Hot Dish Review

This year marks the 3rd annual Battle of the Burgers at John Howell Park in the Virginia Highlands, taking place on Saturday September 8th, from noon until 5pm. The cost is $25 per person general admission, which gives you unlimited burger eating privileges, or $60 VIP for burgers and beer. Proceeds benefit Embraced, a charity that donates gently used medical equipment like wheelchairs, crutches, and walkers to those in need.

Notable restaurants competing for the title of Atlanta’s Best Burger include the first year’s winner Kaleidoscope, There Brookhaven, and Grindhouse Killer Burgers.

As if the mouth-watering burgers smothered with cheeses and creative toppings weren’t enough, the event organizers have a line-up of live music including local favorites Whiskey Belt and Julie Gribble.

You say you’re on a diet? No problem. Just click on the Embraced link above and make a donation. No calories required!

One of Atlanta’s best young chefs is making a move. Shane Devereux is leaving Top Flr and The Sound Table to return to Peasant Bistro downtown where he began his culinary career in 2008.

Top Flr has been #1 on my list of favorites since I began this blog three years ago. I’ve come to know the guys that run this show and hope that Devereux’ sous chef, Dave Parsons, will continue to execute the existing menu that has been so successful.

On a bright note, I love Peasant Bistro, with its elegant European atmosphere. I look forward to revisiting to try some new dishes where Devereux’ French training will likely shine through. Joining him in the kitchen is E.B. Brown, the former sous chef from The Lawrence where Devereux remains a partner.

(photo of Brown and Devereux courtesy of Facebook)

After an exhausting day of work for both LC and myself, he stopped by my office so we could grab a bite to eat nearby. At the bar (yes, there’s a freakin’ bar at my office!) my colleague TB suggested Hearth Pizza Tavern, making special mention of their amazing roasted Brussels sprouts. Say no more, I love Brussels sprouts!

Hearth sits on the corner of Roswell Road and Hammond, in the shopping center with Whole Foods. I often find restaurants in shopping centers lack character, however, this space exudes warmth, with brick and wood furnishings and light emanating from the open kitchen. We chose two seats at the bar where the service was excellent.

Our impromptu dinner found me without my camera, so I used my phone to take these not-so-awesome photos. The food, however, was awesome. We ordered a couple of Peronis on draught and the Brussels sprouts as a starter. Quartered and roasted until crispy, the sprouts are tossed with pancetta and parmesan, then drizzled with a balsamic port reduction.

He could have opted for a sandwich or wings, but LC went with an individual size pizza despite having had a slice for lunch. It turned out to be an excellent choice. Appropriately called “ring of fire”, the thin and crispy crust was topped with garlic chili oil, chorizo, salami, cherry peppers, caramelized onions, roasted cremini mushrooms, cheeses, and cilantro. Spicy!

I chose the “simply white” pizza topped with olive oil, ricotta-mascarpone, romano, parmesan, garlic and fresh herbs, then added caramelized onions and black olives. It was simply kickass. What’s great about these individual pizzas is that the center doesn’t become soggy and droopy. They are cooked in their 600 degree hearth oven, creating a perfectly charred, crisp crust.

Two individual pizzas, an appetizer, and three beers for about $35. Delicious and affordable. If I lived nearby I’d become a regular.

5992 Roswell Road NE 404-252-5378

Our recent visit to El Porton in Alpharetta was the first time I had dined on their patio, with its furnishings made of huge, heavy barrels. The weather was ideal, plus their menu had undergone an update to include more a la carte tacos and creative appetizers. However, the menu is still the kind with photos of the dishes inserted in heavy plastic binders….appropriately kitschy.

We started with guacamole made tableside and LC blurted out an order of ceviche before there was any discussion. His folks got their usual pitcher of frozen margaritas while LC and I stuck with our usual skinny variety with lime juice and agave nectar.

The serving of citrus-y shrimp ceviche was generous, chopped with tomato, onion, and cilantro, garnished with a big slice of avocado. Tortilla chips were thick and unappealing, keeping my nibbling to a minimum, although I do enjoy their smoky salsa.

