Hot Dish Review

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE from Hannah Huffines at Concentrics:

Chef Richard Blais Opens The Spence in Midtown Atlanta

Helmed by Chef Richard Blais, The Spence, a partnership with acclaimed restaurant group Concentrics Restaurants, opened its doors over the Memorial Day Weekend. The Spence is a classic eatery that serves accessible, ingredient driven food to its surrounding community and beyond. Backed by an all-star culinary team including Adrian Villarreal (Atlanta’s JOËL and TAP) and Pastry Chef Andrea Litvin (New York City’s ABC Kitchen, Atlanta’s The Livingston), Blais displays his culinary strengths throughout on an ever-changing “pantry list” alongside signature dishes.

When asked about the title of his newest concept, Blais explains, “We were looking for a word that would describe the spirit of the design and offerings. We all landed on the word ‘larder’ simultaneously. After some research, my wife Jazmin stumbled upon the word ‘spence,’ a synonym for larder. We loved that it refers to a place where families would sit and eat together. In keeping with its many meanings, The Spence is about the contents of our pantry and coolers, our fantastic purveyors and specialized ingredient sources and sitting down to eat with family and friends.”

Dinner appetizers boast simple and fun dishes such as Asparagus, Duck Egg and Black Garlic ($7), Bone Marrow, Tuna Tartare, Quail Egg ($13) and General Tso’s Sweetbreads ($11). Entrées, like the appetizers, focus on primary proteins and vegetables. Options include Sea Bass, Miso and Green Peach ($22), Chicken Schnitzel and Cucumber Noodles ($16) and Porchetta, Celery Root and Mustard Sauce ($20). Sides such as Macaroni & Headcheese ($5), Bag O Vegetables ($4) and Braised Leaves & Tops ($3) round out the meal. Pastry Chef Andrea Litvin’s sweets perfectly compliment Blais’ savory options. A Malted Barley Panna Cotta with Sorghum ($5) and a Tahini Chocolate Mousse & Campari ($6) are surefire signatures.

The wine list, curated by Advanced sommelier Justin Amick, offers focused “Tried and True” and “Leap of Faith” selections from true artists across the globe listed in an increasing progression of acidity. The “Tried and True” section boasts classic wines, styles and regions that are more familiar and available in the marketplace like Oregon Pinot Noir, while the “Leap of Faith” section includes wines from up and coming wine regions/varietals like Assyrtiko from Greece. Amick, the recipient of the 2012 prestigious Rudd Scholarship from The Court of Master Sommeliers, has been featured in The New York Post, The Atlanta Business Chronicle, Sommelier Journal and, most recently, on CNN.com as part of the “new wave of vino pros.” Amick offers bold, unique and small production offerings that flatter Blais’ cuisine flawlessly.

Courtesy of acclaimed The Johnson Studio, The Spence’s design offers warm handsome design elements such as lacquered white brick, navy repurposed wood, cream tartans and zinc and pine tabletops frame the centrally located beverage and food “kitchens.” The Johnson Studio has been engaged in the design of hospitality projects for more than twenty years and they have designed hundreds of renowned restaurants including Atlanta’s TWO Urban Licks and TRU in Chicago.

75 Fifth Street NW

While dining at Old Heidelburg in Helen with LC and his parents last year, we saw kaiser schmarrn on their menu. It was listed as a dessert, and although clearly German, my Mom had never heard of it.

We didn’t order it but I have been curious about it ever since. Fast forward to last Saturday. I was visiting Mom in Helen. After lunch at Cafe’ International we strolled through town to a specialty food store called Euro Food where she planned to pick up some plum spread. They carry a strange little assortment of European products, mostly from Germany.

Among displays of chocolates and soup mixes I noticed some large packets….kaiser schmarrn mix with raisins. The shop’s owner described it as a large pancake generally eaten for breakfast. I was eager to try it!

The next morning I carefully read the instructions, which were in German, and prepared the mix with one egg and a cup of Lactaid borrowed from my neighbor LG. I heated and buttered my largest non-stick pan, poured the batter in, and crossed my fingers.

