Hot Dish Review

A holiday rerun for your enjoyment (or disappointment, whatever the case may be):
Coming off a six year media love-fest, the guys at Muss & Turner’s, Todd Mussman and Ryan Turner, expanded to Joel’s former space, calling it Local Three. The third partner is chef Chris Hall, a self-taught cook and Atlanta native.

First, I must tell you the directions on their website are completely confusing. I was pretty sure I knew how to get there off I-75, remembering my two visits to Joel years ago. But admittedly, I have a condition I call “direction dyslexia”, so I can’t trust my instincts where directions are concerned. B was meeting me there and helped me get to the parking garage, along with a security officer. Once at the right building, we still had a hard time finding the restaurant. It was a little frustrating.

All the frustration melted away as soon as we walked into the warm and inviting space. There was no hint of its former stuffy self. Taupe and deep purple walls are a soothing backdrop to the rustic wood furnishings, a trio of pig paintings, a velvet Elvis, and soft, flattering lighting. It is gorgeous.

The trio’s sense of humor is immediately evident, not only in the kitschy decor but in the hilarious menu descriptions, like the “chicken liver mousse a.k.a. meat butter”. I love it that they don’t take themselves, or the food, too seriously.

Like at M & T’s, these boys use as much locally sourced produce and meat as possible. From the design of the space to the menu, it’s as if Abattoir and Miller Union had a precocious child. You will notice that every price on the drink menu ends in a “3″.

B and I were excited about our dining experience, having heard only good things about Local Three. We wanted to start off with a glass of red wine, both of us choosing the Guenoc Victorian Claret, described as “a Big One”…..no surprise there!

On to appetizers, we tried a couple of cheeses and two selections of charcuterie because they were made in-house by Mussman and listed under the heading “Notorious P.I.G.”. Gotta love it. Served with pear compote, honey, and crisp flatbread, I liked the presentation, and it was just perfect with the wine.

With the current battle of the Brussels sprouts in full swing, we ordered their crispy Brussels, listed under “snacks”. Stay tuned for a separate post on those.

B became fixated by the menu’s section called “Today” featuring items that are limited in quantity. In particular, she had her heart set on the salad of Hammock Hollow Farms baby Spring lettuce, radish, Blue cheese, and herb croutons. It didn’t excite me, but the salad of Winter greens on the regular “Appetizers” section certainly did. I make my own Winter greens salad so I was curious to see how Local Three’s version would compare.

A compilaton of frissee, dried apricots, cherries, raisins, toasted walnuts, and blue cheese, it was not as good as it sounded due to the salty, lackluster dressing. My salad kicks their salad’s ass. B’s greens also suffered under a over-salted dressing she described as juvenile. Both servings were large enough to share.

For soups we again chose one from “Today”, an irresistible dish called “Hot Crab on Crab Action”, Charleston she-crab soup topped with Alaskan King crab claws. If you are unfamiliar with she-crab soup, it is made with the roe from the female crab (hense she-crab), cream and sherry. The soup is usually rich and creamy but I found this version to be somewhat lighter with an abundance of crab meat, both in the soup and on top. I thought it was very good but B was not impressed.

We also ordered a soup from “Appetizers”, the creamy sweet potato soup, a disappointing puree that B compared to baby food. The smoked bacon, peanuts, and scallions on top did little to salvage it.

B tried the Chesapeake Bay wild striped bass for her entree, while I went with the grilled Cervena venison. Her fish, served with honey roasted turnips, rutabega, escarole, lemon, and dates, hit all the right notes. It was a fantastic dish.

I ordered my venison medium-rare. With black pepper spaetzle, spring Vidalia onion and huckleberry jus, it was a hearty plate. My meat was, unfortunately, on the rare side, and not as tender as one would wish for. A solid Winter dish.

Chef Hall stopped by inquiring about our meal. He’s a big dude. I’m not sure if he knew we were food writers but chances are, he would have visited either way.

B and I rarely skip dessert, this time sharing the pecan pie. My first impression was that it was more crust than filling. A few nibbles of it with the vanilla ice cream on top was more than enough sugar.

I wanted to love it, I wanted the three local pigs to wow us. No doubt, I will try Local Three again, if not only for its owners’ sense of humor and commitment to quality. To quote the menu “you can’t argue with delicious”.

But you can argue with mediocre.

3290 Northside Parkway NW 404-968-2700

As promised, I’m dedicating a separate post to the Brussels sprouts B and I shared at Local Three. Described as crispy, I was anticipating the dreaded al dente preparation before we even ordered them.

