Hot Dish Review

Helen, Georgia is known for its Bavarian facade and mostly Americanized German fare like bratwurst and sauerkraut. There are also the ubiquitous and decidedly un-German funnel cakes.

However, for the past nine or so years, visitors have had another more upscale option, Nacoochee Grill. The atmosphere is country casual in a remodeled old house next to the Habersham Winery. But the food is high quality, which is reflected in prices higher than average for the area.

Under new ownership the menu has undergone some changes recently, although I can’t complain. They had a seared foie gras special a couple of months ago that was fantastic and only $13, a bargain by Atlanta restaurant standards. I enjoyed it as my entree with one of their baked sweet potatoes and awesome salad on the side. (see my earlier post Foie Gras and Hot Boiled Peanuts in Helen, GA)

My parents and I have had dinner at Nacoochee numerous times, my Mom usually ordering the grilled Szechuan glazed salmon and my Dad sticks with blackened or grilled fish of some variety. I’ve been known to have the duck, pork chop, skewered shrimp and scallops, or fish, depending on my mood, all of which are served with a choice of two sides.

I’m very picky about my salads. I eat one almost every day. The side salad here is pretty standard field greens and often includes a few icky wilted leaves but I still love it because their signature honey balsamic dressing is delish!

Other sides served are slow simmered collards, sweet corn pudding, baked sweet potato with cinnamon butter, garlic cheese grits, smashed potatoes, and more, all with a sophisticated Southern accent.

Fried chicken, fried seafood, steaks, and pasta dishes round out the entrees while venison chili, smoked trout chowder, fried calamari, and crab cakes can often be found on the appetizers list. I’ve had the crab cake sandwich, sans bread, as a light lunch and it is pretty tasty.

However, my favorite lunch item is the French Country Salad. My Mom and I used to split it and get another dish like the above-mentioned crab cake or the smoked trout chowder, but recently we’ve taken to ordering two of the salads…..we love it that much! Made with field greens, it is topped with copious amounts of gorgonzola, walnuts, thick-cut bacon, and a few slices of apple and onion. It comes with warm bacon vinaigrette (pretty much just bacon fat which is naturally delicious), but of course, we opt for the house honey balsamic dressing.

Their wine list is mostly from neighboring Habersham Winery. Despite Nacoochee’s lack of German cuisine, do have the riesling, it’s a sweet deal!

Glenwood Park, located just off Moreland and Memorial, is a miniature environmentally friendly live/work/play development designed for easy walkability. My first visit to the neighborhood was with B, to dine at The Shed at Glenwood. So close to my condo, but for the directionally challenged like myself, a world away. The streets were peaceful, clean. There was ample parking beside the restaurant.

Simply outfitted in concrete and wood, the Shed is modern yet warm, due to the dim, romantic lighting….a great spot for a hot date. Cindy Shera, the owner, greeted me and we chatted a bit about her restaurant career and the chef, Lance Gummere.

B was a bit late so I munched on popcorn (they bring out a bowl instead of bread) and checked out the menu which was a little different from the online menu, keeping up with the seasonal ingredients that change frequently.

The buzz here, among foodies, is the chicken hearts. I grew up eating them, although usually just one at a time (a bowl full means a barnyard of dead chickens so I ate the one that came with the one chicken my Mom cooked, go figure). Anyway, it would be thrown in the pan with the gizzard and liver. I always liked the chewy, sinewy gizzards too. Chicken livers, however, not so much.

When B arrived we decided on some appetizers to share. The chicken hearts are pan fried and served alongside an egg in a basket. That is, a piece of Texas toast with a hole cut out in which an egg is soft fried. It would be an awesome hangover breakfast! We also ordered the butternut squash soup which was classic and comforting. B loves oysters so she got four. I ended up eating two because the sauce was so good…..was it bearnaise, hollandaise? I’m not certain but I think even dirty socks would be delicious dipped in it.

Much like his mentor Shaun Doty, chef Gummere likes his offal and includes a chicken liver bruschetta (which we did not have) and a foie gras torchon. Not my favorite preparation, torchon means it is made into a terrine, not seared. Served chilled with a warm apple jam and country bread, the flavor was rich and rich.

The wine list included an old favorite, Steel Stymie. It’s a merlot that drinks a little more like a zin and is not offered by the glass so I had to order a bottle. No worries, with the new liquor laws in Georgia, one can recork a bottle and take it home, in the trunk of course. I was thinking this might happen since I had already had a bottle of Lambrusco earlier in the day, then a couple of beers. Our fabulous server Paul patiently brought out several tastes of other selections for us.