It began to bubble as I pondered how to flip this oversized “pancake”. Before long, it started to smoke so I grabbed my spatula, hoping speed would help it stay intact, and that I could flip it before it was scorched beyond recognition. Success! The next step was to chop it up while it continued to brown. If my German was better I would have realized that the instructions said to cut it into sections, then flip it.

I divided the finished product between two plates for me and LC and sprinkled it with powdered sugar. I served the kaiser schmarrn with turkey sausage patties and fresh fruit. Just slightly sweet, we finished it with a drizzle of faux maple syrup.

All I can say is wunderbar!

Euro Food is located in the heart of Helen, GA at 60 Chattahoochee Street. 706-878-5036

Cafe’ International is quite likely Helen’s most popular restaurant. Its patio by the river is unmatched, but the food has never impressed. The menu of sandwiches served with potato salad and chips reminds me of a picnic, not an international cafe. Spaghetti and lasagna add some Italian flair for the totally unadventurous.

Arriving in the midst of the lunch rush on a gorgeous Saturday, me and my Mom were pleasantly surprised to be seated almost immediately at a choice table, covered with a hideously printed and slightly sticky plastic tablecloth, along the rail overlooking the Chattahoochee. An endless stream of bright pink intertubes floated lazily along, carrying their screaming teenage passengers past the BBQ place, fudge shop, and tattoo parlor.

When in Helen I do like the Bavarians and eat some wurst. Mom and I split a platter containing a knockwurst, a bratwurst, and a smoked pork chop, served with sauerkraut and German potato salad. The meal also came with a side salad that she was craving, a shallow bowl of flacid iceberg with a few bits of cucumber and tomato. Sticking with the international theme, she got the Greek dressing.

Service was friendly and prompt. A warm loaf of dark bread was delivered along with the wurst platter. It’s the exact same bread they serve at The Highland Tap…soft rather than crusty. The brat’s casing had been removed giving it an odd texture, while the knockwurst remained tightly encased, making a popping sound when cut. Both had nice flavor. Overcooked and tough as shoe leather, the smoked pork chop was mediocre at best. Nothing like the ribbchen of my childhood, the pink chops heated with the sauerkraut, making the salty meat super tender. Sauerkraut was standard but the potato salad, which looked like it came out of a can, lacked the vinegary pucker and bits of bacon typical of the German style.

Considering the exorbitant prices of neighboring restaurants, our lunch was a good deal. Altogether, we were quite pleased with our visit to Cafe’ International.

8546 S. Main Street, Helen, GA 706-878-3102

Bhojanic is just around the corner from B’s house, so she has become a regular, especially since the owners have started showcasing live music on Wednesday nights. Gauruv, one of the owners, is a musician, and can often be found sitting behind his bongos, playing with several of the acoustic bands that have performed there.

B’s impromptu dinner invitation was perfect, both because I wanted to wish her happy birthday in person, and also because I thought the spicy Indian food might help relieve the congestion left from the cold I had a few days before. Not surprisingly, I was the first to arrive so I ordered a glass of red zin at the bar and watched the band set up.

Bhojanic’s menu is unique in that it offers a variety of tapas-size plates including the traditional samosas and chat, which is great for those of us that like to try several dishes without getting fat….or going broke.

B came with her friend AV and we took the table closest to the stage. It was getting late and I was ravenous so I took it upon myself to order some naan with tamarind chutney and raita for dipping. Raita, much like Greek tzatziki sauce, is made of yogurt and cucumber…a curious craving for me since I detest cucumber. Weird? Very.

We nibbled on the naan and listened to the band while discussing dinner options, deciding to share one appetizer and two entrees. For our starter we chose the Bhojanic shrimp, five huge ones flavored with tomato, garlic, and Indian spices.

AV wanted to try the chicken tikka masala. I laughed to myself remembering the frozen chicken tikka masala dinner from Ethnic Gourmet in my freezer that I would probably have eaten if I didn’t end up at Bhojanic. B suggested the lamb curry. We all agreed and raised our glasses for a toast to the birthday girl.

Two bowls arrived, their contents piping hot. The three of us scooped a bit of rice onto our plates, adding a spoonful of chicken first. Tender chunks of chicken were bathed in the creamy red sauce, fragrant with cardamom, cumin, and garlic. The lamb was even better with a darker, richer sauce that had a bit more kick….unfortunately not enough to clear up my sinuses!

