be nice to have the specifics. Less info, less guilt? Sure, sometimes ignorance is bliss.

Honeysuckle Gelato has received great press on their line of Southern inspired gelato flavors like key lime pie and bourbon pecan. Their truck can be seen at foodie events all over town and pints can be purchased at upscale purveyors like Lucy’s in Buckhead.

For the record, it was challenging, but my pint of honey fig gelato lasted for two servings….and it was worth every single cent.

They are opening a restaurant! Go to Kickstarter to help them raise the funds for their new venture.
Quite some time ago, I signed up for email alerts from PushStart Kitchen. Chef Zach Meloy and his wife Cristina create intimate dinner parties in a rustic space at The Goat Farm two or three evenings a week. Each menu is unique, featuring veggies one week, Latin flavors the next, or a mad combo of both.

The menu sent out last week was particularly intriguing, with words like bacon and coffee catching my attention. I responded, albeit not right away, only to find out the dinner for Sunday was fully booked. However, a few days later I received a last minute email from Cristina saying there had been a cancellation. Were we still interested? Indeed!

LC joined me on our first visit to the art complex on the West side known as The Goat Farm. Upon arrival, we were met in the parking lot and escorted to the space upstairs where Zach was preparing an appetizer of smoked ham on a stick, dotted with BBQ sauce, and mixing some sweet yet deceptively strong rum cocktails with black tea and ginger.

We mingled with our fellow diners to discover most of them had attended PushStart several times, each one raving about the intimate dining experience and the amazing food. After a couple of cocktails, we were seated at the 100 year old table, a thickly varnished repurposed door, set for sixteen guests.

Inspired by his cravings when hungover, chef Meloy started us off with chewy yet crispy hunter’s bacon lardon. It was paired with neat squares of dense and creamy bread pudding, arugula, and slices of pickled Asian pear, all resting on a generous drizzle of smoked maple syrup. Manchego cheese had been made into a foam which was piped onto each plate. Each component was presented somewhat individually, representing a variety of textures and flavors. An oaky chardonnay was a tricky pairing (perhaps only because I dislike chardonnay). The chatter at the table suddenly ceased as we all became mesmerized by our perfectly balanced plates.

Meloy’s main course was a flank steak served with a soft cooked egg made in his countertop sous vide machine. Introducing familiar Latin flavors, a heavy smudge of black bean puree decorated the plate, along with pickled tomatillo halves and small orbs of crispy masa. He paced around the table as we broke our eggs, anxious to confirm that the yolks remained soft. Success! The tartness of the pickled tomatillos and the earthy corn flavor of the masa once again showed the chef’s ability to compose a perfectly balanced plate. A spicy, earthy cab was an excellent pairing.

Dessert was served in large white bowls, two doughnuts sprinkled with sugar mixed with a bit of ancho chili powder for a surprising but pleasant kick. A mound of malted milk balls were beneath them, all atop a drizzle of bourbon gel. They would have been excellent just like that, but the chef’s assistant came around with a pitcher of cold coffee custard that she elegantly poured into each bowl, completing the dish. Ridiculously awesome. How about some champagne with that? Yes, please.

The finale was a strong after dinner cordial and a dish of chewy candies made by Cristina, who was busy caring for their new baby.

Naturally, discussion at the table centered around food, and as a food writer, my fellow diners were eager to know how I rated this meal. To be honest, it was exquisite, definitely in my top ten meals of all time. And for a mere $60 suggested donation per diner, a bargain as well.

Like Dinner Party Atlanta which morphed into a full-blown restaurant, The Lawrence, and Spice Route that became the brick-and-mortar Cardamom Hill, the Meloys are on the hunt for a space, hoping to turn PushStart Kitchen into the restaurant of their dreams. But for now, it’s one dinner at a time.

The Goat Farm is located at 1200 Foster Street NW

The first time I ate homemade meringues was during a holiday dinner at LC’s parents’ place. I’ve always considered meringue a pie topping, not a dessert on its own, however, his Mom made meringue shells, then filled them with mixed berries. Crunchy yet chewy, they were light as air…and one of LC’s favorite sweet treats.