The kids split fajitas and me and LC ordered a selection of tacos in corn tortillas. I stuffed mine with cheese, lettuce, cilantro and guacamole….gringo style. They were light and fresh.

We cleaned our plates then worked off the extra chips at the nearby putt putt course.

4902 Atlanta Highway, Alpharetta 678-393-8888

Some days the best course of action is to disappear. I had a day like that last week, so I went There, where the atmosphere is warm and the liquor is cold.

Proprietor BB offered me a Moscow Mule, made with ginger beer, lime juice, and Russian Standard Vodka, the only potato vodka produced in Russia available in the states. Served in a proper copper mug, it is a refreshing cocktail, albeit an odd choice for me at noon….on a Thursday.

But I wasn’t There to drink, I was There to eat some figs! BB has been up in his fig trees every day gathering the ripe fruit, both black mission and brown turkey. With his harvest he, along with his new chef BT, created several dishes for this late Summer menu, like the fig salad with black peppercorn chevre dressing and the fig creme catalan for dessert. I ended up having both, plus a sampling of rustic squash soup.

The salad was a lovely composition of lightly dressed greens, mostly red oak from There’s garden, puncuated with fresh figs glazed with raisin puree. Pretty. Some chunks of goat cheese in the dressing would have added to the pleasure.

But it was the fig creme catalan served in a tiny Le Creuset casserole dish that really blew me away. Beneath the crunchy layer of torched sugar was a rich vanilla custard studded with sweet poached figs. Creamy, dreamy, decadent. It was a lovely escape, if only for an hour.

305 Brookhaven Avenue 404-949-9677

Tasty news from Caren West PR (scrumptious photo lifted from their Facebook page…it’s making me hungry!)

BONE LICK BBQ TO OPEN IN WEST MIDTOWN ATLANTA

Owners of P’cheen International Bistro & Pub, Pizzeria Vesuvis and the Edgewood Speakeasy Introduce Newest Concept Serving Award-Winning Barbecue for Lunch and Dinner

The highly anticipated opening of Bone Lick BBQ in the retail shops at Apex West Midtown has arrived! A spin off of P’cheen International Bistro and Pub’s popular weekly offering, Mike’s Monday Night Bone Lick BBQ, Atlanta’s newest barbecue destination is set to open Tuesday, August 14, 2012. Featuring pitmaster and chef Mike LaSage’s award-winning barbecue, Bone Lick BBQ will be open for lunch, dinner, drinks and delivery every Tuesday through Sunday.

With floor to ceiling windows providing plenty of natural light, the 2,700-square foot restaurant has a kitschy, vintage flair wrapped in a modern environment that screams great food, cold drinks and a good time. Taking a hands on approach, owners Alex Friedman, Keiran Neely and Michael LaSage designed and built out Bone Lick BBQ themselves. A mix of 50s diner meets your neighborhood barbecue joint, the trio focused on being as eco-friendly as possible. An expansive bar holds court in the center of the restaurant and it, along with the tables, booths and retail shelving, were all made from repurposed wood and recycled materials. A large metal arrow built from an old sign directs guests to an antique skee ball machine towards the back of the restaurant, while vintage refrigerators from the 50s and a large bathtub filled with ice-cold beer sit behind the bar. Staying true to their theme of always creating fun restaurant concepts that combine great food with a fantastic social scene, the jukebox features music picks from friends, family and local and national celebrities including investor actor and comedian David Cross. During the warmer months, diners can take advantage of Bone Lick BBQ’s street front patio that will have communal high top table seating.

“We’re not going for your typical barbecue restaurant. We want to apply the successes we have accomplished with P’cheen to Bone Lick BBQ, making it both a dining and social destination that supports and enhances the community around it,” says LaSage.

Lunchtime at Bone Lick BBQ brings grab and go counter service so hungry diners can get in and out of the restaurant quickly. At dinner, guests are invited to sit back, relax, and get their barbecue fix while enjoying traditional table service. With a chef driven-menu, LaSage promises to have all of his award-winning favorites that kept P’cheen packed on Monday nights, but is also serving up new offerings in addition to homemade beef jerky and sausage, cured hams, specialty bacon, homemade sauces and more. Barbecue enthusiasts will also be able to buy t-shirts, sauces, jerky and other items from the retail area.