With a second location opening soon next to Lenox Mall, Bhojanic’s homestyle Indian cuisine is becoming a staple in Atlanta.

1363 Clairmont Road, Decatur 404-633-9233

SEVEN HENS RESTAURANT DEBUTS IN DECATUR THIS JUNE

New Eatery Offers Chicken Cutlets with an International Twist

Michael Gurevich is giving Atlantans yet another reason to love fried chicken—in the form of schnitzel—with the opening of his new restaurant, Seven Hens. Gurevich, an Israeli residing in Atlanta, has devised a brand new concept that marries an age-old European cooking method with international cuisine in the form of a chicken cutlet. The upscale, fast-casual eatery will open in Decatur in mid-June to serve an array of schnitzel-style chicken dishes with flavors from around the world for lunch and dinner.

“Opening Seven Hens is my way of upgrading a food staple from my culture with the best flavors that different countries around the world are known for and offering it to Atlantans in a style that everyone loves,” says Gurevich.

The chicken at Seven Hens is served, for the most part, as schnitzel. The cooking technique includes pounding a chicken breast thin to tenderize it, dipping it in an egg-based batter and coating it with seasoned breadcrumbs that are inspired by exciting international flavors. The coated breast is then quickly fried to create a perfect golden schnitzel—a moist, tender chicken breast locked in a shell of crunchy, crispy tastefulness.

Guests of Seven Hens order at the counter where they either choose a dish from six suggested countries/ recipes—American, Mexican, Italian, French, Chinese, Indian—or go with a seventh option, The Traveler – a playful build-your-own alternative that allows diners to create endless possibilities of uniquely tasty meals. Then, guests decide whether to have a baguette ($7.95), wrap ($7.95), salad ($6.75), or a platter with two sides ($10.75). Side items include fries, chips or the Seven Hens salad ($1.95). The ordering process ends with the “finishing touch” selection where guests choose from an array of seven house-made dressings and even more spreads, sauces, toppings and cheeses inspired by world cuisine. Lastly, the chicken is sliced into strips using Seven Hens’ signature Mezzaluna knife in a performance-type manner in front of guests’ eyes.

Seven Hens is about honest food and quality ingredients including trans-fat free oil, the freshest produce available, and local, all natural chicken. The seeded white and wheat baguettes are baked fresh, according to a traditional recipe, at a local bakery and delivered daily. Seven Hens serves predominantly schnitzels but also offers dark meat, vegetarian (tofu) and grilled chicken options.

“My goal in opening Seven Hens is to create an eatery that is different and better than run-of-the-mill sandwich shops or other chicken restaurants by offering higher quality ingredients in an inviting venue,” says Gurevich.

2140 North Decatur Plaza

Riding the wave (pun intended) of trendy fusion tacos, this relatively new spot on the square in Marietta marries Mexican and Asian street foods to create a fun and flavorful menu. Think Takorea and Hankook.

The concept is simple, really. Take a typical Asian meat and sauce, like chicken with peanut sauce, and stick it in a flour tortilla, which unfortunately, is the only kind they have at Taqueria Tsunami. Asian is used here in the broadest sense with a variety of cuisines represented, from Korean to Chinese. Other creative dishes incorporate typical Asian ingredients like fried wontons to re-create Tex-Mex dishes like the nachos we shared on our recent visit with TH, our friend from Louisville, and her man D.

Topped with shredded Kogi BBQ short ribs, queso, fresh jalapenos, lettuce, and corn salsa, the nachos were crisp and light. Some cilantro would have made this great starter even better. We took turns licking the plate. We also tried the avocado cilantro egg rolls, a somewhat decadent combination of fatty avocado wrapped in wonton wrappers, then fried. Nevertheless, neither of these dishes was greasy.

We ordered a variety of tacos for our main dishes, thinking we could share them, but alas, they were pretty darn small. TH’s tiny Thai chicken taco looked lonely in the middle of her big plate. LC got the Baja fried fish taco as expected, along with the Aloha chicken because our server said it was the spiciest one on the menu. He also tried the jalapeno cheddar tots on the side. I ordered the Rich Man’s taco filled with grilled steak and the Rising Sun with Vietnamese pork.

