Hot Dish Review

The last time I dined at Hogpen Gap Grill in Helen, I ordered the German favorite, bratwurst and sauerkraut, but vowed to try one of their all natural Angus beef burgers on my next visit.

Their lunch menu boasts several specialty burgers and the option to build your own with a multitude of toppings, from pineapple to a fried egg (imagination how disgusting that would be together).

No meal with LC is complete without an appetizer, so he ordered whole fried okra. Served in a cute spiral container lined with paper, there was a bit too much tempura-style breading on the okra, causing it to pull off easily, leaving the vegetable naked. It was served with some sort of creamy sauce for dipping, of course.

I ordered my burger medium with the usual toppings: bacon, caramelized onions, lettuce, tomato, mayo, and pepperjack cheese. The thick patty wasn’t particularly juicy but I was pleased with the quantity and freshness of the lettuce and tomatoes. Although I only eat half of it, the bun was pillowy soft. I slathered the bottom half with mayo and used the extra for dipping the crispy skin-on fries.

Altogether, a well-executed burger.

8735 N. Main Street, Helen 706-878-1822

While shopping for vitamins at Return to Eden, I decided to take a stroll through the food aisles. I used to do quite a bit of shopping at health food stores, like the original Nuts ‘n’ Berries when I was in college, and later Sevanandah in L5P. As the years passed, convenience and the lack of time have forced me to become more familiar with Kroger and Publix for groceries.

I had planned to purchase a few staples and something easy for dinner at the Publix next door, but my plans were quickly derailed when I saw the pints of Honeysuckle Gelato in the freezer at Return to Eden. I grabbed an organic frozen entree and a pint of honey fig flavored gelato and headed to the register.

At $7.79 for a pint, I paused momentarily wondering if it would be worth it, however once at the register, I encountered two employees that applauded my choice, but warned me that the gelato was so good the pint would only last for one sitting.

Inspecting the label, I noticed the short list of all natural, locally sourced ingredients, and also noticed one glaring omission….no nutrition information such as carbs, fat, protein, and most importantly, calories. Gelato is made with milk instead of heavy cream so it is generally lighter than ice cream, but it would be nice to have the specifics. Less info, less guilt? Sure, sometimes ignorance is bliss.

Honeysuckle Gelato has received great press on their line of Southern inspired gelato flavors like key lime pie and bourbon pecan. Their truck can be seen at foodie events all over town and pints can be purchased at upscale purveyors like Lucy’s in Buckhead.

For the record, it was challenging, but my pint of honey fig gelato lasted for two servings….and it was worth every single cent.

My lunchtime routine has become somewhat redundant, eating the same salads and wraps at the same places, over and over. Boring! Today, as I contemplated my options, I suddenly had the craving for a nice sandwich….perhaps a simple mozzarella, tomato and basil on a baguette like the one’s I used to buy at Dean and Deluca’s in New York.

So I stopped by Alon’s. There was a time when the only thing I purchased at Alon’s was their white chocolate raspberry cheesecake, an ironic choice given that I’m not fond of any of those ingredients. However, when put together, the textures and flavors were phenomenal. After many years, they finally pulled the plug on that cake, and I subsequently fell in love with their chocolate chunk cookies, chewy little buttons of love that beckoned me inside each time I attempted to drive by the Virginia Highlands bakery.

That was a few years ago. Since then, owner Alon Balshan has taken over the space next door, formerly Rocky’s Brick Oven Pizza, and converted it to a market featuring specialty products like local dairy goods, prepared salads, meats, and side dishes ready to take home and enjoy. Alon’s also boasts one of Atlanta’s best selections of imported and artisan cheeses and a well-edited selection of wines to pair with them. As I perused the cases, the chocolate croissants called my name, but I was there on a mission….to get a real sandwich.

Their menu of sandwiches and salads includes some terrific choices like roasted chicken with pesto on country French bread and a smoked mozzarella panino, both of which tempted. Then I spotted the cooler with a basket of pre-made sandwiches including the Caprese I was craving, here served on freshly baked ciabatta.

The secret to a really great sandwich is the quality of the ingredients, especially when so few are involved. Each must stand alone….imported Italian bufala mozzarella, fresh basil and heirloom tomatoes from the farmer’s market, and of course, artisan bread. I picked up a bag of kettle-cooked barbecue chips and a slightly sweetened grapefruit soda to complete my upscale lunch. It was a truly great sandwich.

