Hot Dish Review

Two years ago….my how things have changed!

Have you noticed the new section of British foods at Publix? Kroger at Ansley has had these items for a while, hidden away amongst the Mexican and Thai shelves on the international aisle. Publix, however, in a stroke of marketing genius, has them featured on an end cap, making it virtually impossible to pass up!

I was looking for dessert for me and ST’s low-key St. Patrick’s Day celebration when I saw it. Spotted Dick. How could I say no?

Leave it to the Brits to put dessert in a can. The directions say to open one end, then the other and slide the product onto a plate. Cover with a bowl and microwave. It is basically bread pudding. The spots are raisins.

Served with whipped cream in a can (why mess with a good thing?), we both really liked it!

Gotta love a place with a name like Fig Jam. From the owners of Baraonda and Publik Draft House, this relatively new spot occupies the corner vacated by Baroni at Brookwood Station. This is where I celebrated my birthday….for the third time.

LC and I worked up our appetites early and couldn’t wait for our 8 o’clock reservation, instead arriving around 7:15 to find the place unusually quiet for a Saturday night. The space was warm and inviting as we settled into a private table in the back.

First things first….what to drink? A list of signature cocktails caught our attention. The Fig Jam made with vanilla infused organic vodka, fig preserve, lemon juice, maple syrup, and rhubarb bitters sounded irresistible. We also ordered the mini cheddar cheese sandwich, one of the nine small plates offered.

Served with an amazing apple chutney, we polished off the delectible little sammies lickety split, as well as our subtly sweet and deceptively strong cocktails. With no clear plan in mind, we moved on to one of the medium plates, mussles in coconut lemongrass curry broth.

When it comes to mussels, I’m spoiled. Noche used to have gigantic ones swimming in a very spicy chili broth with cilantro and hominy. These days, however, no one can hold a candle to chef Shane Devereux’ at Top Flr. Although their description is almost identicle to Fig Jam’s, Devereux adds a serious dose of heat. I request a spoon for the broth every time….seriously. So, although the mussels were very good indeed, the flavor of the broth at Fig Jam lacked the intensity that I love.

Enjoying grazing dish by dish, we decided on the lamb belly with bourbon maple sauce. Another medium plate, there was enough meat for two entrees, with pickled veggies providing a perfect contrast to the sweet glaze.

Having reviewed the menu prior to making the reservation, I was fixated on the duck confit entree. I know duck doesn’t make LC swoon, but he’s a good sport and will usually (and wisely) allow me to make the final decision where food is concerned. LC was, likewise, fixated on the flat breads. So, in an effort to compromise, we ordered both, despite the fact that we were already full. We also ordered two more of the Fig Jam cocktails.

The flatbread was literally half the size of the table and turned out to be the least impressive dish of the evening. It was like an enormous Saltine cracker topped with cubes of dry steak, a smattering of blue cheese, and not enough caramelized onions.

I was much more pleased with the duck confit, an appropriately crispy, fatty leg and thigh served over braised parsnips, with a drizzle of cherry au jus. Beets normally accompany the duck but I requested it without. As if that weren’t enough, we tried the Jefferson mac & cheese as a side, baked in a shallow dish with crunchy bread crumbs on top. Why Jefferson? I don’t know, but I do know that I would have enjoyed the duck and mac more if I had been hungry.

And what’s a birthday celebration without dessert! We barely made a dent in the bread pudding with raisins and cinnamon accented with a bourbon caramel sauce. It went home with us.

An abbreviated wine list shows depth and variety, with a nice selection by the glass. When you visit (as you should) just keep in the mind the portions are oversized. LC and I ordered enough for six and left in a food coma.

1745 Peachtree Street NE 404-724-9100

With his burger “boutique” Flip in full swing, it wasn’t much of a surprise to learn Richard Blais’ next concept was to elevate the lowly hot dog.

Although not the owner of HD1, he did consult on the menu to develop unusual combinations like the Kenturkey, a turkey sausage topped with tomato-pimento marmalade, mornay, bacon, and parmesan, and to reinvent the classics like the chili cheese dog.

