Hot Dish Review

It was late Friday night and LC and I still had not decided on dinner plans, so we got in his car, as we often do, without a specific destination in mind. He turned left, then right, passing a number of restaurants that we didn’t want to visit. LC wanted to watch the NCAA tournament and I wanted high quality food….two things that usually don’t go hand in hand.

We were running out of options when we drove by Rosebud. I spotted big screen TV’s behind the bar so we decided to give it a shot. We had eaten there once before a couple of years ago, the memory of their earthy mushroom toasts still fresh in my head.

The space is deceptively large, with dining rooms to the left and right of the entrance where the bar is located. Wood and exposed brick combine with shades of deep yellow for warmth and Southern charm.

We took the last two seats at the bar, his eyes glued to the TV, mine glued to the menu. Mushroom toasts were long gone, but there was a list of specials that included lobster lettuce wraps, so we decided on those and an order of Brussels sprouts to start. A split of Freixenet prior to our dinner prompted me to order a glass of cava while LC couldn’t resist a skinny margarita.

Halved and roasted, the sprouts were large but tender, tossed with a maple sambal glaze. No complaints but the Brussels sprouts war is currently being won by Hearth in Sandy Springs. Two leaves of butter lettuce were generously filled with lobster salad but I was surprised that there was no dipping sauce, making the lettuce wraps anticlimactic for me. LC used the remaining maple sambal glaze to add flavor….a good idea but I had already eaten my plain wrap.

As we often do, we ordered an entree and side to split. A massive Riverview Farms pork chop was cooked medium-well and served on a tangy sweet bed of braised red cabbage. Pears are a natural accompaniment to pork, here served pickled, and arranged on top. An enormous potato and kale casserole may not have been my first choice as a side, but the crunchy bread crumb topping convinced me it was the right one. There was a good bit of fat on the chop, but we carefully cut around it and didn’t leave a morsel of meat on the plate.

Our attention was divided between dinner and dunks, but during commercials we watched the bartenders shaking up some pretty cocktails. Perhaps in an unwise move, I decided to follow my bubbly with a drink called “Mexican firing squad special”, made with tequila, lime, and housemade grenadine. A dash of bitters floated on top along with a preserved black cherry from a $100 can imported from Italy. (Yes, they are worth it).

Although we don’t visit often, I can see why chef Eyester’s restaurant is consistently packed. The ambiance is warm and inviting and the food is what it should be….delicious. The final score? Rosebud 1, hunger 0.

1397 N. Highland Avenue 404-347-9747

Jay Swift’s eponymous restaurant, located in a renovated factory on an otherwise barren stretch of North Avenue, has earned its reputation as one of Atlanta’s best. Well-crafted dishes made with locally sourced ingredients showcase his attention to detail and define his kitchen prowess.

A recent visit with another couple proved, once again, that Swift has a winning formula. It was a blustery Winter’s evening so I was thrilled that the valet is located at the bottom of the stairs leading to the restaurant’s door. Shockingly, TH and her man D were already seated awaiting our arrival.

We joined them and ordered some drinks, a tequila cocktail for him and a glass of prosecco for me. LC took charge and decided we would share three appetizers, including the seared pork belly. I pushed for the octopus despite some looks of concern, and the nearly famous Brussels sprouts which everyone was excited to try.

Three oblong plates arrived and four forks went to work, first a taste of tender octopus, then a bite of Brussels sprouts. A zippy citrus note challenged the smokiness of the wood-grilled Spanish octopus, accompanied by charred pearl onions and fresh arugula on a puree of salsify with red wine. The menu specifies how each ingredient is prepared, making it sound complicated, however, the result is simple…and simply delicious.

Swift’s Brussels sprouts, featured on a recent episode of Atlanta Eats, are roasted and served with sliced North Georgia apples, then dotted with creme fraiche and sprinkled with toasted pistachios, the bitterness of the vegetable cut by a drizzle of sweet apple cider reduction. Of course, that’s how everybody makes them, right? Not even a leaf of a sprout remained.