Food, like so many things in life, runs in cycles. I think I’ll add Alon’s to my luncheon repetoire and who knows, I’ll probably leave with a bag full of those cookies the next time.

1394 N. Highland Avenue 404-872-6000

As Atlanta’s oldest continually operational dining establishment, Horseradish Grill’s gentrified interior belies its original use as a country store in the 30′s, becoming a full-fledged restaurant in 1946 under the management of entrepreneur Bill Daly. His passion for horses is evident in the space’s furnishings, reminiscent of a horse stable, much of which is still intact today. The property was purchased by Steve Alterman in 1995 and renamed Horseradish Grill.

On a recent rainy night, LC and I met our friends JE and AA there for dinner, arriving early in hopes of snagging a table prior to their reservation time. Luckily, a few folks left the bar so we took up residence there instead, starting off with martinis for the guys and bubbly for the girls before uncorking the bottle of Silver Oak cab they brought along.

We shared orders of fried green tomatoes and shrimp and grits to start. As you may be aware, the improper preparation of fried green tomatoes is my pet peeve, especially the common but silly adornment with aiolis and such. Although Horseradish Grill tops theirs with goat cheese, spicy pecans, and remoulade sauce, the tomatoes themselves were thinly sliced and pan fried with a breading so minimal one could see the green through it…like you’re supposed to! Fabulous. Now just get rid of the fussy toppings.

Shrimp and grits were equally impressive. A generous portion of fat shrimp, fire-roasted red peppers, and caramelized onions topped a bowl of Logan Turnpike grits. At $14 it was pricey for an appetizer, but it could easily sub as an entree, in which case I’d request it without the peppers and with extra caramelized onions.

When we heard the chef’s soup of the day was she crab, we all said “yum!” and ordered a couple of bowls to split, plus another of potato leek for me and LC. However, the kitchen had run out of the she crab and brought out cream of vidalia instead, complimentary of course. Two hearty, cream-based soups were a tad too rich, but I particularly enjoyed the addition of andouille sausage and collards in the potato leek soup. After polishing off our starters, we had the bottle of wine opened….one of the smoothest cabs I’ve ever tried.

Predicting enormous portions, I suggested LC and I share an entree. We chose the pork chop served with gouda grits and braised greens. The chop was a double-cut monster, crusted with cornbread crumbs, then pan sauteed and finished with homemade apple butter. I couldn’t help compare it to the pork chop we recently shared at Rosebud, another huge hunk of meat but cooked medium and much more tender. Horseradish Grill serves it well done, like any decent Southerner (like my Dad) would require. Otherwise, the vinegary greens contrasted nicely with the sweetness of the applebutter.

There was no room (or time) for dessert, so we headed back to my neck of the woods, full of all things Southern.

4320 Powers Ferry Road NW 404-255-7277

This may be hard to believe. Despite its location five minutes down the street from my condo and the positive media attention since it’s opening eight years ago, I had never visted P’cheen until last weekend. It was already on top of my short list when friend BB, owner of There Brookhaven, stopped by my office with their revamped menu and some gluttonous gossip. Armed with this titillating information, I couldn’t put off a visit another day, so I talked LC into giving it a try that very night.

Having never visited the former incarnation of P’cheen, I can’t compare the decor before and after, but the space was casual and funky, with bamboo shades and copper trimmings adding warmth. Music was too loud initially, although our late arrival (around 9:30pm) would indicate that most folks have finished dining and have turned to drinking in many establishments….but not here, and not us.

Now for the gossip. Jeff Myers, formerly partner at Top Flr and still sharing ownership of Sound Table with fellow DJ Karl Injex, was expediting dishes alongside owner Keiran Neely. Coupled with the dining room makeover which Myers completed almost overnight on a $500 budget, one might conclude some sort of partnership had been arranged, but again, it’s only gossip.

We debated briefly over sitting outside where it was chilly, or indoors where it was loud, finally deciding on a table inside where we promptly ordered drinks. LC will often try a cocktail from the specialty list, this time ordering a black tea infused moonshine with lemon. I ordered an inexpensive glass of bubbly, but later switched to LC’s impressive selection, a new cocktail developed by Nate Shuman of Proof and Provision.