Both of my tacos were tasty but didn’t have much zing. I requested a tiny side of guacamole to add depth. The steak would have been better wrapped in a corn tortilla. I made a mental note that a similar steak taco at Bad Dog Taqueria was superior.

Everyone devoured their tacos and guzzled their beers with smiles. None of us was impressed with the jalapeno cheddar tots that tasted of neither jalapeno nor cheddar. In fact, we concluded that both flavors were in the dip….isn’t that queso? That’s cheating!

Enjoying the balmy Spring evening at a sidewalk table, we felt a few drops of rain as we finished off our tacos. No worries, we would head inside for dessert. All three sweets offered sounded yummy. We ended up getting sopapillas to share and two orders of apple pear empanadas. It was sugar overkill, each plate arriving with a full scoop of vanilla ice cream. But we managed to munch our way through the plate of fried wontons, light as air, sprinkled with cinnamon and drizzled with honey….not your typical sopapillas. Each order of empanadas was not just one but two fried pies, crispy and full of fruit. We were happily stuffed.

With another location in Buckhead, Taqueria Tsunami is a solid contender in the fusion taco wars. So the next time you’re craving Thai food but your hubby wants tacos, you’ll know what to do.

70 South Park Square, Marietta 678-324-7491

Recently, I was invited to join the Atlanta Food Bloggers Society. Most of the city’s top bloggers are members so I was thrilled to be included!

Our meetings are, not surprisingly, are held at restaurants where we discuss the food and share tips and tricks on blogging. Often, the restaurant is happy to provide a few complimentary tastings to get us started, and of course, to win our favor so our posts will be positive. Ahhhh….delicious bribery.

A recent get-together at Double Zero Napoletana was a small yet diverse group of bloggers, some with their mates. I took LC along for an Italian feast at this newest venture from the Castelluccis.

Much like their Spanish restaurant in Decatur, Iberian Pig, and multiple locations of Sugo, the Castelluccis don’t skimp on servings here. They started our communal table with two beastly pork shoulder roasts called l’arrosto, each with an assortment of accompaniments. Baskets of thin, toasty bread, made out of pizza dough, served as makeshift pita pockets to be filled with pieces of the roast, so tender it fell apart at the approach of our forks. I chose grilled radicchio, apple-almond mostarda, and hot Calabrian chiles to pair with the meat. Chunks of carrot and potato added to the rustic appeal of this dish, easily large enough to share as an entree for two.

Another thing the Castelluccis do better than nearly anyone is provide a warm and inviting dining atmosphere. Wood tables are accented with modern stainless steel chairs. Intimate nooks are created within the large space by burgundy velvet curtains. But the focal point is the dim and sexy lighting achieved with rows of simple clear glass orbs.

My knowledge of Italian wines is minimal so I asked our server for a suggestion. He came back with a couple of tastes and I chose the richer one….from Puglia, I think. As you may know, I rarely eat Italian food. I am guilty of pigeonholing this country’s cuisine into the pasta with marinara category. But there are numerous regions of Italy that do not focus on this Americanized standard. The menu at Double Zero is proof, with a variety of meat and seafood dishes like polipo, for instance….the small plate of grilled octopus with sunchoke-pancetta hash and a vibrant asparagus puree that LC and I ordered was fresh and light with a vinegary zing. No marinara in sight.

As for our main dish, I felt compelled to order a pizza, as did many others. After all, the name of the restaurant refers to the finest grade of flour used in making authentic Neopolitan pizza dough. Grant and Marie of Marie, Let’s Eat! ordered the American, Marilyn of Atlanta Etc. tried the traditional quattro stagione, while our hostess and Atlanta Foodies blogger Becca shared the maiale with her husband. Perhaps even better than my funghi pie, the maiale was topped with braised Nueske’s bacon, mushrooms, goat cheese, arugula, garlic, and fig-onion agrodolce. It was rather sweet but so delicious.

Each pizza was baked in one of their custom-tiled woodburning ovens installed by Italian craftsmen and delivered to our table with a sharp pair of scissors for cutting slices, literally. The crust was thin, crispy, and notably charred, with just enough toppings.

