Hot Dish Review

During her visit, AD and I packed a year’s worth of drama in a week. Before taking her to the airport, we decided to find a restaurant nearby with a patio so we could enjoy the sunny day with a touch of Fall in the air, and enjoy a casual lunch while rehashing the events of her visit.

We decided on Cafe 640, formerly Cafe di Sol, who’s quaint patio faces a colorful section of N. Highland Avenue in the Poncey Highlands. The trees, flowers and tiny lights strung all around make guests feel like they are in a small town, but the sirens and occassional passing vagrant remind them otherwise! We chose one of the small tables near the street with the uncomfortable wooden slat chairs.

Should we have wine? Silly question. A glass of riesling for me, pinot noir for her. The three most expensive appetizers ($29 all together) sounded like an awesome clusterf*ck of flavor, perfect for sharing.

Delivered first were the panko crusted fried green tomatoes with New Orleans style BBQ shrimp. You know how I feel about fried green tomatoes. I rarely have a positive reaction to them, but often order them just to see how badly the kitchen can screw ‘em up. Of course the tomatoes were too heavily breaded, but they were not greasy. We could actually taste the tartness of the tomatoes, which was a great match to the sweet, plump shrimp.

A huge bowl of mussels and leeks in a red curry broth came out along with the “ropa vieja”, a dish of slow braised shredded flank steak on tortilla chips, then topped with a little melted aged white cheddar, fresh jalapeno slices, and drizzled with cilantro sour cream. In effect, Spanish nachos. Having just spent her last month abroad in San Sabastian, AD was interested to see how authentic this dish would taste.

The mussels were well-prepared, although I couldn’t detect much curry in the broth. That didn’t stop me from sopping up every last drop with the grilled slices of bread that were served with them.

In between slurping up shellfish, we tried the tortillas, each topped with copious amounts of tender shredded beef. The fresh, not pickled, jalapenos were fiery hot. We both loved it!

Not so pleased with the dryness of my riesling, I chose a malbec for my second glass, as did AD.

We enjoyed our lunch so much that I suggested LC and I dine there for an impromptu dinner the following week. Naturally, we had to order the ropa vieja. I knew LC would love the spicy nachos! To mix it up a bit we tried a house salad with a fantastic housemade balsamic, a stack of perfectly crispy onion rings, and a side of truffle mac ‘n’ cheese, bubbly and browned on top. A martini and a Guinness draft washed it all down.

But LC was still hungry, so we order the panna cotta to go. Needless to say, it didn’t even make it to the car. Sublime, light, and topped with fresh blueberries, we polished off the dessert in seconds.

640 N. Highland Avenue 404-724-0711

More Southwestern love….
Nava is like an old friend. I think about visiting yet rarely get a chance. But when I do, I’m reminded of why I love her. She is consistent.

Sure, menus that constantly evolve showcase a chef’s creativity, but there is something to be said for perfect duplication. You can count on the same bread, the same taco, the same fritters, even with a change in chef.

Nava’s Southwestern theme has remained intact over the years as well, with American Indian blankets, pottery, and exposed wood beams dominating the dining room.

Some dishes have been added recently to coincide with hot food trends, like their ceviche bar, a collection of six types of ceviche made with various fish and shellfish marinated with an array of accompaniments. And Nava hasn’t failed to join the taco bandwagon, with a whole section devoted to the craze.

Another example of sticking to what works is Nava’s green chile lobster taco. It was a Kevin Rathbun original and remains on the menu to this day. A simple combination of succulent lobster meat and a little cheese wrapped in a soft spinach tortilla, accented with cascabel cream, salsa fresca, then drizzled with tequila sour cream. I would have one for dinner, but first let’s start with the ceviche our group of four shared.

LC and I met our company’s marketing genius CF and business associate JH at Nava’s intimate bar inside. We considered checking out the patio bar but it was simply too hot. Instead we cooled off with margaritas, then headed to a sunny table by the window.