Moving on to the gluttony. P’cheen’s new menu is designed for sharing, with a variety of small plates that run the gamut from frog legs to turtle soup. Although I recommended we order only four dishes, it was impossible to narrow it down to so few, especially since LC threw in the Thai grilled chicken wings as our server was walking off. No surprise there.

BB had recommended the grilled octopus but it unfortunately didn’t make the cut. Instead we ordered the coconut curried mussels, baked jumbo lump crab mac ‘n’ cheese, potted duck confit (I insisted), Malaysian steak, sorghum glazed baby carrots, and the previously mentioned wings.

I was hoping a couple of dishes would arrive first, then perhaps a couple more, but everything came out almost at once, covering the surface of our tiny two-top. Coconut curried mussels were reminiscent of chef Devereux’ version at Top Flr, although not as spicy. Malaysian steak was in fact a salad, much like the beef salad I’ve ordered at Surin for years. Baby lettuces, cucumber, shaved onion, and cilantro were topped with a generous portion of thinly sliced steak, cooked medium.

Who can resist baked mac ‘n’ cheese? Neither of us, apparently. I loved the crispy edges of elbow noodles and cheese, finding the subtle bits of crab when I dug deeper into the cheesy goodness. I also can’t resist duck confit. P’cheen serves the pulled meat in a bit of light broth in a tiny Mason jar. Thick slices of grilled sourdough provided the crunchy vehicle for the duck, perfectly paired with a sweet and sour cherry chutney.

The Thai grilled chicken wings, a surviving dish from the original menu, were glazed with a spicy sauce then charred until crisp. LC would have been happy with a dozen of these and nothing else, except maybe the moonshine. However, it was his idea to order the carrots…we needed a veggie, right? Whole baby carrots in every shade of orange, yellow, and even purple, turned out to be one of my favorite dishes of the evening.

As we were licking the remnants from each plate, we noticed a bicycle parade passing in front of the restaurant, some riders with brightly colored afro wigs bobbing as they passed. Our car would not be retrievable from valet just yet (yes, thankfully there is valet!), so we ordered a couple of shots of moonshine, this time choosing vanilla bean infused. Smooth dessert.

Myers was spinning at the DJ booth in the back as we left, waving goodbye to him and the new and improved P’cheen.

701-5 Highland Avenue 404-529-8800

Tucked into the alleyway between Cosabella and Tootsies, Drew Van Leuvan’s new restaurant in the Shops Around Lenox is truly a hidden gem. DC chose Seven Lamps for our Atlanta Eats writers meeting, and of course, to eat, drink, and socialize.

When I arrived, he was seated at the communal table chatting with two contributing bloggers, one of whom was enjoying a cocktail with a salted rim. It turned out to be a Paloma made with tequila, grapefruit, and soda. Moments later I was sipping my own Paloma…tasty but certainly not enough alcohol to warrant it’s $10 pricetag.

Although there are only five actual lamps on the exposed brick wall and four naked bulbs over the communal table, they provided the kind of warm amber lighting that makes everyone look pretty. The dining room is dressed in cool shades of gray against thick repurposed wood tables and schoolroom chairs. Shiny white subway tiles provide a clean backdrop for the staff working in the open kitchen next to shelves of put-ups like pickled fiddlehead ferns.

L and J were already having some cheeses with accompaniments, including L’s favorite pistachio macaroons filled with mortadella mousse. Apparently, they make one want to go topless, so perhaps I’ll get some to go on my next visit.

KR, who is already a Seven Lamps regular, arrived as I was pondering what I might put in my mouth. I decided on a small plate of savory crepes filled with wood grilled Tuscan kale and vidalia onion, then sliced and baked with a gruyere gratin in an iron skillet. The decadent dish was finished with a smoked vinaigrette. Loved it! Another cocktail was in order as we discussed why some folks think all we do is drink and eat, this time a “fizzy lifting drink” made with Bacardi Superior, fresh lime, black peppercorn syrup, then carbonated while shaken. Again, delicious but not enough liquor.

A selection of four handmade pastas, each offered in two sizes, included the alluring black linguine with braised rabbit legs, in a white bolognese sauce. I ordered the small plate for $10. The wonderful toothsome quality of the pasta, colored black with squid ink, was the perfect match to the succulent pulled rabbit meat and sinfully rich sauce. It was the very definition of comfort food…one of the best dishes I’ve eaten in recent memory.