“Good barbecue takes love, time and patience. You have to love what you are doing and it is critical to be more concerned with the quality than the quantity. We are going to be making everything fresh, from scratch every day,” says LaSage.

With the lunch menu only differing slightly, a sampling of appetizers from the dinner menu include: Original, jalapeno or spicy deep fried boiled peanuts; fried homemade pickles served with a chef’s selection of dipping sauces; smoked pepper pork rinds; the Redneck Charcuterie – an assortment of house made jerky, house cured bacon, house deviled ham, Coca Cola jelly, pimento cheese and crackers; Smoke ‘em if Ya Got ‘em – 48-hour marinated wings, slow smoked naked or double dipped; Brunswick stew and more. Popular sandwiches like The Legendary Pulled Pork Sammy, The Austin-tacious chopped brisket sandwich, and The Failed Hunter vegetarian option have made the move from P’cheen. A selection of entrees that can be combined in traditional meat and two, three, four and even five samplers are also available. Diners can choose from pulled pork, pecan smoked chicken, sliced brisket, spare ribs, and Yucatan style barbecued red snapper and combine with a variety of sides like the pork braised collards, jalapeno mac, pork-n-pork-beans, cider slaw, fried okra, house cut fries and tater tots.

Desserts at Bone Lick BBQ will bring a new level of entertainment beyond satisfying a sweet tooth. For example, the perfect side to a game of skee ball? Homemade funnel cake, of course. Diners can also enjoy maple bacon cotton candy made tableside, the fruit crumble of day, and even boozy peaches to finish off the night.

1133 Huff Road

Many months had passed since my last visit to Top Flr, and I was itchin’ to go. So when I had the chance to catch up with longtime friend SP recently, it was my first and only choice….nearby, not expensive, and always delicious. Plus, the restaurant has an underground vibe that I thought she would appreciate.

Arriving around 8:00pm, I was surprised that there were no tables available, but it was Friday and good to see my favorite restaurant was still thriving! Preferring to sit at the bar anyway, we scoped out a couple of seats. Ironically, I’ve only eaten upstairs once, on my very first visit.

We were having a hard time deciding on cocktails, finally landing on a specialty drink called Gringo Honeymoon made with Mezcal, lemon juice, cilantro, smoked ginger Sriracha agave syrup (what the hell?), bitters, and ginger beer. Light and refreshing, we both detected an odd aftertaste. Having been a bartender for many years, SP knows her liquor, so she determined it was likely the bitters that imparted the odd flavor. I enjoyed the drink’s spiciness.

On to food, we started off with the white bean hummus. Over the years, this dish has become increasingly spicy, topped with capers and chili oil. Served with a tiny ramekin of pepperoncini and mixed olives with toasted pita triangles, SP and I nibbled on it as we chatted.

Having recently celebrated its fifth year, Top Flr doesn’t require much hands on attention from owners Darren Carr and Jeff Myers. It’s like a well-oiled machine. So I was pleasantly surprised to see both of them at the end of the bar…I snapped a photo for proof!

I was thinking duck confit pizza or tuna flatbread and mussels, but SP doesn’t love mussels and the other two choices seemed like too much bread after the pita appetizer so we opted to split the roasted chipotle chicken with Brussel kimchee and soy reduction. I rarely order chicken when dining out (except for the brined bird with bread salad at Floataway), it just seems so ordinary. Chef Devereux’ chicken, however, is a standout. The meat was juicy and tender, pairing perfectly with the spicy kimchee and the subtle sweetness of the soy reduction.

We should have stopped there but we decided to split a dessert. None of the selections wowed me, but our bartender/server said the chocolate tart was excellent. While we waited for the tart, SP ordered another Gringo Honeymoon, this time omitting the bitters. It tasted exactly the same. I was in the mood for bubbly so I got a glass of prosecco.

A crust made of crushed almonds was filled with an impossibly dense chocolate ganache with crunchy cocoa nibs for textural excitement. A little scoop of intensely flavored espresso gelato topped it off. It was so rich we could hardly finish it….and later we wished we hadn’t.

