October 12, 2009 at 2:54 pm , by Serina Patrick
Serving up love in the Old 4th Ward! The restaurant is hard to find, in what is still a relatively sketchy neighborhood, but I always leave happy that I came.
Each of my visits have been solo for lunch. It was probably Cliff Bostock’s rave reviews that peaked my interest in visiting a vegetarian restaurant because I am certainly a carnivore. But it sounded as though the chef/owner David Sweeney was a daring entrepreneur who’s reinterpretation of vegetarian dishes was vibrant and creative.
His dishes are made with meticulous precision. You will never find limp greens in your salad or less than perfectly ripe pears, apples, or flavorless tomatoes….locally sourced, impecably prepared. The prices reflect this diligence, but as is so often the case, you get what you pay for.
Last Friday found me in the neighborhood so I stopped in. I particularly love the space on a sunny day given the entire front is windows. It feels so fresh, clean, healthy. Every table was occupied by two diners but it is commonplace to share here, so I sat with a couple of guys that said ‘fuck’ even more often than I do (if that’s possible).
Never knowing what will be on the menu I was thrilled to see Sweeney using every Fall ingredient I love, making my decision a difficult one. I could not pass up the sweet potato soup with chestnut, coconut, and cinnamon raisin croutons. Brought out by my favorite server (Stephen?) with a piece of fresh bread from Magnolia Bakery, unfortunately with caraway seeds, but I still nibbled on it anyway. I was hoping the soup would have a bit more sweetness, especially with the addition of coconut, but it was the cinnamon raisin croutons that really made it for me.
Along with the soup I had half a salad of radicchio, frisee, escarole, Gala apple, sunflower seeds, spring onion, and feta. In hind sight I would have just had a whole salad, it was fabulous! Different than other salads I’ve had at Dynamic, this one was almost a chopped salad, every component perfectly intregrated and balanced.
My first meal here was a salad of arugula, pear, and candied pecans topped with a mini round of warm Bucheron. That was probably over a year ago and I still remember it! Damn, it was good. I really need to get my ass over there for pizza night on Saturdays….I hear reservations are necessary, keep in mind the space is quite small.
Due to the seasonality of the menu, it changes daily to include what’s at market. Sweeney’s background in catering healthy meals in Germany translates here into a concise blackboard menu of a salad (sometimes two), a sandwich, a bowl or plate of vegetables, a soup, whatever works best with the ingredients at hand. There are some sweets like dark chocolate, almond stuffed dates for a dollar and a small selection of organic cookies, some wheat-free options, coffees, and teas.
So go……you’ll feel good inside and out!
427 Edgewood Avenue Closed Sundays & Mondays 404-688-4344 www.dynamicdish.net
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