Hot Dish Review

When it comes to world cuisine, Irish is quite likely the one I crave the least. Not a fan of corned beef or fish ‘n’ chips. I’ve never been tempted to try shepherd’s pie or Irish stew. So, when I was asked to write about Brookhaven’s new Irish pub, Olde Blind Dog, I wasn’t drooling like one.

Like stepping into an Celtic theme park, Olde Blind Dog’s owners spared no expense with the decor, importing antique mirrors and intricately carved wood accents from Europe, and creating kitschy elements like windows with faux plants, and “sidewalks” complete with street signs. The centerpiece is a multi-level seating area, with secluded booths called “snugs”, effectively dividing the boisterous bar from the cozy little tables, some of them nestled beneath the stairs, giving guests a wee bit of privacy. BB likened it to Fado on steroids….LOL.

Someone involved in this operation is a marketing genius. The menu is designed to look like an old newspaper called the Daily Dog, featuring the story of the old blind dog himself. A good bit of wit is used to describe the authentic Irish dishes, as well as some more unusual selections like the Celtic Curry.

On the rare occassion I go to an Irish pub, I invariably have an Irish car bomb, a half pint of Guinness with a shot of Jameson’s and Bailey’s dropped in. It has a rich, chocolately flavor. That’s how LC and I started our visit, then promptly ordered a sampling of their best-selling appetizers: tabasco fried pickles, ale and cheddar dip, and a fish slider.

The staff is so well-trained it was impossible to know the place had only been open a week. Service was brisk and enthusiastic. Our awesome server, Martin, said it was quite a challenge to separate the draught line for the Guinness from the other beers, as it was necessary to serve it at 42 degrees rather than the standard American 38 degrees like the other selections. I was impressed. Equally impressive is the fact they make their corned beef in house daily, as well as all of their desserts. Fries and chips are freshly cut, nothing comes in frozen.

We enjoyed pieces of pretzel bread dipped in their signature ale and cheddar dip. When the bread was gone, LC cleaned the bowl out with his finger. He also loves pickles. Deep fry ‘em with a spicy batter and you have a winner. Flaky cod was beer battered on a baby bun with tartar sauce for dipping.

I wanted to try some traditional Irish fare, so I ordered the bangers and mash for my entree. LC went along and tried the corned beef and beer braised cabbage. The presentation was awesome….a mountain of mashed potatoes drizzled with brown gravy surrounded by three grilled sausages, then topped with crispy fried onions. Texturally pleasing and enough to feed a lumberjack.

LC’s dish was a solid interpretation of a classic. A wedge of vinegary cabbage was a perfect compliment to the dense yet inexplicably tender chunks of corned beef. Stewed potatoes and carrots rounded out the plate. The meat was even better the next morning mixed in scrambled eggs, topped with melted cheddar, served with English muffins. Can you believe I actually ate the leftovers?

We ate about a third of our dinner, had it boxed up, then promptly ordered dessert…a wedge of housemade bread pudding. It was studded with dried cranberries and resting in a pool of creme Anglaise. I would have preferred raisins, but it was thankfully not extemely sweet. Most of it also went in a box just to be devoured as soon as we got home.

Parking was a bit of a challenge, forcing many patrons to walk across the parking lot from the nearby Costco. Or, you may snag a spot out front if you have the luck of the Irish! The food at Olde Blind Dog is hearty. And salty. But if you crave Irish food, you’ll freakin’ love it.

705 Town Boulevard 404-816-5739

South African cooking is foreign to most of us. A fusion of European, Malaysian, and native African dishes, their unique cuisine is exotic and soulful. Spicy peri-peri sauce, sweet chutneys, and curries compliment grilled meats and fish.

LC and I had the pleasure to dine there recently as guests of the owner. Our evening got off to a fabulous start as our enthusiastic and practiced server, Jamie, explained the unfamiliar dishes on the menu (without making us feel dumb) and checked in throughout our meal (without being intrusive).

