Hot Dish Review

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Quite some time ago, I signed up for email alerts from PushStart Kitchen. Chef Zach Meloy and his wife Cristina create intimate dinner parties in a rustic space at The Goat Farm two or three evenings a week. Each menu is unique, featuring veggies one week, Latin flavors the next, or a mad combo of both.

The menu sent out last week was particularly intriguing, with words like bacon and coffee catching my attention. I responded, albeit not right away, only to find out the dinner for Sunday was fully booked. However, a few days later I received a last minute email from Cristina saying there had been a cancellation. Were we still interested? Indeed!

LC joined me on our first visit to the art complex on the West side known as The Goat Farm. Upon arrival, we were met in the parking lot and escorted to the space upstairs where Zach was preparing an appetizer of smoked ham on a stick, dotted with BBQ sauce, and mixing some sweet yet deceptively strong rum cocktails with black tea and ginger.

We mingled with our fellow diners to discover most of them had attended PushStart several times, each one raving about the intimate dining experience and the amazing food. After a couple of cocktails, we were seated at the 100 year old table, a thickly varnished repurposed door, set for sixteen guests.

Inspired by his cravings when hungover, chef Meloy started us off with chewy yet crispy hunter’s bacon lardon. It was paired with neat squares of dense and creamy bread pudding, arugula, and slices of pickled Asian pear, all resting on a generous drizzle of smoked maple syrup. Manchego cheese had been made into a foam which was piped onto each plate. Each component was presented somewhat individually, representing a variety of textures and flavors. An oaky chardonnay was a tricky pairing (perhaps only because I dislike chardonnay). The chatter at the table suddenly ceased as we all became mesmerized by our perfectly balanced plates.

Meloy’s main course was a flank steak served with a soft cooked egg made in his countertop sous vide machine. Introducing familiar Latin flavors, a heavy smudge of black bean puree decorated the plate, along with pickled tomatillo halves and small orbs of crispy masa. He paced around the table as we broke our eggs, anxious to confirm that the yolks remained soft. Success! The tartness of the pickled tomatillos and the earthy corn flavor of the masa once again showed the chef’s ability to compose a perfectly balanced plate. A spicy, earthy cab was an excellent pairing.

Dessert was served in large white bowls, two doughnuts sprinkled with sugar mixed with a bit of ancho chili powder for a surprising but pleasant kick. A mound of malted milk balls were beneath them, all atop a drizzle of bourbon gel. They would have been excellent just like that, but the chef’s assistant came around with a pitcher of cold coffee custard that she elegantly poured into each bowl, completing the dish. Ridiculously awesome. How about some champagne with that? Yes, please.

The finale was a strong after dinner cordial and a dish of chewy candies made by Cristina, who was busy caring for their new baby.

Naturally, discussion at the table centered around food, and as a food writer, my fellow diners were eager to know how I rated this meal. To be honest, it was exquisite, definitely in my top ten meals of all time. And for a mere $60 suggested donation per diner, a bargain as well.

Like Dinner Party Atlanta which morphed into a full-blown restaurant, The Lawrence, and Spice Route that became the brick-and-mortar Cardamom Hill, the Meloys are on the hunt for a space, hoping to turn PushStart Kitchen into the restaurant of their dreams. But for now, it’s one dinner at a time.

The Goat Farm is located at 1200 Foster Street NW

As a food writer, sometimes I want to go “off the clock” so to speak. For instance, when LC and I visit our neighborhood favorite Goin’ Coastal, often I just eat without taking photos or making notes. Not to mention, I’ve written a magazine article and numerous blog posts about the Virginia Highlands location (the original is in Canton) of this sustainable seafood operation since it opened a couple of years ago. But now it’s been a while and I feel like they deserve some cudos!

After a long day at work, LC will often pick up a takeout order or we’ll meet and dine at the bar, chatting with chef and partner Seth Hendricks. Meanwhile, Joey mixes a mean martini for my sweetie….he likes ‘em a little dirty with blue cheese stuffed olives. Our standard order is a pound of colossal steamed shrimp and a couple of sides including their jalapeno cornbread pudding, served piping hot in its own little casserole dish. On occasion we splurge on the decadent lobster mac, full of succulent lobster claws.

Our recent visit was on a Wednesday when Goin’ Coastal offers a dozen oysters for $5 and the bar was full, so we sat at the hightop by the window, directly in front of the hostess stand (poor girl, we talked to her the whole time). This perspective provided a fresh view of the restaurant’s modern nautical decor, with fresh blue walls framing black and white photos of fishermen with their catch of the day. Next to the photos you’ll find a chalkboard menu with Goin’ Coastal’s catch of the day, prepared to your liking.