Our server delivered the small bowl of Brussels with our cheeses and charcuterie. I breathed a sigh of relief as they were clearly roasted, the edges charred to the point of crispness. The sprouts were perfectly tender.

One would think B and I had found a replacement for the dreamy roasted Brussels sprouts we had adored at Top Flr. Unfortunately, the simplicity of the preparation lacked creativity. The veggies were tossed with olive oil and an uneven sprinkling of salt and pepper prior to roasting, causing some sprouts to suffer from too much salt while others were perfectly seasoned.

There was no pancetta, no vinegar, no pinenuts, no surprises, and thus, no prize.

Recently, I had the opportunity to sample a meal from Good Measure Meals, a local company that prepares and delivers healthy gourmet meals.

They offer several calorie options and plans, from dinner only to a full day’s worth of meals and snacks. The best part is that 100% of the profits go to Atlanta nonprofit Open Hand. Seriously cool.

My dinner selection was chicken roulade Florencia topped with mushroom sauce, served with bulgar and lentil pilaf with caramelized onions and Brussels sprouts. Part of a 1200 calorie plan, the meal had 380 calories made up of 11 grams of fat, 43 grams of carbs, and 29 grams of protein. It was relatively high in sodium, 800 mg, compared to many frozen entrees I purchase that hover around the 600 mg mark.

Although a typical dinner that I prepare myself is closer to 300 calories, being lower in carbs and protein, I was pleased with the quality and flavor of this meal. As the name suggests, the chicken was a thin breast piece, rolled up with a spinach filling. The Brussels sprouts were steamed tender but lacked excitement. Bulgur and lentil pilaf was earthy with a nice toothsome quality, contributing to the whopping 11 grams of fiber in the meal. It was hearty and satisfying.

If I were a busy dieter, I would definitely consider using Good Measure Meals. They are fresh and creative, plus I admire their efforts to give back to the community.

For my birthday, B took me to one of our old haunts, Top Flr. We love to sit at the bar, sip a glass of wine and catch up on the drama of our very exciting lives.

Chef Shane changes up the menu occassionally, but a few dishes have remained since the restaurant opened. For instance, the mussels. I love them, bathed in a fragrant broth made with coconut milk, lime juice, and soy with hints of lemongrass, and ginger.

More recently, his addition of tender roasted Brussels sprouts as a side confirmed that he is, indeed, one of Atlanta’s most talented chefs. Their distinctive smoky flavor was so incredible even sprout haters would be enamored with this dish.

So, on my birthday visit I was excited to have those two dishes….mussels and Brussels. B ordered roasted artic char with couscous…too basic for my taste but she enjoyed it. My huge bowl of mussels was amazing as always, served with a big hunk of ciabatta for sopping.

The Brussels sprouts, however, were not the same. This new recipe, described on the menu as shredded, gratin, with bacon, creme, and fennel, featured al dente sprouts. Initially, B and I thought it was a kitchen f*ck up and sent them back. But they came out again, crunchy and covered with browned cheese. I was seriously pissed off.

Despite my disappointment, the flavor was admittedly good, so we ate them anyway. However, it’s not a dish I would come back for.

Top Flr used to own the #1 spot in the Brussels sprouts war, but with this unfortunate turn of events, I must consider their successor. Sound Table served a fantastic roasted version not long ago….hope they didn’t follow Top Flr’s bad example.

Perhaps the best Brussels will be found at a restaurant that is not even open yet….I’ll see you There!

You know I love Brussels sprouts….even enough to spell it correctly. In fact, my friends B and BB share my love for the bitter vegetable. We order them every time we see them on a menu.

Some of the best ever were at AOC in LA…..baby sprouts roasted with pancetta. In Atlanta, Top Flr’s Brussels still take first place, with Sound Table’s coming in a close second. I really like the vinegary flavor of Bocado’s Brussels but find them a bit too al dente. And then there are the ones that find themselves on your plate, undercooked, underseasoned, unappreciated.

A couple of months ago I started roasting my own with shallots. In an effort to make them as healthy as possible I only used a tablespoon of olive oil for a large casserole dish of sprouts. The result was tasty but dry.

All this talk about Brussels sprouts has evidently sparked some debate among local chefs. What is the best method to prepare kickass sprouts?

BB, a CIA trained chef, decided to do a little experimenting with the vegetable. I took a few notes as he explained his method. First he blanched them in homemade chicken stock (seriously….homemade stock!). Meanwhile, he browned some diced pancetta in olive oil, removing the cooked bits, then browned the Brussels sprouts in the pancetta fat. Pinenuts, finely chopped shallots, dried cherries, and capers in white balsamic vinegar were added, each element meant to balance the other.

