Hot Dish Review

Once again, our group went out for breakfast. This time LC opted to join us rather than eat our leftover pancakes. I mean flapjacks. Whatever.

Naturally, the kids ordered sugar, in the form of French toast for little T and a cute bear shaped pancake for little A (note the actual ice cream scoop of butter!). The adults tried a smorgasbord of fat-laden breakfast items like cheese grits with butter, sausage and Southwestern omelettes, country ham, and the ubiquitous pancakes, slathered with butter and syrup. It is common knowledge that I hate cake. Same goes for pancakes….I just don’t care for anything fluffy, doughy, or cakelike. I do like crepes, though. That’s what my Mamma used to make!

I must commend Flapjacks for their healthy menu section. I almost ordered an egg white omelette, but instead was drawn to the bacon and egg sandwich on toasted sourdough with lettuce, tomato, and mayo. Unfortunately, I failed to notice the sandwich lacked the all-important cheese.

But it would have sucked even with cheese. I have a thing about toasted bread. It should be crunchy, not soggy. It should be toasted! This sandwich was slopped on soggy sourdough. The copious amount of chewy bacon was awesome, so I ate it with the fried egg, lettuce, and tomato.

Luckily, I also ordered an extra-crispy waffle to be brought out after I ate my sandwich. It was delivered right on cue. I like my waffles almost burnt, so this one could have used another minute in the press. Dipped in syrup, it was a decent breakfast dessert.

Flapjacks is homestyle country cookin’, which in these parts, is the only kind of cookin’. Just put a pat of butter on it, honey.

2734 Parkway, Pigeon Forge 865-908-6115

This is one of those events that I would not believe existed if I didn’t see it with my own eyes. Imagine….a packed stadium of 1200 guests watching a wild west show complete with horses jumping through rings of fire and lumberjacks pitted against each other in friendly competition.

Our group of six sat a few rows back….a better view and less smell from the horses, according to DC. Indeed, I would prefer not to smell manure while eating. Dinner is prix fix and served without utensils. From the folks we talked to at Dollywood, both the ride operators and the visitors, it was clear that food in Pigeon Forge would be best if it didn’t require chewing. Attention: all dentists please report to the Smoky Mountains!

Here’s how the Dixie Stampede works: you have a choice of Pepsi or iced tea (would you like some tea with your sugar, sugar?) a creamy vegetable soup is poured from a pitcher into a bowl with a little handle. It tasted like cream of mushroom to me. Another server placed biscuits on each plate with practiced speed.

Shortly after the last sip of soup was slurped, the bowls were whisked away and replaced by a whole rotisserie chicken, which sits all alone on each plate until it is joined by half a potato. Moments later a dry slice of pork joins in, then a half ear of corn on the cob. All the while, horses are pulling wagons with cowgirls singing along to country tunes, all recorded by, you guessed it, Dolly Parton. If there was a story line, I wasn’t paying attention, only that the opposite side of the stadium represented the North, while our side was for the South. Good.

Horses galloped, a woman from the audience was hidden in a barrel, and everyone tore their chickens apart by hand. The skin was not crisp so I pulled it off, picking off bits of leg and thigh. With meat under my nails, I took a big gulp of my tea before gnawing the kernels off the corn cob. The tasteless potato was simply filler. In fact, the entire dinner was filler, designed to entice the hungry masses to see a show at dinnertime.

Our plates were cleared as we packed up the leftover chicken in a doggie bag. The show continued as another wave of servers came by with dessert, huge apple turnovers that could have browned in the oven a few more minutes, but were nonetheless hot and crispy.

At the conclusion, a huge video screen appeared with Dolly singing a patriotic song in a sequined red, white, and blue costume. Yes, it was a spectacle to behold.

Speaking of spectacles, I almost forgot the buffalo! A small herd of well-trained buffalo made a special appearance….don’t ask me why, I can’t explain it.

The show, including food service, was complete in 1 1/2 hours, like clockwork. Also, no photos are allowed so I only took nine or so. Notably, there is no alcohol served during the Dixie Stampede, so make sure to get liquored up beforehand. You’re gonna need it.

LC and I arrived in Pigeon Forge in the Smoky Mountains late Saturday and met up with his daughter little T and her aunt DC, her daughter little A, and lifelong friend C at Cirque de Chine, a Chinese acrobatic show….a poor man’s Cirque de Soleil, after which we had a late dinner at TGI Friday’s. Grilled shrimp and veggies was the least offensive menu item which LC and I both ordered. I was proud of him for abstaining from the fried cheese sticks!

