Hot Dish Review

The drive from Crystal River, Florida to Atlanta is about seven hours. I know this because my parents bought their “winter place” there last year, which was my first Thanksgiving wearing shorts. I thought that would be weird, but hell, it’s always awesome to be able to wear shorts and sandals….LOVE IT!

A lot of thoughts randomly occured while driving home last night, monotonously coming upon small Georgia towns, and trashy truck stops….”who the hell lives in Smarr?”, “should I follow the guy going 120 mph, he must have a radar detector”, “can you imagine the strippers at the truck stop strip joint?” Or the endless memories brought on by the music I play, both teen stuff and more recent goodies like the visual from “Dirty White Boy”….Mmmmm, can’t wait to see mine!

In case you don’t know (and why should you?), Crystal River and nearby Homosassa are home to the manatees. We visited the state park where I saw some of these prehistoric critters. The photo shows one eating kale.

Me and my Mom made our traditional turkey, cornbread dressing, green beans, sweet potatoes, and cranberry sauce, apple crumble, all healthier versions than most folks. I find that I can stuff myself without feeling nearly as nauseous when the fat and sugar content is reduced….hooray!

Last year, on the drive home, I treated myself to my annual (OK maybe it’s more like quarterly) Krystal cheeseburgers. It was a miserable torrential downpour almost the entire drive, through the interstate construction and in the dark, with an ornery cat crawling over me and under my feet. Me and the Bunny ate our Krystals in my car in the parking lot, both of us scarfing them down with the rain all around us.

So, I’ve decided this will be our tradition. No rain this year. We went through the drive through ordering four cheese Krystals, one with bacon. A few months ago I got one with crispy onions. Both extras sound delicious but anything, and I mean anything, other than the standard ingredients of beef(?), cheese, onions, mustard, and greasy steamed bun really fuck up the whole thing.

Surprised that a food writer loves Krystals? I have a long history with the burger of white trash legend. I grew up where they originated, in Chattanooga, so I grew up eating them. I hated ground meat as a child so Krystals were ideal….the meat was almost invisible!

Then there was the time my highschool lover and I were forced to say goodbye. His parents were moving to Florida or Pennsylvania or something and we were drunk, crying, making out. The beer made me hungry (it was “more than a feeling”), so we got Krystals to go. Not a pretty sight, me crying, drunk, and eating Krystals sitting on the curb in the culdesac in his parents’ neighborhood.

The Krystal on North Druid Hills was me and my college roommate’s regular 4am alcohol absorption stop after many long nights out at the Metroplex.

Fast forward to tonight, me and my fluffy child chowed down. She acts like a starving street pussy when she smells Krystals, but only ate a couple of pieces of meat(?) before she commenced to barfing in the back seat. Lovely. She already took a dump in her litterbox. That’s what I get for letting her roam freely in the vehicle.

I enjoyed them, however, and hit the road again to the tune of Chris Isaak’s “King of the Highway”. If I had a little girl, I think I’d have to name her Crystal….or Krystal.

It has been a while since I’ve dined at Serpas, so I was thrilled to get a chance to go with AD, on her last night in Atlanta, accompanied by her injured dude NC.

The restaurant was packed at 8:45 on a Friday night. Modern industrial chic describes the space, with a huge mural of cotton on one wall, exposed brick on another, all cozied up with soft lighting. Chef Serpas can be seen expediting orders and chatting with customers in a non-frenzied manner.

Tuna is not my thing. However, AD loves it. Contrary to all logic, I love it at Serpas too, having tried it at the media dinner. Diced ahi, green apple, and onion are dressed with a chile sesame dressing, the perfect marriage of sweet and spicy, served with huge homemade potato chips, and a big serving of gratuitous cleavage.

A bottle of cava was well-priced so we started off with a sparkling toast to AD’s upcoming worldwide travel adventure. I will be meeting her, perhaps in Chile, so we decided to follow up the cava with a bottle of pinot noir from Cono Sur.

We also agreed on the crispy duck rolls. I’ve had them on every visit and always love them, filled with rich and flavorful pulled duck, each piece resting in a sweet and spicy chili syrup. I wish we could have had the eggplant hushpuppies and Scott’s signature oysters too, but I had to save room for the house salad and entrees, who’s descriptions define comfort food.

Chef Serpas has a knack for sauces and dressings. The Serpas house salad is a perfect example, just simple fresh field greens, candied pecans, and goat cheese, dressed with a blistered grape vinaigrette….a little sweet, a little tangy, just plain awesome!

Although chef Serpas is from Louisiana, he includes a few Asian inspired dishes, like the duck spring rolls, that are extremely successful. I’ve had the jumbo sea scallops served with bok choy on a perfectly executed panang curry.