We have gotten into a routine of sharing small plates, particularly when I’m tasting for an article and need to try as many dishes as possible. The menu at 10 Degrees South is made for folks like us, with most dishes offered as small or large plates. Rather than ordering, we allowed our host, Justin, to choose a variety of the restaurant’s best. I ordered a glass of Sincerely by Stellenbosch, a deep and spicy South African shiraz, to sip while waiting for dishes to arrive.

He selected five of their most popular small plates to start us off. Bobotie is a sweet ground beef curry, traditionally topped with egg custard and baked until golden brown. Here, they also use the curry as a filling for long, crispy Spring rolls, great dipped in the sweet chutney. Another South African dish called boerewors was served on a Milano roll and cut into bite-sized pieces. In case you don’t regularly eat boerewors, it is sausage made of lean ground beef. I found the sandwich a tad dry, the bread unnecessary. I’d probably prefer the version sans bread with tomato and onion sauce.

Sosaties is another traditional dish….skewered, marinated beef filet glazed with apricot curry sauce. Fantasticly tender, the sauce gave the meat a subtle sweetness without overpowering it.

Two giant prawns, that were nearly the size of lobsters, were butterflied, marinated in spicy peri-peri sauce, then grilled. I was expecting a bit more fire out of the sauce, but I imagine it’s pretty hot for the average Joe. Nonetheless, the prawns were certainly one of our favorite dishes of the evening.

Everything was served with rice. LC pondered out loud to our server that he thought grits might work better with the prawns rather than the rice, to which Jamie returned with a mound of “pap”, a staple much like grits, just fluffier and drier. It was topped with the aforementioned tomato and onion sauce. I don’t like grits….or pap. I’ll stick with the rice.

Another favorite was the calamari, simply grilled with a lemon butter sauce and sprinkled with briny capers. JN, publisher of the new neighborhood magazine BuckHaven Lifestyle, happened to be at 10 Degrees during our visit and suggested we try the lollipop lamb chops, two marinated and grilled chops served over mashed potatoes. Delicious. The generous serving pushed us over the edge, but we still had one more plate to devour….Di’s Delight, a moist fruit cake drizzled with caramel sauce with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Thankfully not overly sweet, the dessert was warm and comforting, with notes of cinnamon and nutmeg.

The only traditional South African dish we didn’t try was the cured beef slices, called biltong. Among the main courses not offered as appetizers, I would certainly order the char-grilled Cornish hen marinated with peri-peri sauce. Both are on my radar for our next visit.

After our meal we stopped by the bar for a nightcap and were happy to discover a guy playing acoustic guitar. A great way to end our safari!

4183 Roswell Road 404-705-8870

No matter where you are, it’s There.
You can eat some deer, if you dare.
Where “upscale” and “dive” go hand in hand.
A favorite of the E Street Band.

Where am I? There,of course! Brookhaven’s new restaurant and pub, catering to foodies and the occasional rock star, is making quite an impression. A fresh, organic menu features several items that are smoked, pickled, or otherwise laboriously manufactured in-house, from the trail mix with bacon (yes indeed!), to the mysteriously light smoked oyster chowder.

Me and B stopped by recently for a laid-back dinner and drinks. We chose seats at the bar. Being her first visit, B was disappointed to discover the barstools do not actually vibrate as I had reported in a previous post….LOL! Proprietor BB was There with his new prized possession, the guitar left to him by the legendary Clarence Clemens who, sadly, passed away last year.

Chef Ryan Hickey was There as well, bringing out an appetizer sampler including his devine smoked trout deviled eggs topped with duck prosciutto and pickled shallots. A small bowl of crab dip was baked until the manchego bubbled on top. Another small bowl contained his stellar smoked oyster chowder, brimming with perfectly diced potatoes, carrots, and bits of bacon.

We munched on a trio of bar snacks….roasted pepitas, smoked almonds, and the best damn trail mix I’ve ever had, made with peanuts, cashews, candied pineapple and bacon, then sprinkled with sesame seeds. BB delivered housemade fried pickles, a dish of crispy greasy goodness. All an excellent compliment to any beer, like our Coronas with lime served in real mugs with salted rims.

Next we tried the artisanal boar sausage and aptly named “mountain man” sausage made with a variety of wild game, including venison. Both were sliced and served with a grainy mustard and garlic aioli for dipping. A salty, caloric, meaty, manly snack.