I recently had the misfortune of having a birthday and wanted to placate myself with a leisurely and fattening lunch. My neighbor LG joined me as we ventured down the street to sample the weiners. The austere storefront leads to a modern industrial interior, with pops of color here and there. Vintage sodas like Nehi Orange and Cheerwine are nestled in ice by the register where guests place their orders.

So many dogs to choose from! Should I try the bratwurst or the lobster roll? Perhaps the Merguez, a lamb sausage topped with currants, yogurt, and minted cucumber. Nevermind. I hate mint and cucumber. LG considered trying Pigs in the Sheets, one of the alternatives to a dog, a puff pastry stuffed with curried pork and mango sauce, but instead opted for the Little Italy made with locally crafted fennel sausage, grilled radicchio, fontina and a drizzle of San Marzano ketchup.

Completely out of character, I ordered the Fried Chicken Dog, a breaded, deep-fried chicken weiner topped with sweet potato jam, hot sauce and mac ‘n’ cheese, which I requested on the side. Served on a hefty Holeman & Finch bun, I had to unhinge my jaw to take a bite. Crunchy, spicy, and sweet all in one bite, the dog was a winner, although it was pretty greasy.

LG’s dog was even better than mine. She paired it was the house salad of baby romaine, pears, and radish with blue cheese dressing…a nice size bowl for just $4. Other side offerings include waffle fries, homemade pickles, and pork ‘n’ beans with bacon crumbles.

I had to try the chocolate espresso bread pudding, after all, it was my birthday! LG had given up sugar for lent and wouldn’t help me eat it so I took half of it home. Again, a good size serving for just $3, and better than most fancy restaurant desserts that are twice the price.

664 N. Highland Avenue NE 404-805-1127

After a busy week of work and travel a casual dinner close to home was just what the doctor ordered. It had been a coon’s age since I’d eaten at Two Urban Licks. With so many new trendy spots opening each month, revisiting old favorites often ends up on the back burner.

LC and I walked into the dimly lit restaurant, which is cozy despite its cavernous interior, and took up residence at the first bar. We lucked out, as a cool little band was playing in the corner. The huge rotating rotisserie remains the focal point of the space, centrally located in the open kitchen.

Two is where chef Scott Serpas sharpened his skills prior to opening Serpas, one of Atlanta’s best restaurants. In fact, his signature salmon chips and lamb lollipops remain menu favorites.

I started off with a glass of red wine poured from one of their 42 stainless steel barrels, an ingenious one-of-a-kind gravity flow system. We proceeded to order several appetizers to share….the salmon chips, shaved calamari, black bean soup, and tacos.

The first dish to arrive was the salmon chips, four big potato chips each topped with short smoked salmon, chipotle cream cheese, capers, and red onions. I’ve eaten these many times and remember them being much better. On this visit, an overabundance of salmon, which tasted fishy, made the chips soggy. None of the other ingredients stood out resulting in a disappointing start.

The shaved calamari followed. A respectable yet standard fried version drizzled with a sweet a spicy sauce and wasabi cream. Black bean soup, garnished with a bit of cotija cheese, cilantro and jalalpeno creme fraiche was soothing and flavorful, but not very photogenic.

However, my favorite small plate was the tacos filled with tender Korean BBQ beef, crunchy kimchi, jack cheese, and cilantro. Only complaint is they sat in a puddle of juice, causing the crispy shells to become instantly soggy.

A few small plates leaves room for dessert! I couldn’t pass up the bread pudding, although it is described as “white chocolate cranberry”. I have no love for white chocolate, an oxymoron for a product made from cocoa butter, sugar, milk solids, and vanilla, lacking the part of the cocoa bean called the nib that gives chocolate its flavor. So it is not chocolate.

However, I had it on good authority that the stuff was undetectable in this dessert. The bread pudding was luscious and perfectly paired with excellent brown sugar ice cream that sat upon a mound of chocolate cookie crumbs for a textural extravaganza of crunchy, creamy, chewy deliciousness. We licked the plate.