We ordered our regular shrimp and sides combo, including a house salad for LC. Huge, wild-caught shrimp were steamed and perfectly seasoned. The cornbread pudding was particularly custardy, but extra spicy.

Our server gathered our empty plates and offered a list of desserts. Key lime pie….no. Cheesecake….no. LC’s got quite a sweet tooth and I have a weakness for bread pudding so when she said chocolate bread pudding, we couldn’t say no. It was served with homemade whipped cream that melted down the warm pudding’s crunchy and chewy crust….even better than I imagined.

The service at Goin’ Coastal is always welcoming and you can count on a great meal….and isn’t that what neighborhood favorites are all about?

1021 Virginia Avenue NE 404-941-9117

Anticipation. Sure, it’s supposed to make whatever you’re waiting for even better when you finally get it, or fuel your inevitable disappointment, as the case may be. I didn’t intend to wait this long to dine at Cardamom Hill, Chef Asha Gomez’ brick and mortar restaurant modeled after her exclusive Spice Route Supper Club, especially considering the hype surrounding her Kerala Indian cuisine, including a national write-up in a recent issue of Food and Wine Magazine.

LC and I arrived two days late for our Valentine’s Day dinner seeing as he was deathly ill on the day itself. The door of the small space in a strip shopping center opens by the restaurant’s bar while the main dining room is divided by a central partition. Decor is rather plain but I was there for the food, super-excited to taste what everyone was talking about. We started off with drinks, a specialty cocktail for him, a glass of red wine for me.

Although it is the dish I have been waiting to try since I first read Cardamom Hill’s menu, I was talked out of ordering the duck and plantain croquettes by LC for practical reasons. He was right. I was ordering the duck entree and he wasn’t very hungry, so we would order three other appetizers instead and share the duck.

Among the three small plates we ordered was my old favorite, pork vindaloo. Easily the spiciest of the Indian sauces, one usually finds it dumbed down for us Americans. However, Gomez gives us an authentic fiery version and serves it with a rice-coconut crepe. Although the menu says the meat is a shoulder cut, I could have sworn it was pork belly. Cubes of fat mingled with the tender meat, surprising me with their unappetizing texture. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the deep, spicy flavor.

LC chose the curry chicken pastries, two turnovers filled with fragrant minced curried chicken then baked crisp. Spiced with cumin, corriander, and curry powder, they were satisfying but not particularly noteworthy. We agreed on a third dish, the short rib with sweet potato, mainly because I love sweet potatoes.

Modernizing the idea of the traditional thali, Gomez composes some dishes on small square white plates set on long wooden boards, each displaying a separate ingredient. This is how the short rib was presented, spiced pulled rib meat in one dish, two (yes, only two) slices of cardamom scented sweet potato in the center, and arugula with a punchy citrus vinaigrette in the third dish, providing a wonderful acid contrast to the sweet and spicy flavors.

I was horrified when my crispy duck leg arrived, completely covered in the clove pepper sauce mentioned on the menu. Even worse was that the sauce was room temperature. I wonder if the skin of the duck was crispy before it was drowned in the sauce…it almost made me cry. Another issue was my request to substitute the confit potatoes with sweet potatoes, to which I was told they couldn’t do it. I can’t imagine why not since the potatoes were plated separately and could have easily been switched. A fruit chutney heavy on ginger paired well with the duck which was actually delicious after I got past the sauce.

Despite feeling a little better than on Valentine’s Day, LC didn’t have enough energy for dessert, so I ordered the mango bread pudding to go. It was beautifully presented in a black container and devoured immediately when we got home. Dense and not too sweet, the individually baked pudding was drizzled with a little simple syrup and served with fresh fruit and a mango dipping sauce.

I enjoyed most of the dishes at Cardamom Hill but left wondering what all the hoopla was about. Should we have tried the Kerala fried chicken that is a specialty there? I missed the traditional trappings of Indian food like naan with raita, authentic or not.

1700 Northside Drive 404-549-7012

When the 2.2 mile drive to 4th & Swift was deemed too far by LC, we chose a restaurant even closer to my place, Murphy’s, a veteran of Atlanta’s dining scene yet practically a stranger to me. In fact, my only memory of eating there was one unimpressive brunch. There were, however, multiple occassions that I stopped by the wine shop, back when I could afford to invest in a really good bottle.

It was around 8:30pm on a Friday and we didn’t have a reservation. The wait would be about 45 minutes, so we hovered near the bar hoping for two seats to open up, which happened almost immediately. But the bar staff of two was in the weeds, responsible for making cocktails for the entire restaurant as well as for those of us at the bar.

