Newly named The Brasserie at Parish, a group of food writers were invited to the restaurant by chef Zeb Stevenson to sample dishes from his new menu. The decor remained as gorgeous as before, with exposed brick, antique mirrors, and red light fixtures.
Familiar names and faces mingled as we were treated to prosecco and oysters with a selection of sauces. Once seated, chef Stevenson introduced himself and his new menu. Previously, most dishes were inspired by the flavors of Louisiana, and were to be quite frank, very rich. Now guests can enjoy a selection of modern comfort food including more small plates great for sharing.
Servers poured red wine and delivered beautiful plates of Stevenson’s pickled and preserved goodies; a preserved quail egg, pickled okra and peaches, and chanterelle mushrooms. Tomato confit “tart”, was a light, deconstructed version with cultured cream, wine vinegar, and herbs. However, the black truffle grilled cheese compensated with its gooey, buttery richness.
Chef Stevenson selected five entrees for us to choose from and there were five people at our table, so it was decided we would each order a different dish so we could sample them all. To be honest, I didn’t particularly want the salmon, steak, or gnocchi…I was all about the confit pork shoulder. Served with Summer beans, fruit puree and mustard, this dish exemplified comfort food at its finest. Unfortunately, I only got two bites.
I had also considered ordering the corned duck leg and managed to try a few morsels, expertly paired with cabbage, potatoes, horseradish, and hazelnuts. Sourdough gnocchi with kale pesto and mushrooms was rich with earthy flavor while the salmon countered with a lightness reminiscent of the last days of Summer, accompanied by charred vegetables, corn milk, and tomato hollandaise.
Nostalgic and playful desserts were presented family style; apple cinnamon pop tarts and thick ice cream sandwiches with double chocolate cookies. Chef Stevenson came out to introduce his new pastry chef Kelly Lovett as we dug into the sweets. He also commented on his surprise that only one person ordered what he considered the best entree…the pork. Of course.
240 N. Highland Avenue 404-681-4434