820 Ralph McGill Blvd. 404-522-4622

On a recent grocery shopping trip at Publix, I spotted a new treat in the refrigerated section, next to the Jello Temptations. It was bread pudding from Kozy Shack, an odd little company that specializes in low-fat, sugar-free, and as their website says “wholesome” puddings and desserts.

I love bread pudding, especially when it is baked and crusty on top. Obviously the little plastic container from Kozy Shack would not be like homemade, but I was curious enough to buy the cinnamon raisin variety.

A few days later I was making an impromptu dinner for me and LC and served the bread pudding for dessert. Each individual 4 oz. serving has only 160 calories, 29 grams of carbs, 19 grams of sugar, 5 grams of protein, and 3.5 grams of fat. OK, not exactly healthy, but certainly better than a restaurant serving that could have more than 800 calories.

Using a knife, I ran around the edges of the plastic containers to release the pudding onto dessert plates, then heated them in the microwave briefly, just until warmed. I topped each serving with Reddi-wip….gotta keep it classy!

The verdict? The texture was mushier than I like, more pudding than bread. But the flavor was acceptable, something I would buy again if there were a dessert emergency!

The Sunday before Thanksgiving LC and I somehow ended up at Goin’ Coastal….again! We weren’t planning on eating actual dinner, maybe just a watermelon margarita and a crab cake, something light.

Little did we know that they do a Sunday supper. Diners choose an entree item and four sides, plus soup and dessert. It was so inexpensive, only $17, how could we say no?

We ordered the collard greens, cheese grits, grilled asparagus, and potatoes, but it was the jalapeno cornbread pudding that I was craving….so we got five sides.

Despite the season, they still had the watermelon margaritas. Sweet and tart with a jalapeno kick.

Tomato bisque came as a starter. It’s not my favorite soup. Their collards were bland as always, lacking that vinegary punch. Jalapeno cornbread pudding wasn’t as spicy as usual, but was satisfying nonetheless, as were the creamy grits with gouda. I hardly remember the asparagus and potatoes but I think LC liked them.

I was most impressed with the grilled swordfish, displaying a smoky flavor and meaty texture. Goin’ Coastal uses simple cooking methods that don’t overwhelm the delicate fish with sauces or spices, and a minimal amount of oil, making it not only sustainable, but healthy as well.
Not only did we have the savory cornbread pudding, but also a dense chunk of sweet bread pudding for dessert. Although we were both stuffed, we managed to take a few bites, dragging our spoons through the liquor-spiked vanilla sauce beneath it.

Driving by the restaurant twice a day, I noticed they are now offering a lobster dinner deal Monday through Wednesday for just $15! There may be time restrictions, like the Sunday supper’s 5pm-10pm window, but hell, it’s worth checking out. I believe they are doing the lobsters with all the fixin’s for pick-up on New Year’s Eve too. Now that sounds like a great way to celebrate!

1021 N. Highland Ave. 404-941-9117

After racing home from work to meet B Thursday evening, the two of us hopped in the HotDishMobile, dressed in our hot pants and halters, to check out my good friend BH’s party at his boutique.

A little free cheap red wine and catching up with old friends like RD and LB was fun, then we were on our way to our regular haunt, Top Flr, for a bite to eat and a lot more wine, of the not-so-cheap variety.

Our friend CL was outside with one of the owners, JM and his wife. I needed a drink so I sat at the bar inside and ordered a glass of red, a blend I recognized from my trip to the Priorat region of Spain.

The bar at Top Flr can be a communal experience. B was still outside visiting with JM and CL so I was left to chat with my neighbors, on their first date and things weren’t going too well. He gave me a bite of his duck….great flavor but the skin isn’t rendered, leaving a pretty thick layer of raw fat.

Having skipped a proper dinner, I was thinking I would order my usual mussels in coconut soy broth. There are perhaps only two or three dishes on Top Flr’s menu that I have not tried. Although Shane makes changes to dishes based upon seasonal availability of produce, much of it is static, which is quite alright with me. It’s nice to know you can count on the mussels or mac & cheese when the craving strikes.