Noting our brief window of opportunity, I ordered both a half glass of prosecco and another of syrah to follow. LC ordered a tasty cocktail made with grapefruit and tequila. Plus, we had decided to try a cup of chicken tortilla soup and the three cheese flatbread.

When the cup of soup arrived, I was surprised that it had a creamy tomato base. Large squares of fried tortilla provided an awesome crunch factor paired with tender chunks of chicken and creamy slices of avocado. Fresh cilantro added the finishing touch to the zesty soup.

The crispy flatbread was the size of a small pizza. Beneath the blanket of dressed arugula, sweet mission figs, salty prosciutto, and sweet caramelized onions met with melted parmasan and romano (not sure what the third cheese was). We thoroughly enjoyed it.

The bar area suddenly cleared and we continued with dinner in a more tranquil setting, ordering the shrimp and grits entree with a side of local green beans. There was no mention of tomato in the description of the shrimp and grits, but when it arrived, the grits were encircled by what turned out to be a slightly spicy salsa. I really dislike tomato with seafood of any kind, so I would have preferred it without the salsa, but LC enjoyed it. The plump shrimps were accented by thin slices of andouille sausage, and an unnecessary poached egg. Green beans were oily and somewhat undercooked.

There is a dessert counter next to the hostess stand with a chalk board listing Murphy’s sweet offerings. I had already decided to have the apple bread pudding before we even discussed eating anything savory. I saved room for it and another half glass of Bell syrah.

Served in a tiny ramekin, cubes of apple bread with crusty edges emerged from the creamy pudding studded with raisins. A scoop of pistachio ice cream sat upon a bed of crunchy graham cracker crumbs, providing a array of textures and temperatures. Loved it!

On our way out we noticed a cookie jar that operates on the honor system, so we took a couple and left some cash, enjoying the chewy cookies as we strolled to the car. Murphy’s is a great neighborhood spot with a warm and inviting atmosphere, sure to continue to dominate the brunch scene.

997 Virginia Avenue NE 404-872-0909

Walking into the dimly lit restaurant it was instantly clear. Underground cool, accidentally refined, The Lawrence epitomizes the style of its owners Darren Carr (of Top Flr, Sound Table, and Dinner Party Atlanta) and Patrick La Bouff (Dinner Party Atlanta).

Having already popped the cork on a bottle of Veuve at home, LC and I continued our 2nd anniversary celebration with a glass of prosecco as we settled into a table by the window. There are no signs that the space once housed Cuerno, then Lupe. Slate and wood dominate, with chalkboard menus decorating the inviting bar.

Executive chef Shane Devereux creates dishes that sound both intriguing and weird, but knowing his work from Top Flr, Sound Table, and Dinner Party, he rarely disappoints. Having said that, I hesitatingly ordered the fried green tomatoes to start. You know how I feel about fried green tomatoes. The plate arrived with three big slices decorated with delicate pickled baby shrimp and watercress. Beneath the tomatoes was a heavy, spicy sauce chef described as a “deviled gribiche”. To the side was a poached quail egg in a little pool of a different, more subtle sauce. Despite the somewhat cumbersome breading, the combination of flavors and textures worked.

A bowl of littleneck clams were next, in an intricate broth flavored with serrano ham, pickled scallions, roasted cherry tomatoes, parsley, thyme, and jalapenos. LC loved ‘em. I asked Patrick for a taste of the golden rice porridge so he delivered a bowl, adorned with feta and baby rye croutons. I thought I tasted oregano, but the menu says marjoram….perhaps there’s a bit of each?

Which pork dish should we try, the belly or the cheeks? I chose the smaller plate of braised pork belly on cornbread puree with smoked sweet tea jus, garnished with crispy julienned pig ear. LC swore he wouldn’t try the pig ears but ended up enjoying them by accident.

I would never have ordered the fish ‘n’ chip salad but the couple dining next to us were fawning over it, nearly orgasmic. The menu description sounds disjointed: trout, lady pea, malt, pickled ramp tartar, fingerlings. What the f*ck? It’s the unexpected handling of each ingredient that make create the wow factor here. For instance, the fingerling potatoes are cut into strings, providing a crispy topping to the fried strips of trout and tender peas.

A textural theme had emerged throughout our meal, each dish (except the clams) had a crunchy element. Some food critics in Atlanta seem to have an issue with this, but I applaud Devereux’s creativity and attention to detail.

For the finale, I was thrilled to see pecan bread pudding with dried cherries on the menu. I’m a self-proclaimed bread pudding expert and found this to be the best I’ve had in years, full of plump, chewy cherries….a sweet ending to a sweet evening.

