Atlanta restaurant reviews, culinary news, and gluttonous gossip by admitted foodaholic Serina Patrick

Ticonderoga Club…I Joined, Have You?


Long Henry at Ticonderoga ClubAt the suggestion of SS, a few of us met at Krog Street Market’s newest addition, Ticonderoga Club. Famed Fort Ticonderoga in the Adirondacks, was the site of many fierce battles, ultimately providing a stronghold for the Americans fighting the Brits in the Revolutionary War. Legend has it, a club was formed to celebrate the victories with cocktails, and this restaurant is the Atlanta chapter. It honestly makes no sense, but with mixologists Greg Best and Paul Calvert behind the bar, who really cares?

Packed with hipster “members” enjoying those cocktails, bottles of sherry(?) and light bites, we landed a table on the indoor patio where we started with “Special Cups”. I love zingy cocktails with ginger so the Long Henry caught my attention, made with rum, lemon, ginger, hard cider, and angostura bitters.
Pork Confit at Ticonderoga Club
The quirky menu offers “Fancies” as well as dinner specialties such as the Chuck Wagon, a steak large enough “to feed an army”. Feeling rather fancy, I started with the spiced pork confit, a chunk of fork-tender pork served with rich masa porridge, topped with an intense coriander relish.

Best and Calvert, along with partners Bart Sasso, Regan Smith and chef David Bies have created an equally quirky setting, featuring a lone captain’s chair at the bar and a duck decoy phone at the hostess stand.

There was a time when I had foie gras several times per year, but frankly, I can’t remember the last time the luscious liver passed my lips until my visit to Ticonderoga Club. I prefer it seared rather than au torchon, so I didn’t question the preparation of their Grilled Foie Gras starter. However, I was somewhat surprised to receive the room temperature slice made from many pieces of grilled foie gras, pressed into a loaf pan with marinated cherries. It was served with anadama toasts, thin toasted slices of the slightly sweet New England-style bread made with cornmeal and molasses. The dish was quite delicious, but I would have loved it warm.

As a new member of the club, I can’t wait to try some of the other oddball dishes like the definitely-Asian-influenced Butternut Squash Salad and the restaurant’s lone lunch offering, a sandwich called The Spiedie. As I raise my cup I’ll cheer “Ticonderoga! Ticonderoga! Ticonderoga!”

99 Krog Street 404-458-4534

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