He lost me somewhere amidst the deglazing of the pan with aged balsamic or perhaps it was while he was reducing the stock. I do remember he added a sliver of foie gras butter and some shaved pecorino at the end.

I would not attempt to recreate his Brussels sprouts, the method too tedious for my ADD brain. But I was truly excited to eat them! How lucky that I had a leftover duck breast. The pancetta, dried cherries, and pinenuts were abundant, creating a sort of chutney that was the perfect match to the rich duck. The sprouts themselves were tender….just damn delicious.

There is a very good chance these Brussels will end up on the menu at his place opening later this year, giving Top Flr (and everyone else) some competition.

So….kudos to the chef! And Happy Birthday!

Open just over a month, Joey Riley’s new bistro in Brookhaven has quickly become the neighborhood hotspot, with its casual atmosphere and fusion menu. The warm golden walls are virtually naked but one hardly notices beyond the well-heeled crowd.

My dining companion was BB, the obvious choice given his history with the chef owner. BB will be opening his own restaurant and bar nearby in a few months so it certainly doesn’t hurt to know the competition, friendly or otherwise.

The place was packed as we waited for a couple of seats at the kitchen counter. I love eating at the bar, but I really love eating at a counter where the line cooks’ performance is the entertainment.

A few moments later, Joey brought out a small bowl of house roasted cashews and peanuts, spiced up with Thai chili and scallions. They went well with BB’s beer. He also gave us a bowl of spicy Berkshire pork rinds, a.k.a chiccarones, that were greaseless and crisp….an ironic but weirdly good pairing with my glass of Laurent Perrier champagne.

The third small plate we sampled was the pub fries served with duck fat mayonnaise. I’ve long preferred mayo over ketchup, and Riley’s housemade mayo was particularly tasty for dipping his crunchy fries which were not at all greasy.

Riley also sent out a bamboo steamer with two Chinese steamed buns, a starter listed under “First Impressions”. It made a good one. Pork belly, pickles, and hoisin sauce on soft, piping hot buns could have only been improved by adding cilantro.

Both of us enjoy a good glass of red wine so we decided to get a bottle of Syrah called 6th Sense. This is one of the best wines I’ve tried in recent memory….vanilla and nutmeg on the nose and smooth despite a peppery kick. I’ll be looking for it at retail, should be affordably priced around $15.

As we sipped our awesome wine we watched as the line cooks put up dozens of burgers, many of them doubles. You may remember chef Riley won the Battle of the Burgers a few months back before the restaurant’s doors were even open with a pimento cheese, slaw, and green tomato chow chow topped burger, now available all the time at Kaleidoscope.

We could have stopped there but decided to continue through the menu, ordering the Thai style beef jerky, pieces of lean dried beef enhanced by a zingy dressing made with fish sauce and lime juice.

There’s a good bit of Asian influence on Riley’s menu. Rumor has it he studied in Asia prior to landing at The Buckhead Diner. There is also a strong dose of good ol’ Southern cooking. Start with the ahi tuna tartare and follow it with shrimp ‘n’ grits. Why not?

Following our array of appetizers, BB and I decided on two entrees, the sage roasted pork porterhouse and the skillet fried chicken breast, mainly because I wanted to try all the sides that came with them.

The pork porterhouse, an enormous slab of swine, was cooked to medium at the chef’s recommendation. Some folks might be squeamish about undercooked pork but it doesn’t really phase me, as long as it is a quality sourced meat such as Berkshire pork used by Kaleidoscope. It was served with fingerling potatoes and Brussels sprouts.

There’s an ongoing drama with Brussels sprouts dating back to an experience we had at Bocado. Prepared with pine nuts, parmesan, tiny croutons, and a good dose of vinegar, the flavor of their Brussels is fantastic. They are, unfortunately, al dente, and I prefer most of my veggies cooked until soft. I’m from the South after all. BB, on the other hand, is a Yankee and likes them al dente. And that is how they are at Kaleidoscope. I didn’t care for them.

I rarely order fried chicken. By rarely I mean never. However, chef Riley serves his with local collards and baked mac ‘n’ cheese, both of which I insisted on trying. The airline breast had a good amount of breading but it needed a bit more seasoning. Some portions had become slightly soggy, others slightly greasy, but the chicken beneath the crust was seriously tender.

I may not be an expert on fried chicken but I damn sure know my collards. You might even say I’m a collards sommelier! The collards at Empire State South were perhaps the best I have ever tasted, but these were a close second, simmered in chicken stock (according to BB) and flavored with pancetta.

The mac ‘n’ cheese was not quite as stellar. Although it is finished in the oven with some crisped breadcrumbs on top, the sauce that coats the corkscrew pasta is rather thin.