Those that didn’t indulge in pizza raved about their selections as well, including a lamb meatball starter ordered by Leslie from The Food and Me and a mountainous salad shared by Megan of Meals With Megan and her guest, famed photographer Lou Freeman.

No meal with LC is complete without sugar! I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to have gelato and I was curious about their cannolis after the amazing ones we had at Antico. Made locally by Highroad Craft Ice Cream, we sampled a scoop of pistachio, coffee, and caramel gelato, all of which were a little too sweet and creamy to be authentic gelato, but certainly great for ice cream. Three small crunchy cannoli shells with a light and fluffy filling were delicious, but I prefer the big ones at Antico.

There is so much more to try at Double Zero. The menu is packed with chef Chad Crete’s signature rich and decadent dishes, from the lobster pappardelle to the short rib crespelle.

This blogger dinner was great fun! LC and I really enjoyed getting to know some of my fellow bloggers and their friends and look forward to meeting again soon.

5825 Roswell Road NE 404-991-3666

After three days at Churchill Downs, what more could a girl want than to stop at the casino and off track betting parlor on the way out of town? Having lunch there was just a bonus.

LC likes to make a pit stop at Kentucky Downs on our way home from Louisville, turning what could be a brief six hour drive into an all-day trip. We arrived right at lunchtime and were surprised to find the place completely renovated….and packed. Where there used to be blackjack tables there are now slot machines.

When it comes to gambling, I’m more of a spectator than participator. I’ve been to Vegas literally dozens of times without a single quarter going into a slot. LC, on the other hand, loves betting on the horses. There is, however, a distinct difference between this type of gambling and playing the slots. Betting on horses requires skill, not just luck.

We took a table, one of those traditional wood-grain laminate motel room dinette kind, in the new non-smoking section in front of eight flat screens, each with a different track, and waited for the lone server to come by to take our order. There was a set menu offered, with your choice of soup and sandwich, with a salad and baked potato. Rather fancy if you ask me! LC had the cheddar brocoli soup and the reuben while I tried the chili and grilled ham and cheese.

It was delivered like a three course meal, first the soup, then salad, then entree. My chili contained both meat and beans and had enough kick to keep my eyes open. LC was too distracted by his betting to actually taste his soup, using it later to flavor his baked potato. The salad was fresh and crisp, surprisingly not iceberg.

Both of our sandwiches were piled high with meat and cheese, then grilled. A little greasy, but perfectly acceptable considering our location. Baked potatoes were wrapped in foil, ready to be topped with to-go containers of sour cream and margarine….or soup, whichever the case may be.

We washed it all down with Miller Lites and continued betting until the funds ran dry.

The Kentucky Derby fell on Cinco de Mayo this year….an unfortunate coincidence. LC and I were the only two of our group going to the track for The Derby, however, we wanted to enjoy breakfast with the gang before donning our hats and throwing our (I mean his) cash away.

Our Derby trip hostess TH, a college friend of LC’s, often visits Wild Eggs for breakfast, and suggested we go there. The decor was bright and modern, with a partition cleverly made of plastic eggs encased in glass. We weren’t necessarily in a hurry, but the 45 minute wait for a table was a bit lengthy. The girls enjoyed mimosas and the gentlemen bloody Marys while we waited.

As a regular, TH knew our server well. Once seated, he delivered an enormous complimentary cinnamon roll for us to share, however we had to wait an additional 30 minutes for our coffee. Not a good start.

Folks love to recommend their favorite dishes to me when they discover I’m a food writer. Usually I go with my instinct, but on rare occassions, I take their advice….and then regret it. Unfortunately, my breakfast would prove to be a perfect example of the latter.

Several menu specialties have a Tex-Mex flavor including Kalamity Katie’s Border Benedict which TH said was the best thing she ever ate. I was in the mood for a benedict smothered with rich hollandaise so why not try it with a Mexican twist?