Recently, I promised myself to cook more at home so I asked his Mom for the recipe. It’s deceptively simple, but the success depends on technique.

Here’s her recipe:

2 egg whites, at room temperature
2/3 C. sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
pinch of salt
1/4 tsp. cream of tartar

Beat all ingredients except sugar in a glass bowl with electric mixer, starting on low speed and increasing to high until stiff. Gradually add the sugar and continue mixing until incorporated.

Drop by spoonfuls onto cookie sheet lined with aluminum foil sprayed with cooking spray. Either preheat the oven to 400 degrees and turn it off before putting meringues in for 3 hours, OR preheat oven to 200 degrees and cook meringues for 1 hour.

Note: I was short on time so I used the second cooking method. My meringue shells got a little dark and extra crunchy in the center where they were thin, while the thicker round meringues came out chewier.

I filled the shells with sugar-marinated strawberries and blueberries, then topped them with whipped cream. Surprise….homemade meringues! LC loved them.

Sounds steamy, no? It was a cold and rainy Saturday and my neighbor LG and I had a hot date with an Italian….restaurant, that is. La Tavola is a stone’s throw from our place, but I had never visited until last weekend. Despite its longstanding reputation as Virginia Highlands’ best trattoria, my general disdain for Italian food has kept it at the bottom of my “to eat” list.

However, the recent onslaught of Northern Italian restaurants opening in Atlanta and the inevitable media dinners that followed have softened my view of this often bastardized cuisine. LG and I arrived for our reservation but didn’t make it past the front door, being seated at a two-top by the window in front. The narrow space is dimly lit and packs in tables New York style, making conversation with neighbors inevitable.

The first order of business was selecting wine, white for LG and red for me. The well-edited wine list was not mostly Italian as expected, but included a variety of wines from around the world. I asked our server to select a wine for me based upon my preference of a full-bodied peppery red. He chose an Argentinian malbec that fit the bill for $10 a glass. LG followed suit and was pleased with his selection as well.

We requested bread service and I was glad to see it served with butter and not the ubiquitous bowl of olive oil for dipping. However, the bread’s crust was rather charred. Prior to our visit I checked out the menu online, excited to try their duck breast with Brussels sprouts. Alas, it was the only entree that was missing, and my favorite vegetable was nowhere to be found either. So, I went with plan B, ordering the pork cheek appetizer and the smaller portion of the squid ink linguine with calamari.

LG tried the beet and farro salad to start followed by the Italian classic veal saltimbocca. Check out the size of that cutlet! Paired with roasted fingerlings, prosciutto, frisee, and sage, the dish was the perfect antidote for this unseasonably Wintery weather. Another glass of wine warmed us up further.

Artfully presented, the pork cheek was fork-tender, accented with a semi-sweet pancetta marmalade. This dish represents why my attitude toward Italian food is changing….no marinara here, just straightforward deliciousness.

My pasta was a composition in black and white….linguine colored black by squid ink topped with white rings of squid. Lightly dressed with Thai basil pesto and Calabrian chilies, I twirled it, slurped it, and licked the plate clean.

An apricot and bucheron tart was an interesting combination of sweet and savory, however I found the texture of the cheese somewhat off-putting in contrast to the soft fruit. I was hoping for a more rustic crust rather than its standard pie shell, but it was devoured nonetheless.

LG and I enjoyed our date with this hot Italian. Perhaps next time the weather will be hot too so we can check out the patio in the back.

992 Virginia Avenue NE 404-873-5430

Anticipation. Sure, it’s supposed to make whatever you’re waiting for even better when you finally get it, or fuel your inevitable disappointment, as the case may be. I didn’t intend to wait this long to dine at Cardamom Hill, Chef Asha Gomez’ brick and mortar restaurant modeled after her exclusive Spice Route Supper Club, especially considering the hype surrounding her Kerala Indian cuisine, including a national write-up in a recent issue of Food and Wine Magazine.

