December 23, 2012 at 4:13 pm , by Serina Patrick
Recently, DC invited me to tag along as he interviewed my old friend, chef Zeb Stevenson of Livingston and Proof & Provision. The three of us met at Miso Izakaya on Edgewood, commandeering the corner of the bar.
A traditional izakaya focuses on drinks with an assortment of small plates for sharing. Here, there is also a sushi bar. And their ramen has been named best in Atlanta two years in a row by Atlanta Magazine, although rumor has it they are taking it off the menu soon. Our drink orders ran the gamut from cocktails to sake. No stranger to alcohol, Zeb ordered his usual Tokyo Black, Japan’s answer to Guinness.
When I eat Japanese food I usually order cold unfiltered sake if it’s available. Miso surprisingly only offers one which was $19 a bottle….a bit pricey for unfiltered. It was smooth and milky with hints of citrus and apricot. Zeb detected a note of banana as well. DC tried a cocktail made with grapefruit juice and shochu, a distilled liquor commonly made from barley or rice.
While DC was chatting with Zeb about his recent Blood Dinner at Livingston and win on Chopped, I was studying the menu of small plates. Zeb recommended four dishes, two of which I ordered, the duck skin confit bun and shoyu tomago, a soy marinated poached egg served on a crispy rice cake. I also ordered two pieces of sushi, unagi (eel) and sake (salmon).
The egg came first, its white taking on a light brown hue from the soy. My chopsticks pierced the poached egg allowing the soft yolk to escape and run over the rice cake which was crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside. Texturally pleasing and incredibly delicious, I could have eaten a dozen of them.
I was somewhat disappointed with the bun since it was filled with duck confit, but no skin. And the cucumber that I had requested be left off was there, but easily removed. Soft and pillowy, the bun itself was quite good with the addition of scallion and hoisin sauce, however, it would have been better with some cilantro.
Two pieces of sushi were beautifully presented on a square plate with all the usual accompaniments. I was pleased with the quality of the fish and fully intended to order more, but the evening slipped away, the hilariously entertaining interview wrapped up.
In lieu of dessert, I tried a shot of shochu on the rocks, this one made with rice. Described as fruity and slightly sweet, it was clear and smooth, perfect for sipping.
Not quite a meal, my visit was a tease, leaving me with the craving to return as soon as possible.
619 Edgewood Avenue SE 678-701-0128
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