Soon after it reopened, a group of food writers were invited by Green Olive Media to sample the menu, including many new items, at Ron Eyester’s pizza restaurant, Timone’s. Now with a New York style deli at the entrance, guests can stop by for a hand crafted sandwich or take home a classic deli side.
In addition to Timone’s, the so-called Angry Chef also owns adjacent Rosebud and The Family Dog, solidifying his monopoly on this corner in Morningside. Decor at Timone’s remains casual and family friendly with lots of distressed brick and stamped tin, vintage black and white photos of New York City and whimsical murals of classic Italian dish recipes.
Named for his Mom’s maiden name, Eyester takes pride in preparing everything in house at Timone’s. For example, the pizza dough is made with Sir Lancelot Flour using the “cold rise” method popular with New York style pies. The dough is made a day ahead and proofed overnight before it is formed into balls and allowed to rise again, resulting in a crisp yet toothsome crust.
Our group was treated to a selection of salads, appetizers, pizzas, and sandwiches, including the classic reuben stacked high with house made certified Angus brisket corned beef, melted Swiss, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing. Crispy rice balls filled with dense and creamy rice, sweet peas, and prosciutto were presented with red sauce for dipping. But my favorite dish was the clam pie topped white sauce, kale, calabrese chiles, parsley, garlic, and romano, a spicy, crave-worthy combination.
No Italian meal would be complete without dessert! A platter of cannolli awaited us as we polished off a stromboli and a meatball pizza. Crunchy cannolli shells filled with a light cream with a hint of cinnamon were a delightful conclusion to our lunch.
Like a true New York deli, Timone’s serves breakfast from 7 a.m. Monday through Saturday including a variety of bagels made in house each day. Lunchtime offerings range from cold sandwiches like the classic Italian sub to warm bowls of earthy Tuscan white bean soup.
Craving a slice of the clam pie, I stopped by for lunch a few weeks later. But instead of pizza, I was tempted by the hearty deli sandwiches, choosing the house roasted turkey with muenster, caramelized onions, and mustard aioli grilled on sliced Holeman & Finch sourdough. Each ingredient was carefully chosen and prepared, making for an excellent sandwich. For only $10.95, the deli combo included a bag of Zapp’s chips and a large drink.
Clam pie…I’ll see you next time.
1409 North Highland Avenue NE, Suite D 404-809-2979