LC and I arrived two days late for our Valentine’s Day dinner seeing as he was deathly ill on the day itself. The door of the small space in a strip shopping center opens by the restaurant’s bar while the main dining room is divided by a central partition. Decor is rather plain but I was there for the food, super-excited to taste what everyone was talking about. We started off with drinks, a specialty cocktail for him, a glass of red wine for me.

Although it is the dish I have been waiting to try since I first read Cardamom Hill’s menu, I was talked out of ordering the duck and plantain croquettes by LC for practical reasons. He was right. I was ordering the duck entree and he wasn’t very hungry, so we would order three other appetizers instead and share the duck.

Among the three small plates we ordered was my old favorite, pork vindaloo. Easily the spiciest of the Indian sauces, one usually finds it dumbed down for us Americans. However, Gomez gives us an authentic fiery version and serves it with a rice-coconut crepe. Although the menu says the meat is a shoulder cut, I could have sworn it was pork belly. Cubes of fat mingled with the tender meat, surprising me with their unappetizing texture. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the deep, spicy flavor.

LC chose the curry chicken pastries, two turnovers filled with fragrant minced curried chicken then baked crisp. Spiced with cumin, corriander, and curry powder, they were satisfying but not particularly noteworthy. We agreed on a third dish, the short rib with sweet potato, mainly because I love sweet potatoes.

Modernizing the idea of the traditional thali, Gomez composes some dishes on small square white plates set on long wooden boards, each displaying a separate ingredient. This is how the short rib was presented, spiced pulled rib meat in one dish, two (yes, only two) slices of cardamom scented sweet potato in the center, and arugula with a punchy citrus vinaigrette in the third dish, providing a wonderful acid contrast to the sweet and spicy flavors.

I was horrified when my crispy duck leg arrived, completely covered in the clove pepper sauce mentioned on the menu. Even worse was that the sauce was room temperature. I wonder if the skin of the duck was crispy before it was drowned in the sauce…it almost made me cry. Another issue was my request to substitute the confit potatoes with sweet potatoes, to which I was told they couldn’t do it. I can’t imagine why not since the potatoes were plated separately and could have easily been switched. A fruit chutney heavy on ginger paired well with the duck which was actually delicious after I got past the sauce.

Despite feeling a little better than on Valentine’s Day, LC didn’t have enough energy for dessert, so I ordered the mango bread pudding to go. It was beautifully presented in a black container and devoured immediately when we got home. Dense and not too sweet, the individually baked pudding was drizzled with a little simple syrup and served with fresh fruit and a mango dipping sauce.

I enjoyed most of the dishes at Cardamom Hill but left wondering what all the hoopla was about. Should we have tried the Kerala fried chicken that is a specialty there? I missed the traditional trappings of Indian food like naan with raita, authentic or not.

1700 Northside Drive 404-549-7012

Jay Swift’s eponymous restaurant, located in a renovated factory on an otherwise barren stretch of North Avenue, has earned its reputation as one of Atlanta’s best. Well-crafted dishes made with locally sourced ingredients showcase his attention to detail and define his kitchen prowess.

A recent visit with another couple proved, once again, that Swift has a winning formula. It was a blustery Winter’s evening so I was thrilled that the valet is located at the bottom of the stairs leading to the restaurant’s door. Shockingly, TH and her man D were already seated awaiting our arrival.

We joined them and ordered some drinks, a tequila cocktail for him and a glass of prosecco for me. LC took charge and decided we would share three appetizers, including the seared pork belly. I pushed for the octopus despite some looks of concern, and the nearly famous Brussels sprouts which everyone was excited to try.

Three oblong plates arrived and four forks went to work, first a taste of tender octopus, then a bite of Brussels sprouts. A zippy citrus note challenged the smokiness of the wood-grilled Spanish octopus, accompanied by charred pearl onions and fresh arugula on a puree of salsify with red wine. The menu specifies how each ingredient is prepared, making it sound complicated, however, the result is simple…and simply delicious.

Swift’s Brussels sprouts, featured on a recent episode of Atlanta Eats, are roasted and served with sliced North Georgia apples, then dotted with creme fraiche and sprinkled with toasted pistachios, the bitterness of the vegetable cut by a drizzle of sweet apple cider reduction. Of course, that’s how everybody makes them, right? Not even a leaf of a sprout remained.