Dessert? Of course. Our server rattled off at least ten options. It’s hard for me to remember a verbal listing, but luckily we both fixated on the same one….the s’mores brownie. Toasted marshmallows are good on just about anything.

I’ll be back for the burger.

1410 Dresden Drive 404-474-9600

Months following our first visit to The Sound Table, B and I stopped in for a late dinner after our official Christmas celebration….yes, two weeks late. We chatted with owner Darren Carr, then took the only table available to find an (almost) entirely revamped menu, due to new chef Brendan Keenan. Chef Shane Devereux developed the original menu with lots of Asian influences but is now spending more time at Top Flr.

A few original items remain such as the popular Oaxacan hanger steak and Spatchcock grilled chicken, most likely because they have cool names (LOL!). Seriously, the steak is killer. Me and B could not resist its tender temptation, pairing it with Brussels sprouts. At Darren’s suggestion we tried the sunchoke puree. A new dish, the grilled quail, also got my attention. We decided to split the four.

They closed the upstairs dining room early so this would be our first time eating downstairs. I really like the minimalist space. We started with a glass of red wine each, B choosing the better of the two, then laughed about the Christmas gifts we exchanged earlier in the evening as we waited for food to arrive.

A small square cast-iron dish was delivered, full of Brussels sprouts roasted with shallots, Benton’s bacon, and sherry vinegar. Damn. Who would have thought that Brussels sprouts could be orgasmic? As good at Top Flr’s, no doubt.

We ordered our steak medium rare, and like last time, it was on the rare side. Arbol chili marinated, and served resting in a pool of pico de gallo, there is no shortage of flavor here.

The grilled quail, however, was an odd bird indeed. Puzzling how it was listed under salads. Three slices of the quail’s leg and thigh were devoid of skin and served on a crispy grits cake that was substantial yet somewhat flavorless. Wilted greens alongside looked and tasted like bok choy and a sauce described as pomegranite balsamic wasn’t much more than a smattering of seeds. The sum of the parts was less than I expected.

Sunchoke puree sounded like an offbeat dish that would elicit oohs and ahhs much like Miller Union’s farm egg in celery cream. The poached egg was there but that’s where the similarity ends. There was a strange aftertaste that reminded me of dishwater, but B didn’t seem to notice. Perhaps it was the earthiness of the roasted mushrooms?

This new menu shares a lot of common ground with Top Flr’s quirky small plate concept yet lacks that definitive wow factor. One thing’s for sure, music is still on the menu. They were crankin’ up the funk as we were checking out.

483 Edgewood Avenue 404-835-2534

I’m trying to kick my sugar habit. For the time being, no caramel corn, mocha popsicles, Clif Bars, or even fruit. Instead of berries with breakfast I add in veggies, making a delicious Southwest omelette this morning, with avocado, tomato, cilantro, and pepperjack cheese.

As with any change in diet, ya gotta keep it interesting or you’ll quickly slip back into old habits. I went nuts in the produce department on my last visit to Whole Foods, buying organic squash, zucchini, a poblano pepper, cippolinis, the avocado, hericot vert, tomatoes, and a bag of Brussels sprouts.

I love Brussels sprouts, usually cutting them in half and sauteing them with some onion and lots of fresh black pepper. But this time I wanted to try roasting them with the cippolinis and some shallots.

Here is my experimental recipe:

16 oz. baby Brussels sprouts
2 shallots
2 cippolini onions
2 cloves garlic
1 tblsp. olive oil
Nature’s Seasoning, to taste
Black pepper, to taste
Salt, use common sense

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Spray a large casserole dish with oil. Wash the Brussels sprouts, trimming off the ends and cutting the larger ones in half. Peel the shallots and cippolinis, cutting them in half. Mince the garlic with a press and add. Drizzle with olive oil (could easily use 2 tblsp.) and seasonings, and toss to coat the veggies evenly.

Roast for about 35-45 minutes, depending on desired tenderness. I took them out and stirred them around a few times, adding additional seasoning, and continued putting them back in the oven for a total of 45 minutes. Next time I may increase the heat to 425 and see if that shortens the roasting time.

They were delicious! I served them with tilapia for dinner and divided the remainder into two servings, one for lunch the next day and the other didn’t make it past midnight….they were that good.

We tried to go to Sound Table. Really, we did. But our friend CL was out of sorts and swore I said Top Flr. So, of course, that is where we ended up.

It was late-ish and I was hungry-ish. B and I made our entrance, said our hellos, and quickly ordered some wine. Quick, however, wasn’t the manner of delivery. It wasn’t N’s fault, all of the glasses were dirty. My lack of patience made the wait seem like forever but it was probably only ten minutes.