Van Leuvan’s menu evolves with the seasons, and is tweaked daily reflecting the fresh ingredients available at the farmer’s markets. Among a table of food writers, there was not a single complaint, which is a strong indication that Seven Lamps will continue to shine brightly.

3400 Around Lenox Road #217 404-467-8950

The Kentucky Derby, with its BBQ, big hats, and bettin’, has become a tradition for me and LC. It’s pointless to photograph and write about the horrific food available in the stands at the event itself, (although I am still nibbling on the leftover kettle korn as I write this) nor the enormous grilled crab legs at Sandy’s annual shindig.

But I will tell you about Bob Evans. Although I’m familiar with Bob Evans products, primarily sausage, I had no idea there were restaurants. In fact, there are nearly 600 in the U.S., located throughout the midwest and south.

On the morning of our drive back to Atlanta, LC admitted Bob Evans was one of his favorites during his college years as we pulled into the parking lot, ready to fuel up on a good ol’ Southern breakfast. Our Derby hostess TH and her man D joined us before she headed north on business. The restaurant’s sunny yellow decor was inviting on this rainy morning as we chose a booth just before the crowds arrived.

I strayed from my boring scrambed eggs and ordered them over easy with bacon, fruit instead of potatoes, and wheat toast. However, I neglected to request the toast dark, receiving warm buttered bread in its place (see photo). I’m always baffled when restaurants serve toast that isn’t toasted. The second attempt was much better, although I had asked for dry toast and it was buttered.

No matter, the bacon was chewy, the yolks were runny and we were all set for our six hour drive!

They are opening a restaurant! Go to Kickstarter to help them raise the funds for their new venture.
Quite some time ago, I signed up for email alerts from PushStart Kitchen. Chef Zach Meloy and his wife Cristina create intimate dinner parties in a rustic space at The Goat Farm two or three evenings a week. Each menu is unique, featuring veggies one week, Latin flavors the next, or a mad combo of both.

The menu sent out last week was particularly intriguing, with words like bacon and coffee catching my attention. I responded, albeit not right away, only to find out the dinner for Sunday was fully booked. However, a few days later I received a last minute email from Cristina saying there had been a cancellation. Were we still interested? Indeed!

LC joined me on our first visit to the art complex on the West side known as The Goat Farm. Upon arrival, we were met in the parking lot and escorted to the space upstairs where Zach was preparing an appetizer of smoked ham on a stick, dotted with BBQ sauce, and mixing some sweet yet deceptively strong rum cocktails with black tea and ginger.

We mingled with our fellow diners to discover most of them had attended PushStart several times, each one raving about the intimate dining experience and the amazing food. After a couple of cocktails, we were seated at the 100 year old table, a thickly varnished repurposed door, set for sixteen guests.

Inspired by his cravings when hungover, chef Meloy started us off with chewy yet crispy hunter’s bacon lardon. It was paired with neat squares of dense and creamy bread pudding, arugula, and slices of pickled Asian pear, all resting on a generous drizzle of smoked maple syrup. Manchego cheese had been made into a foam which was piped onto each plate. Each component was presented somewhat individually, representing a variety of textures and flavors. An oaky chardonnay was a tricky pairing (perhaps only because I dislike chardonnay). The chatter at the table suddenly ceased as we all became mesmerized by our perfectly balanced plates.

Meloy’s main course was a flank steak served with a soft cooked egg made in his countertop sous vide machine. Introducing familiar Latin flavors, a heavy smudge of black bean puree decorated the plate, along with pickled tomatillo halves and small orbs of crispy masa. He paced around the table as we broke our eggs, anxious to confirm that the yolks remained soft. Success! The tartness of the pickled tomatillos and the earthy corn flavor of the masa once again showed the chef’s ability to compose a perfectly balanced plate. A spicy, earthy cab was an excellent pairing.

Dessert was served in large white bowls, two doughnuts sprinkled with sugar mixed with a bit of ancho chili powder for a surprising but pleasant kick. A mound of malted milk balls were beneath them, all atop a drizzle of bourbon gel. They would have been excellent just like that, but the chef’s assistant came around with a pitcher of cold coffee custard that she elegantly poured into each bowl, completing the dish. Ridiculously awesome. How about some champagne with that? Yes, please.