For entrees (yes, we ate all this and then entrees and desserts too!), B ordered the grilled ribeye, medium rare, with jumbo lump crabmeat and roasted brussels sprouts. If you are a regular reader you know by now that we both love brussels sprouts! Although B said the steak was cooked beyond medium rare (it was), the flavor was still delicious, the pairing of crab and brussels complementing the beefiness. And it was enormous.

I went for the crispy pork belly, served with polenta and organic baby turnips. Reminiscent of duck skin with the fat beneath its crisp surface, the savory pork skin concealed the juicy and rich meat. The theme of the evening: fat. But don’t let my appetite for it deter you….one can eat light at The Shed too. Diver scallop ceviche, roasted beet salad, chicken salad stuffed banana peppers to start or the chicken breast with local okra and stewed tomatoes. Speaking of tomatoes, they showed up on my pork dish. Not that I don’t like tomatoes, I do. Love them in fact. But not with meat, especially fish. So my polenta was flavored with tomatoes, overpowering my baby turnips. I was hoping the turnips would be braised or browned, maybe with some Vidalia for sweetness. I always like a touch of sweetness with pork.

The lack of sweet accompaniment with my meat was well compensated for by way of a trio of desserts. Four little chocolate peanut butter bars, and a fluffy homemade ding-dong couldn’t compete against the warm cream cheese brownie with homemade vanilla ice cream….we couldn’t stop eating it!

The Shed at Glenwood 475 Bill Kennedy Way www.theshedatglenwood.com 404-835-4363

Yay! Great news from Jill at The Reynold’s Group. We can only hope a few of Cuerno’s best dishes sneak into the menu here!

Seasoned Atlanta Restaurateur Brings Authentic Taqueria to Midtown

Riccardo Ullio’s Newest Restaurant to Serve Traditional Mexican Flavors at Lupe

ATLANTA (October 15, 2009) – On Tuesday, Oct. 20, Atlanta restaurateur Riccardo Ullio will introduce Atlantans to Lupe, an authentic Mexican taqueria, in the Midtown space formerly home to Cuerno. Named after the Virgin of Guadalupe, an iconic symbol of Mexico, Lupe will serve a dynamic dinner menu that captures the bold and customary tastes, ingredients and dishes of Mexico. The restaurant is the latest addition to Ullio’s popular U Restaurants, which include Sotto Sotto, Fritti and Beleza.

“Our head chef, a native of Mexico, has created Lupe’s menu true to his kind of Mexican food,” said Ullio. “We want our guests to experience a different approach to Mexican cuisine in Atlanta. Lupe will give you passion in each dish, power behind every flavor, and a laidback but vibrant atmosphere.”

The Chef

Lupe’s kitchen will be led by Executive Chef Darvelio Palma, the former chef de cuisine at Sotto Sotto, and his sister Maria Palma. The siblings are natives of Acapulco, a large city on the Pacific coast of Mexico with a rich culture and deep Spanish Colonial history. Calling upon their roots, they will create traditional Mexican dishes and authentic flavors for a casual yet enticing menu. Darvelio Palma’s culinary training in Mexico ignited his passion for cooking and will be the foundation of the philosophy behind Lupe’s menu. Palma will focus on using the best, fresh ingredients available to present consistent and perfect dishes from Lupe’s kitchen.

The Cuisine

An inexpensive addition to the Midtown restaurant scene, Lupe will offer casual taqueria fare, including quesadillas, salads, tacos and traditional dishes. With entrees ranging from $12 to $15, the menu will feature several taco plate options including the rare specialties of tongue and kid goat tacos. The traditional plates will incorporate elements of spice and comfort, from Pollo en Mole (chicken mole) and Costillas con Frijoles Negros (braised beef short ribs with black beans and rice) to whole roasted snapper and sopes topped with frijoles negro, roasted chile salsa and crema Mexicana. The appetizer selections will highlight Mexican favorites, packing a punch with lobster and red snapper ceviche, Queso Fundido con Chorizo (queso with chorizo sausage), and three variations of guacamole.

The Drinks

Lupe’s cocktails menu will emphasize the tradition behind the food, from the ample tequila list to classic mescal drinks. Sangre y Arena, which translates into Blood and Sand, is a mix of Scorpion reposado mescal, Cherry Herring, Punt e Mes sweet vermouth and orange juice with a dash Maraschino liqueur. The signature Lupe Margarita combines simple ingredients with Sauza Commemorativa tequila, and the Rosita cocktail blends silver tequila, sweet and dry vermouth and Campari for its distinctive red color. Lindy Colburn, the original bar chef at Ullio’s cocktail lounge Beleza, is consulting with U Restaurant’s Beverage Manager Eric Zollicoffer to develop the full cocktail list. A 20-year veteran of the restaurant industry, Zollicoffer has worked at U Restaurants and led the bar at Sotto Sotto for over a decade.