Chunks of pork belly, the cut of pork from which bacon is made, were interestingly paired with miniature sweet potato muffins….an homage to Southern ingredients. Shaved watermelon radish added color and crunch.

Our friends didn’t come hungry so they were happy with only appetizers. Although I usually decide on a shared entree, LC had zeroed in on the Wagyu flank steak with patatas bravas, charred scallions, sauteed greens, and black garlic jus. As if we didn’t have enough, we ordered an additional side of Brussels sprouts (as opposed to the appetizer version described above), a generous bowl drizzled with creme fraiche. Perfectly cooked to medium, the steak was awesome but nevertheless, I would have chosen the duck breast.

I rarely skip dessert and this occassion was no exception. Unable to decide on one, LC was convinced our companions would help us eat them so we ordered two, the sticky toffee pudding and pear crostada. Flavored with butterscotch, the dense pudding was traditional English comfort food.

My preference, however, was the rustic crostada, simply made by wrapping the fruit with pastry crust and baking. Both desserts were finished with a generous scoop of homemade vanilla bean ice cream.

Service was seamless and our meal was the epitome of modern comfort food. If you are planning a visit, make sure to go while the Brussels sprouts are in season!

621 North Avenue NE 678-904-0160

I’m going to have to eat my words. Maybe with some pesto. I always tell people I hate Italian food, when the fact is, I really only hate what most Americans consider to be Italian food, like spaghetti with meatballs and marinara.

A recent assignment took me to Davio’s, a relatively new Northern Italian restaurant at Phipp’s Plaza. Like all Italian restaurants, there are pastas, but none of them with marinara. Instead of pizzas you’ll find Tuscan white bean and hand-rolled gnocchi with basil truffle oil.

This is the fourth Davio’s location in the U.S., the first opening in Boston in 1985. The company has grown slowly, taking its time to perfect the concept before branching out to different markets. White tablecloths, upholstered seating, and fat columns give the space a traditional fine dining feel. I ordered a bellini followed by an unusual selection of an off-dry riesling. Both were fantastic.

The menu reads like a study in decadence, from seared foie gras to lobster risotto, until you get to the section titled Marchi. This section is a brief list of Davio’s trademark Spring rolls which come in four flavors that mimic other dishes, for instance the Philly Cheese Steak Spring Roll. They even sell them wholesale to supermarkets. I don’t get it. It’s as out of place as pizza at a sushi bar. But we were obligated to try them, so we ordered the sampler. As expected, LC loved the crispy fried rolls, especially the Buffalo Chicken. I was not impressed.

In addition to the Spring rolls we ordered the steamed mussels to share. The aromatic broth, flavored with ginger, lemongrass and fresh basil had a little kick, but I found the shellfish to be on the small side. LC devoured them as I focused on my foie gras. Seared and paired with roasted Georgia peaches, I initially thought the kitchen had plated an enormous serving of foie gras with no peach because the port glaze made everything look the same. Even our server thought they had made a mistake and whisked the dish away for repair. Meanwhile, I requested some undressed field greens on the side, my favorite way to cut the richness of foie gras. Our server returned, explaining the peach was hidden beneath two lovely slices of the goose liver. I proceeded to cut a piece of each and brushed a few leaves of baby romaine through the port glaze. Heavenly.

That was just the appetizers. The next dish was ravioli stuffed with Maine lobster in a rich basil cream sauce. Pastas come in two sizes so we ordered the small bowl and treated it as a side to accompany an 8 oz. center cut filet mignon. I couldn’t pass up the pan roasted Brussels sprouts while LC had a hankerin’ for the green beans with crispy pancetta.

Our steak was kitchen split, each half (that looked to be around 6 oz. each rather than 4 oz.) individually seared to a perfect medium. Served with caramelized onions and two housemade sauces, horseradish cream and a citrus herb sauce called prezzemolata, it was the best steak both of us had eaten in years, perhaps ever! Each bite melted in our mouths, after which we exclaimed “Oh my God, this is amazing!” It was so incredibly delicious, no sauce was required, but the prezzemolata was terrific so I couldn’t resist dipping a few bites in. We savored every morsel.