Still not quite full, we ventured on to the sandwiches. I’ve tried nearly everything on the abbreviated opening menu except the mahi Cubano, recommended by BB and the chef. A thick filet topped with melted gruyere, pickles, garlic aioli and mustard pressed between two halves of a H & F roll tasted like something you would find at a boardwalk fish house in New England. Excellent fries seasoned with rosemary and garlic came with a wonderful dill-spiked dipping sauce.

There was no room for dessert, but alas, it did not matter. Chef asked if we would like to try a Guinness float. Ya think? B and I took turns sucking the thick and frothy concoction through the straws….yum!

Now I’m just waiting on the duck salad. Bring it on!

This pub cuisine is beyond compare,
So grad your friends, I’ll see you There!

305 Brookhaven Avenue 404-949-9677

Gotta love a place with a name like Fig Jam. From the owners of Baraonda and Publik Draft House, this relatively new spot occupies the corner vacated by Baroni at Brookwood Station. This is where I celebrated my birthday….for the third time.

LC and I worked up our appetites early and couldn’t wait for our 8 o’clock reservation, instead arriving around 7:15 to find the place unusually quiet for a Saturday night. The space was warm and inviting as we settled into a private table in the back.

First things first….what to drink? A list of signature cocktails caught our attention. The Fig Jam made with vanilla infused organic vodka, fig preserve, lemon juice, maple syrup, and rhubarb bitters sounded irresistible. We also ordered the mini cheddar cheese sandwich, one of the nine small plates offered.

Served with an amazing apple chutney, we polished off the delectible little sammies lickety split, as well as our subtly sweet and deceptively strong cocktails. With no clear plan in mind, we moved on to one of the medium plates, mussles in coconut lemongrass curry broth.

When it comes to mussels, I’m spoiled. Noche used to have gigantic ones swimming in a very spicy chili broth with cilantro and hominy. These days, however, no one can hold a candle to chef Shane Devereux’ at Top Flr. Although their description is almost identicle to Fig Jam’s, Devereux adds a serious dose of heat. I request a spoon for the broth every time….seriously. So, although the mussels were very good indeed, the flavor of the broth at Fig Jam lacked the intensity that I love.

Enjoying grazing dish by dish, we decided on the lamb belly with bourbon maple sauce. Another medium plate, there was enough meat for two entrees, with pickled veggies providing a perfect contrast to the sweet glaze.

Having reviewed the menu prior to making the reservation, I was fixated on the duck confit entree. I know duck doesn’t make LC swoon, but he’s a good sport and will usually (and wisely) allow me to make the final decision where food is concerned. LC was, likewise, fixated on the flat breads. So, in an effort to compromise, we ordered both, despite the fact that we were already full. We also ordered two more of the Fig Jam cocktails.

The flatbread was literally half the size of the table and turned out to be the least impressive dish of the evening. It was like an enormous Saltine cracker topped with cubes of dry steak, a smattering of blue cheese, and not enough caramelized onions.

I was much more pleased with the duck confit, an appropriately crispy, fatty leg and thigh served over braised parsnips, with a drizzle of cherry au jus. Beets normally accompany the duck but I requested it without. As if that weren’t enough, we tried the Jefferson mac & cheese as a side, baked in a shallow dish with crunchy bread crumbs on top. Why Jefferson? I don’t know, but I do know that I would have enjoyed the duck and mac more if I had been hungry.

And what’s a birthday celebration without dessert! We barely made a dent in the bread pudding with raisins and cinnamon accented with a bourbon caramel sauce. It went home with us.

An abbreviated wine list shows depth and variety, with a nice selection by the glass. When you visit (as you should) just keep in the mind the portions are oversized. LC and I ordered enough for six and left in a food coma.

1745 Peachtree Street NE 404-724-9100

Despite the fact that Cancun is Mexico’s answer to Panama City Beach, I was excited to go on the spur of the moment trip when LC invited me for Valentine’s Day.

I love Mexico, especially the Mayan Riviera. The locals are friendly, the weather is hot, and so is the food!

