Hot Dish Review

It’s been a long time since Buckhead LIfe has launched a new concept. This French Bistro is it! Despite their hugeness, I think they do a great job, especially at Bluepointe and Nava, so I’ll be excited to visit Bistro Niko when it opens! News release below:

Bistro Niko – Notre Histoire (“Our Story”)

In every day French life, the Bistro is woven into the daily pattern of meals and celebrations – a kind of home away from home for each guest, striking the balance between sophistication and comfort. Bistro Niko is a true neighborhood restaurant where we welcome you warmly and serve satisfying foods that change with the seasons and define regional French cuisine. It is a casual place to enjoy the company of friends and family and relish one of the richest culinary heritages in the world. Adhering to traditional standards of simplicity, hospitality, and elegance that are universally appealing, we strive to make Bistro Niko a place where Atlantans can feel at ease.

Every detail of Bistro Niko has been considered carefully and thoughtfully from décor to menu to philosophy. Our team has researched authentic French bistros in and around Paris including Aux Lyonaise, L’ami Jean, Benoit, La Comptoir, L’Ourcine, Les Bouquinistes, Chez Michel and Cafe Constant, to bring you the most authentic flavors from the heart of France. Guests will feel welcomed during every moment of their experience with the warm and whimsical ceiling in the main dining room to the murals in the restrooms featuring vintage posters; no element has been left to chance.

Make plans to visit Bistro Niko after we open in early November. Bistro Niko is located in the gorgeous Sovereign Building at 3344 Peachtree Road in Buckhead – look for the red awning! For exciting updates and construction photos prior to opening, please visit our website at www.buckheadrestaurants.com. We look forward to serving you soon!

A great cause! Info provided by Melissa Libby & Associates:

WOODFIRE GRILL HOSTS WINE DINNER TO BENEFIT LOVE IS LOVE FARM

Farm-to-Table Restaurant Creates October 11 Fundraiser to Repair Local Farm’s Flood Damage

ATLANTA (September 29, 2009) – Woodfire Grill, Atlanta’s favorite farm-to-table restaurant, is hosting a fundraiser for Love is Love Farm on Sunday, October 11, to help the beloved local farm recover from the flash floods that occurred early last week. Love is Love sustained severe flood damage from the heavy rains in the Atlanta-area and must now rebuild their entire establishment, which is located in Douglasville, Georgia. The fundraising event will feature a cocktail reception at 6 p.m. followed by a seated dinner at 6:30 p.m. that includes a four-course menu with wine pairings for $100 per person. All proceeds from the event will benefit Love is Love Farm.

“We are strong supporters of Love is Love Farm’s mission to provide local, organic products and we get a large portion of our produce from their farm, so it is our goal to raise $10,000 to help get them up and running again,” says Woodfire Grill Co-Owner Bernard Moussa.

As The New York Times reported on September 23, Love is Love Farm Operator Joe Reynolds said the flood “could have a crippling toll on his small-scale farm.” His irrigation system was destroyed and two-thirds of his land was submerged, leaving his fall harvest deep under water. The farm is now looking at repair costs of $8,000.

Woodfire Grill is no stranger to supporting Love is Love Farm. Just prior to the flooding, the restaurant’s Executive Chef/Co-Owner Kevin Gillespie participated in the “Outstanding in the Field” farm dinner as a guest chef at Love is Love on Saturday, September 19. This event brings together local farmers, chefs and winemakers to feast on gifts of the land and explore the connection between the earth and the food on our plates.

Gillespie will also create the special menu for the fundraiser, and wines to complement his cuisine will be chosen by the restaurant’s Co-Owner Nicolas Quinones, who also serves as the Woodfire Grill’s wine director. During the event, guests will also have the opportunity to donate additional funds directly to Love is Love Farm to help with the reconstruction process. Reservations for the fundraiser are required, and guests must call 404-347-9566 to reserve a spot.