DC had rented a great condo for us at a resort with its own lazy river. We had a full kitchen, laundry, and balcony overlooking the golf course. It was really very comfortable. The next morning, LC slept in while us gals headed down the street to the Red Rooster Pancake House, a well known breakfast place on the main drag.

Flapjacks. Pancakes. Whatever you call ‘em, they are a staple for breakfast in Pigeon Forge. Pancakes come with everything on the menu at Red Rooster. You want ham and eggs, honey? That comes with an order of pancakes. How about an omelette with cheese grits? Ditto on the pancakes.

Our group ordered a variety of dishes including C’s Southwestern omelette and little T’s strawberry pancakes. I had a boring yet somewhat healthy plate of scrambled eggs, bacon, and wheat toast with butter on the side (instead of pancakes!). DC ordered her favorite, country ham, grits, and eggs scrambled with cheese. Plenty of pancakes went home for snacking later.

The day would be spent at Dollywood, riding every ride. And later that night we were in for a real treat….Dolly Parton’s Dixie Stampede.

And to think, a year ago I was staying in a $4000 a night condo in Cabo San Lucas overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, eating lobster and drinking champagne.

Have I lost my mind? I’m sure of it.

3215 Parkway, Pigeon Forge 865-428-3776

Change is good, but it’s good to know some things never change. Often, when restaurants “improve” a recipe, they ruin its integrity. Surin’s beef salad is an old favorite. BH and I used to get it to go while at work, taking a break from the rigors of designing.

Last week I had a craving for it and stopped by Surin on North Highland for an order to go. I always request it without cucumbers and with a side of rice to soak of the spicy juice under the lettuce leaves.

Thin slices of beef are arranged on top of chopped romaine, with red onion, scallions, tomato wedges and cilantro. It is a traditional dish, one of only a few Surin actually makes quite spicy….as good as ever!

It’s canning time again!Farm to table is the hottest trend in dining. It’s funny because that’s how I grew up, eating vegetables right out of our garden. We would pick squash, beans, okra, tomatoes, cucumbers, corn, and whatever else was ripe, and cook it for dinner that day. Now that’s sustainable, organic, and local!

Of course, there was a surplus of some vegetables. My Dad intentionally planted more green beans than we could eat so we could can them for the Winter. I have great memories of days spent stringing beans in the backyard under the big old apple tree with my Grandma.

She taught my Mom the art of canning. Using a pressure cooker and Mason jars, it was a Summer ritual. Years later, my parents still plant a garden every Spring. But with their time split between Tennessee, Helen, Georgia and Florida, they’ve downsized the plot, only planting the necessities.

But there were still enough green beans for my Mom to can a batch or two this year so I snagged a couple of cans. As delicious as always, I ate the whole jar by myself!

More News from The Reynold’s Group: For Immediate Release

Locals Have Something New to Crave

Seasoned chef brings big flavor to small plates with debut of Crave restaurant

ATLANTA (July 21, 2011) – This summer, Atlantans can explore a new Midtown spot with the August opening of Crave, a progressive restaurant and lounge serving small bites that pack a punch. Owned by partners Peter Anand, Richard Brett and executive chef Chad Guay, Crave blends international ingredients with Southern roots in an edgy space on Ponce de Leon Avenue.

Centered on the idea of creating original tasting plates and sandwiches, Crave is positioned to become a low-key backdrop for locals and business professionals looking for signature cocktails with light bites or casual dinners among friends.

“Our philosophy for Crave is simple: we use fresh ingredients to determine the menu, and we prepare them in a way that creates a global feel,” said Guay. “It’s our mission to bring the best service and highest quality products to Atlanta and create a restaurant that is established as a neighborhood favorite.”

A graduate of the Art Institute of Atlanta and a Concentrics Restaurants alum, Guay draws his culinary inspiration from the ingredients themselves and continues to taste dishes repetitively to dissect the complexities of their components and reinvent them in innovative ways. Melding his background in Southern cuisine and a love of international seasonings, Guay serves stand-out small plates such as ricotta gnudi with brodo, heirloom tomatoes and mint; peekytoe crab tian with salt and vinegar potatoes and celery cream; seared sea scallops with beluga lentils, eggplant and olive oil and lamb loin with pistachio scented polenta, broccolini and apricots.

Raising the bar on the midday meal, Guay has crafted innovative sandwiches that shine including a B.L.T. with Pike Street bacon, butter lettuce, heirloom tomatoes, pepper Jack cheese and a fried egg on Pain de Champagne and a pork belly sandwich topped with cucumber, cilantro, pickled radish and harissa mayonnaise. As a well-trained pastry chef, he aims to impress with desserts such as roasted Georgia peaches with white chocolate semifreddo and pistachio caramel corn and blueberry Clafoutis with lemon balm sorbet and basil syrup.