About Lupe

Lupe is a Mexican taqueria from Chef/Owner Riccardo Ullio of U Restaurants that will serve classic flavors and traditional dishes from a kitchen led by Acapulco-born siblings Darvelio Palma and Maria Palma. Located in Midtown at 905 Juniper Street NE, Atlanta, Ga., 30309, Lupe will be open for dinner and cocktails Tuesday through Thursday from 6:30 p.m. to midnight and Friday and Saturday from 6:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Each Thursday evening, the restaurant will host Rumba y Sabor live salsa dancing events. Valet parking is available at the front door. For more information, visit www.urestaurants.net or call 678.904.4584.

Hot off the presses from Molly at Mary Reynolds:

Atlanta Restaurant Veterans to Open Whimsical French-Influenced Bistro Amuse! in Midtown

Arnaud Michel and Andy Alibaksh’s latest restaurant to open October 19, 2009

ATLANTA (October 13, 2009) – Serving a menu of French-influenced cuisine, Amuse! will open Monday, October 19, 2009 in the ground floor of the Belvedere building in Midtown Atlanta. Atlanta restaurant veterans Arnaud Michel of Anis and Andy Alibaksh of the Café Diem family, which includes Après Diem, Carpe Diem, Carroll St. Café and Village Pizza, join together to treat Atlantans to a whimsically international dining experience for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Established Atlanta Chef Lenny Robinson will lead the kitchen in creating dishes that showcase his global culinary background.

“At Amuse!, we want guests to enjoy an approachable menu, from small plates to salads to entrées, in a welcoming and modern bohemian atmosphere,” said Michel. “We are confident and excited that bustling Midtown will embrace our new concept that offers a comfortable dining destination with international flair.”

The Chef

With a Japanese family background and a devotion to international flavors, Executive Chef Lenny Robinson helms the kitchen at Amuse! Prior to opening Amuse, Robinson served as executive chef at The Tasting Room Restaurant and Wine Bar in Sandy Springs, Ga., executive chef and owner of Downtown Atlanta’s Les Fleur De Lis Café and executive chef of Buckhead neighborhood gem Anis Café and Bistro. While at Anis, Robinson worked with Owner Arnaud Michel, with whom he has reunited at Amuse! During his tenure in Atlanta, Robinson and his restaurants have been recognized in Bon Appetit and AirTran’s GO Magazine. He received the American Culinary Foundation’s Certified Working Chef distinction in 1987 after attending the Denver Institute of Art where he earned an associate’s degree in culinary arts. His unique culinary style of blending various cultural influences is a result of his international background. He grew up learning Asian style cooking with his Japanese mother and also spent time with his family living in Spain and studying Spanish culture and food.

The Cuisine

Lunch, dinner and weekend brunch at Amuse! will feature a variety of approachable yet unique dishes that entice both the palate and imagination, embrace the freshest flavors of the season and reflect Chef Robinson’s culinary experiences. Using the highest-quality ingredients, many of which come from Georgia’s own local meat, dairy and produce farmers, Robinson invites diners to savor the eclectic tastes in his dishes, all of which are made in-house including pasta and ice cream. Asian inflections are seen in his preparation of Crispy Ginger Squid with lime, shisho and chile aioli and Orange Glazed Pork with apple slaw and cherry mostarda on ciabatta, while the essence of the Mediterranean is seen in Ricotta and Lemon Gnocchi with smoked tomato, basil and pecorino and Crispy Spanish Mackerel with chickpeas, mint, sultanas and eau de tomate. Extending a unique Southern welcome, Robinson’s twists on classic staples include “Mac and Cheese” of gemelli pasta, three cheeses, local bacon and truffle, Organic Chicken and Dumplings and Pan Fried Carolina Bass with crispy potato, arugula and lemon roe aioli. With a changing soup and risotto of the day, diners can experience the flavorful whims of Robinson’s culinary creations.

