Hot Dish Review

With lines out the door every Summer, one might think the gelato at Paolo’s in the Virginia Highlands is an authentic taste of Italy. Paolo Dalla Zorza has indeed captured the atmosphere of so many tiny gelato shops in Europe, but I have often been disappointed with his product.

Having visited Europe on numerous occassions, I am a total gelato snob. When I’m in Germany I walk down to the gelato shop on the corner every freakin’ day. It has been owned and run by the same Italian family ever since I can remember. They go back to Italy in the Winter and return to the small town of Solms in the Spring to serve up authentic, amazing gelato.

Sometimes I think it’s the ingredients that make it impossible to duplicate here in the states. Other times I attribute the lack of authentic gelato here to the makers trying too hard to please the American palate with copious amounts of sugar and cream instead of milk. Then it’s ice cream, not gelato.

Paolo’s has enjoyed ten years of success due to its perfect location, a tiny space which is surely the lowest rent in the neighborhood, and the insurmountable draw of sugar to the kids on this very family-friendly street. There is now a second location in Charleston.

LC and I stopped in after our snack at Goin’ Coastal since it is right next door. It had been a couple of years so I was ready to give Paolo another chance to win me over.

Paolo’s offers authentic flavors like gianduia and zabione. My favorite is straciatella, basically vanilla with chocolate shavings. In Europe this simple composition takes on a more complex nuance, some intangible quality that makes it taste so much better there than it does in the U.S.

We ordered one waffle cup with a scoop of straciatella and one of espresso (I think). The texture of the espresso was too creamy, like regular ice cream, and also too sweet. I was quite pleased with the straciatella and I loved the edible cup!

His menu also includes crepes and creative treats like vanilla gelato extruded in strings and topped with strawberries. Called “spaghetti eis” in Germany, it’s a sweet take on the traditional pasta with marinara.

In Germany they use very small scoops pronounced “bellschen”. My regular order? “Ich moechte zwei baellchen von straciatella und eine von dem nuss, mit sahne bitte!” That’s straciatella and hazelnut with real whipped cream.

Seems like everyone’s in the gelato business these days. Whole Foods makes a totally bastardized version.

At least Paolo is trying to do something authentic, just wish it tasted a little more like the real thing.

1025 Virginia Avenue 404-607-0055