Once we each had a glass of Bordeaux, we were ready to order food. The roasted chicken and kimchee plate at Taste of Atlanta had me craving the actual dish. B decided on the pappardelle, the current version with mushrooms. Both of us love Brussels sprouts so we had the Brussels au gratin and the irresistible mac ‘n’ cheese on the side.

As is often the case, seated at the bar, meals at Top Flr become a communal experience. Folks show up, pull up a chair and by the end of the evening you’ve sampled food from friends and strangers alike.

PLB was there with his awesome wife J. JM was running the show. O popped in and joined us, ordering the mouthwatering duck confit pizza. Our entrees and smoldering sides came. My chicken was a tiny little thing, more like a Cornish game hen, however, the portion was rather large. Its crispy brown skin covered the succulent dark meat (did I have three leg quarters?) atop a soy reduction, paired with perfectly spicy kimchee made with Brussels sprouts.

The other preparation of Brussels sprouts, gratin with bacon, cream and fennel was one of the most amazing dishes I’ve had in recent memory. O took a bite and said “I got a big chunk of pork and it was goooooood!” I commented to Dinner Party sommelier JD who was working the bar that I could eat a bowl of it for breakfast and he concurred.

B’s pappardelle was the very definition of comfort food, rich and earthy with chanterelle, oyster, and lobster mushrooms in a creamy truffle jus. The simplicity of the pappardelle belies the hours of labor it takes to make it in-house. It is easy for diners to take the flawless pasta for granted.

An acquaintance of O’s was seated an few stools down from me and we got to chatting about our mutual love of food. Later he offered me a taste of his roasted squash.

My least favorite dish of the evening was the mac ‘n’ cheese. It was a little drier than usual. O shared his duck confit pizza which was as decadent and delicious as ever.

Sound Table, sorry we stood you up. We’ll be back soon, I promise!

674 Myrtle Street 404-685-3110

After the longest day of my life last Thursday, I was on my way home when I got a call from BB to meet him at Bocado. Having already had a glass or two of wine, I couldn’t refuse the offer for a cap on my nightcap.

Some places do one or two things really well, becoming known for a signature dish. Bocado is a prime example. Their “stacks”, sandwiches piled high with all kinds of deliciousness, are what keep folks coming back, and also explains the restaurant’s monicker which is Portuguese for “mouthful”. If I want a fried green tomato and pimento cheese sandwich, I go to Bocado.

Their combo of roasted poblanos, fried green tomatoes, pimento cheese, and bacon on grilled sourdough is awesome. The ingredients are stacked, some warm, some cool, so that the cheese just begins to melt. It is served with a satisfying tomato bisque. Honestly, I would never have ordered this sandwich if I hadn’t read so many great reviews. I’ve also had the burger stack which has won many fans around town, including being voted Best Burger by Creative Loafing’s staff in their recent “Best Of” issue. It is served with flawless fries, dipped in mayo.

Beer and wine selections are smarter than smart. Bocado has great neighborhood appeal. But the truth is I rarely have the craving for that specific sandwich and it is the only thing I’ve eaten there that commands a repeat performance. And if I wanted a burger I would go to YEAH! Burger right around the corner.

There are plenty of other items on their menu and, admittedly, I’ve only tried about half of them (which is enough, right?). The big plates, with combinations like pork with borlotti beans and carrots and flatiron steak with potato puree and turnips, just don’t turn me on.

Seated at the bar I ordered a glass of red wine, a zin I believe. BB was on his second glass. It was already near 10pm, a bit late for a calorie-dense sandwich, so we chose a couple of small plates, the deviled eggs and crab fritters.

BB had already ordered the Brussels sprouts for us to snack on, a small plate that I rather enjoyed the first time. The petite veggies are halved, complimented by capers, tiny croutons, and shaved parmesan with a definitive vinegary bite. Their flavor rocks, just wish they were cooked a bit longer to smooth out the bitterness of the Brussels. BB likes them al dente, so no complaints from him.

Crab fritters, the fried and less classy cousin to the crab cake, were served with a corn and pepper salad and aioli that tasted pretty much like tartar sauce. Fishy fried balls. Not my thing.

Deviled eggs were much better, their creamy yolk filling topped with crisped bits of prosciutto. But the serving of five is a bit curious. On offer for dessert? Three types of cake, I kid you not. Neither of us like cake so there was a resounding “no thanks!”

Once again, I enjoyed the atmosphere and service at Bocado, but for me, the menu lacks that something special that would catapult it from ordinary to extraordinary.

Photos courtesy of BB