Atlanta restaurant reviews, culinary news, and gluttonous gossip by admitted foodaholic Serina Patrick

Town…Organic in O’ahu

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Aside from our reservation at Mama’s Fish House in Maui the following week, I was most excited about dining at Town in Honolulu.

However, having eaten multiple times throughout our journey around the shores of O’ahu, it was a struggle to consider eating more. LC drove our rental to Town, an edgy, modern space with a pleasing mix of wood and stainless steel that reminded us of restaurants in Atlanta’s hottest neighborhoods. And much like our trendy farm to table spots, Ed Kenney, the chef and owner of Town, uses only locally sourced organic ingredients.

Although we made reservations, we chose, as we often do, to sit at the bar where we started off with a couple of cocktails. The bartender brought out a selection of bread, olives, and softened butter wonderfully presented on a terracotta dish.

Despite my excitement about dining here, there weren’t many items on the menu that caught my eye. Perhaps it was the overwhelming jet lag…it was only our second full day on the island. If we were hungry, we probably would have tried the pork belly entree with polenta, or the chicken with jasmine rice and long beans, but instead, opted for a few starters to share, coincidentally all served in bowls.

First out was their soup of the day made with carrots and kabocha squash, giving it a sunny gold color and subtly sweet flavor. Then came the black mussels with fennel in cinzano broth, served with a slice of crispy grilled ciabatta. Both were delicious and comforting.

We had little room left for the bowl of risotto topped with braised cremini mushrooms and cubes of roasted kabocha squash, but we managed more than a few earthy, creamy bites.

Although it wasn’t a full dinner experience, our meal at Town would be remembered as one of the best of our trip.

3435 Waialae Avenue, Honolulu 808-735-5900

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