On this visit the three of us decided to split two entrees. The duck breast, stuffed with Andouille sausage was served with an “open faced vegetable relleno”. I’m still confused about that, but I can tell you it was made with Brussels sprout leaves, chilis, mushrooms, and raisins. All sat upon a slightly sweet and savory sauce that complimented the crispy skinned duck and vegetables.

The short ribs with pappardelle reminded me and AD of the amazing dish we used to get at The Globe (R.I.P), but its presentation was entirely different. The beef was not pulled but served as a chunk atop the large paste squares with a scrumptious sauce with roasted shallots, asparagus, and sunchokes. The meat was so tender it easily fell apart as we dug in with forks, making “yum” sounds as we cleaned both plates.

Bread pudding you say? Hell yeah! I like mine not drenched in sugary sauce so I requested the bourbon cream sauce on the side. Not too sweet….just right!

I just love Serpas. Scott Serpas is a genuinely nice guy and, in my opinion, ranks among the top five chefs in Atlanta (possibly even the best?). There’s no pretense with the food, the chef, or the location. Perhaps it’s his play on sweet and spice that I love so much. Or his masterful sauces and dressings. It certainly lives up to his “True Food” name.

659 Auburn Avenue at Studioplex 404-688-0040

Having recently had a little “procedure”, I’ve been stuck at the homestead all week, full of hydrocodone. Since my plum puff pastry project was such a success with the help of some valium I thought this would be a good time to roast some butternut squash and apples.

I had purchased pre-cut butternut squash at Trader Joe’s, having heard that cutting it was a perilous task. JJ, one of my colleagues, had made this recipe with pumpkin pie spice and it looked delicious! I made my own bastardized version with the addition of some onions and a few savory spices.

My kitchen smelled great and the flavor was subtly sweet and a bit spicy….the perfect Fall side dish! Here is my impromptu recipe:

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND APPLES

1 18 oz. container of cut up butternut squash
(note: I cut the pieces a bit smaller)
2 large apples, cut into cubes
1/2 cup Vidalia onion cut into large pieces
2 tbsp. olive oil
cinnamon
red pepper
curry powder
fresh black pepper
allspice

Toss the cut squash, apples and onion with oil in a shallow glass baking dish. Add spices to taste (I used only a dash of the curry) and roast for 45 minutes in a 350 degree oven.

I thought the texture of the apples didn’t quite hold up to that of the squash, might add them halfway through baking next time. This could be great with turkey for Thanksgiving with some dried cranberries and pecans tossed on top….yum!

From Mary Reynold’s PR machine:

(HotDish Note….How many restaurants can be based upon sustainable local produce? I have not visited Miller Union, yet, so this is not an endorsement, just news folks. If you have tried it, let me know what you think!)

Miller Union Now Serves a Seasonal Harvest on Atlanta’s Westside

Atlanta restaurant industry authorities Steven Satterfield and Neal McCarthy open Miller Union

ATLANTA (November 12, 2009) – Serving an evolving menu defined by the offerings of local farmers, Miller Union is now open on Atlanta’s Westside, welcoming Atlantans to enjoy the natural flavors of the season’s freshest fare. Established Atlanta Chef and Co-Owner Steven Satterfield leads the kitchen, while experienced General Manager and Co-Owner Neal McCarthy directs the front of the house, creating a seamless dining experience defined by sustainability. Miller Union’s unique dining space sits on the site once occupied by Miller Union Stockyards, contributing to the revitalization of Atlanta’s Westside.

“At Miller Union, we allow the season’s ingredients to lead us in the creation of an ever-changing menu,” said Satterfield. “We are confident that the dining concept will thrive in one of Atlanta’s most dynamic neighborhoods that is developing a culture of artistic creativity and outstanding dining.”

The Chef

Allowing the season’s natural harvest to define his menu, Co-Owner and Chef Steven Satterfield is inspired by the offerings of local farmers and respects their produce with simple preparation. Like the farmers from whom he sources his ingredients, Satterfield is adept in his craft and has a grasp of the subtle nuances of each ingredient’s flavor profile. Satterfield’s distinctive approach to preparation highlights the pure flavors of the ingredients while also showcasing his beautifully presented, innovative combinations that redefine southern-inspired fare. The previous executive sous chef at the acclaimed restaurant Watershed and member of Georgia Organics, Southern Foodways Alliance, Green Foodservice Alliance and Slow Food Atlanta, Satterfield is deeply connected to Atlanta’s progressive culinary industry.

The Cuisine

Miller Union’s constantly evolving menu celebrates sustainable southern-inspired fare simply prepared to emphasize quality and freshness. A simple, rustic style defines the preparation at Miller Union where uncomplicated methods benefit the flavors and textures of purely delicious ingredients from Georgia and the Southeast. The menu develops organically based on the dairy, meat, cheeses, herbs and produce of local farmers, offering guests a unique culinary experience at every meal including the special family style dinner that Satterfield will host each Tuesday. The cuisine incorporates tastes of the South, embracing a culinary genre that offers a vast and diverse bounty every season. Sample menu items may include simple fresh salads, farm egg baked in celery cream with rustic bread, roast guinea hen with autumn squash and local greens and Georgia apple tart with burnt honey ice cream.

