Hot Dish Review

The first time I attempt any dish there is that moment of uncertainty, especially when I am trying to duplicate a family recipe like my Grandma’s fried green tomatoes. And especially when I have critisized so many chefs for turning them into something they are not.

Fried green tomatoes are, in fact, a side dish to be served along with meat and other veggies. They can often be found on restaurant menus as appetizers, drizzled with aioli and topped with goat cheese or some other atrocity, their delecate, tangy flavor obliterated by heavy breading and deep-frying. Shameful.

Lovingly reproduced by my Mom, here is my Grandma’s recipe (if you can even call it that, it is more of a method). I probably could have made them by memory but I got the verbal instructions from her to be safe. Just so you know, I used two medium/large green tomatoes and ate every last bite….they were that f*ckin good!

Green tomatoes
Corn meal
All-purpose flour
Canola oil
Salt & pepper

Slice the green tomatoes about 1/4″ thick or a little thinner. Season with salt and pepper and lightly dust with half corn meal, half flour, just until coated. Heat about 3 teaspoons oil to medium/high. Add the tomato slices in a single layer to hot pan and cook 15-20 minutes turning several times. Watch carefully and turn heat down, cooking until tomatoes are tender and browned.

If I can make them right on the first attempt there is no excuse for the pathetic execution of this dish at most restaurants.

I love fried green tomatoes, however, I rarely eat them. Here’s why….most restaurants serve them as an appetizer, all gussied up with bullshit like aioli or goat cheese or whatever. That’s why my very first blog post was a Knuckle Sandwich on this very subject.

Fried green tomatoes are a vegetable, a side dish like green beans or squash or corn. My Grandma in Tennessee made them, tangy and delicious, fresh from the garden. She taught my Mom how to cook them, sliced about 1/4″ thick, dredged in a little cornmeal and fried in a pan. That’s it. Simple. Southern.

It’s hard to find green tomatoes but I plan to cook up a batch as soon as I do….I think Whole Foods is my best bet.

Until then I decided to try ‘em at The Nook. Located on Piedmont Park, they have a kickass patio. Their trademark Tochos are their specialty but too heavy for a 90 degree afternoon.

The Nook offers fried green tomatoes as an appetizer with some sort of vinaigrette and feta cheese so I was already pissed off when I ordered them for B and I to share. She’s a Southern girl too so she knows what a fried green tomato is supposed to look and taste like.

The obvious first criteria is that the tomatoes are green. Like I said, it’s hard to find them and The Nook is clearly having this issue. Their tomatoes were yellow. Sliced appropriately thin with a light cornmeal coating, they lacked the tang of green tomatoes because they were too ripe.

On a positive note the vinaigrette and cheese were not overpowering. A small mound of raw spinach in the center of the plate also did not offend. They were a little too greasy but it could have been worse….they could have been breaded and deep fried like so many establishments do it, completely obliterating any flavor, except for, of course, whatever fucking aioli they drizzle them with.

My Grandma never even heard of aioli.

Has anyone had awesome fried green tomatoes in Atlanta, anywhere? Let me know, I’m on a ‘mater mission!

Bellisima! MS, my fabulous artist friend has been telling us about Piola’s happy hour for months and we finally had the chance to meet him there on Friday for drinks and complimentary appetizers at the bar.

Piola is an international franchise with US locations in Miami, New York, Naples, Chapel Hill and more. Atlanta’s store is on 11th and Peachtree with convenient parking off Crescent Avenue. Monday through Friday they offer complimentary nibbles at the bar from 5pm to 8pm.

The nibbles are substantial including bread sticks and dips, mini pizzas, olives, bruschetta, gnocchi, and mini sandwiches with copa and cheese. Drinks are yummy including the Brazilian favorite caipirihnia and a delicious kiwi caipiroska.

Piola is a great first stop on a party night. Next door is Ra Sushi (the atrocious, lame, and flavorless chain sushi spot) and Ri Ra, the Irish pub (which I have not yet visited). All in all, this block off Peachtree has become somewhat commercial.

Stop by Piola for a drink and a quick bite before a night out on the town!

For the second year in a row I ended up at Shaun’s during the Inman Park Festival. Last year I made a reservation. My previous experiences at Shaun’s were not spectacular so I thought this was a prime opportunity for the restaurant to redeem itself, despite the burden of the festival crowds.

I’ve yet to be impressed. In fact, neither last year’s or this year’s visit was nearly as good as my first visit. I remember having the shrimp and grits then, seated in the front room by the bar when it was still used as a dining room. The dish was so incredibly rich that it almost made me nauseous. But it was impossible to deny that the shrimp were perfectly cooked, the flavors were pure Southern comfort, with a stick of butter.

Last year my companion and I, seated in the main dining room opposite the semi-open kitchen, shared the Sardinian flatbread that Doty has become known for since his Mumbo Jumbo days. Basically a huge cracker topped with arugula, cheese and olive oil, with occasional variations. Our flatbread was supposed to have goat cheese but we got parmesan instead….not even a reasonable substitution, but I chalked it up to their being so busy. We also ordered the Berkshire pork buns….sliders with pork. I can’t remember if it was shredded pork but I do remember that they were rather uninspired. Our entrees were so boring I don’t recall them at all. But I do remember the dessert, the sticky toffee pudding. A dry clump of cake doused with a cloying sweet (and I guess sticky) toffee syrup. Just plain bad.

