Hot Dish Review

The Westside is exploding! From Abattoir to Miller Union, art galleries to furniture stores, The West Egg and Baccanalia now have a new slew of gentrified neighbors. Bocado is the latest boom….ST and I visited Saturday night. The staff was more than accommodating as our asses arrived an hour late.

Brian Lewis, the owner of Bocado, is not British but he begs the description (spoken with a British accent) of a “brilliant fellow”. His personal attention throughout our meal was charming. He recommended a hearty, spicy red and does a stellar job with the wine program, owing in part (I’m sure) to his family’s vineyard.

Bocado means mouthful in Portugese, although the menu is entirely American. I don’t get that.

The space is modern, spare, fresh. ST described it as vibrant. I like that. The crowd is hip and they know it. Light wood tables and matching mod chairs rest upon the ubiquitous concrete floors. Some walls sport shades of green. Only a tiny vase of sage and thyme decorate each table. Stainless steel lamps hang above the central servers’ station. I can imagine it will be awesome to sit on the patio here in the Spring.

We started with mussels and brussels, not because it rhymes (although that would be a compelling reason) but because I love both. Bocado’s mussels rest in a white wine broth with shallots, basil, and chilies. Not bad, not great, a little plain I guess. Unfortunately, I could not detect any chilies which would have added some much-needed zing. Brussels sprouts boasted a vinegary tang from the capers, and were further dressed with thyme, parmesan, and tiny croutons. A bit undercooked and underseasoned for my taste.

It’s impossible not to compare Bocado to Miller Union, particularly since B and I ordered clams (served in their shells like mussels) and brussels there as well. Sorry, but Miller Union kicks Bocado’s ass. Their clam’s broth was a heady combination of bacon and fennel, the brussels were soft, charred in bacon drippings with herbs.

As a third starter I considered the veal cheek with creamy polenta or the crab fritters with an Asian salad, but ended up with the damn foie gras even though it was au torchon. I don’t even like that preparation but I still could not resist! It was the sweet potato and date condiment that convinced me. Again, disappointment reared its ugly head. The slice of foie gras sat upon a condiment that tasted only of applesauce. Chicken liver “goodness” comes with applesauce….maybe they served me the wrong liver to see if I knew the difference? Hmmm. Regardless, we spread it on the toasts and ate it.

On to the entrees there are a couple of items that I’ve been reading about….one blogger loves the burger stack, another loves the pimento cheese sandwich. I would never order a pimento cheese sandwich without a strong recommendation but I had to see what all the fuss was about. The components of this sandwich are roasted poblano, pimento cheese, bacon, and fried green tomato….sounds like a clusterfuck to me. Well, it wasn’t. It was kickass! The warmth of the roasted pepper, fried green tomato and toasted bread just barely melting the pimento cheese, served with a flavorful bowl of tomato bisque.

The burger stack was similarly drool worthy. A stack of three thin yet juicy patties with American cheese and housemade pickles, served with pretty good fries. I like my burgers thick, cooked medium, but since this is a stack of patties they are more medium-well to well. Not as good as The Nook’s awesome burger with smoked gouda and bacon but still worth a try.

Other plates include a flatiron steak, Chesapeake flounder and oyster stew. Four artisinal cheeses are offered as well. Executive chef Todd Ginsberg, formerly of Trois, stopped by our table. Unpretentious, a genuinely nice guy.

Dessert looked better than it tasted…..chocolate pudding with peanut butter whipped cream served in a Mason jar. The texture of the pudding was extremely dense, almost like fudge. It was just OK.

I really want Bocado to thrive but I fear the fierce competition in this hot neighborhood could suffocate it before it has a chance to find its identity.

887 Howell Mill Road 404-815-1399 www.bocadoatlanta.com

What could be better on a snowy winter’s night than rustic, organic comfort food? Miller Union delivers as the Westside’s newest darling. The much-anticipated project from Neal McCarthy, former Sotto Sotto manager, and Steven Satterfield, former sous chef at Watershed, serves up locally sourced veggies and proteins, giving the dishes an automatic Southern appeal, with a modern twist.

Of course, I had already checked out the menu in advance. Several magic words appeared…..rabbit, brussel sprouts, bread pudding. B agreed to join me despite the slick driving conditions. We each warmed up with a spicy glass of Maurodos Prima Tinto de Toro from Spain.

The restaurant is divided into several sections, each with a farmhouse decor and simple seating. Our table was one of four in a secluded alcove, with minimal embellishment and dark walls. Even on this wintery night, the place was packed.

Neal himself brought out a snack of feta cheese and three different varieties of radish to dip. B and I settled on three appetizers. Funny how we always agree on what to order! We both wanted to try the melted cabbage and mushroom toast and the Sapelo Island clams with bacon, fennel and parsley. I insisted, mostly due to the rave reviews, on ordering the farm egg baked in celery cream. Our server finally delivered some bread which we demolished while casually chatting about sex and plastic surgery.

Along came the melted cabbage and mushroom toast, which became unfortunately mushy due to its toppings. Nice flavor but no contest next to the clams. Bacon and fennel created a memorable combination. But damn! The egg baked in celery cream was some serious culinary genius. Served with crunchy toasted rustic bread for dipping, the yolk was soft and creamy, not runny. Don’t even think about not ordering it.

Rabbit. Need I say more? Slow braised and served atop wild mushrooms and grits. Slightly stringy and a bit gamey, B and I loved the braised bunny. I can’t imagine how much cream and butter were in the grits but suffice it to say, they were rich.

We also shared the White Oak beef ribeye, medium rare, which was juicy and tender. The creamed turnips provided a pleasantly bitter compliment paired with the sweet grilled vidalias. Plus a side of, you guessed it, brussels sprouts, which I believe were sauteed in bacon drippings.

More wine. Time for desserts. Yes, plural, because we had three! A rustic pear tart was simple and good, served with sugar and spice ice cream. But the aforementioned rum raisin bread pudding stole the show! Dense and rich. B wanted to try the trio of herb ice creams….thyme, rosemary, and sage. Interesting. I liked the sage the best but thought the other two were overpowering.

B and I made our ways home on the treacherous icy streets, stuffed with Satterfield’s comfort food, ready for a long winter’s nap.