For many years, the hotel restaurant has suffered from a bad reputation for serving mediocre food in equally uninspired settings. Thankfully, boutique hotels and some international chains have embraced farm-fresh regional cuisine in lieu of institutional packaged foods.
Saltwood at The Loews in Midtown is a perfect example. Chef Olivier Gaupin, originally from France, serves a concise menu of house made charcuterie, small sharable plates, and a few French bistro-inspired entrees like moules & frites. I met LC there for a quick bite.
We started with two local cheeses, the Thomasville Tomme and Green Hill, both from Sweetgrass Dairy, presented with artisanal jam, and H & F walnut raisin batard (it’s bread, ya’ll). Although red wine would have been the appropriate beverage, the warm day called for a cold Stella.
Neither of us was famished so rather than overindulging in numerous small plates, we chose two entrees to share. One of the few dishes remaining on Saltwood’s menu from our first visit a year ago was the tagliatelle, wide housemade noodles tossed with roasted cipolinis, wild mushrooms, and tender pieces of braised veal cheek in a rich port and cream sauce. Rustic French cooking, as decadent as I remembered.
Our second dish was a newer addition, the spice crusted pork tenderloin. Its date cilantro chimichurri was calling my name! Chunks of seared pork rested in swooshes of potato puree with tiny wild mushrooms scattered about the plate. The herbaceous chimichurri possessed a hint of sweetness, and adorned every tender bite. Artfully presented, the dish was more substantial than it appeared. For once, we didn’t have room for dessert.
Once again, the impressive dishes at Saltwood turned a casual hotel dinner into a memorable occasion.
1065 Peachtree Street 404-745-5000