Top Flr is like a neighborhood secret. SP didn’t even know it was there, but now that she does, I think she will return with her hubby AA. Strangely, LC has never been to Top Flr…perhaps we will all go together. Hell, we may even sit on the top floor.

674 Myrtle Street 404-685-3110

I’m confused.

A couple of years ago Five Guys Burger and Fries expanded into the Atlanta market to rave reviews. While gift shopping for Little T’s birthday recently, I found myself navigating the parking lot gridlock at the Edgewood Retail District and spotted Five Guys. I was hungry and excited to finally try it, especially their fries that have been repeatedly voted “best of (fill in the blank)”.

Arriving around 2:00pm, I was surprised to find a line stretching nearly to the door. I ordered a “little” cheeseburger with mayo, lettuce, grilled onions, and of course, an order of fries. Once you order, just stand around and wait for your number to be called. They won’t ask you if it’s to go, your burger will be handed to you in a greasy paper sack by well mannered, hard working line cooks whether you are eating in the sparsely furnished dining room or not.

Anticipating deliciousness, I took my first few bites of the Five Guys burger, but was delivered a swift kick of flavorless reality. I considered my recent burger experiences for comparison, for instance, Backyard Burger in Alabama and Smashburger which both delivered a superior product in a fast casual setting with similar pricing. Although fresh, Five Guys toppings were pedestrian….no guacamole here. And their “grilled” onions were hardly grilled at all. I was particularly disappointed with Five Guys’ soggy, thick-cut fries. In fact, I would rank Wendy’s higher, especially in the fries department.

Truth is, I prefer fancy pants burgers like the ones at Yeah! Burger where I can top my organic bison or free-range turkey burger with fresh avocado and bacon jam. Like Backyard Burger and Wendy’s, they serve sweet potato fries, although I have often complained that they aren’t quite crisp enough. I haven’t tried Wendy’s yet, but I bet they are as excellent as their regular fries.

Better yet, I like a nice juicy burger cooked medium and topped with lots of melted cheese and thick, chewy bacon. Grindhouse perhaps? No crinkle-cut fries please.

With the abundance of burger joints in Atlanta, both boutique and bargain, I simply can’t understand why anyone would choose Five Guys over the competition. Again, I’m confused.

Next time I have a burger craving I’ll pay the extra two bucks for flavor.

1253 Caroline Street 404-688-6474

Originally posted about a year ago….funny, it sounds like it could have happened yesterday.Friday night LC and I found the dining room at JCT Kitchen jam packed, despite the torrential downpour and severe thunderstorm warning. We had an evening to ourselves and wanted to enjoy a nice adult meal at a cool place.

Surprisingly, I had never made it to JCT before. It was one of the first restaurants to lure the trendy dining crowd to this somewhat industrialized neighborhood. Everything I had heard was positive so I was excited to give it a go.

The space is open, exuding warmth and simplicity, much like its neighbors Quinones Room and Baccanalia in the same complex. Across the way is the White Provisions building home to culinary star Abattoir and right next to the original Yeah! Burger.

Seated across from each other at a two-top along the wall, LC commented that conversation was nearly impossible, given the constant chatter from tables nearby. It was true, the atmosphere was anything but intimate. We would have preferred the patio had the weather cooperated.

We started with cocktails from their creative list, utilizing spirits like bitters, bourbon and rye, which has become rather de rigeur for upscale trendy restaurants these days. I was excited to see a sloe gin fizz on the list, taking me back to my childhood when my parents hosted card games and my Mom made this drink by the pitcher.

After delivering our cocktails, our server read off an entire menu’s worth of specials. I almost stopped him, having already decided on the bacon wrapped pork loin, when he said the word “duck”. The game had instantly changed. It was a breast and confit, I assumed a leg, with an orange champagne sauce served with sauteed peppers….a weird pairing but he had me at “duck”.