Fostering community at the table, Robinson’s selections of sides, including Pickled Brussels Sprouts, Roasted Cauliflower with almond milk and garlic and Braised Greens are served to be shared. For a relaxing weekend brunch, diners will savor Catalan Baked Eggs with Spanish chorizo, spicy greens and potato, Sweet Georgia Shrimp and Grits, Local Fried Chicken with English cheddar waffle and apple butter and Duck Liver Mousse with orange oil and marjoram jam. Guests looking to end their meal on a sweet note can indulge in desserts such as Chocolate Ganache Torte with espresso mousse and sour cherry gelato, Meyer Lemon Tart with lavender sorbet and candied flowers and Saffron Crème Caramel with wood roasted pears and licorice syrup. Complementing the menu’s fresh and innovative flavors, Mixologist Ralph Drake creates handcrafted cocktails to please any palate.

Serving up love in the Old 4th Ward! The restaurant is hard to find, in what is still a relatively sketchy neighborhood, but I always leave happy that I came.

Each of my visits have been solo for lunch. It was probably Cliff Bostock’s rave reviews that peaked my interest in visiting a vegetarian restaurant because I am certainly a carnivore. But it sounded as though the chef/owner David Sweeney was a daring entrepreneur who’s reinterpretation of vegetarian dishes was vibrant and creative.

His dishes are made with meticulous precision. You will never find limp greens in your salad or less than perfectly ripe pears, apples, or flavorless tomatoes….locally sourced, impecably prepared. The prices reflect this diligence, but as is so often the case, you get what you pay for.

Last Friday found me in the neighborhood so I stopped in. I particularly love the space on a sunny day given the entire front is windows. It feels so fresh, clean, healthy. Every table was occupied by two diners but it is commonplace to share here, so I sat with a couple of guys that said ‘fuck’ even more often than I do (if that’s possible).

Never knowing what will be on the menu I was thrilled to see Sweeney using every Fall ingredient I love, making my decision a difficult one. I could not pass up the sweet potato soup with chestnut, coconut, and cinnamon raisin croutons. Brought out by my favorite server (Stephen?) with a piece of fresh bread from Magnolia Bakery, unfortunately with caraway seeds, but I still nibbled on it anyway. I was hoping the soup would have a bit more sweetness, especially with the addition of coconut, but it was the cinnamon raisin croutons that really made it for me.

Along with the soup I had half a salad of radicchio, frisee, escarole, Gala apple, sunflower seeds, spring onion, and feta. In hind sight I would have just had a whole salad, it was fabulous! Different than other salads I’ve had at Dynamic, this one was almost a chopped salad, every component perfectly intregrated and balanced.

My first meal here was a salad of arugula, pear, and candied pecans topped with a mini round of warm Bucheron. That was probably over a year ago and I still remember it! Damn, it was good. I really need to get my ass over there for pizza night on Saturdays….I hear reservations are necessary, keep in mind the space is quite small.

Due to the seasonality of the menu, it changes daily to include what’s at market. Sweeney’s background in catering healthy meals in Germany translates here into a concise blackboard menu of a salad (sometimes two), a sandwich, a bowl or plate of vegetables, a soup, whatever works best with the ingredients at hand. There are some sweets like dark chocolate, almond stuffed dates for a dollar and a small selection of organic cookies, some wheat-free options, coffees, and teas.

So go……you’ll feel good inside and out!

427 Edgewood Avenue Closed Sundays & Mondays 404-688-4344 www.dynamicdish.net

Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s have new competition as SAVI Urban Market opens in the trendy new section of Inman Park on Elizabeth Street (think Fritti and you’re there). I stopped in Wednesday night meeting Maureen Hathaway, one of three partners, busily stocking shelves in preparation for the imminent opening.

The brainchild of local entrepreneur Paul Nair, he also enlisted the help of Paul Rodgers, a nationally recognized Wellness Consultant with extensive knowledge of natural foods. The three partners wanted to create an affordable neighborhood market where shoppers could drop in to pick up essentials as well as specialty items. I had the opportunity to chat with Rodgers as well who elaborated “we are not an expensive gourmet market, you’ll see traditional products alongside organic ones.”

Rodgers is especially excited about the enomatic machine that is in transit and will be centrally located near the shelves of wines, most of them priced at $15 or less. The machine will allow customers to taste wines before purchasing them for a small fee….how cool is that?

Their motto is The Butcher, the Baker and the Wine Maker, but the market will also feature locally grown and organic produce, and organic dairy products like the artisan crafted Atlanta Fresh Greek Yogurt made in Norcross. You’ll also find imported crostini from Italy, an impressive selection of gluten-free products, and organic pet foods.

The space is warm and inviting, painted in shades of umber and deep yellows with white tile backing the deli area. Lacquered concrete floors add an industrial touch.