Operated by Joe Reynolds and Judith Winfrey, Love is Love Farm focuses on heirloom and endangered vegetable varieties, and employs soil-based agricultural practices, such as continuous crop-rotation, cover cropping and labor-intensive hand weeding to cultivate the best and healthiest vegetables. All fertility and soil amendments are composed of natural sources. Reynolds and Winfrey believe that a direct relationship with customers and transparent growing practices are the most assured ways to preserve the safety of our food supply and protect our community as well as the environment. Love is Love Farm is located at 3260 Highway 166 in Douglasville, Georgia. For more information, call 678-485-4941 or visit www.loveislovefarm.com.

Woodfire Grill is located at 1782 Cheshire Bridge Road and serves dinner Tuesday through Saturday. For more information or to make reservations, call 404-347-9055 or visit www.woodfiregrill.com.

First of all, my feelings about eating inferior sushi are about the same as drinking an O’Douls (alcohol free) beer….why bother? Diners that like the sushi at Ra probably think Trader Joe’s wine is pretty good too. Sad.

MF Buckhead is truly the only sushi in Atlanta worth eating. Check out my interview with Chris Kinjo in Atlanta’s Finest Dining last year. After dining there, all other sushi pales in comparison. So, I was not too excited to go to Ra last night, but it was with my friend AD and a fun group of girls and I thought I would give it a try.

Having read Cliff Bostock’s review in Creative Loafing recently, I already had a preconceived notion that it would probably suck. Oh, and it’s a chain. Even less impressive.

Taking advantage of an evening without rain, our group of 8 sat on the large patio. We started with edamame and I ordered a cold nigori sake from their extensive list. So far, so good. But Ra is more about fun than food. The atmosphere is festive, the location is close to midtown’s clubs and bars, so the crowd was young and trendy. I saw a lot of familiar faces.

Some of the girls ordered salads, others tried rolls. There are plenty of creative, Americanized sushi-esque appetizers and entrees. AD ordered the Tunacado which we thought was a roll but was simply thin sliced sub-par tuna and avocado with a creamy ponzu dipping sauce. The website claims the fish is flown in fresh daily….really? Ironically, I did not order anything raw at Ra but rather opted for smoked salmon and unagi (eel) nigiri. Both passable. I also tried the pork potstickers. The frozen ones at Whole Foods are better.

Service was a little off but, again, passable. The girls seemed to enjoy their food. Perhaps they are not sushi snobs like me, and that’s OK. The menu is extensive and this was just one visit but chances are the next time I crave sushi I will be ordering the amazing melt-in-your-mouth kampachi and the kickass duck or seabass from the robata grill at MF Buckhead.

the view through beer goggles

A new spot has opened in the old Bazaar location next to The Fox. It's called Publik, not to be confused with pubic, although the attractive male staff is a bit on the randy side. And certainly not to be confused with Publix. These boys are not bagging your groceries (although they may help carry you to your car).

Modern and simple it's a refreshing replacement and welcome addition to the midtown cocktail scene. The drinks prices are incredibily low, in fact, Publik's tagline is Where the Beer is Cheaper than Water. The website, www.publikatl.com, is only a home page so far, but promises food and fun in addition to the spirits!

NEWS DIRECTLY FROM CONCENTRICS’ PR QUEEN HANNAH:

ONE.midtown kitchen and Murphy’s Receive New Executive Chefs

Concentrics Restaurants Refreshes Two Popular Concepts

Atlanta, GA (September 21, 2009)—Both ONE.midtown kitchen and Murphy’s, two consistently popular Atlanta concepts, are receiving refreshing menu changes with new Executive Chefs. Acclaimed chef Drew Van Leuvan brings 16 years of experience to ONE.midtown kitchen and plans to overhaul the current menu in its entirety. Executive Chef Tom Harvey, formerly of ONE.midtown kitchen, will be running the kitchen at Murphy’s and will update the classic balance of favorites and creative dishes alike. Both changes go into affect the week of September 28, 2009.