Chunks of pork belly, the cut of pork from which bacon is made, were interestingly paired with miniature sweet potato muffins….an homage to Southern ingredients. Shaved watermelon radish added color and crunch.

Our friends didn’t come hungry so they were happy with only appetizers. Although I usually decide on a shared entree, LC had zeroed in on the Wagyu flank steak with patatas bravas, charred scallions, sauteed greens, and black garlic jus. As if we didn’t have enough, we ordered an additional side of Brussels sprouts (as opposed to the appetizer version described above), a generous bowl drizzled with creme fraiche. Perfectly cooked to medium, the steak was awesome but nevertheless, I would have chosen the duck breast.

I rarely skip dessert and this occassion was no exception. Unable to decide on one, LC was convinced our companions would help us eat them so we ordered two, the sticky toffee pudding and pear crostada. Flavored with butterscotch, the dense pudding was traditional English comfort food.

My preference, however, was the rustic crostada, simply made by wrapping the fruit with pastry crust and baking. Both desserts were finished with a generous scoop of homemade vanilla bean ice cream.

Service was seamless and our meal was the epitome of modern comfort food. If you are planning a visit, make sure to go while the Brussels sprouts are in season!

621 North Avenue NE 678-904-0160

It was a cool rainy Winter’s night and all I wanted to do was go home and curl up on the sofa, but a last minute dinner invitation was too tempting to resist: “The Optimist you say?” Hmmm….sofa or seafood. “Uh, sure, I’m available for dinner at 9pm!”

Perhaps the name The Optimist was conceived to counteract this country’s economic downturn, as it seems optimism is truly contagious. Regardless, chef and owner Ford Fry has a winner on his hands with this seafood restaurant in the booming Westside, just down the street from his other restaurant, JCT Kitchen.

It’s a gorgeous industrial modern space with exposed brick, metal trusses, and lots of wood including what appears to be original flooring. Lighting behind both bars exudes warmth. I imagine the space to be light and airy during daytime hours. Outside, there is a small yet tricky putting green. Colorful balls and putters are available inside at the hostess stand. Who doesn’t want to play a little golf after dining on oysters?

I met BG at the oyster bar where she was enjoying a cocktail. A glossy white brick oven with a blue octopus painted on it provides a whimsical focal point. We were escorted to our table in the almost full dining room….quite a feat at 9pm on a rainy Monday. I ordered a glass of bubbly.

We decided to share a couple of starters, garlicky littleneck clams and spicy Spanish octopus. Wafer thin slices of garlic and a handful of parsley flavored the clams’ broth, with a thick slice of Texas toast for dipping. A huge tentacle, much like the ones painted on the oven, was roasted and sauced with a kimchee puree. Delightful and photogenic.

On to entrees, we thought sharing one would leave room for dessert….a wise move. However, it was difficult to decide between the grouper and scallops so we flipped a coin. Grouper won. It was served with roasted Japanese eggplant, piquillo peppers, and pine nuts. Probably not the most exciting dish ever, but I’m never too excited by fish. We also ordered a couple of extra veggies, Brussels sprouts and turnip greens. Both were good but neither outstanding. I heard the scallops were amazing, after the fact, of course.

Another glass of bubbly and it was time for dessert. Our server listed them verbally. BG inquired about the “Savannah style” beignets, which were described as layered and heavier than New Orleans style. Drizzled with syrup and served with creme fraiche, they were indeed dense but delicious.

Although it wasn’t the best meal I’ve had recently, the atmosphere and service were superior. There are enough items on the menu to bring me back, like the frothy she-crab soup, Maine mussels in green curry broth (yes!), and of course, the scallops. Plus, I need to improve my putting.

914 Howell Mill Road 404-477-6260

I’m going to have to eat my words. Maybe with some pesto. I always tell people I hate Italian food, when the fact is, I really only hate what most Americans consider to be Italian food, like spaghetti with meatballs and marinara.