On Thursday, however, there were a couple of new items, one of them taken straight out of my culinary wet dream….duck confit, stewed figs, and frissee. Shut the f*ck up! I decided to try the other new dish as well, quinoa with tomatoes. The salad was awesome but the quinoa was dry and a little boring, most of it eaten by the crazy dude next to me….with his fingers.

About that time B checked out. A chick named Anna took her seat to my left and we eventually decided to split a dessert, bread pudding with pan-fried bananas. I’m not a fan of banana desserts so the fruit was thankfully not incorporated into the pudding itself, but rather, served on the side.

Next up, three guys from Chicago in town for business. The concierge at The Georgian Terrace recommended Top Flr….a surprising response given the restaurant’s underground vibe. On my second glass of wine, I was more than happy to offer my opinion on what they should order to eat, despite the fact that they had already eaten dinner.

White bean hummus, the mussels, and duck confit pizza are three of Top Flr’s standout dishes. The guys ordered all three, and two of the pizzas.

Drizzled with chili oil and served with crisped pita, the hummus is fragrant and slightly spicy. A tiny dish of olives on the side adds a salty note. The mussels rest in a dreamy broth, redolent of coconut milk, soy, and fresh cilantro. A huge chunk of crusty bread comes alongside for dunking. Duck confit, applewood smoked bacon, portobello mushrooms, pesto, and gooey melted cheese top a flavorful hand-tossed pizza crust….absolute comfort food.

Seated in the middle of the group, I gleefully helped myself to some of everything. About half of one of the pizzas ended up going home with me, making a scrumptious lunch the next day.

And for dinner I would be attending a Dinner Party at the guy’s potential new space, with their new chef! More on that tomorrow….

Opening a fine dining restaurant during the worst of economic times doesn’t sound like a smart business move, but somehow Pacci has survived and thrived. Perhaps it’s chef Keira Moritz who has gained notoriety and respect among her mostly male peers. Maybe its location in one of several new, trendy midtown hotels brings it the automatic business that hotel restaurants rely on, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner to guests.

Or, it could be that it simply kicks ass. It is fairly common knowledge that I rarely eat Italian food. But I acquiesed on this assignment for AFD because I liked that a successful female chef was running the show.

ST and I valeted the HotDishmobile last Friday and walked in to Pacci. There was Geno! How fabulous, I hadn’t seen him since his days at Spice Market. We sat newlywed style on a banquette with a view of the expansive and dark dining room, lit by sets of enormous globes that hung from the high ceiling, shaded by long black fringe. The burgundy velvet and wood tones of the decor are puncuated by light blue and cream jacquard armchairs, one per table. Elegant.

Geno started us out with a couple of specialty bellinis, one with vanilla liqueur and the other with passion fruit. Then he brought out an amuse bouche of butter lettuce with seafood salad, light and fun.

After some discussion, Geno recommended a wine flight for me….a trio of 2007 pinot noirs from Sequana Vineyard, each with a distinct character. I ended up ordering another glass or two of the spicy Dutton Ranch.

The kobe beef carpacio was our first course, dressed with capers, tapenade, and baby arugula. Their bread service was an assortment of crispy wafers, focaccia, and cracker-like bread sticks. Problem with that is, I love authentic Italian bread and would prefer to have that at an Italian restaurant, with sweet butter please.

For our second course ST chose the lobster and butternut squash bisque with creme fraiche. Smooth and creamy, I don’t recall any chunks of lobster but the flavor was rich, reminiscent of she crab soup.

Naturally, I ordered the duck confit. A perfect example of this cooking method, the meat was succulent, falling of the bones, while the skin was super crispy. Served over soft polenta with bits of gorgonzola and blackberry marmalade, it sounds like a foolproof combination. But somehow, the four main components were not integrated. I found the gorgonzola unnecessary and while I do love a sweet accompaniment to duck, perhaps the dish would have been even better with mascerated blackberries. Nevertheless, it was damn awesome.

Eating our way down the menu, next came pastas. ST tried the shrimp fettucini with creamy pancetta sauce, Spring peas, and a soft fried egg on top, a.k.a carbonara. Rich, rich, and delicious. I ordered the sweet potato ravioli (how predictable!). Four raviolis came topped with gorgonzola and speck with brown butter. Rich, rich, and delicious.