Executive Chef Drew Van Leuvan Moves to ONE.midtown kitchen

Connecticut native and Atlanta local Drew VanLeuvan brings strong experience to ONE.midtown kitchen, a Concentrics concept that lead the restaurant resurgence to Midtown and helped elevate the Atlanta culinary scene to national recognition. Chef Van Leuvan plans to update ONE’s menu with dishes that are “fresh, light and composed”. The cuisine will be Italian and Mediterranean bistro inspired with the same comfort food profiles ONE’s current customer is used to. Wood oven pizzas will rotate daily and will include 12 inch options such as Arugula with Lemon Ricotta. Whole roasted fishes, a Farmer’s Market Plate, Daily Roasts, housemade pastas, 28 day Dry Aged Steaks and a Porchetta are a snapshot of the menu’s direction. Van Leuvan is especially excited about his housemade salumi program. It was developed ten months ago and breaks down whole pieces of meat into simple salumis. These offerings will be a big part of the menu and will be used throughout. Van Leuvan is also incorporating a lounge/bar menu of finger foods that offer fun twists on favorites.

Chef VanLeuvan perfected his skills while apprenticing under some of the world’s best Chefs including Jean Louis Palladin, Goettel Seeger, Wylie Dufresne, Joel Antunes, Sam Mason and Chef Mark Dommen. In 2004 Chef VanLeuvan served as Executive Chef at Atlanta’s acclaimed Toast Restaurant where he was recognized as a “Chef on the Rise” by Food and Wine Magazine. Following his stint at Toast, Van Leuvan became executive chef at Spice Restaurant where he received 3 stars from both the Atlanta Journal Constitution and Creative Loafing. In 2006, Chef VanLeuvan was appointed Executive Chef of Saga Restaurant where he was given the “Rising Star Award” by StarChefs.com and “most memorable plate of 2007” by Creative Loafing.

Executive Chef Tom Harvey Moves to Murphy’s

Talented chef Tom Harvey brings his stand-out culinary skills for food that is both serious and simple, interesting and affordable to Virginia Highland’s favorite restaurant, Murphy’s.

“I have always admired Murphy’s balance of classic favorites and creative menu items and specials served in one of the most beautiful dining rooms in the city, and it is a formula that keeps this Atlanta landmark more popular than ever. We plan to keep the execution of the Murphy’s standards sharper than ever, while giving our guests plenty to be excited about with new menu items and daily specials which begin with the best seasonal produce. Going into the cooler months, soups and stews will be a special focus, along with roasted and braised meats and fish.”—Chef Tom Harvey

Chef Harvey most recently served as executive chef at ONE.midtown kitchen, where he garnered numerous awards and accolades. Chef Harvey has honed his culinary chops at acclaimed venues such as the famed Cloister Hotel on Sea Island, Georgia, Woodlands Resort and Inn outside Charleston, Blackberry Farm, a world-renowned hotel property in the Great Smoky Mountains of Tennessee and Nava in Buckhead. Chef Tom has been featured on Fox 5’s Good Day Atlanta, and The Weather Channel’s Cooking Up a Storm, among other local and national television and print features.

Open almost a year now, Richard Blais’ burger boutique on Howell Mill is still abuzz with energy. I met AD there for lunch with her beau BH and we had to wait for a table even on this soggy Saturday. Top Chef finalist Blais is best known for his creative kitchen chemistry, using liquid nitrogen to quick-freeze ingredients for dramatic effect….fun!

The burgers at Flip represent a variety of unorthodox combinations, from chorizo with manchego to a country fried beef patty with pimento cheese. There’s a tartare and a tuna, all served on little buns with housemade condiments. Or you can order any burger served on a lettuce wrap. I had not noticed that option on previous visits and decided to give it a try.

I have never sat at a table at Flip and today was no exception, the three of us sitting on the cushy white stools at the bar. The space has a retro appeal decked out in white vinyl and laminate with touches of red.

AD tried the turkey burger with a side of tempura battered butternut squash fries. BH went with the po boyger, a patty made of shrimp and served with shredded lettuce, Old Bay mayo and tabasco. He ordered onion rings on the side. I’ve had the turkey burger before, topped with cheese, avocado, sprouts, and pomegranite ketchup….it’s pretty tasty. They were both quite pleased.

There has been a definite improvement on the fried sides…..much less greasy than before. Butternut squash fries were good, sprinkled with spices, and the onion rings were excellent.