The finale was a strong after dinner cordial and a dish of chewy candies made by Cristina, who was busy caring for their new baby.

Naturally, discussion at the table centered around food, and as a food writer, my fellow diners were eager to know how I rated this meal. To be honest, it was exquisite, definitely in my top ten meals of all time. And for a mere $60 suggested donation per diner, a bargain as well.

Like Dinner Party Atlanta which morphed into a full-blown restaurant, The Lawrence, and Spice Route that became the brick-and-mortar Cardamom Hill, the Meloys are on the hunt for a space, hoping to turn PushStart Kitchen into the restaurant of their dreams. But for now, it’s one dinner at a time.

The Goat Farm is located at 1200 Foster Street NW

Brunch used to be a regular thang, but these days it’s a rare luxury. Lately, I’ve been longing for the Sundays of years gone by…the plates of rich eggs benedict drenched with hollandaise sauce, and the extra-thick bacon that I’m too lazy to fry at home.

So I vowed to do brunch more often this Spring and Summer, starting with La Tavola. It’s so close to my place and I had a coupon for a free brunch entree so LC and I stopped by on our way to the final round of a golf tournament.

We arrived before 12:30pm, the designated time that the church says it’s OK to drink in restaurants, so LC ordered a bottle of sparkling water and some orange slices, creating a refreshing, fizzy non-alcoholic cocktail. Knowing we had BBQ awaiting us for lunch, he wanted to keep it light, simply ordering two fried eggs with applewood-smoked bacon, polenta, and fresh fruit.

Their fried egg panino with fontina was certainly tempting but as I mentioned, eggs benedict was always a favorite, so the poached eggs bruschetta was an obvious choice. An Italian rendition of the American brunch classic, La Tavola’s bruschetta was made with a thick slice of toasted artisan bread topped with sauteed Swiss chard and two perfectly poached eggs, generously covered with parmigiana-basil fonduta, a creamy cheese sauce. A crispy pinwheel of pancetta decorated the top. Perhaps by chance, perhaps by design, the dish reflected the colors of the Italian flag, green, white, and red.

My bruschetta was difficult to cut. A sharper knife would have probably helped. Otherwise, the flavors were terrific, just wish the pancetta was more prominent…and less crispy. LC’s portion was rather skimpy, although I was impressed with the mixture of blood orange slices and strawberries in his fruit cup.

Not a fan of Italian food, I was pleased with the lack of tomato in the dishes we chose, although a small selection of pastas, including spaghetti with tomato sauce and veal meatballs, is available for the those craving a more traditional Italian meal.

992 Virginia Avenue 404-873-5430

When Atlanta Eats approached my friend BB to shoot a segment at his restaurant There Brookhaven, he was pretty excited. It was scheduled for lunch so my friend and colleague MC joined me for his nearly famous bison burger.

We arrived as the film crew was setting up, interviewing BB who is always good for a shocking tale involving the FBI and/or multiple celebrities. Mutual restaurant industry friends arrived as MC and I were relaxing with inappropriate lunchtime beverages, red wine and Corona Light.

Although it doesn’t say so on the menu, the bison burger is a double stack, with melted white cheddar in between. As a smallish chick, I’d prefer just one patty, or at least the option. Roasted poblano pepper, avocado, red onion, and spicy mayo come standard on this hefty sandwich, served with crispy fries seasoned with garlic and rosemary, or plain if you will be having any conversations with anyone the remainder of the day. I chose the latter, of course.

What you’ll need to eat this burger: fifty napkins and the ability to unhinge your jaw. It’s tall. It’s messy. Juice will run down your chin. Mara Davis, providing a little feminine counterpart to sportsguy Steak Shapiro, came over to our table to interview us for the show, both of us wiping our chins of meaty juices and green smudges of avocado. If you are like us, you’ll also need another drink.

The roasted poblano is a smoky contrast to the creamy, sublime avocado, with a surprisingly spicy afterburn. Both bison patties were cooked medium, to order, and served on a dreamily soft sesame seed bun. No surprise, BB’s bison burger is considered one of Atlanta’s best!

Watch for the episode featuring There Brookhaven on Atlanta Eats Season 2!

305 Brookhaven Avenue NE 404-949-9677