A recent assignment took me to Davio’s, a relatively new Northern Italian restaurant at Phipp’s Plaza. Like all Italian restaurants, there are pastas, but none of them with marinara. Instead of pizzas you’ll find Tuscan white bean and hand-rolled gnocchi with basil truffle oil.

This is the fourth Davio’s location in the U.S., the first opening in Boston in 1985. The company has grown slowly, taking its time to perfect the concept before branching out to different markets. White tablecloths, upholstered seating, and fat columns give the space a traditional fine dining feel. I ordered a bellini followed by an unusual selection of an off-dry riesling. Both were fantastic.

The menu reads like a study in decadence, from seared foie gras to lobster risotto, until you get to the section titled Marchi. This section is a brief list of Davio’s trademark Spring rolls which come in four flavors that mimic other dishes, for instance the Philly Cheese Steak Spring Roll. They even sell them wholesale to supermarkets. I don’t get it. It’s as out of place as pizza at a sushi bar. But we were obligated to try them, so we ordered the sampler. As expected, LC loved the crispy fried rolls, especially the Buffalo Chicken. I was not impressed.

In addition to the Spring rolls we ordered the steamed mussels to share. The aromatic broth, flavored with ginger, lemongrass and fresh basil had a little kick, but I found the shellfish to be on the small side. LC devoured them as I focused on my foie gras. Seared and paired with roasted Georgia peaches, I initially thought the kitchen had plated an enormous serving of foie gras with no peach because the port glaze made everything look the same. Even our server thought they had made a mistake and whisked the dish away for repair. Meanwhile, I requested some undressed field greens on the side, my favorite way to cut the richness of foie gras. Our server returned, explaining the peach was hidden beneath two lovely slices of the goose liver. I proceeded to cut a piece of each and brushed a few leaves of baby romaine through the port glaze. Heavenly.

That was just the appetizers. The next dish was ravioli stuffed with Maine lobster in a rich basil cream sauce. Pastas come in two sizes so we ordered the small bowl and treated it as a side to accompany an 8 oz. center cut filet mignon. I couldn’t pass up the pan roasted Brussels sprouts while LC had a hankerin’ for the green beans with crispy pancetta.

Our steak was kitchen split, each half (that looked to be around 6 oz. each rather than 4 oz.) individually seared to a perfect medium. Served with caramelized onions and two housemade sauces, horseradish cream and a citrus herb sauce called prezzemolata, it was the best steak both of us had eaten in years, perhaps ever! Each bite melted in our mouths, after which we exclaimed “Oh my God, this is amazing!” It was so incredibly delicious, no sauce was required, but the prezzemolata was terrific so I couldn’t resist dipping a few bites in. We savored every morsel.

Brussels sprouts were roasted until tender and tasty. Lots of porky pancetta punctuated the skinny, whole green beans. Despite its richness, we polished off the lobster ravioli and had the nerve to order dessert.

I was disappointed to discover this Italian restaurant did not serve gelato, so we opted for what seemed to be the lightest, a strawberry parfait with vanilla ice milk and lemon pound cake croutons. A textural delight, it would have been better without the hint of lemon, and with a dollop of whipped cream.

But why stop there? Our server, who’s timing was impeccable, suggested we take home a second dessert, the traditional Italian tiramisu. Sadly, it didn’t even make it to the refrigerator.

Certainly not inexpensive, Davio’s is the perfect choice for a special occassion or if your pockets are particularly deep. Do I like Italian food, you ask? If it’s Davio’s, I love it.

3500 Peachtree Road 404-844-4810

My first visit to Concentrics’ new restaurant, The Spence, was a lovely experience. Soft lighting warmed up the cool modern industrial space. Dramatic dishes envisioned by celebrity chef/mad scientist Richard Blais elicited excitement. My anticipation was met with brilliant, quirky combinations that worked most of the time. And when they did, it was heavenly.