More? Yes. The pork chop with fennel, roasted yam, and pomegranate-basil pesto had my name written all over it. One of the best chops I have had in recent memory, very tender. Pesto provided a little Italian flavor, but it was the roasted yams, sliced into thin disks with crispy caramelized edges that were amazing!

ST got the dry aged New York strip, medium, with a side of cannellini beans. Big steak. Good steak. Guess what we had for breakfast….steak and eggs.

Desserts include the quintessential Italian tiramisu and panna cotta, but we opted for the straightforward sweets, chocolate strata and rum bread pudding. I cannot say no to bread pudding! Pastry chef Elizabeth Matheson’s version is baked in its own small casserole dish topped with caramel and a little dollop of vanilla gelato. Personally, I would drizzle the caramel on the hot pudding so it would remain gooey rather than on the cold ice cream, but no matter, it was fabulous. ST’s chocolate strata was a huge slice of chocolate cake layered with chocolate mousse, served with vanilla gelato. Pretty presentation, pretty chocolately.

We were stuffed! Despite a couple of minor complaints, Pacci made a great impression on both of us.

866 West Peachtree Street NW 678-412-2402

My birthday dinner at Woodfire Grill was Thursday night, rescheduled from last week since B was out of town. Sexy Argentinian artist MS and his partner S joined us.

(Sensitive readers beware, this post will be full of cursewords and italics!)

This was my first visit to the restaurant since the interior re-do. We didn’t like it. A place called Woodfire Grill should be warm and cozy.

Our evening got off to a frenetic start as B and I were running late to our already late reservation. Who cares, I looked fabulous in my outfit, entirely from Target! Earrings, necklace, scarf, and dress (OK, it was Anna Sui for Target).

It was my birthday dinner and I wanted a drink! Our server greeted us and explained the menu options available….3 course, 5 course, chef’s choice, vegetarian, pescitarian, with or without wine pairings, or a la carte. TMI. S was allergic to him. He recommended a half bottle of Veuve then ran off. When he finally returned we ordered the champagne to toast my birthday.

Did I mention it was my birthday? Yes, I am the bitch that made a special request for my birthday. I wanted foie gras, damn it! They often have it on the menu at Woodfire, just never when I’m there, so it wasn’t an insane request. It wasn’t like I was asking for filet mignon at McDonald’s.

Also, I was excited to meet Kevin Gillespie. His performance on last season’s Top Chef won him many fans and (I believe) saved the restaurant’s life. I had confirmed with the staff that he would be there, although I knew he was possibly flying out for a special event. He was not there.

But B did confirm they would have foie gras! Fabulous. I didn’t think it was necessary to explain that it should have a sweet accompaniment, like fig and pear compote. Or mascerated berries. Or candied kumquats. Everyone knows that. Everyone! Unfortunately, it was served simply on top of the standard (and might I say inexplicable) grease soaked toast. I’ve never understood why a rich meat like foie gras would be served with greasy toast but it happens more often than not. I would have loved some watercress or frissee, maybe a drizzle of balsamic reduction and a sweet component. I usually toss aside the toast but had nothing else to eat with the foie gras this time (the flavorless smudge of something on the plate was dried so it doesn’t count). On the bright side, it was seared perfectly (although MS prefers his cool in the center).

Quail or duck? I asked our server which had the cripier skin. Neither, they were skinless. What the f*ck, why skin a d*ck? Or grill a quail without skin? Maybe he was trying to deter me from ordering either as it was late and they could have just run out. He recommended the sturgeon to B rather than the quail. I ordered the pork tenderloin. The menu description said it came with roasted root vegetables, Coca-Cola glazed country ham, and sweet potato sauce. This was all true, but the veggies and ham were microscopic. Why mention a dish is served with something if one has to search for it on the plate? The meat was dry dry dry.