Brussels sprouts were roasted until tender and tasty. Lots of porky pancetta punctuated the skinny, whole green beans. Despite its richness, we polished off the lobster ravioli and had the nerve to order dessert.

I was disappointed to discover this Italian restaurant did not serve gelato, so we opted for what seemed to be the lightest, a strawberry parfait with vanilla ice milk and lemon pound cake croutons. A textural delight, it would have been better without the hint of lemon, and with a dollop of whipped cream.

But why stop there? Our server, who’s timing was impeccable, suggested we take home a second dessert, the traditional Italian tiramisu. Sadly, it didn’t even make it to the refrigerator.

Certainly not inexpensive, Davio’s is the perfect choice for a special occassion or if your pockets are particularly deep. Do I like Italian food, you ask? If it’s Davio’s, I love it.

3500 Peachtree Road 404-844-4810

When the 2.2 mile drive to 4th & Swift was deemed too far by LC, we chose a restaurant even closer to my place, Murphy’s, a veteran of Atlanta’s dining scene yet practically a stranger to me. In fact, my only memory of eating there was one unimpressive brunch. There were, however, multiple occassions that I stopped by the wine shop, back when I could afford to invest in a really good bottle.

It was around 8:30pm on a Friday and we didn’t have a reservation. The wait would be about 45 minutes, so we hovered near the bar hoping for two seats to open up, which happened almost immediately. But the bar staff of two was in the weeds, responsible for making cocktails for the entire restaurant as well as for those of us at the bar.

Noting our brief window of opportunity, I ordered both a half glass of prosecco and another of syrah to follow. LC ordered a tasty cocktail made with grapefruit and tequila. Plus, we had decided to try a cup of chicken tortilla soup and the three cheese flatbread.

When the cup of soup arrived, I was surprised that it had a creamy tomato base. Large squares of fried tortilla provided an awesome crunch factor paired with tender chunks of chicken and creamy slices of avocado. Fresh cilantro added the finishing touch to the zesty soup.

The crispy flatbread was the size of a small pizza. Beneath the blanket of dressed arugula, sweet mission figs, salty prosciutto, and sweet caramelized onions met with melted parmasan and romano (not sure what the third cheese was). We thoroughly enjoyed it.

The bar area suddenly cleared and we continued with dinner in a more tranquil setting, ordering the shrimp and grits entree with a side of local green beans. There was no mention of tomato in the description of the shrimp and grits, but when it arrived, the grits were encircled by what turned out to be a slightly spicy salsa. I really dislike tomato with seafood of any kind, so I would have preferred it without the salsa, but LC enjoyed it. The plump shrimps were accented by thin slices of andouille sausage, and an unnecessary poached egg. Green beans were oily and somewhat undercooked.

There is a dessert counter next to the hostess stand with a chalk board listing Murphy’s sweet offerings. I had already decided to have the apple bread pudding before we even discussed eating anything savory. I saved room for it and another half glass of Bell syrah.

Served in a tiny ramekin, cubes of apple bread with crusty edges emerged from the creamy pudding studded with raisins. A scoop of pistachio ice cream sat upon a bed of crunchy graham cracker crumbs, providing a array of textures and temperatures. Loved it!

On our way out we noticed a cookie jar that operates on the honor system, so we took a couple and left some cash, enjoying the chewy cookies as we strolled to the car. Murphy’s is a great neighborhood spot with a warm and inviting atmosphere, sure to continue to dominate the brunch scene.

997 Virginia Avenue NE 404-872-0909

Lately I’ve found myself eating lots of Italian food, ironically not among my favorite cuisines. Meals at Davio’s and LPC, however, are slowly changing my Americanized-spaghetti-and-meatballs view of what Italian cooking is….or should be.