But first we wanted to sample a couple of starters, the “angry” mussels and the bacon wrapped figs with blue cheese. We found both dishes to be very impressive. The figs were not baked but rather raw, sliced in half with a thick strip of chewy bacon intertwined among the halves, which rested in an intensely sharp blue cheese sauce that provided the appropriate balance to the dish. A smattering of toasted almonds added a fun crunchy element.

A medium-sized bowl of mussles arrived, steaming in their aromatic broth flavored with peppered bacon, serano chilis, and onion. Although small, the shellfish were great. I especially enjoyed dipping the crusty rustic bread in the spicy broth. We loved ‘em!

When our server checked in I switched to prosecco. LC ordered the shrimp ‘n’ grits and I went for the duck, of course. His dish was richer than the Kennedys, grits engulfed in cheeses and butter, topped with shrimp and a battered and deep fried poached egg. A week’s worth of calories and fat, but decadently delicious.

My duck, however, was not exactly what I expected. Yes, the breast was nicely displayed with a crispy skin. Based upon our server’s description, I was expecting a leg confit, but instead the breast was served on a mound of shredded confit, seasoned with the orange champagne sauced described, creating a concoction which sort of reminded me of BBQ. The oily, crispy, gaminess of the confit was entirely lost. I wasn’t thrilled about the peppers to begin with and they did little to elevate the entree.

An unexpected favorite of the evening was the side dish of corn succotash that LC ordered. Bathed in butter, it was the epitome of Summer in the South. Ironically LC had actually changed his order to the squash, but it was a happy mistake.

We decided to forego edible dessert in favor of the liquid variety upstairs at JCT Bar. An acoustic guitarist entertained the crowd of thirty-somethings inside as the drizzle continued outside. A train chugged past as we headed to the car, anxious to get home and work off the surplus calories.

1198 Howell Mill Road 404-355-2252

Despite the heat, I love outdoor dining in the Summer. And LC likes to hear live music. So when considering our options for Saturday night, I conjured up a place with a patio and a band….Park Tavern. Plus, I had a craving for their tuna tacos and a bottle of cold unfiltered sake.

With its ideal location on Piedmont Park, the restaurant and its banquet rooms are a popular choice by brides for their nuptuals. We arrived to find a wedding in progress upstairs as well as a wedding reception in a tent by the park. As luck would have it, an entertaining cover band was playing inside the tent, so we chose a hightop table nearby where we could hear the music…and because those tables have comfy padded vinyl chairs.

Our server came by for our drink order and returned with LC’s margarita and hot filtered sake. I didn’t bother to taste it. We ordered edamame to nibble on. Her second attempt was cold filtered sake, so I gave up and ordered a glass of prosecco, which she delivered in a highball glass. Good Lord!

We enjoyed the soybeans, vibrant green against the white dish, as we watched the sunset. A stray bride made an appearance. And so did our order of tuna tacos. These little gems are made with fried wonton wrappers, filled with avocado, jalapeno slaw, and thick slices of seared rare Hawaiian sashimi-grade tuna, drizzled with wasabi mayo and sweet teriyaki. The quality of the tuna is evident….it melts in your mouth. A whisper-thin slice of fresh jalapeno garnishes each tiny taco (there are five per order), adding an extra kick to the sweet, salty, spicy dish. We love them!

When our server returned I ordered another prosecco, this time requesting a champagne glass. We followed up the tacos with a sushi roll called Dyno-mite, with tempura shrimp, spicy tuna, and avocado inside, topped with hamachi, crab, and spicy mayo. I usually shun sushi (say that 5 times fast!) with fried ingredients, but this one contained too many tempting elements to ignore. What goes better with sushi than onion rings? We got a side order, but it was only three huge ones, a little heavy on the breading.

We enjoyed the wedding party’s band and sipped our drinks while we waited for our sushi to arrive. Another bride whooshed by followed by three bright blue bridesmaids. The festivities captured the essence of the evening….romantic and optimistic. The sweet mood was contagious, prompting an impromptu proposal from LC.

So spur of the moment, in fact, that no ring was handy to make the words official. Guess we shouldn’t have eaten all three of those onion rings!

Turns out the tuna tacos aren’t the only thing we love.

500 10th Street NE 404-249 0001