For me, sushi is winter cuisine, so an invitation from old friend JG to meet at Tomo in Buckhead was well-timed. It was a cold and blustery night as I valeted my car and entered the long, narrow space fashioned in golden wood and stone. Floor-to-ceiling windows and elegant white chairs add a sense of drama.
Although it’s served chilled, I thought a bottle of unfiltered sake would warm me up. Tomo has an extensive list of sakes, but only a few nigori style, so I chose Yaegaki Nigori, a fragrant, milky beverage that is deceptively strong at 16% alcohol.
My friend is a regular at Tomo and recommended their kampachi to start. I chose the avocado salad with shrimp, expecting a simple arrangement of those two ingredients with a drizzle of miso dressing, however instead, the salad was a substantial bowl of spinach with a chilled shrimp, sliced avocado and a tasty sesame-miso dressing. Crisp and light.
The kampachi was served with whisper-thin slices of serrano pepper and drizzled with a typical ponzu-soy sauce, exactly like it is served elsewhere. However, Tomo’s version was inexplicably superior. Subtle nuances, from the precision with which the fish is sliced to the temperature of the garnish, can define a really great sushi experience.
JG agreed to try a new dish, the black cod with sweet miso marinade, broiled and served in hydroponic Boston lettuce leaves with crispy garlic chips on top. We devoured the filets, impressed with their delicate texture and flavor.
Historically, tuna is not one of my favorite fish. But I’ve tried several tuna sushi rolls and tartares that were quite delicious, so we ordered Tomo’s tuna tartare. The dish was beautifully presented, served with yama-imo (Japanese sticky yam), scallions, pink peppercorn, and shiso, complimented by a mildly sweet balsamic glaze and crunchy crushed pistachios.
I brown-bagged my remaining sake and retrieved my car, satisfied with a delightful Japanese dinner. It’s always great to share a meal with an old friend.
3630 Peachtree Road 404-835-2708