STG Trattoria is Brian Lewis’ newish spot, named with the initials of his three sons. Hidden away right in the middle of Buckhead, it’s miles from his other restaurant, Bocado on the Westside. Having only tried brunch there, an evening visit was in order.

The vaulted entryway lined with bottles of wine is just as impressive at night, the soft lighting adding romance to the modern industrial space. Our group of five arrived for our reservation, eager for libations and an appetizer or two. Heather seated us at the communal table by the open kitchen where I could watch chef Josh Hopkins, transplanted from Abattoir, ready each plate for service.

We were given a tablet containing the wine list with click-on descriptions of each….ingenious if you have hours to contemplate your choice, but we found navigating the computerized list between five of us to be frustrating. Their Italian-style Amaro apertifs have made a splash in Atlanta’s evolving cocktail scene, but the guys went with classic martinis while us chicks chose wines by the glass.

We started with the roasted shrimp and calamari served over soft polenta and dressed with squid ink vinaigrette. The dish wouldn’t win a beauty contest, but might win a blind taste test. A starter of roasted quail that I was intent on ordering unfortunately changed its accompaniment from figs to cannellini beans, quickly removing it from my “to eat” list.

An order of bruschetta was an unusual combination of Fall’s quintessential squash, the butternut, crispy prosciutto, fontina, and arugula on three large pieces of toast. Everyone loved it. Realizing that the portions were normal rather than super-sized, we chose a third starter, the roasted duck breast. Served in the mini cast-iron skillet in which it was roasted, the duck was finished with preserved chanterelles and celery leaf….a comforting, earthy dish.

We decided to share two pizzas, one topped with speck, smoked grana, cacio di roma, castelvetrano (now that’s a mouthful) olives, tomato sugo, and arugula, the other with roasted king trumpet, beech, and oyster mushrooms, pancetta, fontina, and rosemary. Both were on wafer thin crusts, nicely charred in the oven, and scantily clad with the aforementioned toppings. There is no “extra cheese” or “quadrupel meat” in Italy. My only concern was the toppings separated quite easily from the crust, leaving bare spots.

One in our group was Italian, so it was interesting to get his impressions of the meal’s authenticity. He ordered a pasta dish, the braised lamb ragu with ricotta and oregano over tagliatelle, for everyone to try. Personally, pasta with marinara has no appeal whatsoever, but he said the flavor was good, although he would have preferred bigger pieces of meat. Everyone agreed the texture of the pasta was perfectly al dente’.

Most of us were on round two of drinks when the pizzas were polished off. But we still had room for something sweet! Of the three desserts offered, we chose two: a panna cotta trio and a chocolate budino.

Having eaten a luscious budino at LPC the week before, I described it to my dining companions as a cross between cake and pudding, gooey and warm in the center. Chef Hopkins’ version is more dense, much like a traditional English pudding. It was served chilled and topped with strawberries.

The panne cotta were in three flavors, honey with preserved lemon, vanilla with blueberry compote, and cappuccino. Naturally I assumed my favorite would be the latter, but surprisingly I fell for the honey in spite of the lemon. In fact, it was the chewy, sugar-coated texture of the lemon peels that won me over.

Leave your expectations of garlic bread and mounds of fettucine alfredo at home. Lewis’ vision of an authentic trattoria is realized at STG. Simple and surprisingly light.

102 West Paces Ferry Road 404-844-2879

It’s really awesome to find locally made treats, particularly when the company is owned by an old friend. Nona Rosa’s is just such an operation, established by Mark Snyder in 2010 to honor the tradition of his Italian grandmother’s holiday pizzelles.

When Snyder got married a few years ago, the only gift he wanted was a pizzelle iron. He got his wish and soon began making the crispy waffle-like cookies, selling them to local artisan markets.

Pizzelles are perfect for serving with coffee or ice cream. They are available in a variety of flavors, like lemon, and traditional vanilla anise. In addition, Snyder makes seasonal flavors like pumpkin, which I had the pleasure of sampling recently. He also gave me some chewy macaroons which I shared with my Dad….he loves coconut.

Look for them at Savi Urban Market, Bella Cucina, and at local farmer’s markets!