Stores hours are 6am to midnight seven days a week. Ample parking in the back allows one to dash in and pick up prepared meals for individuals or families…great for busy moms and business people alike.

I’m certain as the store gets feedback from shoppers it will evolve and satisfy this neighborhood’s love of originality, quality, and affordability.
I’ll be visiting soon to sample a mini-panini and some other goodies and will re-post with interior photos and more food info. The aroma of freshly baked ciabatta is beckoning already!

After yet another visit, this time with a semi-rowdy group of friends actually seated in the dining room, I had to bump my neighborhood Tex-Mex fave El Taco and seedy yet surprisingly healthy Tex-Mex fave El Myr to give Abattoir a spot. Neither seriously deserved spots in the Top Ten, but I so love Mexican food, I just wanted it represented. (lame, right?)

We snacked on chicharrones and the lovely, fatty rabbit rillette (photo above). Crispy bread with real sweet butter and a bottle or two of a deep and spicy malbec (only $36!) set the stage for a hearty meal.

This time I tried the duck breast with cabbage and pear slaw. Served sliced thin and medium rare, the side didn’t have enough sweet to adequately compliment the meat. One friend had the tender and tasty short ribs with sweet potatoes. The rest is all a meaty blur, although no one had anything offal. (did I mention my friends are pussies?)

But it was the dessert that really did it for me. The new hazelnut meringue with coffee ice cream and chocolate sauce stole the show, all of us digging in with spoons clanking against the huge bowl….I can only imagine the scene as a bit frightening for on-lookers! It was chewy, creamy, light, and rich all at once. We also ordered the not-so-special chocolate creme cookie with ice milk and the always amazing maple bacon beignets.

Named for former Atlanta mayor Livingston Mims (OK, I’m not a history buff but I never heard of this guy, however, he sounds like he was a partier back in his day!), this place has everything going for it. Located at the gorgeously restored Georgian Terrace, the setting is subdued elegance. With a view of the Fox Theater and the busy corner of Peachtree and Ponce, it is the quintessential landmark dining experience.

The chef is Gary Mennie who spent ten years at Canoe then opened Taurus to much initial success. But Atlanta sprouts new, hot restaurants seemingly every week, even in this economy, so it’s hard to sustain the hotness. He gave it quite a go!

The Georgian Terrace hosted Harvest Midtown on Sunday, the annual food and wine fair sponsored by Barrelman, the wine store connected to Eno. So, naturally Eli Kirshtein, Eno chef and current Top Chef contestant, was there, as was Hector Santiago from Pura Vida, who Padma already asked to “pack his knives and go”. I gushed to him briefly about his duck maduros and my love affair with his establishment. Keep in mind this was after 3 hours of wine tasting (and no, for $45 I do not spit it out for God’s sake!)

B was my companion for Harvest Midtown. We have found ourselves at Livingston on many occasions, drinking, dining, requesting the to-die-for short rib ravioli at midnight! (John, the manager, made it happen). Yes, we are regulars. We ran into chef Mennie’s awesome sous chef Zeb Stevenson repeatedly, finally introducing us to Mennie as we sipped our last glasses of wine on the terrace.

The menu here focuses on local produce and proteins, the trend du jour, although one surely can’t complain about farm fresh veggies and supporting local farmers. My family had a small farm every summer and I picked okra, squash, corn. Me and my Mom canned green beans. Vegetables had flavor, and that’s what you’ll find at places like Livingston and Abattoir.

The short rib ravioli appetizer here is delectable. Filled with savory meat the ravioli rest in a bit of broth with sweet notes from acacia honey and a hint of horseradish, creating the perfect balance and making this dish one of my favorites in town. (The most amazing thing about this post is that I don’t have a photo of the ravioli….ridiculous!) Duck croquettes are tasty as well, set upon dollops of pureed sweet potato.

On one visit we split the rabbit and a side of brussels sprouts served in the cutest little individual saucepan. Both of us already had some prosecco and a couple of glasses of A to Z pinot noir so I can’t recall the exact preparation of the rabbit but I do remember we enjoyed it. B has had the veal with cauliflower gratin, I have tried the pork with Vidalia tart and peach mustarda which was short on delivering the sweet/savory combination that I craved. Didn’t care for the chopped salad that everyone raves about or the lemony grits. Another salad with arugula and pecorino was simple and satisfying.

The desserts have been quite good, however, the best came at Harvest Midtown where we met the adorable pastry chef Derrick. His apple crumble was the best bite of the show and will hopefully be on the Fall menu!

Zeb promised a seared foie gras on the new Fall menu as well….you know I’ll be back for that!