A Realtors’ networking event provided an excellent excuse to revisit Kimball House, located in a historic building in Decatur. Once a train station, the decor incorporates many original elements, like the cast iron fans that run on a pulley system. Other design features take their cue from the past such as intricate black and white tiles and rich black leather tufted banquettes.
The restaurant’s menu is old school as well, offering craft cocktails and dishes with French finesse and flavor. For example, in the private room downstairs I started with a French 75. Passed hors d’oeuvres included Pommes Macaire, a very fancy potato dish. Mashed potatoes were chilled, cut into cubes, then flash fried. Crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside, these clever taters were served with a decadent sauce gribiche (mayo with herbs).
LC met me there and we made our way upstairs to the main dining room where a table was awaiting us. Having had some snacks at the event, I wasn’t ravenous. He wanted to start with Tempura Onion Rings and I couldn’t complain. Served stacked and with spicy Sriracha for dipping, these rings were perfectly crisp, the batter holding tight to the juicy onion slices.
Salads at Kimball House are generous so we shared the Grilled Bitter Greens Salad, an homage to the end of winter. Thinly shaved boar ham, shallots, almonds, and pickled winter radish were tamed with dollops of creamy fromage blanc. But it was the delicate sauce noisette, hazelnut infused Hollandaise, that truly elevated the dish.
My favorite dish of the evening was the Grilled Pork Tenderloin. Here, the chef creates an earthy flavor profile with lots of cilantro, and toothsome hominy, a corn dish I grew up with in the South. A tangy salad composed of baby carrots, pickled radish, and Swiss chard, was a bright accompaniment to the tender, thinly sliced pork. Pumpkin romesco finshed the dish.
A rare occasion with no sweets, I chose to have my dessert in the form of another French 75. Oui monsieur!
303 E. Howard Street 404-378-3502