We chose two ceviches, one made with mahi mahi and jicama and the other with shrimp and jalapenos. Both were light and fresh. CF is from Mexico, and therefore a ceviche expert. Both of us loved the crunchy cubes of jicama combined with the citrusy fish. The guys made sure not a sliver remained in the dishes.

As LC tried to decide on an entree, the others had determined they would share a few things, including another ceviche and some tacos. Remaining true to form, I ordered the lobster taco. However, wanting to experience a little diversity, I also ordered the alligator taco with smoked bacon, candied jalapenos, and killer crema. It sounded fun, creative, and delicious, but unfortunately they had sold out. So, I got the smoked chicken taco, which I thought was the same as the one that used to be on the appetizer menu. When it came out I took a bite and realized that beneath the tender shredded chicken was a good bit of green chile grits. A drizzle of annato sour cream finished the taco, and despite my lack of love for grits, so did I.

Meanwhile, I had effectively coerced LC into ordering the only entree I had ever tried, the spicy jumbo shrimp. I remembered it was a rich dish composed of two small black bean and goat cheese enchiladas topped with big juicy shrimp. A pineapple scotch bonnet glaze provided heat. My fork kept finding his plate!

While CF and JH munched on their tacos and ceviche, I could hardly take my eyes off my lobster taco. I shared with LC, already feeling the heavy burden of cheese, tortillas, and the unfortunately awesome bread that our server delivered prior to our meal.

Nava is not authentic Mexican, but I think it’s safe to say that it is an authentic representation of new Southwestern cuisine. CF agrees, and she should know. Speaking of authentic, I have accepted her challenge to a guacamole making contest….aye carumba!

Another margarita for dessert and we were off in our shiny black limo for a night on the town.

3060 Peachtree Road 404-240-1984

A week before AD’s visit, I ran across a coupon for Agave, one of her favorite restaurants in Atlanta, and one that I’ve often mentioned to LC, but never visited with him. It was a sign. Now was my chance to revisit this Southwestern staple.

AD arrived with her former colleague DR, finding us already seated at a a table on the secondary patio. Chips and salsa were delivered quickly, but subsequent drink service was much too slow for folks craving tequila. LC and I tried the jalapeno skinny margarita, while they went with the regular variety.

LC and I prefer restaurants that aren’t shy about heat. Don’t you just hate it when a dish is described as “spicy” and it comes out bland? Or when you ask if it is spicy and the server assumes that is a bad thing and says something like “oh no, it’s not very spicy”. I always respond with “that’s too bad, I would have ordered it”. As delicious as Agave’s food usually is, I warned LC of Agave’s somewhat wimpy reputation in the spice department.

Traditionally, AD has always ordered the spring rolls to start and I had to have some guacamole. DR ordered ceviche that was beautifully presented in a martini glass, while LC was intent on trying the New Mexico hatch green chile stew.

The spring rolls, made with shrimp, cabbage, serranos, and roasted poblanos, are a crispy sweet treat, but I was truly impressed with the stew, thick with potatoes, onions, corn and tender chunks of beef….and it was spicy!

Every time I’ve eaten at Agave I leave stuffed. Too stuffed. Once, AD and I shared the spring rolls and a fish entree and we still had to be carried out on a stretcher. So on this visit I opted for an appetizer of grilled beef and shrimp. LC ordered the lone item that I wouldn’t even taste….meatloaf, while AD stuck to her favorite fried chicken. We got an additional side of poblano grits for sharing.

My dish was pleasingly petite, with thin slices of medium rare tenderloin and plump grilled shrimp. It was the huge dish of fiery grits that was my downfall. Ironically, AD’s chicken wasn’t as spicy as it had been in the past. LC enjoyed his entree and I was so engrossed with the grits that I don’t even remember what DR ordered.

Room for dessert? No way, Jose’!

242 Boulevard SE 404-588-0006

Atlanta’s first, biggest, and best foodie event celebrates ten years of gluttony! This year’s Taste of Atlanta starts tonight with a kickoff party called The Big Grill, featuring an appearance by celebrity chef Aaron Sanchez.