The menu described the dish as “green chili cheddar corn cakes, topped with chorizo, two poached eggs, queso fundido, pico de gallo, sour cream, green onions, and avocado”. Visions of crispy corn cakes, juicy slices of spicy sausage, poached eggs with creamy yolks, and chunks of avocado whirled in my head. I wasn’t sure about the queso sauce, described as “sauce like you put on nachos” by our server so I requested it on the side along with a side of hollandaise.

When the plate arrived, 80% was covered with potatoes. I have no use for potatoes and didn’t realize they accompanied the benedict or I would have made a substitution. Sadly, the corn cakes were thick and dry, there was a tablespoon of very salty crumbled sausage scattered on top, and my poached eggs were overcooked. The bits of avocado could have fit in a thimble and the queso was disgusting but, of course, there was no hollandaise. I had to wait another ten minutes for that. It was impossible to hide my dissatisfaction. Meanwhile, another damn cinnamon roll came out.

Like the horses racing by us at Churchill Downs, much of the food we ate was also a blur. We enjoyed decent boxed lunches from Lotsa Pasta on Oaks Day. During The Derby itself, LC and I got a lobster roll at one of the snack bars near the betting windows. Among all the ladies with hats were a couple of dudes with sombreros, reminding me that it was Cinco de Mayo.

In a futile attempt to have a decent bite of Mexican food, LC and I decided to stop at Senor Iguana’s on the way home. All we wanted was a table outside, a decent margarita and a few tacos. Too much to ask? You bet. There were no tables available on the patio so we sat at a hightop in the bar. LC ordered skinny margaritas, but the bartender had clearly never made one before, filling the tall plastic cup with soda after a shot of tequila and a squirt of lime juice. Horrific.

We fared better with the starters. Chips were quite good dipped in freshly made guacamole and queso (much better than the queso at breakfast) and there was a lovely dish of jalapenos to spice it up. Tacos were not offered individually so we got one order with fish and another with carne asada, all on corn tortillas. I requested cheese on the beef.

Our server brought out pork instead of beef but quickly remedied the error, although the advertised diced onions and cilantro were absent. Each taco was made with two somewhat soggy tortillas. I peeled off the unnecessary tortillas and added guacamole. An unexpected bowl of tasty red chili sauce was served with the carne asada which did a decent job of covering up the chewy, flavorless meat. Shoulda gone to Chuy’s.

Uncharacteristicly, LC didn’t win at the track. And Wild Eggs and Senor Iguana’s didn’t place.

The days leading up to my trip to Louisville were filled with pink dresses and frou frou hats. I was on a mission. Now all I had to do was find silk flowers, ribbon, and bits of crafty stuff to attach to the hats to make ‘em worthy of the Kentucky Derby.

After a rather brilliant hat purchase at Ross, I found myself ravenous. It was nearly 3:00pm and I just couldn’t imagine dealing with Michael’s without a bite to eat first. Luckily, there was Smashburger nearby, one of many, many new burger joints I had yet to visit.

Much like Yeah! Burger, guests order at the counter, however, the menu is a bit more limited….and less organic. It offers a few regular selections or you can build your own sandwich with an Angus beef pattie or a chicken filet with a variety of toppings to choose from. Too hungry to be creative, I went for the tried and true burger with cheddar, bacon, lettuce, and mayo.

It was hard to resist the sweet potato fries, but I kept myself in check. And thankfully too, since they are sprinkled with garlic. Why? I was given a number and took a seat in a booth. The bare-bones red and white decor fits the burger chain’s casual atmosphere. My burger arrived open-faced, all smashed flat and gloriously greasy, draped with melted cheese. Two thick and chewy slices of bacon formed a cross on top. After a couple of bites I discarded half the bun to save more calories. Make sense? If not, you are not a chick.

Good and fast….isn’t that what fast food is supposed to be? My last trip to McDonald’s drive-through (which by the way is the epitome of laziness) got me a dry, tasteless, filet-o-fish. If I stop by Smashburger again I’ll try the Spicy Baja burger or the Avocado Club. But before I do that, I need to try Five Napkin, Burger Tap, Grindhouse, and Farm Burger. Heck, I haven’t even made it to Ann’s Snack Bar and it’s supposed to be the best burger in the damn country!

With a burger in my belly, my visit to Michael’s was a success. The next day we were off to the races!

2625 Piedmont Road NE 404-237-2374