My crab burger failed to thrill me, however. Topped with green curry sauce, pickled apple, and micro greens, it sounded more flavorful than it was. On the guilt-free lettuce wrap it didn’t seem worth its $14 price tag, yet is a bargain compared to the kobe burger with seared foie gras at $39.

Of all the burgers I’ve sampled at Flip, my favorite is the lamb burger with cheese, green olive relish, cucumber yogurt, and raisin ketchup. Although each burger is a miniscule 5.5 ounces, they are pattied thick and the smooth toasted buns hold up well.

We didn’t indulge in a shake on this visit, but I’ve had the Nutella and burnt marshmallow which is a yummy textural treat. And, of course, how could I not try the foie gras milkshake? Made famous (or infamous?) at the chef’s short-lived restaurant, Blais, in 2005, it has been resurected at Flip. A liver milkshake you say? Sounds f#*cking disgusting indeed, but I must admit I loved it. It’s sorta like vanilla with chunks of fat in it. Still sounds disgusting. Try it.

Exciting news from the PR Goddesses at Mary Reynolds:

Chef Acheson to launch contemporary meat ‘n’ three in Midtown’s 999 Peachtree

Atlanta, GA – September 16, 2009 – Real estate investment firm Jamestown proudly announces today that they have executed a lease with award-winning Chef Hugh Acheson to launch his first Atlanta restaurant at 999 Peachtree in spring 2010. The new venture, called Empire State So. will be a contemporary and casual meat ‘n’ three restaurant offering breakfast, lunch and dinner.

A finalist for this year’s James Beard Foundation’s Best Chefs in the Southeast award and named a Food & Wine Best New Chef in 2002, Acheson, who owns acclaimed Athens, Ga., restaurants Five & Ten and The National, was an early proponent of fresh, local and responsible cuisine and is known for his support of such groups as Georgia Organics, Georgia Rivers Network and the Southern Foodways Alliance.

“Empire State So. will be a community restaurant focused on southern staples. It will make you crave okra, smothered pork chops, and collard greens. We want it to be a place where you’ll find yourself having a drink on Sunday, a coffee on Monday, lunch on Tuesday, a to-go sandwich on Thursday and dinner on Friday.”

Under Chef Acheson’s direction, Empire State So. will offer guests the opportunity to dine al fresco with a two-sided indoor/outdoor bar. Cultivating an inviting community atmosphere, Empire State So. also will feature an herb garden and bocce ball court. Parking will be convenient for guests with 50 complimentary parking spaces and a valet service. Located at 999 Peachtree, the dining space will feature 90 seats, including 24 seats at the bar. Breakfast and lunch will be served weekdays, dinner will be served Monday through Saturday and brunch will be served on Saturday and Sunday.

The construction at The Prado in Sandy Springs is finally (almost) complete, with it an assortment of new eateries. There seems to be a definitive slant towards healthy lunch options with casual spots like Evos, Yoreka, and Fuego Mundo. Next door there is a sign for Genki “coming soon”.

My colleague MC and I paid a visit to Fuego Mundo on Monday. Owner Masha Hleap-Hershkovitz was on hand to explain the concept….wood-fire grilled South American fare including tapas, skewers, salads, and tasty sides. The restaurant is vegan friendly, preparing veggies and tofu dishes separately from meats.

Entrees of marinated steak, chicken, or fish are paired with sides like black beans and rice or quinoa and plantains. There were two soups on the day of our visit and Masha brought us a taste of each….sweet plantain and vegetable with yucca. Flavored with cilantro, the veggie soup was my favorite dish of the meal.

The baked beef empanada and the yucca fries were not too exciting although MC really liked the creamy dipping sauce that came with the fries. Chimichurri marinated steak skewers, however, were seriously flavorful, the tender steak chunks cooked perfectly medium rare. The accompanying black beans, quinoa, and baked plantains were a bit bland. Honestly, everything but the steak and soup could have used more punch and spice. Sure, some Americans are pussies when it comes to spice but many of us travel and come from multi-cultural backgrounds. We want authentic!