Over 80 area restaurants, and a few food trucks, will be offering samples Saturday and Sunday at midtown’s Tech Square. VIP tickets get you into the wine and cocktail tent where you can enjoy numerous alcoholic beverages….that’s where you will find me and LC!

Fall is the season for food festivals and cookoffs of every kind. I’ll be going to Taste of Atlanta on Sunday, but I’m saving Saturday for Swine & Dandy!

Swine & Dandy is a BBQ competition this Saturday October 22nd from 10am to 5pm benefitting several charities in the Duluth area, organized by pro golfer and good ol’ Georgia boy Stewart Cink. My company, Cooper Global Transportation, is running a couple of shuttle buses, so park off River Green and we’ll take you over to Rogers Bridge Park to enjoy what promises to be a gorgeous Fall day while you pig out on pork and fixin’s.

The event is FREE, and the food is for purchase from restaurants and independent BBQ fanatics. Check out the link for more details and directions. LC and I are looking forward to eating some Q for charity!

Rogers Bridge Park, Duluth

Just one of 80 restaurants participating in Taste of Atlanta October 22nd and 23rd!The Niyomkul family is to Thai food in Atlanta what the Bastianich family is to Italian food in New York. Charlie and Nan have given us an authentic taste of Thailand for many years with Tamarind (now closed), Tamarind Seed, and Nan.

Now their daughter DeeDee is at the helm of their latest operation, Tuk Tuk Thai Loft in the Brookwood Hills shopping center. Her focus is on street food, some of the same dishes her grandmother prepared as a street food vendor in Bangkok years ago.

Entering the tiny lobby, one is greeted by a shiny new motorized rickshaw, called a tuk tuk, complete with orange and white leather seating. It is surely a prop for many visitor photo opps, especially after a few drinks.

From there, guests take an elevator to the third floor which opens to reveal a gorgeous space, a brilliant renovation from its former incarnation as Taurus.

Greeted by Thaddeus Keefe, chef DeeDee’s fiance’ and business partner, he gave me a brief tour of the dining room and kitchen, each element brought from Thailand and painstakingly chosen by the couple. Speaking of their decision to open Tuk Tuk, Keefe quipped “We were going to get married but ended up having a baby instead (laughing)”.

Seated by the manager CY at a table next to a large shelf filled with Asian cookies and such in metal canisters, B and I ordered a bottle of red wine. We both loved the restaurant’s sleek decor with dark wood tables and elegant lighting. Each table had one odd chair. Naturally, I chose to sit in the lone tapestry armchair which was quite low, requiring CY to bring me a booster cushion without missing a beat. The staff was just that accomodating throughout our meal.

B joined me for a menu sampling that started off conservative but ended in full-on gluttony. Thaddeus recommended small tastes of several starters, beginning with a single serving of a popular street snack called mieng kum, beautifully presesnted on a spinach leaf with chopped peanuts, lime, ginger, onions, and coconut, the flavor of each ingredient clear and pronounced.

An assortment of skewers were presented, two each of beef, pork, and mini beef meatballs, suspended from a metal frame with dipping sauces below. Both B and I favored the beef with the tamarind chili sauce. A side of sticky rice in a tiny bamboo steamer reminded me of the sticky rice I used to get in New York, the size of a baseball, wrapped in plastic wrap.

The third item from the menu’s small plates was the hoy tod, a crispy omelette with mussels recommended by friends on Facebook. Sounded interesting, but with most things described as crispy, it was battered and fried. It was topped with scallions, cilantro and “three flavored chili sauce”. However, I found the main flavor of the sauce to be sweet. Somehow, I think I would have preferred it un-fried.

