January 12, 2011 at 7:04 pm , by Serina Patrick
Months following our first visit to The Sound Table, B and I stopped in for a late dinner after our official Christmas celebration….yes, two weeks late. We chatted with owner Darren Carr, then took the only table available to find an (almost) entirely revamped menu, due to new chef Brendan Keenan. Chef Shane Devereux developed the original menu with lots of Asian influences but is now spending more time at Top Flr.
A few original items remain such as the popular Oaxacan hanger steak and Spatchcock grilled chicken, most likely because they have cool names (LOL!). Seriously, the steak is killer. Me and B could not resist its tender temptation, pairing it with Brussels sprouts. At Darren’s suggestion we tried the sunchoke puree. A new dish, the grilled quail, also got my attention. We decided to split the four.
They closed the upstairs dining room early so this would be our first time eating downstairs. I really like the minimalist space. We started with a glass of red wine each, B choosing the better of the two, then laughed about the Christmas gifts we exchanged earlier in the evening as we waited for food to arrive.
A small square cast-iron dish was delivered, full of Brussels sprouts roasted with shallots, Benton’s bacon, and sherry vinegar. Damn. Who would have thought that Brussels sprouts could be orgasmic? As good at Top Flr’s, no doubt.
We ordered our steak medium rare, and like last time, it was on the rare side. Arbol chili marinated, and served resting in a pool of pico de gallo, there is no shortage of flavor here.
The grilled quail, however, was an odd bird indeed. Puzzling how it was listed under salads. Three slices of the quail’s leg and thigh were devoid of skin and served on a crispy grits cake that was substantial yet somewhat flavorless. Wilted greens alongside looked and tasted like bok choy and a sauce described as pomegranite balsamic wasn’t much more than a smattering of seeds. The sum of the parts was less than I expected.
Sunchoke puree sounded like an offbeat dish that would elicit oohs and ahhs much like Miller Union’s farm egg in celery cream. The poached egg was there but that’s where the similarity ends. There was a strange aftertaste that reminded me of dishwater, but B didn’t seem to notice. Perhaps it was the earthiness of the roasted mushrooms?
This new menu shares a lot of common ground with Top Flr’s quirky small plate concept yet lacks that definitive wow factor. One thing’s for sure, music is still on the menu. They were crankin’ up the funk as we were checking out.
483 Edgewood Avenue 404-835-2534
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