Mexican cuisine is among the most popular in the world, with its vibrant colors and flavors. It appears to be simple, yet encompasses such complex recipes as mole sauce and tamales.

My last visit to Mexico was to Cabo, on the Baja Peninsula. B joined me there in July 2010, where we found plenty of heat….just not on our plates. That region’s cuisine is built around seafood, using milder chilis than the meatier dishes of the Yucatan Peninsula. We feasted on lobster, prawns, and fresh fish with plenty of excellent guacamole.

But I missed the fire of habaneros. Fast forward to this Valentine’s week in Cancun. Ironically, a rare cold front kept temperatures in the 70′s, but that didn’t keep me from putting on a bikini and drinking margaritas by the pool. The Westin Lagunamar’s casual restaurant, Viento, serves simple Mexican fare and Americanized snacks. LC and I had a chance to sample both during our stay.

Viento was our first stop when we arrived as our kickass villa was being prepared. We took in the view of the Caribbean Sea as we ate a light meal of carne asada tacos, guacamole, and chips, which were very thick….good for scooping up the guac, but not my favorite type. Soft corn tortillas wrapped the beef, grilled peppers and onions in real corn flavor. Pure joy! We added appropriately hot hot sauce, salsa fresca, jalapenos, and guacamole to the tacos and washed ‘em down with the first of many margaritas.

A couple of days later, we found ourselves in need of a snack to soak up the excess tequila we had consumed. I ordered fish tacos but neglected to request the corn tortillas, so they came rolled in flour tortillas. LC didn’t have to twist my arm to agree to the fried jalapenos stuffed with cheese and served with fries….totally greasy and completely American.

We ordered a couple more margaritas for dessert then headed back to our villa for a siesta!

After a busy week of work and travel a casual dinner close to home was just what the doctor ordered. It had been a coon’s age since I’d eaten at Two Urban Licks. With so many new trendy spots opening each month, revisiting old favorites often ends up on the back burner.

LC and I walked into the dimly lit restaurant, which is cozy despite its cavernous interior, and took up residence at the first bar. We lucked out, as a cool little band was playing in the corner. The huge rotating rotisserie remains the focal point of the space, centrally located in the open kitchen.

Two is where chef Scott Serpas sharpened his skills prior to opening Serpas, one of Atlanta’s best restaurants. In fact, his signature salmon chips and lamb lollipops remain menu favorites.

I started off with a glass of red wine poured from one of their 42 stainless steel barrels, an ingenious one-of-a-kind gravity flow system. We proceeded to order several appetizers to share….the salmon chips, shaved calamari, black bean soup, and tacos.

The first dish to arrive was the salmon chips, four big potato chips each topped with short smoked salmon, chipotle cream cheese, capers, and red onions. I’ve eaten these many times and remember them being much better. On this visit, an overabundance of salmon, which tasted fishy, made the chips soggy. None of the other ingredients stood out resulting in a disappointing start.

The shaved calamari followed. A respectable yet standard fried version drizzled with a sweet a spicy sauce and wasabi cream. Black bean soup, garnished with a bit of cotija cheese, cilantro and jalalpeno creme fraiche was soothing and flavorful, but not very photogenic.

However, my favorite small plate was the tacos filled with tender Korean BBQ beef, crunchy kimchi, jack cheese, and cilantro. Only complaint is they sat in a puddle of juice, causing the crispy shells to become instantly soggy.

A few small plates leaves room for dessert! I couldn’t pass up the bread pudding, although it is described as “white chocolate cranberry”. I have no love for white chocolate, an oxymoron for a product made from cocoa butter, sugar, milk solids, and vanilla, lacking the part of the cocoa bean called the nib that gives chocolate its flavor. So it is not chocolate.

However, I had it on good authority that the stuff was undetectable in this dessert. The bread pudding was luscious and perfectly paired with excellent brown sugar ice cream that sat upon a mound of chocolate cookie crumbs for a textural extravaganza of crunchy, creamy, chewy deliciousness. We licked the plate.

820 Ralph McGill Blvd. 404-522-4622

You know how much I love the burbs. Working on the weekend in Kennesaw? Double the fun.