For dessert Masha surprised us with a coconut sorbet. Very sweet but at a mere 100 calories and dairy-free, still a light ending to what felt like a guilt-free lunch.

Fuego Mundo 5590 Roswell Rd. #A-120 404-256-4330

Saturday night B and I dined at Abattoir. I was interested to hear what chef and partner Josh Hopkins thought of my interview with him and the article on the restaurant that just came out in the current Atlanta’s Finest Dining. And of course, we were craving some freshly butchered meat. (Abattoir means slaughterhouse in French, by the way.)

Waiting for B at the bar, I ordered my usual Karl Erbes riesling poured by the gorgeous bartender with the mesmerizing eyes. We decided to make ourselves at home there rather than at a table, as we often prefer. It’s just more interactive! I had a chance to meet Rick, the restaurant’s manager, who was a gracious host.

The space is like a modern barn, with rough unpolished wood, light gray banquettes, and high ceilings. Lighting is warm and cozy and makes everyone look gorgeous.

I think it’s worth mentioning that, unlike many food writers, I don’t see the problem in writing a review based on one visit, even if it’s a media dinner. Good is good. And bad is, well, not so good. My opinion and impressions generally remain consistent if I visit once or ten times. And really, it’s just not that serious folks.

So, on this, my second visit to Abattoir, I was excited to try something new. I had eaten my way through half the menu at the media dinner a couple of months ago, loving the rabbit rillette, the chicharrones, and the lamb liver fritters. I started with a salad of roasted figs, gorgonzola, and bacon, the heady flavors tempered by fresh greens. Divine.

Our bartender, now our server, delivered a lovely crisp baguette with butter as I switched to a glass of the smooth cab B was drinking. She chose a couple of cheeses, one of which was my standby, the Humboldt Fog, served with Marcona almonds. Cheese service at all of Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison’s restaurants is always stellar.

One of my colleagues said the quail was awesome so that’s what I ordered. Stuffed with sausage and served with a succotash of cabbage and bacon, it was true comfort food. B chose the slow cooked rabbit (I referred to it as a wascal-y wabbit) as her main, with stewed okra and tomatoes. As we noshed on bread, cheese and wine B struck up a conversation with J, a fellow diner at the bar. We ended up sampling his lamb which he described as rich and somewhat gamey. No problem, we like gamey. My horoscope said I would meet some interesting people tonight.

There was bacon in my salad, bacon in my entree, so why not bacon in the dessert? Abattoir’s maple bacon beignets are already nearly famous. Doughnuts drizzled with syrup, they are as good as they look.

The restaurant was busy throughout the evening but as the crowds waned, chef Hopkins came out to say hello….how nice!

Despite being known for offal, none was ingested on this visit.

AD is back in town! We finally had the chance to get together and headed to Zaya on North Highland for a Mediterranean smorgasbord. I was particularly excited to try their babaganoush (they spell it Baba Ghanuj). The trick is to achieve a heady degree of smokiness from the eggplant. Zaya’s dip was almost perfect, smoky and texturally pleasing, with a pool of olive oil and diced tomatoes, served with the ubiquitous pita triangles. I bet their hummus is great too.

We also tried the Lahem-Bi-Ajeen, a pita pizza with spicy ground beef and lamb topped with onion, tomato, and drizzled with pomegranite molasses…..tasty!

Spanikopita, phyllo triangles filled with spinach and feta, were large, flaky, and delicious. The kafta kebabs, made with spiced ground lamb, were good but a little heavy on the bhar helou, a Lebanese spice mixture of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, and would have benefitted from a bit more cayenne. The table next to us grew increasingly annoyed, and perhaps even a little embarrassed, with our chatter….what, doesn’t everyone talk about blowjobs at dinner? Me and AD had some catching up to do, the topic somewhat influenced by the slightly phallic kebabs (see photo).

Zaya’s extensive menu features mostly traditional Greek and Lebanese dishes like mujadarah (lentil stew), falafel, shish kebab, chicken and beef shawarma, and stuffed kibbeh but strays occassionally to satisfy the less adventurous diner. Worth a second visit.