I was hoping to recreate that experience on my subsequent visit with friend YP, however, most of the menu items that were amazing (beet pappardelle with duck confit, for example) were, not surprisingly, off the menu. Like most chefs these days, Blais’ menu in is constant flux due to the availability of seasonal ingredients, and of course, his whims.

YP met me on a blustery Winter night. Thankfully, there’s a valet just steps from the door. We started with a bottle of lambrusco and an order of chef’s already almost famous “oysters & pearls” for her, the carrot agnolotti with pig trotter and persimmon for me.

New to the world of cheap, chilled, sparkling red wine, YP loved the light, easy-drinking lambrusco. Of the four raw oysters, she insisted I eat one. Nitrogen was used to freeze horseradish creating the “pearls” which sufficiently concealed the mollusks’s flavor. As an oyster aficionado, YP gave them the thumbs up.

I prefered my appetizer, a long transparent plate of braised sweet carrots, caramelized persimmon slices, and pasta pockets filled with pork, capturing the essence of the season.

Our server removed our utensils, replacing them with a mishmash of vintage pieces…love that. We decided to share two additional small plates and a side. First a wooden cutting board arrived with a slab of foie gras terrine, artfully adorned with micro greens, pickled cherries and candied kumquat. Sure, it was darling, but YP noted the terrine was a bit too cold to spread and the thick slices of accompanying Texas toast were dry and crumbly. With a pork terrine offered as well, it would have been logical if the foie gras was served seared. And I dare say it would have been tastier.

Perhaps the Brussels sprouts, fried with haricots verts and dressed with a Thai vinaigrette, would fare better. Indeed, they were delicious, although a bit on the salty side.

Our third dish to share was another made with pasta, this one a mezzi rigatoni colored black by squid ink. It was served with clams, octopus, and a smattering of goat cheese, all resting in a cool sauce that reminded us of Sriracha with mayo. The seafood was properly prepared but the disparate elements of the dish simply didn’t coalesce.

Ever since we planned our dinner I was looking forward to having their housemade milk punch, served as an after dinner cordial with a few tiny, chewy cookies. After we squeezed the last drop from the lambrusco bottle, I ordered it, only to find out a few moments later that they were out. However, our server thoughtfully brought us some of the tiny cookies but even they were disappointingly crisp (they are described as “crisps”, so I imagine this is the way they are meant to be although they were pleasingly chewy the last time).

The atmosphere and service were great, as before. And the food was predictably unpredictable.

75 5th Street NW 404-892-9111

BB and I arrived at the corner of Spring and 5th Street, uncertain of the parking situation. Thankfully there was valet just steps from the door of The Spence. Stepping inside, there wasn’t a hint of the location’s former incarnations, most recently Water Haven (which I never visited) and an old favorite, The Globe.

All windows and white brick on one side are a stark contrast to the umber banquettes against deep brown on the other, with a completely open kitchen serving as the focal point. A cluster of glowing orbs in a black net are suspended over the main dining room creating a subtley sexy atmosphere. Sleek industrial sheet metal tables with red stenciled numbers are set with mismatched silverware, details I loved.

Blais wasn’t there, surely busy shooting one of the celebrity chef TV shows he stars in. But it didn’t matter, his staff is so well-trained, so professional, they didn’t miss a beat. Of their seven retro-modern cocktails, we ended up trying three, the first being the Riva Trophy made with bourbon and orange bitters for BB. I tried the sparkling Saint-Hilare on Justin Amick’s smart wine list, divided into the “tried and true” and “leap of faith”. My selection was in the latter category.

Our server, Peter, was very entertaining, all the while providing seamless service. BB and I started with two of the smaller plates to share, the duck pappardelle and the hamachi with crispy lamb. The vague menu descriptions leave much to the imagination, but you can be sure, with Blais at the wheel, there could be some sharp curves.

The wide ribbons of pasta are made with beets, giving them a rich burgundy hue, but thankfully imparting no beet flavor. Pieces of duck confit mingled with the pasta and sat upon a base of cocoa gremolata, all of which was presented on a speckled ceramic dish. It was perfect.