After a few hours of setting up a trade show display at a school on a recent Sunday, LC and I stopped by Keegan’s Public House for a bite and a brew before heading to (I kid you not) the office for more work.

Pubs are usually also sports bars, so LC’s alterior motive was to watch the end of the Falcons game. But their TV’s were placed where they were hard to see from the booths, and the bar was full of patrons.

We sat in a booth anyway and ordered two Irish car bombs, shots of Baileys and Jameson’s that are dropped into half pints of Guinness draft, then quickly consumed. My unfortunate introduction to this concoction (5 of them) resulted in my car keys being locked in my office on Christmas Eve some years ago, but that’s another story.

Today, just one car bomb would erase the last few hours and smooth out our jangled nerves. But our break time was short and food was in order. LC and I often share things, so we tried the appetizer sampler, heart disease on a platter, including 2 beef sliders, 5 hot wings, and 2 Irish Spring rolls. I tried to counteract the cholesterol with their spinach salad topped with Granny Smith apples, candied walnuts, and blue cheese, but the dressing was pure bacon grease.

Wings and blue cheese were not extraordinary….we would have liked them spicier, but it was the meager serving of celery that baffled me. Isn’t celery cheap? Can I have more than 2 tiny slivers? The fatty beef sliders were topped with melted cheese and grilled onions….delicious. I thought the Irish Spring rolls were clever, made with corned beef, cabbage, and Swiss cheese wrapped in wontons and fried, of course. Thousand island dipping sauce added to the caloric nightmare.

Other selections were standard Irish fare….shepherd’s pie, bangers and mash, fish ‘n’ chips. Another Guinness for me before we hit the road, our bellies full.

1625 Ridenhour Blvd, Kennesaw 678-213-2461

LC likes martinis, or shall I say, he likes vodka shaken with olive juice served in a martini glass, because we all know a real martini is made with gin.

I like real martinis. Bombay Sapphire, dry, straight up, with 3 olives. Either way, the only place in town that serves a martini properly is The Highland Tap, a subterranean man-cave in the Virginia Highlands. They chill the glass with ice, fill a cognac glass with ice and seltzer, then shake up a double and pour a small amount into the chilled glass, the rest of it into a tiny carafe, which is then placed into the icy seltzer so it remains ice cold while you sip it. Classy.

A martini craving is what generally draws me to The Highland Tap. I wanted to introduce LC to the perfect martini, but we were hungry too, so we decided to snag a booth and share some appetizers and a thick, juicy steak.

We started off with an appetizer of two roasted scallops served over candied collards….just enough to whet our appetites.

Fried calamari or spinach artichoke dip? Both are menu staples throughout the U.S. since the early ’90′s, neither intrigues me. When presented with the choice, however, I went with the calamari. Flash fried with onions and peppers and drizzled with a generic “spicy” Asian glaze, Highland Tap’s plate of squid was neither greasy nor chewy despite its ubiquitous appeal.

LC and I chose a petite filet, medium-rare, with a side of truffled mac ‘n’ cheese. Lately, we’ve been addicted to mac ‘n’ cheese, including the childishly pedestrian microwaveable Kraft variety. But the homemade kind is always preferable, baked until the cheese is slightly browned with crispy breadcrumbs on top. Highland Tap serves a solid rendition, I’m assuming with a drizzle of truffle oil…good stuff.

But first our server delivered a side salad and bread. The Highland Tap has served the same dark brown mini loaves of bread since I can remember. Warm and soft…sounds better than it tastes. I’d prefer crusty white ciabatta any day. Salad was fresh and lively, jazzed up with a citrusy vinaigrette.

Our steak was well-seasoned and perfectly cooked. Sections of sweet caramelized onion accompanied the meat. A second martini was the perfect dessert….straight up.

1026 N. Highland Avenue 404-875-3673

Football season always makes me crave ‘em!
Oh yeah, baby. It’s sausage balls…..almost like the ones I loved back in the day, when my diet was mostly beer, popcorn, and Kraft Macaroni & Cheese.

My first experience with sausage balls was at WP’s Mom’s house in Dora, AL during a Thanksgiving visit. She was a master of Southern style cholesterol-laden goodies like pimento cheese, deviled eggs, and sausage balls.

