October 19, 2009 at 1:36 pm , by Serina Patrick
Glenwood Park, located just off Moreland and Memorial, is a miniature environmentally friendly live/work/play development designed for easy walkability. My first visit to the neighborhood was with B, to dine at The Shed at Glenwood. So close to my condo, but for the directionally challenged like myself, a world away. The streets were peaceful, clean. There was ample parking beside the restaurant.
Simply outfitted in concrete and wood, the Shed is modern yet warm, due to the dim, romantic lighting….a great spot for a hot date. Cindy Shera, the owner, greeted me and we chatted a bit about her restaurant career and the chef, Lance Gummere.
B was a bit late so I munched on popcorn (they bring out a bowl instead of bread) and checked out the menu which was a little different from the online menu, keeping up with the seasonal ingredients that change frequently.
The buzz here, among foodies, is the chicken hearts. I grew up eating them, although usually just one at a time (a bowl full means a barnyard of dead chickens so I ate the one that came with the one chicken my Mom cooked, go figure). Anyway, it would be thrown in the pan with the gizzard and liver. I always liked the chewy, sinewy gizzards too. Chicken livers, however, not so much.
When B arrived we decided on some appetizers to share. The chicken hearts are pan fried and served alongside an egg in a basket. That is, a piece of Texas toast with a hole cut out in which an egg is soft fried. It would be an awesome hangover breakfast! We also ordered the butternut squash soup which was classic and comforting. B loves oysters so she got four. I ended up eating two because the sauce was so good…..was it bearnaise, hollandaise? I’m not certain but I think even dirty socks would be delicious dipped in it.
Much like his mentor Shaun Doty, chef Gummere likes his offal and includes a chicken liver bruschetta (which we did not have) and a foie gras torchon. Not my favorite preparation, torchon means it is made into a terrine, not seared. Served chilled with a warm apple jam and country bread, the flavor was rich and rich.
The wine list included an old favorite, Steel Stymie. It’s a merlot that drinks a little more like a zin and is not offered by the glass so I had to order a bottle. No worries, with the new liquor laws in Georgia, one can recork a bottle and take it home, in the trunk of course. I was thinking this might happen since I had already had a bottle of Lambrusco earlier in the day, then a couple of beers. Our fabulous server Paul patiently brought out several tastes of other selections for us.
For entrees (yes, we ate all this and then entrees and desserts too!), B ordered the grilled ribeye, medium rare, with jumbo lump crabmeat and roasted brussels sprouts. If you are a regular reader you know by now that we both love brussels sprouts! Although B said the steak was cooked beyond medium rare (it was), the flavor was still delicious, the pairing of crab and brussels complementing the beefiness. And it was enormous.
I went for the crispy pork belly, served with polenta and organic baby turnips. Reminiscent of duck skin with the fat beneath its crisp surface, the savory pork skin concealed the juicy and rich meat. The theme of the evening: fat. But don’t let my appetite for it deter you….one can eat light at The Shed too. Diver scallop ceviche, roasted beet salad, chicken salad stuffed banana peppers to start or the chicken breast with local okra and stewed tomatoes. Speaking of tomatoes, they showed up on my pork dish. Not that I don’t like tomatoes, I do. Love them in fact. But not with meat, especially fish. So my polenta was flavored with tomatoes, overpowering my baby turnips. I was hoping the turnips would be braised or browned, maybe with some Vidalia for sweetness. I always like a touch of sweetness with pork.
The lack of sweet accompaniment with my meat was well compensated for by way of a trio of desserts. Four little chocolate peanut butter bars, and a fluffy homemade ding-dong couldn’t compete against the warm cream cheese brownie with homemade vanilla ice cream….we couldn’t stop eating it!
The Shed at Glenwood 475 Bill Kennedy Way www.theshedatglenwood.com 404-835-4363
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