905 Juniper 404-961-7177

Two years ago….my how things have changed!

Have you noticed the new section of British foods at Publix? Kroger at Ansley has had these items for a while, hidden away amongst the Mexican and Thai shelves on the international aisle. Publix, however, in a stroke of marketing genius, has them featured on an end cap, making it virtually impossible to pass up!

I was looking for dessert for me and ST’s low-key St. Patrick’s Day celebration when I saw it. Spotted Dick. How could I say no?

Leave it to the Brits to put dessert in a can. The directions say to open one end, then the other and slide the product onto a plate. Cover with a bowl and microwave. It is basically bread pudding. The spots are raisins.

Served with whipped cream in a can (why mess with a good thing?), we both really liked it!

Gotta love a place with a name like Fig Jam. From the owners of Baraonda and Publik Draft House, this relatively new spot occupies the corner vacated by Baroni at Brookwood Station. This is where I celebrated my birthday….for the third time.

LC and I worked up our appetites early and couldn’t wait for our 8 o’clock reservation, instead arriving around 7:15 to find the place unusually quiet for a Saturday night. The space was warm and inviting as we settled into a private table in the back.

First things first….what to drink? A list of signature cocktails caught our attention. The Fig Jam made with vanilla infused organic vodka, fig preserve, lemon juice, maple syrup, and rhubarb bitters sounded irresistible. We also ordered the mini cheddar cheese sandwich, one of the nine small plates offered.

Served with an amazing apple chutney, we polished off the delectible little sammies lickety split, as well as our subtly sweet and deceptively strong cocktails. With no clear plan in mind, we moved on to one of the medium plates, mussles in coconut lemongrass curry broth.

When it comes to mussels, I’m spoiled. Noche used to have gigantic ones swimming in a very spicy chili broth with cilantro and hominy. These days, however, no one can hold a candle to chef Shane Devereux’ at Top Flr. Although their description is almost identicle to Fig Jam’s, Devereux adds a serious dose of heat. I request a spoon for the broth every time….seriously. So, although the mussels were very good indeed, the flavor of the broth at Fig Jam lacked the intensity that I love.

Enjoying grazing dish by dish, we decided on the lamb belly with bourbon maple sauce. Another medium plate, there was enough meat for two entrees, with pickled veggies providing a perfect contrast to the sweet glaze.

Having reviewed the menu prior to making the reservation, I was fixated on the duck confit entree. I know duck doesn’t make LC swoon, but he’s a good sport and will usually (and wisely) allow me to make the final decision where food is concerned. LC was, likewise, fixated on the flat breads. So, in an effort to compromise, we ordered both, despite the fact that we were already full. We also ordered two more of the Fig Jam cocktails.

The flatbread was literally half the size of the table and turned out to be the least impressive dish of the evening. It was like an enormous Saltine cracker topped with cubes of dry steak, a smattering of blue cheese, and not enough caramelized onions.

I was much more pleased with the duck confit, an appropriately crispy, fatty leg and thigh served over braised parsnips, with a drizzle of cherry au jus. Beets normally accompany the duck but I requested it without. As if that weren’t enough, we tried the Jefferson mac & cheese as a side, baked in a shallow dish with crunchy bread crumbs on top. Why Jefferson? I don’t know, but I do know that I would have enjoyed the duck and mac more if I had been hungry.

And what’s a birthday celebration without dessert! We barely made a dent in the bread pudding with raisins and cinnamon accented with a bourbon caramel sauce. It went home with us.

An abbreviated wine list shows depth and variety, with a nice selection by the glass. When you visit (as you should) just keep in the mind the portions are oversized. LC and I ordered enough for six and left in a food coma.

1745 Peachtree Street NE 404-724-9100

With his burger “boutique” Flip in full swing, it wasn’t much of a surprise to learn Richard Blais’ next concept was to elevate the lowly hot dog.

Although not the owner of HD1, he did consult on the menu to develop unusual combinations like the Kenturkey, a turkey sausage topped with tomato-pimento marmalade, mornay, bacon, and parmesan, and to reinvent the classics like the chili cheese dog.

I recently had the misfortune of having a birthday and wanted to placate myself with a leisurely and fattening lunch. My neighbor LG joined me as we ventured down the street to sample the weiners. The austere storefront leads to a modern industrial interior, with pops of color here and there. Vintage sodas like Nehi Orange and Cheerwine are nestled in ice by the register where guests place their orders.