Our second selection didn’t fare so well. Delicate hamachi was formed into spirals, matched with bite-size pieces of deep-fried veal sweetbreads. Drops of smoked aioli decorated the plate. The presentation on a wooden dish was stunning, but the disparate elements didn’t work together.

Round two of cocktails: BB tried the March Hare, a bourbon drink with chai bitters and a clever ice cube made of black tea. Changing my bubbles from light to dark, I ordered a lambrusco.

We decided to share an entree and chose two sides to go with it. Roasted pork belly with turnip, apple and mustard, a dish ordered by two chicks at the neighboring table, was delivered in true Blais style under a smoke filled glass dome. They were impressed and so were we, the aroma of bacon filling the air. My intention was to have our sides, fried Brussels sprouts and squash creme brulee’, to accompany the pork, however, they both came out prior to the theatrical presentation of our entree.

Brussels sprouts were halved and fried, then drizzled with a tangy Thai vinaigrette. Tender and crispy, they would have been even better with the pork. A ramakin of pureed yellow squash had a serious bruleed sugar crust, making every bite a creamy, crunchy delight.

Back to the bacon. Our entree arrived covered with the smoke-filled dome. We took a deep breath as Peter lifted it, releasing the porky fragrance. Blais should bottle it. The meltingly tender meat fell away from the fat easily with our forks. Roasted turnips and cubes of apple provided just enough sweet and tart to balance the rich pork belly.

And now it was time for sugar…and the third cocktail, milk punch & cookies. I hear they make it in-house with brandy, spices, sugar, and whey. The apertif glass is served with a few tiny, chewy white chocolate cookies. Just adorable and awesome.

A recent review of The Spence was accompanied by a photo of a dessert. I wanted it. The menu description belied the complex construction. Toasted peanuts were sprinkled on milk chocolate mousse and a dollop of burnt banana ice cream. The speckled dish fools one into thinking there is more going on, but it is perfectly crafted simplicity.

Impressive.

75 5th Street NW 404-892-9111

Despite its location near my home, I rarely get to this neighborhood favorite. But recently, I happened to stop by while they were filming for the new Atlanta food show Atlanta Eats. A lovely chat with chef and owner Jay Swift regarding his photography and blog set the stage for an interesting evening.

After the shoot wrapped, most of the cast and crew hung around for drinks and dinner. LC met me there where we chose a cozy table by the expansive bar. My first glass of prosecco went down easy so I ordered another plus a couple of appetizers for us to share.

A basket of miniature sourdough rolls with butter arrived with our drinks. Moments later, the crispy Brussels sprouts appeared, flavored with North Georgia apples, dollops of creme fraiche, and toasted pistachios for crunch. Apple cider reduction dressed the sprouts lending a tangy and slightly sweet note to the bitter vegetable.

Our second starter was the wood grilled Spanish octopus with a red wine salsify puree’, bitter greens, and charred pearl onions, drizzled with Winter squash vinaigrette. Swift’s talents are fully realized with this memorable Autumn dish, each element providing balance and harmony. For instance, the pureed salsify, a root vegetable often called oyster plant due to its flavor, enhanced the smokiness of the tender octopus.

There are few dishes that remain on the menu from a restaurant’s inception, in part because most chefs use locally sourced produce, making seasonal changes mandatory. However, one dish has remained a constant at 4th & Swift, the iconic Three Little Piggies entree. It is a playful trio of pork flavors and textures: tender and juicy grilled Berkshire loin, house-made pork sausage called cotachino, and crunchy chicharron “popcorn” made from the skin. Tiny bourbon marinated scoops of apple that looked like chickpeas at first glance added a touch of sweetness to the three preparations of pork, served with wilted spinach.

It’s not light, it’s not cheap, but it’s damn good. We should visit more often!