The Décor

Coupling the character and richness of its Westside Atlanta history with modern design, Miller Union was transformed by Atlanta-based architecture and interior design firm ai3. Weathered woods, steel windows, pantry cabinets and patterned wall coverings create an intimate and welcoming atmosphere. Bound together by the rustic modern theme, the 70-seat interior and covered patio offers guests a range of dining experiences. Whitewashed 14-foot cabinets throughout the indoor dining spaces showcase Miller Union’s unique wine list and provide an ever changing backdrop to each room.

Located at 999 Brady Avenue, Atlanta, Ga., 30318, Miller Union serves dinner Monday through Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. Call 678.733.8550 to make a reservation, or visit Miller Union online at www.millerunion.com for more information.

I love Thai food. And I like it Thai hot. Really. Yes, I am a blond American chick but I can eat hot fuckin’ food, don’t patronize me with half-ass spicy, that just pisses me off. I heard Spoon was the real deal, not dumbed-down for Americans. So I took my friend/roommate/neighbor LG for her birthday.

The chef Aim (surely short for something as there are no three letter words or names in Thailand) Suteeluxnaporn and her sister Sujaree own Spoon, the original location on Marietta Street and the new one on Moreland just past Little 5 Points.

The space is modern with dim lighting and partially exposed gray stone that made it feel like a cozy neighborhood joint. Walls are decorated with original art that the sisters picked up in their travels to Thailand.

I wanted to try everything on the menu from the curries to the stir-fries. Basil rolls? I’ve eaten them everywhere and have had them prepared by Vietnamese family of friends, so authentic is what I know and like. I usually get a spicy basil seafood dish at other Thai restaurants like Mali, but really wanted to sample some curries.

On my first visit LG and I tried the basil rolls which were surprisingly vegetarian….no pork, no shrimp. In fact, they were skinny little things with extra thick skin, carrot, basil and not much else. The sauce, however, was spicy, topped with crunchy ground peanuts. We also had the tofu corn cakes. Two thick cakes were served with a sweet and spicy sauce. Topped with fresh cilantro, the cakes were so fluffy and light, really unusual and delicious. LG had the house salad which I found entirely unremarkable.

We started with a riesling and a cold unfiltered sake (nigori). LG ordered the mildly spiced massamun curry with chicken and I tried the roasted duck in red curry. I ordered it hot but not Thai hot, however, I didn’t think there was much spice in it. The sauce was very tasty, as was the massamun, just not spicy. My duck was crispy and tender, dark and gamey. The dish was complimented with lychees.

Most Asian restaurants do not have good desserts. Spoon certainly surpasses everyone in this department. Blueberry chocolate spring rolls are served with coconut ice cream. I’ve heard the chocolate caramel mousse is fantastic but we opted for the mango sticky rice with a pumpkin mousse and green tea ice cream. I love the texture of sticky rice, miss it from the days in NY when it was delivered in a ball of Saran Wrap along with the chicken soup. Really sticky, you can eat it better with chopsticks!

Green tea and azuki ice creams are among my favorite flavors, and it was a great compliment to the sticky rice, as was the delicately sweet pumpkin mousse. We were stuffed!

I’m really looking forward to trying some of their other Thai standards like the beef salad, panang curry with shrimp and the spicy basil stir fry….maybe for lunch next week. I’ll update on subsequent dishes!

Eastside, 749 Moreland Ave 404-624-4713
Westside, 768 marietta St. 404-522-5655
www.spoonatlanta.com

Has anyone else noticed that a new breed of frozen yogurt purveyors has suddenly sprung up all over Atlanta?  Each seems to be a carbon copy of the next, even some of the names are similar…..YoForia, Yoreka, Yogurberry. 

Selling themselves as a healthy alternative to ice cream, and rightly so, the flavor is a bit tangy, like plain yogurt, unlike TCBY which actually tastes more like a soft-serve Dairy Queen cone.  Not that that’s a bad thing, I grew up on TCBY and still eat it regularly despite the onslaught of new frozen yogurt venues. The difference is that these yogurts have live cultures in them, TCBY does not.

With flavors like Taro, Green Tea, Mango, and Pomegranite, there is a definitive Asian slant.  In fact, Yogurberry is based in Korea with a dozen stores in California and spreading eastward at a rapid pace.  The toppings are somewhat Asian inspired offering mocchi and lychee. All three of the above-mentioned brands have Fruity Pebbles and Cap ‘n’ Crunch.  Coincidence?  Probably not.  There is a strong emphasis on fresh fruit toppings, no syrupy, gloppy fruit here. 