Thaddeus suggested yum woon sen, a salad composed of minced seafood and chicken on cellophane noodles with fresh lime, onions and a touch of palm sugar. The sliced raw cabbage served alongside reminded me of larb, however, diners aren’t expected to wrap the meat in the leaves. I really enjoyed the spicy salad with the fresh, crisp cabbage…..yum! (pun intended)

Another recommendation from Thaddeus was the kra pow moo made of minced pork with Thai sweet basil and garlic. A mound of rice on the same plate was topped with a battered and fried egg. B and I like our Thai food spicy as hell. With each subsequent dish, we found the heat becoming more and more intense.

For our final savory dish we chose the Panang curry, substituting shrimp for the beef. Rich and spicy, the fragrant curry was excellent over the jasmine rice, full of plump shrimp.

Long before our visit I had read their menu online. The Bangkok snow cone caught my attention. It sounded like my favorite Vietnamese dessert made with shaved ice, coconut milk, red beans, and jellies. Nothing could stop me from ordering it, not even the six courses I had just consumed!

Well, I wish someone had stopped me. The Bangkok snow cone was horrific. An enormous bowl of shaved ice was drizzled with a bright pink “rose syrup” that tasted like cherry. My experience with red beans in Asian desserts is the sweetened canned variety, however, these were regular beans, and I swear there were garbanzos in there too! Texturally, the jellies were good but could not overcome the abomination of the dessert as a whole.

Please go to Spice Market and order the Thai jewels for a delicious riff on the traditional Asian dessert made with shaved ice. Or better yet, go to any Pho house on Buford Highway and point to the picture of a parfait on the menu for the real deal.

DeeDee suggested the coconut tapioca pudding. B wanted fried bananas too. So the kitchen combined the two for a decadent treat that we both loved!

1745 Peachtree Road 678-539-6181

An Oktoberfest favorite!
Once again, the signs for hot boiled peanuts on the way to Helen proved to be too tempting to pass by. ST and I stopped at my favorite stand on the way Saturday.

Dale has lots of signs. Coming from both directions, headed to or from GA400, it is hard to miss his hot boiled peanut stand. With two pots bubbling away, one regular, one cajun, we pulled over for a snack.

ST wanted the cajun. Good idea. Dale scoops them up in a giant styrofoam cup and provides a paper sack for the shells. Inside the sack are a couple of tiny Bible scripture booklets….classic. Eating them while driving (the peanuts, not the scripture booklets), however, proved to be quite challenging. ST said my driving became rather ‘iratic’. Whatever. No one died, that’s all that matters.

I wish I had taken a photo of his cat, a beautiful fluffy black boy that his grand-daughter named Hello Kitty Penny Dale….I swear, it’s true.

The cajun peanuts were delicious….just a hint of peppery spice. We finished them off when we arrived at my parents’ place in Helen, with a nice, cold Miller Lite. An appropriate start for the weekend!

Last night, a group of food bloggers descended on four Midtown restaurants that will be dishing up samples at the 10th annual Taste of Atlanta, October 22nd and 23rd.

When I was contacted by event founder, Dale DeSena, I was excited, not only to be invited to participate, but also because my company, Cooper Global Transportation, was chosen to provide the luxurious chauffeured transportation to drive us eaters around town!

Our group of 25 bloggers, Brave PR staffers and Dale herself, started at JCT Kitchen, welcomed with a couple of signature cocktails that captured the essence of Autumn. The scarecrow was made with pumpkin ale, spiced rum, brown sugar chai and orange. Myself, and a few others, found it heavy on the cloves. But everyone seemed to enjoy their signature martini the JCTea, a mix of tea infused gin, Grand Marnier, lemon, Fee Brothers orange bitters.

Two big platters of delectable morsels were placed on the communal tables, photographed like starlets by the hungry (literally) blogger paparazzi, as Chef de Cuisine Brian Horn described the selections. Then we each grabbed a plate and a bite of each….the pork belly appetizer I was hoping to try and a taste of pasta from their entree selections. Crispy chunks of pork belly sat upon fried slices of banana and frissee, dressed with peanut sauce. Amazing! Even better was the sweet onion and fontina agnolotti, dressed with crumbles of Humboldt Fog and shitake mushrooms, wittily described as “expensive” on the menu. A great start to the TOA Tweet-Up!