621 North Avenue NE 678-904-0160

Lunch for me usually consists of a salad eaten out of a plastic container at my desk, eyes fixed on my computer screen. A lunchtime meeting with DC of Atlanta Eats gave me the opportunity to add some excitement to my humdrum midday meal.

I suggested Miller Union, thinking of their baked egg in celery cream, a dish I adore. Plus, the country chic furnishings remind me of Grandma’s house, with cast iron skillets and Mason jars decorating the cupboards.

As I arrived late, DC was already halfway through his cocktail, Captain John’s Punch. I usually base my drink selection on the season and the cuisine, for instance, margaritas with Mexican food in the Summer, or red wine with roasted pork in the Winter. This warm yet breezy Fall day confused me so I chose an all-purpose sparkling French rose’.

Noticing rather quickly that the baked egg in celery cream is not on the lunch menu, I regrouped. Two lunch entrees caught my attention and I was once again perplexed. Sweet tea smoked chicken or pan roasted quail? Our server recommended the quail without hesitation, perhaps annoyed at mine. DC ordered the cheeseburger with fries. A side of roasted Brussels sprouts were unnecessary yet irresistible.

My little bird was perched upon a puree of sweet potatoes nearly covered with farro, a brilliant pairing of creamy and toothsome. A handful of fresh arugula brightened the composition and added a peppery note. I’m finding farro everywhere these days and it’s quickly becoming my favorite grain. In fact, Satterfield’s dish of farro piccolo was my favorite at the recent Sunday Supper benefitting the James Beard Foundation.

I was so enthralled with my lunch that I hardly noticed the plate of roasted Brussels sprouts, but eventually their crispy charred edges and tender interiors beckoned. Indeed delicious, the only thing missing was bacon. Affectionately called “the daily grind” on Miller Union’s menu, DC’s cheeseburger was anything but average. Check out the size of that thing! We each ordered another round of cocktails before licking our plates.

Chef Satterfield stopped by our table, perhaps because he recognized me, or perhaps because we were the last table (which explains the lack of patrons in the photo), and we chatted a bit about the blustery conditions at the Sunday Supper. DC inquired about the ketchup’s pedigree, to which chef confirmed it was house-made. Of course. Who the hell buys ketchup?

999 Brady Avenue NW 678-733-8550

La Pietra Cucina in Buckhead is now simply called LPC, a more casual name that corresponds with the restaurant’s revamped interior and more approachable menu.

Not known for my love of Italian cuisine, I had not visited the restaurant in its former incarnation, but was happy to be invited to a media dinner as Concentrics unveiled the new concept and menu, along with its celebrity chef Russell Kook who almost won season 8 of Hell’s Kitchen.

As everyone arrived, we were greeted by Hannah and Michaela of Concentrics PR and treated to a glass of Tuscan chardonnay or the Sardinian cannonau, the rich and somewhat dry red that I chose.

An abbrieviated family style menu made it easy for our large group. The first course was an array of salads and appetizers including luscious scallops with cauliflower puree and fried octopus served atop grilled frisee, white beans, pickled pearl onions, and finished with a smoky arrabiata sauce. My favorite, however, was the bowl of charred fiorello peppers spooned onto our plates by our awesome server.

I was impressed with the numerous vegetarian options available for BG who writes for the impossibly cool, cutting-edge website Urbandaddy. She enjoyed the Brussels sprout salad, a mound of julienned sprouts flavored with pecorino, hardboiled egg, and marcona almonds. I, however, was envisioning roasted sprouts tossed with a vinaigrette (and perhaps some pancetta!), so I didn’t love it.

The selection of entrees was equally impressive. Should I choose the linguini carbonara, the classic pasta dish with pancetta, or the braised short rib with polenta? I couldn’t resist the carbonara, with the poached duck egg on top, to be stirred into the pasta upon serving, creating a rich and decadent sauce.

BG ordered the butternut squash “piramide”, little pasta pockets filled with pureed squash and ricotta salata, in a somewhat sweet brown butter sauce with sage and amaretti. Sure, it’s become a ubiquitous vegetarian Italian dish, but chef Kook’s version was a standout.