“We are excited to bring a versatile restaurant to Midtown Atlanta where locals can gather for a laid-back meal or meet for drinks,” said Anand. “The neighborhood is eclectic and possesses a lot of character, and we want Crave’s space to exude that same aura.”

Inspired by Atlanta’s Midtown neighborhood, the interiors of Crave are a balance of sophisticated and edgy design. The restaurant’s focal point is the wrap-around bar boasting an ivory granite bar top encircled with frosted glass along the bottom. A back wall will feature four exclusive craft beers with decorative, ornate beer taps. The bar area is flanked on one side by a casual lounge and other by the cozy main dining room. Soft lighting casts an intimate glow of amber, blue and gold hues through modern bulbs encompassed in decorative hanging glass fixtures. The walls are adorned with antique-inspired mirrors, and wooden tables and high-back chairs complete Crave’s retro-chic decor.

239 Ponce de Leon Avenue

News from Alyssa at The Reynolds Group:

FLIP named Best Lunch by Maxim Magazine in Food + Drink Awards 2011

ATLANTA (July 18, 2011) – FLIP is proud to announce that Maxim magazine has ranked it the nation’s best lunch in the “Five Best Lunches” category of its 2011 Food + Drink awards! This annual list compiles the best breakfasts, lunches and dinners nationwide as voted on by chefs, celebrities and Maxim readers. FLIP was named for its gourmet kobe beef burger and its krispy kreme and nutella + burnt marshmallow milkshakes. Check out the online article here and pick up August’s Food + Drink Awards issue.

FLIP is a modern hamburger boutique offering “fine dining between two buns.” The menu, developed by concept chef Richard Blais, redefines the classic hamburger. FLIP has been featured in The Wall Street Journal, Food & Wine magazine, The New York Times, CNN and Forbes.com. Located on the Westside of Atlanta at 1587 Howell Mill Road, at the Summit Birmingham at 214 Summit Blvd in Alabama, and in the Buckhead community of Atlanta at 3655 Roswell Road, Suite 300, FLIP is a contemporary space that incorporates elements of fine dining with a creative, raw energy. Open for lunch and dinner daily from Monday – Thursday 11 a.m. – 10 p.m., Friday – Saturday 11 a.m. – 11 p.m. and Sundays from 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.

Hola seniors y senioritas! Mexican food is my favorite, with Vietnamese coming in a close second. When authentic, both types of cuisine are spicy and incorporate lots of cilantro! But it’s hard to find the real thang without a drive to Buford Highway.

I love to sit outside in the sweltering heat of Summer, sipping margaritas, dipping corn chips in guacamole and cheese dip, and maybe having a taco or two, authentic or not.

There’s an abundance of tacquerias in town that claim authenticity, like No Mas Cantina, Pure, El Taco, and Zocalo. And there’s our old standby, Nuevo Laredo, that serves fresh and basic Tex-Mex.

And then there’s El Azteca. Now with six locations from Ponce to Dunwoody, you can count on weak margaritas with lots of sour mix and an array of standard Texican offerings, from enchiladas to burritos.

The recent onslaught of competition has made them amp up their game, adding skinny margaritas made without sour mix and freshly made guacamole to their menu. Good idea. The quality of chips varies from location to location….sometimes they are thin and greasy, straight out of the fryer (my favorite), while at other times they are thick and cold as if they came out of a bag.

But it’s cheap. Me, little T, LC, his sister, and her brood of boys met at one of the Alpharetta locations a few days ago, choosing a big table in the middle of the patio. We started with cheese dip with jalapenos to go with the automatic delivery of chips and salsa. This batch of chips was disappointing, but the cheese dip was the perfect consistency and nicely spicy. We washed it down with skinny margaritas on the rocks with salt.

That would be the only spicy dish of the evening. El Azteca serves Mexican for the masses. Wouldn’t want to scorch aunt Sally’s mouth with fiery salsa, would ya?

Our last El Azteca experience at the Roswell Road location was a bad one, having shared a combo fajita platter…a combo of chicken, shrimp, beef, and salt. Lots of salt. So this time, both LC and I changed it up. He ordered a chicken and shrimp quesadilla and I tried the chicken tacquitos appetizer.

The shrimp in his quesadilla were plump, with sufficient cheese to glue the tortilla together, but it lacked spice. It was served with all the goodies on the side. We forgot to request jalapenos but it didn’t stop him from cleaning his plate.

My plate was comprised of three corn tortillas, filled with chicken, rolled up and fried and presented on a bed of shredded iceberg and topped with sour cream, guacamole, and pico de gallo. I asked if they had cheese inside and was told yes, but I couldn’t find any, so I added a bit of the remaining cheese dip. Crispy and not too greasy…..not bad for $4.95.