Perfect sausage balls have only three ingredients: pork sausage, shredded cheddar cheese, and Bisquick. You can alter the flavor by choosing either hot or mild sausage, sharp or mild cheddar, and you can alter the texture by adding more or less of the Bisquick. That’s all the tinkering one can do, legally.

Despite the obvious simplicity of this recipe I still found it necessary to call his sister SP every time I made them. It’s a mixture that must be kneaded by hand….a nasty task to be sure. There’s nothing like trying to get raw pork from under your nails! (Here’s a recipe I found online with great photos, including the mixing-by-hand part, although 2 cups sounds like too much Bisquick).

That was twenty years ago. A few years back I was elated to discover Jimmy Dean now sells pre-made sausage balls, in the freezer section of the supermarket. You know I snatched ‘em up, excited to see if they were sorta like the homemade ones. Although smaller in diameter, the flavor was the same. Then they introduced jalapeno flavor….awesome.

Things have certainly changed since my first taste of sausage balls. WP is gone. Now I’m a food writer, not a fashion designer. I’ve traded in the macaroni and cheese for sensible things like fish and salad. I workout five days a week and take vitamins. Recently I found the original flavor made with turkey sausage, lower in fat, so naturally I had to give them a try.

The turkey variety is drier and doesn’t brown quite as nicely as the fattier pork balls. But something was missing other than the fat. They lacked heart.

In fact, they made me a little sad. How I wish I could have the original homemade kind again, back in Dora, AL with WP. Those were the best balls ever.

During her visit, AD and I packed a year’s worth of drama in a week. Before taking her to the airport, we decided to find a restaurant nearby with a patio so we could enjoy the sunny day with a touch of Fall in the air, and enjoy a casual lunch while rehashing the events of her visit.

We decided on Cafe 640, formerly Cafe di Sol, who’s quaint patio faces a colorful section of N. Highland Avenue in the Poncey Highlands. The trees, flowers and tiny lights strung all around make guests feel like they are in a small town, but the sirens and occassional passing vagrant remind them otherwise! We chose one of the small tables near the street with the uncomfortable wooden slat chairs.

Should we have wine? Silly question. A glass of riesling for me, pinot noir for her. The three most expensive appetizers ($29 all together) sounded like an awesome clusterf*ck of flavor, perfect for sharing.

Delivered first were the panko crusted fried green tomatoes with New Orleans style BBQ shrimp. You know how I feel about fried green tomatoes. I rarely have a positive reaction to them, but often order them just to see how badly the kitchen can screw ‘em up. Of course the tomatoes were too heavily breaded, but they were not greasy. We could actually taste the tartness of the tomatoes, which was a great match to the sweet, plump shrimp.

A huge bowl of mussels and leeks in a red curry broth came out along with the “ropa vieja”, a dish of slow braised shredded flank steak on tortilla chips, then topped with a little melted aged white cheddar, fresh jalapeno slices, and drizzled with cilantro sour cream. In effect, Spanish nachos. Having just spent her last month abroad in San Sabastian, AD was interested to see how authentic this dish would taste.

The mussels were well-prepared, although I couldn’t detect much curry in the broth. That didn’t stop me from sopping up every last drop with the grilled slices of bread that were served with them.

In between slurping up shellfish, we tried the tortillas, each topped with copious amounts of tender shredded beef. The fresh, not pickled, jalapenos were fiery hot. We both loved it!

Not so pleased with the dryness of my riesling, I chose a malbec for my second glass, as did AD.

We enjoyed our lunch so much that I suggested LC and I dine there for an impromptu dinner the following week. Naturally, we had to order the ropa vieja. I knew LC would love the spicy nachos! To mix it up a bit we tried a house salad with a fantastic housemade balsamic, a stack of perfectly crispy onion rings, and a side of truffle mac ‘n’ cheese, bubbly and browned on top. A martini and a Guinness draft washed it all down.

But LC was still hungry, so we order the panna cotta to go. Needless to say, it didn’t even make it to the car. Sublime, light, and topped with fresh blueberries, we polished off the dessert in seconds.

640 N. Highland Avenue 404-724-0711