B liked her fish. I tried it. No complaints. MS ordered the Maine peekytoe crab salad appetizer as his main. S had it as a starter and it too was microscopic. Big plate, small food. S ordered the black trumpet mushroom risotto as his second course, a really tasty dish. His beef strip loin, however, was the best dish of the trio of entrees at our table. Again, I didn’t see anything on the plate except the meat.

Thankfully, B ordered the brussels sprouts as a side. Roasted with sweet herbs and tossed with a smoked onion vinaigrette. They were amazing! The best in town.

B and I followed our champagne with a glass of red. The boys were having margaritas. We talked about art, we talked about Rio. MS entertained us with his riveting tale of working out on the beach at Ipanema, stumbling upon a tarp that concealed a dead body!

Ah, mortality. Birthday cake. Or, rather, birthday chocolate bread pudding. It should have been orgasmic, like the pork and the foie gras should have been, but again, just didn’t wow me. The best part was the chocolate chip cherry ice cream on top, the scoop no bigger than a walnut. I blew out my candle and made a wish (for more f*cking ice cream!)

I know Kevin Gillespie is kickass. So why am I always disappointed with Woodfire Grill?

1782 Cheshire Bridge Road 404-347-9055

Generally, I travel with a companion. However, meeting AD in Brazil last week, I was flying solo out of Terminal T. In search of an open currency exchange at Hartsfield-Jackson, I ended up at Terminal E (you know, E as in Edward. I think it would be so much better if it was E as in euphemism, but I also think Terminal T should be T as in tsunami).

Anyway, there I was….one chick, flying South. There was indeed a currency exchange on Terminal E, but they were out of Brazilian Reals. Directly across from the exchange was One Flew South, our airport’s new fine dining restaurant. I was supposed to review it for AFD when it opened last year but I had, ironically, flown South to Spain.

I love irony so I was compelled to dine there, taking a seat at the bar where Norm the bartender took care of me. The cocktail list was as creative as any chic spot in Atlanta, old-fashioned and travel oriented drinks. Jets to Brazil? Oh my God, how could I not order it! Made with cachaca, lime, parfait amour, and rhubarb bitters, I expected it to be a bit sweeter, like a caipirinha. But it was strong, a little funky tasting (the bitters perhaps).

One Flew South also has a sushi bar with a selection of rolls, nigiri, sashimi, and sakes to pair with the fish. Perhaps if I was going to Tokyo….

An impressive wine list includes Turley zin and Heitz cab. The space is sleek, modern, and decidedly unairportish.

Like a mind-reader, Norm recommended the very dishes I had my eye on. The theme? Pork. I started with the Benton’s bacon and Sweet Grass Dairy goat cheese salad that featured the herbie cheese spread beneath frisee (my favorite!) dressed with pink peppercorn vinaigrette. Thick, chewy slices of the bacon were divine. Basil poached pears added a sweet note to the salad.

I placed my salad and entree order at the same time, in awe at the speed at which the kitchen expedited orders for their customers, each one a stressed-out traveler with a plane to catch. Thyme roasted pork belly was crispy, fatty, and awesome, lightened up with a black-eyed pea and arugula salad, a smear of parsnip puree, and a touch of blackberry-onion marmalade. Norm suggested an Anchor Steam to follow my cocktail. Smart move.

The whole menu was intrigueing, from the pecan dusted scallops with sweet potato and cranberry hash appetizer (how did I resist that?) to the 1/2 pound Kobe burger with five spice fries. Both not a bargain at $16. The guy next to me didn’t eat his fries. They looked perfect….I almost reached over and grabbed them before they hit the bin, what a waste.

Breast of duck and portabella ravioli is just $22, while my pork belly came in at a reasonable $18.

Naturally, I could not resist the bread pudding. The drinks, and Norm, convinced me I had plenty of time! How about a Brooklyn Chocolate Stout to go with dessert? Yes, please! Alas, I didn’t love it. Made as a loaf, then sliced, I prefer my bread pudding baked with crunchy bits of bread here and there. Some creme fraiche would have helped.

Little did I know what was in store for me in the coming days, or even the coming hours. Find out what happens in the next installment of “Romancing Rio”.