Atlanta restaurant reviews, culinary news, and gluttonous gossip by admitted foodaholic Serina Patrick

Sunday Brunch at Serpas

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Years ago I brunched nearly every Sunday. Boutique owner BH and I would meet at Virginia’s when it was actually on Virginia Avenue. There were only about eight tables on the microscopic patio where regulars would bring their dogs and enjoy a leisurely brunch. I still remember the spicy and fantastic Mexican scramble topped with crispy corn tortilla strips. But the neighborhood would never allow them a liquor license, and so after many years they moved to the space that now houses Rathbun’s.

Fast forward twelve years or so. Brunch is a rare treat these days so I was pretty excited to have an early Sunday meeting with DC at Serpas. Scott Serpas is one of my favorite chefs, adding his Louisiana accent to many of the dishes on his dinner menu. I was curious to see how that would translate into brunch.

Of course, there was a fried oyster benedict, but I’m not a fan of that particular shellfish. Creole flavors appeared in the form of an omelette with andouille sausage, lobster, onions, and peppers, as well as a starter of New Orleans beignets which DC talked me into sharing with him.

But first we were poured big cups of wonderfully rich, strong coffee. Although heavily coated with powdered sugar, the beignets were light and fluffy.

I would have liked to see a traditional eggs benedict offered, but it wasn’t so I went my usual boring bacon and eggs route. When ordering something as mundane as that, the trick is in the quality of each ingredient. Like DC said, he can make his own eggs, so he tried Big Papa’s single beef patty with fries, a monumental burger topped with smoked cheddar and bacon. Ordered medium, it was a tad overcooked, but he enjoyed it nonetheless.

My plate arrived artfully arranged, chewy slices of bacon forming a cross over the soft scrambled eggs. Griddled sourdough toast and breakfast potatoes cooked with onions and peppers accompanied my eggs. Not a potato lover, I had asked if there was anything I could substitute for the potatoes, described as hashbrowns on the menu….fruit perhaps? Our server said he didn’t think there was any fruit available. Hard to fathom, but no worries, the potatoes were tasty enough to warrant a few bites. My eggs were rather plain, however. I had to request salt and pepper, which were not on the table. Just a bit of goat cheese and some herbs scrambled in would have jazzed them up.

If you enjoy sweet and savory together, the breakfast torta layered with pancakes, serrano ham, sunny side eggs, and maple syrup sounds heavenly. The menu says it “tastes like happy”. My favorite thing about Serpas’ brunch menu was at the very bottom under the headline “Is It 12:30 Yet?” Being Sunday in Atlanta we are still subject to those antiquated blue laws that make alcohol sales illegal prior to that time. If you brunch there after noon, you can spice up your morning with a spicy cat scratch Mary, or my personal favorite, a refreshing mimosa.

Yes, what DC said is true. I can make my own eggs too, and do most every day. But I don’t buy applewood smoked bacon or bake my own bread for toast. It’s special touches like these that elevate the everyday egg.

659 Auburn Avenue 404-688-0040

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