Calories range from 97 to 125 for a 5 oz. small serving, that is if you can stay away from the high calories toppings!  Great for those of us obsessed with weight and calories.

Despite its healthy fruitiness, I just don’t like Yoforia. Their chocolate chips are too big, the flavors are short on, well, flavor, and I’m not really into fruit toppings. At Yogurberry I went totally Asian and had the taro yogurt with mocchi and lychee. Interesting, but I longed for my white chocolate or cappuccino at TCBY with chocolate chips and mixed nuts. I’m looking forward to trying Yoreka soon. The staff there is really cool and I think their chocolate chips are small like TCBY’s (and yes, this really matters to me!)

Just a couple of months ago yet another one opened in the Highlands called Juicygreen. I stopped in today to give it a try. Lana, one of the partners, was on hand to answer questions. They serve gelato, smoothies, coffee, and frozen yogurt. I tried a sample of each flavor and really liked the green tea. It had more flavor than at some of the other spots.

There is a general wave of health oriented offerings hitting fast food venues….from low-calorie, low-sodium meals at recognized national chains like Macaroni Grill, Chilis, and others to restaurants devoted to healthier alternatives like Evos, Dressed, and Robeks. And that, my friend, is a good thing!

Upscale boutique hotels are springing up all over Atlanta, from midtown’s Georgian Terrace to the newly renovated Ellis Hotel downtown. Each one has a restaurant that serves the hotel guests breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It would seem as though that alone would provide automatic success to these restaurants, however, it isn’t enough to serve out-of-town guests, they need to draw in locals to stay afloat.

The Terrace is serious about local, sustainable produce. Much smaller in scale than Mennie’s Livingston, it is probably easier for chef Joel Young to maintain this level of excellence. B and I recently stopped by the W Downtown to see Bill Hallman and his new cocktail dresses for the waitstaff at the Lobby Bar, then proceeded on to The Ellis for dinner.

Our hostess allowed us to choose our table as the place had pretty much cleared out by the time we arrived. The restaurant does indeed have a terrace, probably fabulous for breakfast and lunch, but a bit chilly for dinner so we sat inside in the adjacent intimate dining area. Chef Joel joined us, chatting about his background and love of local and sustainable dining.

Not a difficult task here in Atlanta with numerous farms providing fresh produce and locally grown proteins to our prestigious restaurants like Woodfire Grill, Dynamic Dish, Livingston, and many more. Chef Joel visits the farmer’s markets each day to find the best of ingredients for the menu at The Terrace, which automatically gives the menu a bit of Southern flair despite chef’s Connecticut roots.

B and I were two hungry chicks upon our late arrival. We started with the Terrace crab cake and sweet potato ravioli. Served upon a large mound of sauteed spinach and muchrooms, the ravioli was almost an entree portion for me, sweet and savory. The crab cake was stellar, exhibiting very little filler and very much chunky crab. But it was the accompanying salad that received my adoration…..just a simple citrus vinaigrette with a sweet note, awesome.

A wonderful bottle of Colores de Sol Malbec was spicy, peppery, yet very smooth and drinkable.

We opted for two entrees, the flatiron steak and the Amish chicken, and two more sides, collards and mac and cheese. Their beef is grass-fed….a big deal to me, having interviewed Bill Kurtis (the dude with the kickass internet commercials right now) who owns a grass-fed cattle ranch in Kansas called Tallgrass. Cattle was meant to eat grass, not corn, so the grass-fed beef is totally free of antibiotics to treat illnesses brought on by grain diets and also naturally rich in Omega 3 fatty acids. We ordered it medium rare, served sliced on a bed of caramelized Vidalia and carrot slaw. I loved the slaw. There was a copius amount so I took it home, having it the next day with sausage balls!

The Amish chicken was served with mushroom risotto. With a crisped skin and tender meat, the chicken was flavorful and paired perfectly with the creamy risotto. B said the collards were some of the best she had ever had (hey, this coming from a Southern girl!), they were mellow and smoky with bacon. The macaroni and cheese was topped with bread crumbs and baked with Lamb Chopper from Cypress Grove in California, the maker of my favorite Humboldt Fog. What could be better? Not a damn thing.

Dessert was determined even before the entrees….bread pudding? Yes sir! I love it, as long as it is not covered with a cloying syrup. True to form, Chef Joel presented a dense bread pudding with raisins, sliced fresh pear beneath it to cut the richness. We also tried the apple cranberry crumble which was so delicious. But the serving was definitely for sharing….enormous! The homemade vanilla ice cream on top was great.

I know folks are daunted by going “downtown”. Stop being a pussy! Parking is valet, the food is phenomenal, the setting is romantic. And if you drink too much you can always get a room there.