So many dogs to choose from! Should I try the bratwurst or the lobster roll? Perhaps the Merguez, a lamb sausage topped with currants, yogurt, and minted cucumber. Nevermind. I hate mint and cucumber. LG considered trying Pigs in the Sheets, one of the alternatives to a dog, a puff pastry stuffed with curried pork and mango sauce, but instead opted for the Little Italy made with locally crafted fennel sausage, grilled radicchio, fontina and a drizzle of San Marzano ketchup.

Completely out of character, I ordered the Fried Chicken Dog, a breaded, deep-fried chicken weiner topped with sweet potato jam, hot sauce and mac ‘n’ cheese, which I requested on the side. Served on a hefty Holeman & Finch bun, I had to unhinge my jaw to take a bite. Crunchy, spicy, and sweet all in one bite, the dog was a winner, although it was pretty greasy.

LG’s dog was even better than mine. She paired it was the house salad of baby romaine, pears, and radish with blue cheese dressing…a nice size bowl for just $4. Other side offerings include waffle fries, homemade pickles, and pork ‘n’ beans with bacon crumbles.

I had to try the chocolate espresso bread pudding, after all, it was my birthday! LG had given up sugar for lent and wouldn’t help me eat it so I took half of it home. Again, a good size serving for just $3, and better than most fancy restaurant desserts that are twice the price.

664 N. Highland Avenue NE 404-805-1127

After a busy week of work and travel a casual dinner close to home was just what the doctor ordered. It had been a coon’s age since I’d eaten at Two Urban Licks. With so many new trendy spots opening each month, revisiting old favorites often ends up on the back burner.

LC and I walked into the dimly lit restaurant, which is cozy despite its cavernous interior, and took up residence at the first bar. We lucked out, as a cool little band was playing in the corner. The huge rotating rotisserie remains the focal point of the space, centrally located in the open kitchen.

Two is where chef Scott Serpas sharpened his skills prior to opening Serpas, one of Atlanta’s best restaurants. In fact, his signature salmon chips and lamb lollipops remain menu favorites.

I started off with a glass of red wine poured from one of their 42 stainless steel barrels, an ingenious one-of-a-kind gravity flow system. We proceeded to order several appetizers to share….the salmon chips, shaved calamari, black bean soup, and tacos.

The first dish to arrive was the salmon chips, four big potato chips each topped with short smoked salmon, chipotle cream cheese, capers, and red onions. I’ve eaten these many times and remember them being much better. On this visit, an overabundance of salmon, which tasted fishy, made the chips soggy. None of the other ingredients stood out resulting in a disappointing start.

The shaved calamari followed. A respectable yet standard fried version drizzled with a sweet a spicy sauce and wasabi cream. Black bean soup, garnished with a bit of cotija cheese, cilantro and jalalpeno creme fraiche was soothing and flavorful, but not very photogenic.

However, my favorite small plate was the tacos filled with tender Korean BBQ beef, crunchy kimchi, jack cheese, and cilantro. Only complaint is they sat in a puddle of juice, causing the crispy shells to become instantly soggy.

A few small plates leaves room for dessert! I couldn’t pass up the bread pudding, although it is described as “white chocolate cranberry”. I have no love for white chocolate, an oxymoron for a product made from cocoa butter, sugar, milk solids, and vanilla, lacking the part of the cocoa bean called the nib that gives chocolate its flavor. So it is not chocolate.

However, I had it on good authority that the stuff was undetectable in this dessert. The bread pudding was luscious and perfectly paired with excellent brown sugar ice cream that sat upon a mound of chocolate cookie crumbs for a textural extravaganza of crunchy, creamy, chewy deliciousness. We licked the plate.

820 Ralph McGill Blvd. 404-522-4622

On a recent grocery shopping trip at Publix, I spotted a new treat in the refrigerated section, next to the Jello Temptations. It was bread pudding from Kozy Shack, an odd little company that specializes in low-fat, sugar-free, and as their website says “wholesome” puddings and desserts.

I love bread pudding, especially when it is baked and crusty on top. Obviously the little plastic container from Kozy Shack would not be like homemade, but I was curious enough to buy the cinnamon raisin variety.

A few days later I was making an impromptu dinner for me and LC and served the bread pudding for dessert. Each individual 4 oz. serving has only 160 calories, 29 grams of carbs, 19 grams of sugar, 5 grams of protein, and 3.5 grams of fat. OK, not exactly healthy, but certainly better than a restaurant serving that could have more than 800 calories.

Using a knife, I ran around the edges of the plastic containers to release the pudding onto dessert plates, then heated them in the microwave briefly, just until warmed. I topped each serving with Reddi-wip….gotta keep it classy!

The verdict? The texture was mushier than I like, more pudding than bread. But the flavor was acceptable, something I would buy again if there were a dessert emergency!