As for little T, she ordered two beef tacos and deemed them “flavorless”. She lives in Austin so she can take the heat.

Nacoochee Grill is one of those restaurants where I’ve eaten dozens of times. It is located in Helen, Georgia, where my parents live part-time and at least one of them has accompanied me on each of those visits. Sometimes a friend of mine, or theirs, joined us, but my last meal there was with LC on our way back to Atlanta from Lake Burton.

We were passing right through downtown Helen at dinner time so I talked him into going to Nacoochee. The last time we went to Helen we tried to eat there, but the wait was an hour so we opted to go elsewhere. But on a Sunday night we had better luck….if you can call it that.

I like to sit in the original dining room on the right, a space with lots of windows in this renovated old house. This time, however, they sat us in the brightly lit room on the left. The downhome atmosphere seemed to be lacking in this somewhat sterile room.

A look at the menu brought more disappointment. The new owner had changed the menu, taking off many signature dishes and adding pedestrian crap like chicken wings. Sure, I understand the redneck appeal of wings, but Nacoochee was the one restaurant in town that had elevated itself to serve “cuisine”.

There used to be fantastic entrees like jerked mahi mahi with mango salsa and Asian glazed duck. Each entree was served with a choice of two sides, including Southern favorites like collard greens and baked sweet potatoes. We always got a salad as one side, served with their amazing honey balsamic dressing.

Well, now the entrees only come with one side. Thankfully, they still make their signature house dressing, but the salad is a fourth the size. LC had one with his blackened tilapia, but now the entrees only come with one side, so his piece of fish sat alone on the big plate, save for an XL serving of green tomato salsa. Just sad. However, the fish was seasoned and cooked perfectly over their live fire grill.

But first, we ordered an appetizer, something me and my parents never do. LC wanted to try the grits fritters, a combination of grits and cheese lightly breaded and fried, then finished with a drizzle of mustardy sauce. They were surprisingly not greasy, the crisp shell holding a sublime and creamy filling.

Another old favorite was the French country salad. I’ve had it often for lunch with my Mom. Field greens with blue cheese, walnut halves, onions (which I remove), and big chunks of chewy bacon, with bacon vinaigrette. I decided to have it for dinner, topped with grilled shrimp.

The plate of leafy field greens was nearly as big as before, topped with plenty of blue cheese crumbles. Two skewers of flavorful, plump grilled shrimp distracted me so I didn’t notice the lack of bacon until it was too late. Tiny bits of walnuts didn’t compare to the big halves that used to adorn this salad. On the contrary, there was no shortage of raw onion which I failed to have left off. House honey balsamic dressing was as good as ever.

Knowing what Nacoochee Grill used to be, and what it is now, just makes me sad. I think it’s called sellin’ out.

7277 South Main Street, Helen 706-878-8020

It was a muggy morning on Lake Burton. Standing on the balcony overlooking the north Georgia mountains, I swear the humidity was 150%.

LC and I made our third visit to The Chophouse at LaPrades Marina, and despite the humidity, chose a tables on their expansive balcony overlooking the lake. A gentle breeze made it rather comfortable.

Service was unhurried, however, I would have preferred my coffee delivered with speed. Their abbreviated brunch menu was hand-written on a piece of notebook paper, but offered something for everyone….a sweet option of pecan pancakes, a hearty steak and eggs plate, a simple scramble with veggies that LC ordered, and the perennial brunch favorite of eggs benedict, a rich dish I cannot resist.

Their benedict was made the traditional way, with ham and poached eggs on toasted English muffins, topped with hollandaise sauce. Its simplicity belies the multitude of things that can go horribly wrong with this dish, from overcooked eggs to watery sauce.

The Chophouse delivered a solid rendition of this classic, served with mixed fruit on the side. Cantaloupe and strawberries are the norm, and what the table next to us had, but my mix contained only watermelon and cantaloupe. I love watermelon, but I’m allergic to cantaloupe, so I requested some strawberries, which our server cheerfully brought out. I had also added a side of chewy bacon and extra hollandaise to my order, doubling the cholesterol content and doubling the yummy goodness!

LC’s egg dish was far less exciting, a scramble of eggs, peppers, mushrooms, onions, ham, and cheese. I couldn’t detect any cheese, either visually or by taking a bite. It came with breakfast potatoes and a dry, dense biscuit. Our server didn’t bring any butter or jam, so he dipped the biscuit in my hollandaise.

Three cups of luke-warm coffee later, we were ready to hit the winding road back to the condo for a strenuous day of watching golf on TV.

1488 Highway 197, North Clarkesville 706-947-0010