Once all of the entrees were delivered, we realized no one ordered the short rib. Moments later, two plates arrived for us to share. One bite of the meltingly tender beef made me wish I had ordered it all for myself! Creamy Anson Mills polenta, cippolini onions, and a generous garnish of pinenut gremolata united to create a meaty masterpiece.

Bob Amick arrived just in time for dessert, pouring the remaining wine for us (hense the blurry photo) and chatting about the renovations and new direction for the location, as well as his multi-faceted project in St. Louis. Chef Kook was seated at our table as well while we devoured a deceptively light warm chocolate budino, a cross between cake and pudding, garnished with a hint of sea salt and a smudge of Nutella.

We concluded our Italian feast with plates of Sicilian zeppole, little fried doughnuts sprinkled with sugar and dipped in espresso crema.

Much like my visit to Davio’s, I found the meal at LPC to be anything but typical Italian food. The dishes were flavored with authentic, Italian ingredients, yet defied classification as such. Looks (and tastes) like another winner for Amick and his team….Bravo!

1545 Peachtree Street 404-888-8709

Anchored by a forty foot long bar with bottles of whiskey lining its rough brick walls, The Family Dog in the Virginia Highlands is Rosebud’s naughty teenage brother.

LC and I ended up there by accident, although he secretly was drawn to it by the promise of live music. Located across the street from the reserved yet neighborly Rosebud, both owned by chef Ron Eyester and Jason Chenette, one can expect a grownup pub menu at The Family Dog. And as the name implies, guests are welcome to bring their pooches when dining on the sidewalk patio.

A well-edited list of draft and bottled beers range from blue collar selections like a 16 oz. can of PBR to local small batch craft beers like the Jailhouse Brewing Misdemeanor Red Ale from Hampton, Georgia. I started with a drink of unquestionable pedigree, a Guinness draft.

Neither of us had eaten lunch and it was nearly 5pm, so when LC ordered the crispy Brussels sprouts before I had a chance to review the menu, I was quite pleased. Roasted, then finished with a soy-citrus scallion vinaigrette, those suckers were enormous….and tasty. However, not as good as the phenomenal sprouts served at Hearth.

We decided to share, as we almost always do, a couple of appetizers: crispy rock shrimp tacos with sesame slaw, cilantro, and sambal mayo and smoked duck quesadilla with pickled vegetables and goat cheese. I moved on to one of four heavyweights offered on draft, the Highland Oatmeal Porter.

Our tacos arrived, two flour tortillas piled high with fried shrimp encased in unfortunately thick batter, disguising the flavor of the delicate seafood. The crispy slaw beneath them added textural interest but the best part was the whole sprig of cilantro and the sambal sauce, not mayo at all, but a sweet, sticky, spicy brown sauce reminiscent of hoisin that complemented the Asian elements of the tacos.

On occassion, a dish does not match what I envision. This was the case with the quesadilla. I was thinking lots of tangy goat cheese mingling with chunks of stringy, gamey duck. I wasn’t sure where the pickled vegetables fit in and this was, perhaps, the disconnect. The disproportionate amount of meat to cheese was unusual. In fact, it was hard to find any cheese. The quesadilla, cut into three wedges rested on a bed of pickled veggies, which was fine. But the addition of pickled carrots and cabbage inside just didn’t work. A better pairing with duck might be roasted figs or candied pear slices, right?

Befitting the restaurant’s name, both dishes were mutts, combining Asian flavors with traditional Mexican dishes. Honestly, it’s a trend that’s becoming irritating.

My final drink selection was a beer from Southern Tier Brewing called Creme Brulee Imperial Stout. With heavy notes of toffee and chocolate, it was perfect for dessert.

I love their tagline: Sit. Drink. Stay. LC and I will certainly return, perhaps for brunch or a late-night meal and some live music. Probably both.

1402 N. Highland Avenue 404-249-0180