Doty was one of the first young Atlanta chefs to re-introduce diners to liver. After 3 1/2 years in business (I swear it seems like 7) he still serves his chopped liver, East Village style, and the chicken liver fettuccini. I hate chicken liver so I won’t be sampling those dishes, although it is possible that my companion last year ordered the chopped liver, after all, he is a New York Jew.

This year LG and I stopped by purely by chance, hoping to score a table outside for a drink. It took me 20 minutes to get her mojito and my mimosa, but the weather was great and the people watching was entertaining. Promptly at 5:00 we were asked to move, so we took a table in the pretty, yet secluded, back patio. Seated on mod plastic chairs next to a wall of jasmine, the setting was very pleasant.

We ordered a bottle of Lambrusco bianco. Sold out. LG ordered a prosecco and I ordered another Mistral Mimosa. Sold out of anything sparkling. After years of being centrally located during the festival you would think they would have their shit together by now. How about a glass of tempranillo for me and the simply red for LG? Our server inadvertantly switched them, but we figured it out. She had already delivered a delicious sesame bread basket with butter.

It was Sunday which is pasta night at Shaun’s. For a mere $12 guests can dine on salad, pasta, and dessert. Chopped salad with buttermilk dressing, celery, and sprouts and your choice of goat cheese raviolis with wild nettle pesto, rigatoni with organic turkey bolognese, or spaghetti with marinara and pork meatballs. I almost went with the goat cheese raviolis. They did look good at a nearby table.

But instead, I ordered the roasted chicken. The menu description says “Benton’s smoked ham, black trumpet mushrooms, grilled ramps, smoked olive oil”. So I’m thinking it is perhaps a half skin-on roasted chicken with mushrooms and ramps. Uh, no. I asked if the skin was crispy and our server said “well….not really. But I can request that for you”. Bad idea. The chicken was boneless breasts stuffed with the mushrooms and ham served over a huge plate of polenta and turnip greens. WTF? The beige skin on the chicken was mushy….the farthest thing from crispy imaginable.

The overwhelming issue at Shaun’s is the misrepresentation of dishes on the menu. Or rather, unclear descriptions, substitutions, and missing ingredients. There’s just no excuse, really. Shouldn’t the chicken dish be described as “stuffed chicken breast with polenta and turnip greens”? Even the ramps were missing, but delivered in a side dish. They were scallions.

LG’s burger was ordinary. With Doty’s Yeah! Burger opening any day one would think the burger here would be kickass. Not so much. It was a thick hunk of meat on an ordinary bun with ordinary cheese. Even the promise of duck-fat fries fell flat. I can name lots of trendy restaurants with better fries, regardless of the type of fat they are fried in. I’m not looking forward to reviewing his new burger joint which is on my roster for an upcoming issue of Atlanta’s Finest Dining.

What’s good about Shaun’s? Doty is a trend-setter with his gluten-free dinners and an early supporter of Slow Food and Georgia Organics. That’s about it.

The service wasn’t bad. The food wasn’t bad. It’s just consistently mediocre.

As a child me and my Mom always colored eggs for Easter. I continued that tradition on my own until just a few years ago when I switched to making deviled eggs….appropriately inappropriate!

This is so elementary it’s not even a recipe, really.

Omega 3 eggs (I use Eggland’s Best)
Dijon mustard
Lite mayo
Salt and pepper to taste
Cayenne
Paprika for garnish

Boil the eggs for about 9 minutes. Let cool and peel. Cut the little guys in half lengthwise and scoop out the yolks. Mix with desired amount of mustard and mayo with a fork until creamy (start with a tablespoon of each for about 4 eggs). Add a pinch of cayenne, maybe a dash of hot sauce if you like. Fill the eggs halves with the yolk mixture and sprinkle with paprika.

This year I tried to be fancy and piped the yolk mixture in with a plastic bag with the corner snipped off. Not a bad effort!

Nothing gets my dander up like the “mishandling” of fried green tomatoes.  I grew up in Tennessee and LOVE fried green tomatoes.  What pinches my nerve is how they are served in restaurants….topped with crumbled goat cheese, drizzled with aioli, gussied up like hookers on Ponce.

Let me make this very clear:  fried green tomatoes are a vegetable, a side dish to be served alongside the meat and the other vegetables.  They are NOT an appetizer!  Who the hell decided that they were an appetizer anyway?  My grandmother never served them with f*#ckin aioli!  Just slice them thin, dredge lightly in cornmeal and fry ‘em up in a pan….delicious!

Fried green tomatoes are routinely overbreaded in restaurants, the heavy coating completely overpowering the delicate tangy flavor of the under ripe fruit.  It’s a shame that every “Southern” restaurant bastardizes this vegetable.  They all deserve a nice fat Knuckle Sandwich….with aioli on it!