On to our second restaurant, Ri Ra, an Irish pub in Midtown. The enormous space is striking, constructed with pub salvage from County Wicklow near Dublin, including ornate crystal chandeliers and intricate woodwork.

Our server took drink orders, so I tried a Young’s Double Chocolate Stout. Platters of beer battered fish with two dipping sauces were placed on each table. After a few photos we were ready to dig in but the platters were inexplicably taken away to another table for serving. It was curious that they served us fish without the chips. One of the bloggers’ companions….not even a food writer, mind you….noted that there was no seasoning on the fish. Indeed, it was apparent in the first bite that salt was omitted. The sauces did little to perk up the flavor.

We boarded the Cooper minibus and made our way to Tuk Tuk Thai Loft, owned by Dee Dee Niyomkul, who’s family owns Nan Thai and Tamarind Seed. The space is gorgeous. Inspired by the street food her grandmother used to sell in Bangkok, Dee Dee recreates these dishes with great success. Our group was served lychee mojitos, which I skipped but heard was great.

Servers appeared with platters of tastes, many of them disappearing before we could get our cameras out. Chicken satay and Thai vegetable samosas to start, then a platter of miniature spinach leaf wraps filled with minced chicken, peanuts, onions, and ginger. My personal favorite was the Thai beef jerky with sticky rice and cilantro. Chef DeeDee came out to chat with us after we had sampled many delectable dishes, making for a memorable visit.

Everyone was feelin’ good, and having a great time getting to know each other! Our last stop was The Barrelhouse, a new gastropub on 5th street. Tennessee barn wood covered the walls, making for a warm and casual atmosphere. A cocktail called fruit cup was offered, made with vodka, simple syrup, cherries, pineapple, mint, and soda.

A tiny hot dog bun was delivered, filled with meltingly tender beef short ribs. It was a little dry, but the flavor was fantastic. I gave my little cup of banana pudding to a fellow blogger, anticipating a sweeter dessert as I texted LC, who was arriving from Texas via the Marta station nearby. Perfect timing!

Don’t miss this year’s Taste of Atlanta on the streets around Tech Square….with more than 80 restaurants participating you won’t leave hungry!

In the midst of AD’s whirlwind visit, we managed to spend an evening just hangin’ out. I put together a spread of cheeses and accompaniments and opened a bottle of 2009 Edmeades, a deep spicy red zin who’s earlier vintages used to find their way into my home quite often.

A chunk of standard gruyere, another of 2 year aged gouda with a crunchy texture, and some leftover overly ripe Humboldt Fog were plated with dried figs, honey, slivered almonds, and raisins. A bowl of red grapes and a few toasted slices of Trader Joe’s ciabatta and raisin toast rounded out our spread.

The last time we were together was in Rio nearly twenty months ago, so there was a lot to catch up on. There was plenty of wine, and a little bit of whining about men and money, as the second bottle was uncorked….or rather, unscrewed (always start with the good bottle!).

Cheese was devoured, cigarettes were shared, roaches were thrown off the balcony. Just like old times.

Todd English – Free Signing of Cookbook at The Cook’s Warehouse

WHO: Todd English, author, Cooking in Everyday English:
The ABCs of Great Flavor at Home
WHAT: Visits The Cook’s Warehouse, Ansley Mall

English, an award-winning chef, famous restaurateur and television personality, shares his secrets to creating simple but memorable dishes by exploring unique flavor combinations using readily available ingredients. Cooking in Everyday English offers home cooks a modern guide to basic entertaining.

WHERE and WHEN: Monday, October 17, 2011, signing from 5 – 7 p.m.
The Cook’s Warehouse – Ansley Mall

Space is limited. Registration link for FREE signing here.

1544 Piedmont Road NE (404) 815-4993